Greetings all. Had this pool installed back in March and noticed grout extremely brittle to the touch. Installer has returned to fill in holes. However, it still looks shotty in my opinion and still brittle. Is there anything I can seal this grout with? Is it normal? Am I being difficult? Attached pictures for reference.

Thanks all

Hi, I noticed a few small green spots on the walls of the pool. Here are the current measurements:
pH 7.8
TA 8
CYA 50
FC 6
Calcium 250
Salt 2400

Just wondering what I need to do to get rid of the green spots before it gets worse. Thanks.

I have an inground gunite pool with a built-in spa and caretaker system. Both the pool and spa are leaking 3/4" -> 1" of water per day.

I performed the "bucket test" and validated water loss is the same in the pool and spa, and that the water loss is the same with the pump ON and OFF.

If I understand correctly, this implies either a leak on the suction side or in the structure (drain, sweep, light, skimmer, etc).

I hired a professional that tested the suction side, the skimmer, and the pool sweep return. He told me no leaks were present there and recommended I tape the conduit in the pool light.

I've been looking for leaks with dye around the lights, caretaker returns, and main drains, and I cannot find any leaks.

Questions:
1. Is a 3/4" -> 1" per day leak fast enough to find with dye?
2. I don't see any epoxy or tape around the conduit inside my light (light removed), but I don't see any leaks there with dye either. Should I see a leak with dye when a leak that slow?
3. What's the expected behavior from the dye around a hole/leak in the gunite? Would it settle there, or draw in?

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated at this point. Cheers!

Hello,

We're down to the final decisions for our pool project: pool finish. The StoneScapes Mini Pebble is our base finish (included in quote), but we saw samples of the Puerto Rico Blend that includes glass beads. The Puerto Rico Blend seemed smoother to the touch, but our contractor said he didn't think it was worth the extra cost (though he'd be happy to spend our money) and that we wouldn't notice the difference once everything was "sanded" down. I'm assuming he was just using simpleton speak for me, as from my understanding, there is now sanding/polishing in the process.

We're leaning towards Tropics Blue.

Anyone have experience with the smoothness and color differences between Mini Pebble, Puerto Rico Blend Small and Touch of Glass?

So I have the cheap little intex pressure side auto cleaner and every few days it manages to get itself stuck under my steps.

Sometimes it will get stuck like that and sometimes it will make it all the way through, but then it’s hose will go under the steps and it can’t get to the rest of the pool. Once it managed to get through and pull through enough hose that it completely wrapped itself around the steps and then got stuck under them.

Here are the steps:

I’m thinking I could just put something under the steps to block the cleaner from going under them but I have no idea what. Something that can stay permanently in the water and either be attached to the steps or be heavy enough that it won’t float away.

Any brilliant ideas?

Thanks

Hello,

I’ve got a manual water fill valve that goes to a PVC pipe that is built into my pool slightly below waterline.

Every time I add water the valve leaks water through the top of the back flow vent thing and seems to do it regardless of how open the valve is.

Any ideas on how to fix this?

Are calcium levels important with a vinyl liner? I’ve never tested calcium levels because I thought they weren’t. But, I was talking to a rep at Majic Jacks about something else (metal staining), and he said mine were too low and it would cause my liner to stretch and ripple.

I've search past threads and found a video that I think is helpful to answer this question...I'm looking for updated information.
We have really hard water from our well. After 15 yrs, we need to replace the PAL 2000 lights. Any tips on replacing them?
My husband is DIY electrically savvy so would like to replace 3 bulbs. Looks like o ring is leaking.

From another thread- It's 11 yrs old
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PB has spec'd an AquaRite S3 and has said I'll be able to control everything from my phone. Salt/Pumps/Valves for features. When I look under automation it's between Omni and Pro Logic. It's hard to understand the differences between the three. Is there an easy resource?

