Had to rely on the pool place #'s and some left handed math to accomplish the SLAM while I waited for my test kit, but it worked. Pool is gin clear.

Taylor PH test - this seems so subjective using the square vile to measure PH. How are you guys getting readings in tenths? What am I missing?

Also still fuzzy on whether or not SWG causes spike in PH. Everything I've read up to last night seemed to support that, but ran across a recent thread where several forum big dogs said NO. ??

Shooting for FC 7, TC 7, PH 7.6, CYA 70, TA 70.
Using the Pool Calculator for dosing.
Also doing the overnight chlorine loss test tonight
Adding stabilizer via a sock in the skimmer tomorrow to bring CYA up to 70

Thoughts?

Hi Everyone, we bought a home with a pool last year and the plaster started coming off rapidly within 6 months and we had it redone recently.

I've not been totally happy with the contractor. they came highly recommended but took a long time to get the job done and has not offered much help after the pool was done. I was given instructions to brush and to add some chemicals but the other contractor offered 30 days of support to get the pool balanced. I assumed that was standard practice but seems to not be.

All told there's still time to see how this contractor will respond when I need more help over the coming weeks but this has been a difficult process.

I only had two choices, one newer local business only in business for less than 2 years, and a well established local company that's been well known. the newer company was far more organized and offered more post construction help and feel that I should have taken a chance on them instead

MOD note: Combined past threads with new thread.

Trying to decide on a color for cooldeck which they are starting tomorrow

We have extra light ivory travertine coping and I was hoping to match it so that it seems like all one surface (ideally would’ve done all travertine but money tree stopped blooming). The color options from the brochure aren’t close at all so I need to pick a paint color from SW and beiges are hard! Anybody done this with this ivory or extra light ivory travertine? Would love to see color and picture!

I often see recommendations for a vendor in Colorado for buying robots. Can someone pass that along, I can't find a thread with it.

Just fired up my new Mastertemp. Immediately throwing AGS error.

I checking the troubleshooting guide. At first was running the pump at 1200 rpm, bypass fully open. Error AGS.
Tried 1900 rpm. Error AGS.
Tried 2200 rpm. Error AGS.

Heater is wired for 220. It's connected to a 15 amp breaker along with the Intellicenter & SWG transformer.

We bought a house with an existing pool that has a pebble tec finish that is 17 years old. Now it is time to resurface the pool. The PB we have met with is quoting $12k for prep and resurfacing with Stone Scape mini pebble finish. The pool is a custom shape that is 30' long and 17' at the widest part narrowing down to 9' at the narrow end. Deepest is 6' and shallow end at steps is 4'. Also a raised spa that is 8' x 6'. I'm guessing on the high side we are 566 sq ft.

I'm struggling to determine if that is a good price w/o obtaining another quote including going back to Pebble Tec which I understand from research would cost more.

Any comments on others that have recently done a resurfacing and the related costs? I realize supplies are a lot higher cost wise than last year so hoping to hear from others that had recently projects completed.

Thanks

Hello, I am replacing a Jandy 1.5 fhpm1.5 pump with Calimar 3 HP pump. The Jandy pump has male threads with specific union for the pump. The calimar pump has female threads and I put 2" male joiner into the female threads but the Jandy union won't screw on because its still to big which doesn't make sense cause the PVC pipe is 2'. Any one have suggestions for a solution in which I could use the old jandy unions aside from me cutting the PVC off? The first pic is of the new Calimar Pump and second is old Jandy pump.

So my partner and I are retiling the waterline of our pool. As we chipped out the tile and grounded the thinset. It seems the “mortar bed/concrete” is in really good shape. Would we be able to acid wash it and then tile over it with thinset ? I have read online that a mortar bed is needed but it looks like the concrete underneath is still in great shape.

I tested my water this am TC high like top of the yellows in the test tube. FC only 2. I know i need to shock. But My kids swam yesterday. Now I'm freaking out about how high it was yesterday. My pH 7.2, alk higher like 110, cya 30. Are they going to get sick? I'm too anxious to own a pool. Just when I think I have it down I don't.

Hello,

It has been several years since I have had to post anything here. I have been having an issue for years that I have not been able to figure out. Since you do not clean the filter often it takes awhile until this reoccur. Leslies has never heard of it either. The issue does not happen every time but does happen often. It only happens after you clean the filter. If I get lucky and it did not pop off it will not pop off anymore until I take it apart again and then it is a 50/50 if it will stay on.

