Hayward S3 Control Panel error

I purchased a Hayward Turbocell S325, along with their new panel about 6 months ago.

I started receiving an error message that says "Invalid Cell" when all the settings and equipment is securely plugged in (at least from sight).

Recently my store replaced the cell entirely, and it still reads "Invalid Cell" after a factory reset of the panel and resetting the cell.

Any ideas?

2" piping with Pentair SuperFlo VST (342002)

I am in a middle of replacing all the piping and most of the equipment in my aboveground pool. I decided to go with 2" piping everywhere. I am using a Pentair SuperFlo VST pump (342002). After taking the pump out of the box, I realized that the pump comes with unions for 1.5" pipe (Pentair part 350093) (this is according to my plumber):

1688344873251.png

1688344921919.png

Can someone recommend a union designed for a 2" pipe? I would rather not use reducers, etc. - this defeats the point of using the 2" pipe.

Question about poolmath target ranges and CSI

Have a vinyl pool with SWG for 3 years. Thanks to TFP pool chemistry info, it has been easy to keep water clear and trouble free :)
Have a question about calcium and CSI please. Using poolmath app for the below chemistry and it calculates -0.68 CSI. They are all within or close to recommended range. What adjustments should I make to get CSI to above -0.3?
pH 7.6
TA 82
CH 121
CYA 50
Water temp 70 F - don't have heater so can't change this.
Salt 3200
CSI -0.68
Thanks in advance for any advise and guidance!

SWG Settings

Hi! I have a Jandy TruClear SWG that treats up to size 35k gallon pool. My pool is 20k gallons. We have been running it at 100% 24/7 because we haven't learned what to change the setting to yet. We decided to leave it at that setting while we focused on balancing the pool. I am now losing chlorine and my SWG says low chlorine.

Here are my test results (Taylor test kits):
Salt - 3400 ppm
FC - 1.0
CC- .5
PH - 7.8
TA- 210
CYA- 50

How would you move forward? I have salt and chlorine I can add but wanted some direction regarding the SWG first.

Is this enough disturbance to aerate and increase PH?


I know iCloud links aren’t preferred, but I don’t believe the site will let me upload a video. I’ve also included a still for anyone who might not want to view the video.

IMG_0831.jpeg

To buy or not to buy? (another Maytronics robot)

We have a dead Pentair Warrior SE. A big disappointment that worked fairly well for just over 2 years, the warranty period, then died the usual way. Should I buy another Maytronics robot or will it just die in another couple years? The guys at Leslie's where we went to look at them say Maytronics has solved the problem of motor burnout, but I'm skeptical. Opinions? If not Maytronics, what else is the best choice?

Water Hardness

I use a water softener that was installed in our home when we purchased it. I'm wondering if I can use the Calcium Hardness part of my test kit to get an idea if the softener is set to the right setting? I know that hardness is not just Calcium. Is there a proxy I can use to estimate total hardness or a way to modify the test using reagents in my K-2006 kit to test total hardness? And how does the conversion to grams of hardness work? Thanks!

Hayward H250IDL Standby only

I do have a problem with my H250IDL . The standby light is on but none of the buttons respond when pushed. The pcb board #R43 shows it has been hot I assume it is a resistor by the "R". My multi-meter has a audio beep when I check it, however none of the other resistors do. Where can I get the value of this resistor or capacitor what ever it is.

I checked with all power to the unit off .
GetAttachmentThumbnail
GetAttachmentThumbnail

Sand filter not filtering

Hi all,

We have a small 6000gal above ground pool. It came with a pump and cartridge filter but we upgraded to a 14" sand filter kit to not have to constantly wash out the cartridge.

I was going to buy a filter locally but the pool store near us did not carry something that small so I got a pump/filter combo on Amazon and bought the filter sand locally. It calls for 60lbs of sand filled between half way and 3/4 in the tank. I filled it to 3/4.


The issue that I'm having is that it does not seem to actually be filtering the water. The pump is moving plenty of water through the system. There are two inlets, one is connected to the skimmer and the other has the strainer on the side of the wall. These are T'ed together to the inlet of the pump. The pressure gauge reads 4psi.

