Hi experts.

I was using my spa, heater, and air blower and the breaker on my pool pump tripped. The breaker is a 40M Siemens breaker.

The breaker seems to also feed the pentair intellicenter i8psc with the ic40 salt cell, and the screen was out when it tripped.

The equipment that was on when the breaker tripped was a mastertemp400, intellflo3 vsf (set to 3400 rpm) and a silencer air blower (model 1-632042) 2hp, 240v 4.6amp is what's written on the sticker.

Could my breaker be overloading because there is to much on this breaker. The pool is barely 2 months old and it hasn't tripped (to my knowledge) when the equipment was running before.

I am going to try to turn on each equipment independently to rule out a short, but wanted to ask you all to see what yall think of this setup.

Hey all, I noticed my waterfall wasn’t working well at low flowrates and the mortar is eroded from the edges of the waterfall. Am I ok to just use premixed grout that is sand colored from the tile aisle at Home Depot, or should I use a mortar ?

This seems simple enough, any recommendations?

Photos attached

Bought a S200 in 2018 and have been, generally, less than impressed by it. I've had to replace numerous parts - drive gear, wheel, wheel gear, inside wheel bushing, and belts. And it probably needs a new cord and filter set too.

When I first got it I was impressed at how much fine sediment it picked up. But also from the get-go the thing never really crawled up my walls and cleaned either.

Of course, the thing is 5 yrs old and maybe what I've experienced is expected as wear and tear parts. Prior to getting the S200 I had a Baracuda G3 and it did fine - but I tossed it as soon as the S200 came. While the S200 was waiting for parts I ended back up with a simple Baracuda knock-off that does fine.

For my first robot I expected more - or at least to do better than a $90 G3 knock-off.

Can I just upgrade the interface or do I need to buy a new pump? When the power goes out I have to completely redo all the settings. I'm getting tired of it and would like one that has a memory. What is the best way to accomplish my goal? TIA

Login to view embedded media I noticed this morning the pump was running but water wasn't flowing.

The waterline is high enough for the intake

I cleared the baskets in the skimmer box and in the pump

I tried manually priming by blocking the intake, opening the lid and filling up with water and closing the lid tight and unblocking the intake.

The pump immediately started losing prime again, and it sounds like the air is coming in from the motor end of the pump itself or something.

There is water underneath the pump but I'm not sure if it's leaking or just water that splashed when I was troubleshooting/priming.

One thing I did notice was salt on the outside of the motor that you can see in the video, and some on the ground where I knocked it off.

In the video you can hear the glugging as the pump loses prime, and the gurgling sound that I thought might be air coming in on the right hand side.

All the lights are green. Is it possible it is not generating chlorine? Thanks.

I have a 12-year-old LG electric dryer. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the breaker was tripped. I reset it and went along with my business. Then my wife pointed out it had done it again, and it happened to me as well. Otherwise, this thing is working like new still.

I had planned on testing the continuity and resistance on the heating element as soon as I had a day with free time. Today, while doing a quick load of clothes for a weekend to trip to CA I noticed the breaker had tripped again, but this time it occurred to me that it had tripped when not in use. it has since done it a couple of times. I check it as soon as it is done with its cycle and there is power still. then come back later to a tripped breaker.

Any thoughts here? It isn't tripping while the unit is in use. I am wondering if it is possibly the breaker that has gone bad. New house (1 year this month). Thoughts, suggestions?

Hi

I had my leisure pool fiberglass put in 2021. The model is ultimate 35


I noticed two issues this year:

1. Hairline crack at the hot tub ledge
2. Random irregular discolouration in deep water throughout the pool. It is not the water line fade because these random discolouration are in deep end . They are at least 3 discolouration I’ve discovered. The shape of these discolouration is irregular and has no well defined shape unlike water line fade.


My water is in the right ph, aklinity , and chrome level. I have SWG.

I’ve filed a warranty claim on the crack but is the discolouration normal?