Hi everyone,
3 weeks ago I had my liner replaced and the company sent out a horrible crew. They pulled the pool wall and cause 2 sides to collapse causing river rock to fall 2 ft down. ( Pool is partial buried) Found out Friday that brand new skimmer is cracked and had another pool company come to replace and redo my hard plumbing.
The new pool company is now telling me that they won't touch anything bc I need a new liner! They said the original installers cut the liner too short. I was told it is supposed to be long enough to wrap around the metal wall and then you add the skimmer gasket and faceplate. I called the original installers and they got upset, why wouldn't I call them and this new installer doesn't know what he is talking about. She said the liner is cut correctly and once the screws go into to place the gasket and faceplate will create a seal and it will not leak.
Can any of you look at this picture and tell me if this is cut incorrectly? The cost to add a new liner is going to hit the wallet not to mention we haven't even been able to swim in it this year bc of other pool issues.
Thank you very much!

I have a PCC2000 inground pool cleaner and I am replacing the gear module in the valve port for the second time in 6 years. My question is which is better: the inground pool cleaner or my suction Aquanaut 200 cleaner? I ordered a new module (250 bucks) and it should be running again this week. I am guessing if it keeps the pool clean I can put away the Aquanaut?

Hello Everyone,

Your support is greatly appreciated.

My pool was built in Nov. of 2021 in Cincinnati Ohio. Its a 20 x 40 inground with liner. I have used the pool for 1 season in 2022, and now into 2023. This year I found that the vermiculite is soft where it meets the steel wall in the shallow end in-between a light and return skimmer. I can push with my foot down and feel the give and probably push it further if I wanted, but was concerned. I would say it feel similar to sand or clay underneath the liner. I'm hoping someone could shed some light on my situation. How concerned should I be? Why is this occurring? What can be done about it? Would a leak at the light or skimmer create the problem? So many questions.... The worst area is in-between both skimmer and light, with about 5" from the wall being soft, as you move toward the skimmer it reduced to maybe 3". I didn't notice it last year, but not saying it wasn't there, just didn't do a check.

I'll be doing a bucket test this weekend to see if the pool is leaking, but wasn't sure if this would cause the situation.

Thanks!

Our 2005 inground gunite pool/hot tub currently have limestone coping. As many have found out the limestone degrades over time producing all sorts of rough surfaces and revealing fossils that pop out, etc., etc. The existing deck is concrete with an epoxy textured surface I think was called TuffKote. It's also worn and will likely be redone with that same material. We have no plans to move to SWG from our current liquid chlorine.
I've looked around and am desiring a very robust and cost effective material. Pavers, bricks, poured concrete, etc. all appear nice enough looking but how do they compare in cost, maintenance and lifespan?

Inteliflow does not show display not active, its shows pump speed. Status on Easytouch shows No Comm. I replaced the RS-485 cable but nothing changed. Programs are all set to manual. Intechlor working fine. I reset pump & eashtouch with no luck.

Hello all,
I am a new member as of today.
I live 20 miles south of Houston, Texas.
I’ve recently retired after 40+ years of work.
I’m adjusting to retirement and immersing myself in trying to get my 23 year old 16,000 gl. pool in top shape. I admit that the level of attention the pool has received has been lacking until the past couple years. The plaster is original with significant overall damage (sorely needs replacing). Tile and coping in remarkably good shape. Pentair 60 DE filter (filter grid replacement last fall). I use a chlorine tablet feeder with Leslie’s Trichloro pool tablets. I have the original Polaris 280 cleaner (proudly maintained through the years). I run the circulating pump 8 hours daily 365 days a year.

I am currently battling (for a month now) an emergent “black algae” problem. Found approximately 50 spots on pool floor in shallow end. Deep end appears devoid of any BA. I’ve been scrubbing the spots with a chlorine tablet with some success. The spots that remain are now more brown than black and don’t appear to be growing.