I have verified that the valve is in the correct position. This one is simplified from the standard Hayward valves in that it only has Backwash, Rinse, Filter and Winter positions.

I've let it run for 40+ hours and it has had no change on the clarity of the water. The chemistry looks good with the correct chlorine and ph levels, yet the water is murky and unfiltered. The pressure never changes from above 4psi even when the filter has run long enough to need to be backwashed. The pressure is the same in all positions of the valve. In reading about low pressure all indications point to restricted flow but the flow is very good to and through the pump.

When backwashing, the flow is good but the water runs clear like nothing was captured in the sand. You can hear the sand moving around in the tank. Rinsing looks the same.

In an attempt to trouble shoot I removed some sand to get it to the 1/2 way mark. This made no change. I even disassembled the valve to check and see if the seals were good or if it possibly had been assembled 180 degrees out of alignment. But everything looked good and the segments of the valve in filter mode line up with sending the water from the pump to the distributor in the top of the tank and then on the standpipe outlet it is sent to the return to the pool.

Any thoughts as to why the filter is not filtering? Thanks!

Polyfill help

EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green, then you’re ready for the Polyfill.





My well water has iron in it, enough that when I add chlorine into my pool, it oxidizes the iron and turns the water a dull green color. Everyone said I needed to add in a sequestriant to sequester the iron, but that it wouldn’t actually remove it from the water, and that I’d have to keep adding the sequestriant every month. Not wanting to add any more chemicals to my pool than I need to, I read about using polyfill to filter the iron out of the water. Not having a skimmer to fill with Polyfill, I rigged up a 5 gallon bucket to my pool ladder with some string, have a couple dozen 1/4” holes drilled into the bucket, and a large hole drilled into the bottom of the bucket. The bottom hole is just big enough to let the smaller end of a vacuum tube fit into and about 90% of the way down the tapered tube, it seals tight. I then got a piece of PVC pipe that just barely fits inside the return hose and the vacuum tube (both happen to be exactly the same size), connecting both the tube and the hose together. Not wanting to ruin the only hose I have for my pump, I wrapped the rigged up connection with duct tape, then sprayed rust-o-leum rubber spray around it and gave it 5 mins to set, and then wrapped that with duct tape again. I repeated this 7 or 8 times and, once pressurized by the water from the return hose, only leaks at a rate of a single drop every 8 or 9 seconds. Again, don’t want to ruin my pumps hose, so that was the best I could do. Also sprayed the rubber spray around where the bucket and vacuum tube connect. After half a day of drying time, I opened the bucket and stuffed it with as much polyfill as I could, which came to about half the big bag I got from Walmart. That stuff starts expanding when compacted pretty quickly, so had to carefully close the lid without any sticking out. Now set the bucket on the pool ladder (strings tied across underneath bucket if you can’t use the top rungs) and use another string to hold the bucket steady. If you have a small pump that might tip over or has short hoses on it, tie it down on top of another bucket filled with water (I used cat litter container). Also tie your hoses up to give some extra support if needed. Unstop your intake holes, prime pump, and then watch clean water come pouring out of the holes in the bucket. Let it run like this for a couple days depending on how dark the iron has made your pool water. You should notice a difference within a day. If its bad enough that it fills up the polyfill (not sure how you’d know without taking down the bucket and opening it since mine wasn’t bad enough to have to change the polyfill), replace the polyfill every couple of days. Soon, you’ll see the bottom of your pool, and then you’ll end up with clear clean water with the iron actually removed from your pool, without needing to buy something monthly for it.

I will end up fixing the bucket so I can hook up a garden hose to it to top off my pool when low, and filter out the iron then before it gets into my pool again. Also, as I experienced, if you turn off your pump or it loses power, when you turn it back on, some of the brown iron water will start pouring back out because of the iron settling down to the bottom when the water isn’t moving. 10 seconds later, the water coming out of the bucket was clear again and within an hour, all the brown water that had been dumped back in was filtered out again. When your pool is back clear, you might notice some iron deposits sitting on the bottom of the pool, be sure to brush those deposits so your pump and pull that through the polyfill filter.