New pool owner needing help. 13,000 gallon gunnite saltwater pool, filled with city water. I'm right at a year of pool ownership and have always had crystal clear water. Parameters are typically spot on but anytime there's been a minor issue, it was low chlorine or high PH and I would remedy that. Not sure if this was the cause, but I shocked the pool a couple months back and within a day or two I noticed some brown streaky stains. I tried to rub some Vitamin C on a stain on the swim deck, to no avail (rubbed a couple tablets pinched between fingers on stain till tablet was gone). Would that have been enough time? I've also tried rubbing a chlorine tablet on it... That did nothing at all. At worst, PH was arguably a little high (8.0) when I shocked it. Any advice? Thank you in advance!

Hey all. Last pool we had was 2006. Moved north but have retired and moved back south. New pool installed but we have an Ionizer. Looking for guidance on maintaining levels? Which forum do I need to visit?
Thanks.

So we had this wall outlet for our old pressure side Polaris to "click" into it. Now we have a robot which runs independently. Wanting a new cooling fountain, Skippy built one up using another Polaris wall fitting so now we're using the fountain or just allowing the line to be another "return" in the wall. The only parts not glued together are the polaris end to the PVC end, just in case we want to alter something down the road. In total cost less than $20 (mostly for the Polaris parts) and works a charm! Pool temp dropped like 5 degrees in 24 hours. I am proud of Skippy :batman:

Living in Tampa, FL and trying to enjoy a 10,000 gallon salt water pool. Air temp 95F, pool temp 94F humidity 79% and dew point 76F. After reading various threads, still trying to figure out how to get the water cooler to enjoy our new pool. The Glacier cooler seems to do well in drier climes, but evaporation doesn’t seem to work in subtropical climate conditions. So what does work…anyone figured it out?

And the verdict is ... it's just ok. Yes, it mixes the water better than my swirling by wrist but I don't really see the need for it. It was "fun" watching the cyclone in the jar. I'll keep it, use it and maybe it'll grow on me but at this point if/when it breaks I wouldn't replace it. I payed $50 for it so hopefully it lasts a while.

What I did like was the graduated cylinders in the TF100 kit, first time using that as well.

Sorry to be a downer on it's use as everyone seems to loves it.

I'm getting ready to do my first SLAM on Coleman 22x52 10.4k gallon Salt Pool. My numbers are all over the place because I've been doing partial drains/dilution to get my CYA down.

I've been fighting an algae bloom due to the extreme heat in the Southern USA

Going to get my pH bumped up to 7.2 today and start adding bleach this evening.

My Salt, TA and CH are really low so I need to get them up as well. Is it OK to correct these during the SLAM, or should I wait until afterwards (or before)???

Current numbers
FC 3.33
TC 3.62
pH 7.0
TA 27
CH 35
CYA 40
Salt 1920

Intex 16" Sand Filter
Intext Krystal Klear SWG

Hi all,

I suspect my CP3000 is not triggering my spa jet pump. The pump is inoperative when I switch it on, whereas the other two pumps (filter, slide/feature pumps) work fine. I replaced the capacitor on the jet pump, no dice. And when I run a electricity detector (this) along the power cable to the pump, it detects nothing. The fuse in the control panel seems OK. So I suspect the circuitry is not triggering the power to the pump. Any suggestions for troubleshooting that? Thanks!

I'm relaying a message from a family friend who I don't want to see taken advantage of, but without going into the pool service business as a side job I can't run over there multiple times a week to take things into my own hands either.

Long story short her pool is 23 years old and she is adamant that the cartridges in her Sta-Rite System 3 filter have never been replaced, just cleaned annually in the spring and she has otherwise had minimal issues with the pool over the years. Until this year that is; she has been battling algae all summer, has had the cartridges cleaned out a couple of times, but the people she's hired to do it just keep telling her the system is old and needs to be replaced. One guy did offer to replace the cartridges and quoted her $1000 to do so. I was shocked to learn that these System 3 cartridges are in fact $450-$500 range even if I ordered them online. With that said, the latest guy she's talked to offered to either install them for her for a fee if she ordered them, but also quoted her for a new Hayward C3030 325sqft filter setup installed for somewhere around $2400-$2500.