Another concern is with my pH. I am struggling to achieve a pH of less than 8. I have repeatedly dumped the prescribed muriatic acid (I use Leslie’s pool for sample analysis) while adjusting/maintaining Total Alkalinity numbers within range.

I have been adding 1.5# of HTH brand cal-hypo shock weekly (since BA discovery).
Chlorine levels are always maintained in the 1-4 range
Currently pH is 8 (been as high for short periods as 8.5)
TA is 87.
CYA is currently 104.
Phosphate level is in the 450 range

I have read that the black algae can cause pH to be high.

My question is do I need to totally eliminate the BA before I have a chance to gain pH control?
If so, how do I eliminate the BA?

Thanks for reading and I look forward to advice!
Ken

I have a Hayward SuperPump SP2610X15 that was running a non-original motor (Century B129) that has finally gave up on me. I am not faced with a decision on what motor to replace it with as I believe that it was too big for my SuperPump which I would assume came with a 1.5 HP with a SF of 1.0; the B129 is a 1.5HP and SF of 1.3. My setup is simple (single skimmer, no drain) with 1.5" pipes and a Hayward S244T Sand Filter. So my question is the B129 (effectively 1.95 rated HP) too big for my pool and should I be using something close to the original motor? I have looked at the V-Green 1.65 VS motor replacement but I am not sure that I want to spend extra on it since I have an older pump. My AC unit went down and I'm tasked with the expense of replacing it tomorrow so I just cannot spring for the whole pump replacement today.

Thanks in advance.

I have 25ft round ABG vinyl pool. I have had it for 40 years. Discovered TFP about 15 years ago, saved much money and great water with few problems. Every year about this time I get what I call green dust algae. It is not slimy, but like a green dust on the bottom and around the cove area. I never have let the FC drop below 5 this season and the CYA has been 35-40, all other numbers very good. In the past, I would SLAM and the problem was gone. So I used LB to bring FC to 13 to 15 and kept it there for a week. I forgot to mention that the CC was 0.5 and then to 0 soon after the start of the SLAM. I have been running the sand filter24/7 since. The FC only drops 2ppm overnight. The green dust remains. I also took out my pool ladder for 3 days to make it easier to vacuum and brush. I am going to order a DE substitute from Amazon to add to my sand filter to see if this will clear the water and get rid of the green dust. I think the product is called Jack's Magic Filter Fiber. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Pentair Mastertemp 300 shows 1 degree for pool temp. Heater continously runs. I have replaced the thermistor with no change.

Hello, I was getting a Lo code on my heater and replaced a few parts and it went right away, it started up and then went right off, a few times and I received an IF code. I replace the igniter then I got the LO code back. The pool does seem like its not pumping as hard, but the pump seems to be working normally. I cleaned the filter and removed the piping to check for any debris and found nothing. The pump is probably 4 years old - could that be the issue? It's just not pumping as hard as it used to?

Hello,

Long-time lurker, first-time poster.

We are building a pool in Florida. I need to choose a decking material that a) stays as cool as possible in the sun and b) has decent traction (so kids don't slip). Any recommendations?

Based on my own research, I'm thinking a light-colored travertine might be a good option. Travertine tiles come in 1.25" and 2" thickness. Would a thicker tile stay cooler in the sun, or does thickness not really affect heat absorption?

Thank you very much!

im very new to this. i have the taylor 2006-c kit.
above ground pool 8402 gallons. intex 3000 sand filter combo.
PH-7.2
ALKALINITY- 70
CHLORINE- I ADDED 45 DROPS SO I BELIEVE ITS 9 (THEN 3 DROPS FOR COMBINED)
CYA-55
What do i do now?