When you’re finally done and have a clear pool again, have someone else stop up the intake holes while your turn your pump off and then quickly get the bucket down before it runs out of water. This prevents any iron from settling to the bottom and spilling out into your pool. As a warning, be careful taking the bucket down, since its now filled with iron and water and is probably heavier than you’re expecting.


I’m attaching photos of how I rigged up the bucket, what the water looked like when I turned off the pump to check the filter and some iron spilled back in, and what it looked like when finished.


Here’s a link to the Photos Album containing my pictures of my setup to filter the iron.


Didn’t think to take photos beforehand, imagine my entire pool that green color.



This is my setup with it finishing up cleaning out the iron.



This is the holes in the lid and shows what my water looked like after filtering.
Attempting the polyfil filtering after over a month of trying to balance our iron laden saltwater pool.... I have stuffed some in my skimmer. How much or how little is too much or too little? Should it be stuffed to the brim?

Any Tips on Getting Weir Door Out

Hello,

I just had a new skimmer installed and of course the weir door that came with it is getting stuck. I'm going to have to take it out and shave it down or replace it. Problem is I cannot for the life of me get it out. It's the style that has two tabs on the sides that just slip into holes on the side of the skimmer. Real easy to get in, impossible to get out:



Anyone have any tips on getting this out? Thanks!

Cloudy weeks into SLAM added DE...

Hello all!

Struggled with our new pool last season, did a terrible job over the colder months and started out this year as a TFP devotee, already spreading the gospel!

We started our SLAM a few weeks ago. First got our PH down to 7.2. Initial CYA tests weren't reliable (so we were slamming at 31 thinking it was 80). Since vacuuming, a few storms and lots of backwashing and adding fresh water we're pretty positive it's in the 40s, rounding up to 50. Now we're keeping FC at 20. Using new reagent as well, so thinking the combination of old reagent and lack of experience caused us to get 80.

We've been pretty dang consistent, but not perfect, some days we've only tested and added twice, but most days (and the last 5 at least) we've tested at least 5 times a day and keeping it at shock level. CC has been .5 for a few days.

For about 10 days we've been totally blue, but very very cloudy. Like can't see my hand more than a foot down. Trying to remain patient and trust the process and avoid clarifier, although the Amazon reviews are tempting, I keep coming back here and talking myself out of it.

We knew that the guy that installed our hayward sand filter last year used quikcrete sand, so we switched to pool store sand hoping that might help last week after reading stories about bad quikcrete sand.

I bought DE and we added 1/4 cup diluted in water into skimmer basket. PSI has been consistently around 19. Just 1/4 cup made it quickly go up to 25 so we backwashed and it went back to 19. A few hours later decided to add more to try to get to 20, and it shot back up to 25 again. Backwashed again.

So then I realized that when I turned off filter to backwash, PSI only went to 10 when it was off. Not 0. So I guess I'm buying a new gadget.

A few questions for the brilliant experts:

Since I can't reliably check my PSI should I just backwash out the DE to avoid issues until new gauge arrives?

How can I test to see what other issues may be causing cloudy water if I'm mid SLAM?

Is it completely abnormal to be bright blue but so cloudy for over 2 weeks?

What else am I missing?

I really want to stay the course and solve this with liquid chlorine and DE, but I'm getting pretty discouraged and wonder at what point I try clarifier. Also unclear on what else I could mess up by using clarifier, I just know it's discouraged here.

Thanks for reading all my troubles! Y'all are the best and reading these forums and pool school finally made it all click after a really befuddled first season!
Hi there! Your situation sounded so familiar to ours and I’m just curious how it turned out? We are pretty close to killing all our algae and although it’s blue it’s extremely cloudy. We have an old sand filter. Wondering if we should try DE as well!

Time for new filter cartridges?

I've got a Sta-Rite System 3 S7M, and my 2 cartridges are about 3 years old. I'm not sure if it's just correlation with us getting a black lab that LOVES to swim last year, but I'm literally hosing off the cartridges every 2 weeks this spring/summer if we let him swim. They're filled with brown water and clumps of dog fur. I did the Cascade overnight soak for both of them, and am trying to determine if they're toast, or my dog is just clogging them up super quickly and I just have to deal with it. I started using skimmer socks for when we let him swim, and it'll catch some, but it doesn't seem to be making a significant difference in how much fur gets into the egg.