After I clean my filter and put it back together I turn the pool pump back on to get the filter full of water and flowing through the pipes. What is happening is once the filter fills it will sometimes pop the manifold off the standpipe which in return blows all the DE back in my pool. When this issue started a few years back I replaced the manifold and it did not fix the issue. I have replaced the o-ring on the standpipe a few times over the years and still no go. This baffles me as to why this is happening.

The only thing that I can think of is maybe when it is priming it is set to high. It has been set to 2500 (speed) for years. Just before writing this I had to take the top off the filter again, put the manifold back on the standpipe and this time I turned the prime down to 1250 (speed). I am not certain this is the cause or not as it does not happen every time.

I had to shock my pool several days ago due to an algae issue, it is not fully cured but I need to figure out the cause of this manifold issue.

When the filter has been cleaned I have always opened the valve at the top and kept it open until it starts shooting water out the spout. Then I will regulate it until all the air escapes. I always thought that is how I am supposed to do it. Maybe what could be happening as well is keeping it open during prime may be the issue. Could that cause the manifold to pop off once it starts shooting water out and I close the valve?

I really need someone's professional opinion as this is something I have not been able to figure out. And google has no mention of this happening to anyone else.

I attached a few pictures. One with what it looks like when the manifold pops off, one at the higher prime setting and lastly the lower prime setting I just did before posting this here.

Please help on this issue.

Thanks,

EricO

FloridaPoolNewbie said:

Dealing with very hot days and tons of rain here in Florida which is causing lower than normal FC. I’m worried about running my SWG at a higher value (currently 50 bumped up to 75) that may cause premature cell failure vs supplementing liquid as a band aid. The SWG is about 5 years old.

Click to expand...

Hey there, im in in the same boat as you also in florida!! I'm in PSL (between orlando and Palm beach) and am also struggling to keep my FC between 1-4ppm. I've been supplementing with liquid chlorine and am currently running my SWG at 85% for 9hrs of the day.

I also seem to be losing salt which i would assume is because of the heavy rain, ive been adding 1 40Lb bag of sale about every 45 days. How have your salt levels been?

We have a Swim Pro Voyager cartridge filter. We replaced the o-ring on the filter, as it was stretched, but we still have a leak at the lock ring. Hayward’s site lists the latches for the lock ring. Are they difficult to change? One of our clips has the lightened plastic strain look, so I’m thinking that may be the culprit. Has anyone else experienced this?

Hey all,

I spent some summers as the "pool boy" at my house growing up. Now as of recently I'm a pool owner again and refreshing my knowledge. Looking forward to learning here. Already ordered the TF-100.

Hello everyone,

I’m very new here and made the mistake of using phos-out and then further exacerbating things by adding floc to the pool. I’m staying away from the pool store water checks and their recommendations. I promise!

I have vacuumed 2 times to waste during this time but it never got crystal clear and have been adding 5ppm liquid chlorine to the pool for days as recommended until I received the kit. Nothing has been added to the pool in the last 9 hours. Last was the chlorine early this morning.

These are the results. Edit to add: test kit results (sorry)

FC-10
CC-.5
pH-7.9
TA-70
CH-275
CYA-120

I know that last number is not good and from everything I’m reading is probably because of the Frog Bacpacs we had been using.

Based on most of what I’m seeing on this site I need to dump water. My question is how much? 1/4 of the pool?

I have not really posted. I believe my signature is loaded but if not my pool is above ground, 8300 gal, EC40 de filter with a 1HP pump. Im now using liquid chlorine and have removed the frog system completely.

Thank you for any help you can provide!!

I did some quick testing but the intellichlor lights never started blinking in spillway mode no matter what setting I put on pool or spa in the chemistry menu. I'm not sure if it's because I needed to wait longer but I'd rather just get the answer from someone who knows.

Does anyone have a parts list for the Dolphin Nautilus Supreme? My google-fu failed me today.

I figured out what part broke that seized the center brush (the bearings on one side) but can’t find a part number to email Maytronics and ask. All they want is to start a RMA shipment online which is way overkill.