I was sent here by a redditor, and this definitely seems like the place I should be. I bought a house that came with an 18x33 above-ground pool. It was nice and clear when we inspected, and since then has turned green. I took a sample and went to a local pool store (readings attached), which was informational enough to justify the cost of shock/etc for me as an absolute beginner. However, I’m already lost, and already not wanting to get sucked into more expensive pool-store products. Hoping I can leave here enlightened as to exactly what I have, and how to use it all going forward using the PoolMath app. I’ve attached photos of the progress with the pool (and what items I have in inventory for maintenance), and outlined the exact steps taken so far in cleaning. Thanks in advance.

Day 1: Scrubbed every surface with brush, cleaned skimmer, backwashed the sand filter. Shocked with 4 lbs TurboShock at dusk.

Day 2 (Today): Green is gone, now cloudy. Hooked up hose to waste port, vacuumed to waste. Backwashed/rinsed filter again. Used test strips found in garage, found pH and alkalinity to both be low.

Questions so far: Is this pool considered to be a salt pool or a chlorine pool? I have pool salt, but also chlorine products. How do proceed chemically (what is the ideal pH increaser) as well as how to get my pool/readings configured to use PoolMath app?

Decided to join this great group after reading another member’s post (Wayner ) from Toronto on how to fix my wier door from coming loose on my 15 year old in ground pool. Simple fix that saved me a lot of money. Time for me to try to help others in the pool community and pay it forward.

Cheers all and have a great summer

I love this place and have learned a lot and still learning from
All of you guys thank you

New to looking after pool. Having trouble with cloudiness. Chemistry is perfect as per pool store water test. Sand was replaced this year. I’ve added floc, clarifiers etc - have vacuumed every day or so but still can’t see bottom of deep end. I’m getting a lot of debris from jets when vacuuming so I vacuumed to ‘waste’ and STILL got junk shooting out of jets. This is a 110,000 litre inground pool - Hayward multiport pump. Can anyone help me get my pool cloud-free? Thanks for any help

Hello TFP family,
I have a old Magnatek Century Centurion B124, 220V, FR M56C, 2HP, RPM 3450 that finally died on the hottest weekend in SoCal. It pops the breaker as soon as I turn it on.
At first I was thinking of keeping the pump portion and changing the motor with the Century VGreen variable but then that also probably 30-35 years old as the motor is.
I assume plumbing in the PVC and a few unions would be what I need. Looking for a couple of other recommendations VS for a DIY project.
Reasonable priced but not the cheapest lowerend version and where to buy.
Thank you

Hey all. We live in Southern NH and have owned our house for 9 years. Our pool was installed in 1975 according to town records. Some tiles have fallen off and the plaster needs to be resurfaced.

We had a new skimmer and main drain enclosure installed when we moved in due to leaks. The piping in the gunite is 1 1/2 black poly pipe. I dug a trench and ran new PVC to the skimmer and main drain tie in under the skimmer.

Does plumbing in the walls of a pool this old pose a threat of failure? I would love to have this resurfaced and re tiled because our kids love it and removing it would be very costly and disruptive. Thank you in advance.

My water is crystal clear, numbers look great and no algae all summer. But you can see stains that look like dirt or sand or pollen on the bottom of the deep end. The shallow end looks perfect and honestly I’m the only one who probably notices the stains since I take care of the pool. It’s a subtle all over the floor thing, not dark obvious stains. All I can think of is leftover organic (pollen) stains from spring.

Well, I have the salt water testing kit from tftest kits. We got water in the pool today. PC put in sequestrant and some liquid chlorine, 3/4 of a standard jug. The pump has been running for several hours. I did a FAS/DPD test (twice) and the water never changed, indicating zero chlorine. I did a CL/PH test and got like .5 on CL and a 7.6 on my PH. I tried doing a CYA test and the dot never disappears. The pool guys took a sample to the store, but it was late and I never heard back from them as they are now closed. Lol, HELP. Brand new, and trying to see what I need to do since we just put in the water. Obviously we are not a salt pool yet...30 days to go

Hi everyone! My buddy in Michigan recommended this forum. I just took over pool maintenance from the company we'd been using, and I'm having some issues keeping the dang thing chlorinated. (The pool's also been a relationship sore spot and I'm gonna try not to TMI y'all, but I'd be trying different things if it were just me, so I'm gonna need to reference that a little. Okay, a medium amount... maybe a lot?)