I did get lazy last year and start pressure washing them to help speed things up. I used a 25-degree nozzle and made sure to stand 3-ish feet away. I never noticed any tears in the fabric, so I assumed everything was just fine. I recently switched back to just using a regular hose nozzle just to make sure though.

Another thing is that if I have people swim for a couple hours, the water gets pretty cloudy, even with the pump running at 30 or 35GPM. It takes about 24 hours of the pump being on before the water is crystal clear again. All my chem levels are in line with Pool Math recommendations (CYA 80, FC 10-11, pH 7.6, TA 70, CH 350, Salt 3800). I'm just not sure why it gets so cloudy so quickly, and if it might be an indication of the carts being toast. I'm really not looking forward to dropping $500+ on a new set, but it's looking like that's my next step...

Help setting up prowler 930w

Hi new to pools and this community site. I recently built a pool first time for me owning a pool. We got the prowler 930w robot but we could net never get past the qr scan on the Pentair home app. Pretty much add device click prowler 930w and it says scan QR code to connect however no camera or anything happens to allow the actual scan. If I select the continue button it searches and after while fails to find robot, every time. My wife and I work and can’t ever seem to be available to talk to Pentair tech support during their business hours since we are on the west coast. I’ve reached out to them via email but they say we need to contact them and talk over phone for troubleshooting. The robot works and we use it However it’s just not on our Pentair home app and we can’t monitor the robot and other things you’d be able to see and control on the app. Any help would be appreciated.

Tiny Holes in Liner...again

I have a 20,000 gallon above ground pool. It is installed on top of a Gorilla Pad, which is directly on top of the ground. In 2020, we had a large number of pinholes in our liner (dozens of them) and it was suggested that I damaged the liner with too much chlorine. (I was trying to get rid of algae that wouldn't go away). We paid someone to replace the liner last year, and before the summer was even over, I was pretty sure we had a leak again. Now that the pool is open, I took a closer look and can see there are more pinholes again. Now I'm thinking it's ants or temites, because I've been very careful with my chlorine use. My question is, if we install a concrete pad under the pool, will this help with the insect problem? Have any of you had this issue and if so, what did you do? We love our pool, but we can't afford to replace a liner every 3 months lol.

Jandy Heater won't turn on --- missing its 24V from my RS Control Panel

Realized my Jandy Hi-E2 heater isn't even trying to turn on this morning even though I'm telling it to turn on through the iAquaLink app (and temp setting was HIGHER than the water temp). I did some troubleshooting and found this when testing voltages.

1688227980641.png

Step #1 -- I passed, 24V at transformer.
Step #2 -- I passed, 24V at the red wire terminal block
Step #3 -- I failed, only 6V at the white wire terminal block

Note -- in the above diagram it shows a BLACK jumper wire between the terminal block. I do NOT have that because I am controlling my heater via my Jandy iAqualink RS control box. (the black wire is ONLY if you have no automation/remote controlling it).

So at the fireman switch terminal block, I have this: (crude drawing, note the black/wire wires from Paint3D that I added)

1688228691371.png

And at my Jandy RS unit, I have these voltages:

1688227867035.png

So it seemed like the issue wasn't the heater but the Jandy RS controller box/board?

To verify my heater isn't the issue, I removed the 2-wire connection FROM the fireman switch/junction terminal TO the Jandy RS control box, and put in a JUMPER like this again (pic right below), so now the heater is ONLY controlled at it's own control panel and NOT by the Jandy RS control box (and iAquaLink):

jumper.JPG
And of course, my heater fires up as it's getting 24V again and sends it along to the pressure switch etc. So does this mean my Jandy RS control board is bad since only 6V is coming back out instead of 24V? Ugh.