Unless shipping the entire robot back is only way to go?

B

Hi,
A couple of years ago, TFP had articles promoting the use of borax to control algae.

The content appears to be gone?

What changed on this topic?

Hi all, I did a lot of research, and I'm finding it tough to know if I will be putting the pool plumbing components in the right order.
Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I just installed a 9-ft. by 13-ft. by 4-ft.-deep semi-inground pool with a vinyl liner.

A waterproof plumbing pad will be about 10 to 15 ft. away in a nearby shed where the floor is about 3 ft. below the water level in the pool—so all of the plumbing is slightly below the level of the top of the pool water, but above the bottom of the pool.

There is one skimmer and one return inlet on one long side of the pool, and there is another return inlet on the other long side. I'm running about 15-20 feet of 2-in. PVC from the skimmer, and I was considering running a dedicated 1.5-in. line for each of the returns.

I'm trying to figure out the best layout for all the parts in the shed, and I'm thinking the following makes sense...but let me know:

• 2 inch line from skimmer coming out of the shed floor
• 2 inch ball valve
• pool pump (with unions on both ends)
• cartridge filter (with unions on both ends)
• 2 inch check valve
• zinc anode
• inline chlorinator
• (with unions on both ends; might replace with SWG eventually)
• Jandy style 3-port valve
• two 2 inch to 1.5 inch reducers
• two 1.5 inch lines, each directly to one of the return inlets

My main questions are:

1. Do I only need one check valve?
2. If so, do I have it in the right location?
3. If I need more than one check valve, where do they go?
4. Is it unnecessary to have a Jandy valve splitting the flow to the two return lines? (could I just have a ball valve before I split the plumbing...meaning will I never have a reason to adjust the flow between the return or turn one off and have the other on?)
5. Should I have any valve allowing me to drain the system? (if I don't need the Jandy valve for the returns, I could put the valve some where in the system to allow the extra port to be a drain.)

Thanks!
- Rob

(below is a very rough layout of just the plumbing pipes running between the pad and the pool)

I'm getting DE back in the pool. I have not yet inspected anything and wondering if it's more common to have a cracked manifold or torn grid in the filter, or an issue with the spider gasket in the multiport? It's my understanding that any of these issues can result in DE coming back into the pool.

Morning! I’ve so much appreciated this site as it has taught me to do my own pool balancing for first time in my pool life. Pool has been up 7 months here in phoenix and has been rock solid following all the TFP principles. I am leaving for 2 weeks and no pool company does temp service in my area and no friend that I could rely on to step in. My question is can I just put some pucks in the skimmer basket and make sure PH is on the lower side as I leave (as I add acid regularly here in AZ). Any advice would be appreciated

Hello all,

We just recently bought a house with a pool that we knew had some issues. We have had terrible luck in having pool "professionals" fix it (but end up making it worse).

We have a single speed that now leaks at the seals and we were contemplating replacing the pump with a intelliflow3 vs, however, the pool company told us that it is not compatible since we have an easy touch 4 automation system. I have looked online to verify and have not found anything to confirm that.

To the experts, is it correct that the new intelliflow3 vs pump is not compatible with the easy touch 4 system? I am being told our easy touch 4 system is original to the house back in 2007 which means it is too dated.

From a reliability standpoint, what are the pros and cons running the unit on 120v?
Reason. Yolink has an extreme range 120 outlet that could directly control the unit, or if 220v better, a dpst relay.
I do already use their temp monitor system for the freezers.

I am still 99% sold on the Sonoff solution, just throwing this out there for being able to present an alternative to my daughter. Planned new owner of the house.

Been lurking here for awhile and we're 75% complete with pool build, but getting nervous that I'm forgetting something and their pouring our deck tomorrow so that's pretty much game over as far as making any changes...We are in month 4 of the project.

Quick overview of pool:
13.5 x 34
3' to 6' depth
7' x 7' square raised spillover spa

Premix Marbletite Freestone pebble finish in Azure (concerned this may be too dark blue?)
4x6 waterline ceramic tile (Indiano Blue)
mosaic glass tile for spa (variable blue colors with darker indigo)
Caribbean cream colored spray deck (lightest color offered--like a cream white)

3 deckjets
2 globrite LEDs

Intellichlor VSF
200 SF filter
IC40 Intellichlor
SQ145 Aquacal Heat Pump

Screen enclosure in bronze

Pool is in Melbourne, FL. They put the electric for the lights on one side to connect with existing power and then the pool pad will be on the other side of the house. Works well to keep the sound down. We are doing a spray deck not pavers and a square coping versus a cantilever more in line with the look we were going for.