Our CYA is over 100 ppm. I can't be more exact than that because the test I used, the kind where you check the level once the black dot stops being visible, doesn't label the beaker far down enough. It's off the charts high. I suspect this is because before I took over, nobody remotely cared about our CYA levels; the pool company was using chlorine tabs and I suspect dichlor shock.

When I first took over and started testing, there was consistently almost no free chlorine, even with several trichlor tabs in the floatie. The pool looked fine and we weren't having algae problems (yet), but I wanted to get the chlorine levels up before we got a nasty bacterial surprise, so I started doing some research, which led me to start troubleshooting it as a CYA issue.

I pulled the trichlor floatie and picked up some cal hypo and liquid chlorine. The cal hypo gets the chlorine levels up pretty consistently, the liquid chlorine has been harder to deal with in regard to figuring out what dosage is gonna move the needle. I've dumped in four gallons trying to hyperchlorinate and successfully gotten the levels above 10 ppm, I've also dumped in four gallons and been at .5 ppm eight hours later.

In any case, the chlorine level will only stay in the swimmable range for one day before dropping back down to barely chlorinated, then if I don't put in more chlorine that night, we get algae. I'm spending mad bank at the WalMart outdoor department like it's a strip club in Vegas.

As for trying to get the CYA down, we're in Phoenix valley summer temperatures at the moment, so we can't do a full drain & refill. We've got a (not super powerful) pool pump that we've used for a few hours at a time over two or three nights, and it did get the CYA down some, in that it went from being way off the charts to only substantially off the charts. Our auto-refiller is too loud to run at night, so if we use the pump, someone has to stay up until 2-4 AM to shut off the refill hose. (It's me, I'm someone.)

I need my partner's buy-in to run the pump, and he's more concerned about our plaster and our water bill than he is about our cyanuric acid. Honestly it's turned into a weird thing where he thinks I'm hyperfixated on the CYA to the exclusion of anything else that might be causing a chlorine problem, and I'm trying to explain that from what I've read, we haven't even done the pool equivalent of turning it off and back on again.

Well, today he said he wants to hire a new pool company, because it'd be cheaper than what I'm spending on chlorine anyway (can't argue) and he doesn't want to think about it anymore. I said okay, but could we look for a company that would actually work with us about the cyanuric acid levels instead of showing up, throwing the floatie back in, and busting out more dichlor shock? He said sure, as long as I was willing to call around and find a company that would do that. (Most of the reason the pool has been a contentious issue is he's stretched thin & we agreed I'd take care of it myself.)

I started researching pool companies today (figured I'd call Monday since many are closed on Saturday) & got more and more depressed every time I'd read the list of services & it just said "chlorine tabs." I really don't have any faith that if we hire a new company, we won't wind up back in a situation where we have a nice-looking pool with barely any chlorine. I'm also pretty sure I could stay on top of this by myself if the CYA levels were lower and I wasn't buying & adding chlorine every other day.

So tl;dr: here are my questions, troublefreepool forum:

Am I hyperfixating on CYA?
Is there something else that might be causing the high requirements for external chlorine? (It's definitely gotten hotter, and we get a ton of sun.)
Is there some noob thing I'm just doing fundamentally wrong here?
It is true that I'm supposed to have to add way less chlorine than this, right? (I'm at like 8 gallons a week.)
What might be causing the inconsistent results I'm getting with liquid chlorine dosage?
Is it actually okay to have a nice-looking pool with barely any chlorine and I should just calm down and accept the trichlor floatie back into my life?
If I'm not wrong about assuming I should troubleshoot this as a CYA issue, can anybody who actually knows about this stuff back me up with an authoritative statement?

Thanks in advance!