Pentair VSP Inteliflow 3HP Pump with 4-Cartridge Filter

Just upgraded burnt out VSP Pentair to Inteliflow 3HP, set 24 hr/day, “low” I believe, by Tech. Electrician’s wife, the pool savvy one who purchased pump for me didn’t come with him, couldn’t ask her questions!
My Cartrdge filter is operating at much lower pressure: 5 vs 15 on old one. Skimmers don’t have much in them either but water looks clear. Is this normal?

Polaris 8050 robotic pool cleaner stalling

Im having problem with my Polaris 8050 Sport robotic cleaner. Recently it seem to be stalling (pump continue to run). If i pull it out and move wheels manually and putting it back in the water it will run fine for random period of the time(between 10 to 30 minutes) and then stall again. I receive no error on control box. Noticed when moving wheels manually i feel inconsistent (sometime more the other time less)resistance and its pretty noisy. I suspect it has something to do with the drive motor or gearbox.
Before i will get entire motor block replacement(pretty costly) i would like to give it a try to replace just a drive motor as this is where the problem seem to be.
Did anyone manage to replace motor in your cleaner or repair gearbox if motor seem to be ok? if so where did you get replacement motor/gearbox part and did you run into any issues while replacing/fixing it?

Any response and help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

Solar Cover Pros and Cons - one person's opinion

I grew up with a pool at my parents house and when I moved into my current house 16 years ago I immediately had an in-ground pool put in. I never had a solar cover for my pool until a few weeks ago. Now that I have had the cover for a a little while I thought I would post a few comments on the pros and cons.

One assumption here - I want my pool water to be at 84F when we are swimming. An in-ground pool and the landscaping associated with are a substantial investment. So the trade off in having a cover is not having to use my natural gas heater - I live in Toronto. To me the options are not heating the pool or not heating the pool. The only questions is how much does it cost me to keep the pool heated to 84F.

My pool is an irregular shape. I am not able to use a roller due to this shape. That is a big impediment. I now regret not having a rectangular shaped pool.

Pros of a Solar Cover
Save money on natural gas. This will depend on the year and gas prices, but the annual savings are probably from $500-$1000.
Save money on water - I assume that you will have reduced evaporation if you keep the cover on your pool. So you don't have to refill it as frequently.
Save money on chemicals. You should use less chlorine if your pool is covered. It is unclear how much this helps if you have a SWCG, as I do. But you can likely run it at a lower power level, which could potentially extned the life of your salt cell.

Cons of a Solar Cover
Cost of the cover - not a huge cost - mine was about $300.
Reduced propensity to use the pool - unless you have an automated system to take the cover off and put it back on there is now a hindrance to using your pool.
Hassle of taking the cover off - this is far easier if you have two people, but I am normally doing this myself. Taking the cover off by myself is a pain in the butt. My cover is cut into two 18'x18' and taking the cover off, and carrying it to where I store it, causes me to get rather wet.
Reduced aesthetics - IMO your pool and yard look less attractive with a solar cover on the pool.
Storing your cover - you need a place to store your cover. If it is on your deck it will be taking up space and look ugly. My understanding is that your should not store the cover in direct sunlight. So you should have a cover or put it someplace where it is not in the sun.
Obstructs pool cleaners - I don't have my Dolphin robot in when the pool is covered as the cover would interfere with the cleaner.

I guess the best of both worlds would be to have an automated system to put the cover on and off. But that is expensive and is probably a substantial investment that may not have a positive NPV.

I would be interested in heating the perspective of others.

Cloudy Water

Hello everyone,

My pool looks good from outside but when I open my eyes underwater is very cloudy and I can barely see. We are listing our house for sale soon and I am afraid my water may turn green when we have buyers coming to look at it. We cleaned the pump filters today and they were not too bad. I did an overnight loss test and it was 0.5. Here are some more numbers:

FC: 5.5
CC: 0
CYA: 30. I have been wanting to raise this a little and I had chlorine pucks leftover from the previous owner so I have been putting some pucks in the water to raise CYA. I am afraid I will get yelled at for doing this.
TA: 80
Ph: 7.8
CH: I haven't tested because I live in AZ and I expect high CH.

What could be the cause of the cloudy water? Thank you so much!

Filter