I could attach some pictures of the build in progress if it helps. Just wanted to drop a quick line on here for any of the gurus and see what you thought. Our price has definitely increased from our original quote two years ago and we've upgraded the tile--an $8K upgrade to do glass with elastomeric grout. All in we're at $115K.

Thanks for any insights into what I may be missing or ways to make it better.

We put in a pool about 17 years ago and I've learned a lot about pools over that time and fixed a lot of basic issues. The one thing i have never gone into is the pool heater, which is now the thing that is broken. I don't mind repairing stuff as long as I've got good advice and maybe get pointed toward a good video or two. I have followed this forum off and an on over the years and have used some of the tips I've found on here. It always seems like a very knowledgeable, sincere group. As long as everyone speaks slowly and uses small words, i feel pretty good about figuring out my pool heater problem here. Thanks!

First time pool owner. We opened it July 7th. It's a chlorine pool - 16X30 with a 3 foot tanning shelf, 2 steps down, 3 foot depth, to a 5.5 deep end (with an upside down cone to the deep end) - I'm sure there's a fancy name for that - but I'm not sure what it is. We have an auto cover that is installed under the rim of the pool (which we really love). Since we don't have a fence, I'm paranoid to leave it uncovered for any length of time. So, it's probably closed more than it needs to be - but with kids in the neighborhood, I don't want anything to happen. I have an inline chlorinator, I was using 1inch tablets, but when they ran out, I've switched to 3 inch tablets. Still getting the chlorine dialed in, it's been at 10ppm for the last 3-4 days, but I'm hoping for some sun burn off to lower that a bit. We live in Central Indiana, we have a heater, we'll see how late we keep the pool open. Some years are 80degree Octobers, some years are snow before Halloween. I purchased an automatic water tester (Sense2) that seems to be a good way to test. I know people hate test strips (me too) but I've already purchased the automatic reader, so I'm hesitant to also spend $117 on a test kit. We have a Aiper robot cleaner - which does a decent job, but it doesn't like the slope - and it doesn't do a good job on the corners. So, I manually vacuum as needed. I'm sure there are a TON of things I'm missing, and possible doing wrong, but as of yet, no one has run screaming from the pool with their skin peeling off, so I think I'm doing OK. Looking forward to learning from the group - I've heard LOTS of good things on social media, and so far, I've gotten really good tips!

My pool lights seem to be out of sync. They are different colors, and I'm not sure what to do to re-sync them. I've tried cutting the power to hard reset, but that didn't seem to work. Thoughts?

Is chlorine just broken down by direct sunlight or does heat also break it down? In an indoor pool would you need to use any CYA? This is just a theoretical question. I don't have an indoor pool and keep the CYA level in my pool at about 40. I'm just curious.

Hi

Loat power Wed afternoon No ETA yet. They say all will be up by Sat end of day

CYA was 40 snd FC was 7 last check Tuesday

Lot if rain yesterday and mote in forecast tomorrow

Whats the best fight i can fight against algae
Temp will be in 90s until Saturday morning

Thanks

Using an iphone. I enter the current pH, total alklinity, and log the addition of borax as recommended by the app. The log that I added borax is saved, but the current pH level is not saved.
Other values I entered for FC, TA, CYA are saved.
What am I doing wrong.
Thank you.

I've been using the TFP app for a few years. My TA, once I quit chasing, has been steady 80 for months. The CH has been steadily dropping to 350 for even longer. The PH hardly moves, I add 1/2 cup acid once a week and maintain 7.8. (Keeping 7.8, not lower, is what I attribute to the TA steadiness. )
Today, CH is 1025, I tested it 6 times. TA is 40. Tested twice. I thought I had bad reagent 0012 (new bottle). Then I checked TA. Also of note the CYA dropped to 50 from 70.
Florida, there's been rain, but no more than accumulated 2" at my house during the last week.
I cannot imagine its the make up water, there's been enough rainfall to offset evaporation. What's my best course of action?