I have a sand filter and I've only had my pool a few years, so I have no idea if filters (especially of the cartridge variety) have a lifespan and thus is it even worse the high price of the System 3 cartridges vs replacing the entire filter?

Furthermore, would anything about old/degraded cartridges even lead to this algae problem? I think that's my biggest worry, she will go through all of this to get new cartridges or a whole new filtration system only to find the algae problem remains. Maybe the algae has taken hold in the old broken down cartridges and no amount of water flow or cleaning them is killing it? Grasping at straws.

I do hope to get over there in the next day or so to do a full run of tests, but based on her description of the water now of course I expect the numbers won't be great. I may end up just having to help conduct a SLAM by going back and forth as often as possible to get the water clean, just need to make sure I'm educated as much as possible about how cartridges react to algae and age so I can help her come up with the best plan.

Coming down from SLAM. My PH was low (7.2) and my CH was sub 50 (I know it’s a vinyl pool but I have a heat pump and would prefer to gradually get my CH up to manufacture recs) so I added a bit of calcium chloride. These are my numbers as of today. Is there anything I should be doing or let these ride until my FC drops?

pH 7.6
TA 50
CH 80
CyA 70
FC 19
CC .5

Hi guys.

I have a temporary above ground pool. Last year, I believed my sand filter was letting in sand to the pool. I vacuum this to waste but the cycle repeated. I decided to upgrade this year to a much bigger pump and sand filter to replace the less powerful one I also believed to be a broken.

To cut a long story short. I have been having the exact same issue. I started to think it was the sand was too fine or something. I have only in the past days come to terms with what I am seeing is algae and not sand.

I was having an issue with combined chlorine a few weeks ago. I couldnt see any signs of algae, the water was crystal clear. I posted on here and someone suggested i had algae somewhere. Sure enough, i had some puffs of green when i brushed right in the folds where the side wall meets the base of the pool. I slammed the pool, have passed the overnight test and since then have always kept free chlorine on the high limit of ideal…

Dead algae continues to settle on the bottom and there are no sources of algae remaining in the pool. I had to replace the steps so even the ones I have are brand new. There is nothing else in the pool that i havnt scrubbed religiously. My combined chlorine is down to 0.05ppm from being above 1ppm and free chlorine sitting between 5 - 10ppm on any given moment.

The only thing i can think of is a bit mad but the vacuum hose i use to vac the pool. Whenever I submerge the hose to prime it so that there is no air being sucked into the pump, as the water reaches the end there always seems to be a bit of green coming from inside the hose? Is this a thing? If algae can grow in a vac hose and if that is potentially my source of dead algae coming to rest on the bottom, how do i prevent it? What can i do to stop this cycle?

Cheers.

For clarity:

FC: 5.45ppm (lower end just before adding daily dose of chlorine)
CC: 0.05ppm
pH: 8.0 (gradually risen to 8 over the past week, it just does this no matter what)
TA: 75ppm
CH: 207ppm
CYA: 45ppm

This otherwise well functioning vacuum seems to have a design flaw in that it rotates only in one direction that results in its power cable getting twisted and tangled. This prevents its programmed use over the week because subsequently it cannot traverse the whole pool. At this time it requires untangling and removing the twists every other day. I suspect the cable will eventually break because of it.
Edit by Jim R.

Hello,

There seems to be some buildup clogging the “from pool main drain” in the skimmer. The “to pump suction” pipe is clear and sucking.

I honestly don’t know if that to main drain pipe has always been closed with this stuff or is supposed to be closed. My neighbor has a gray plug screwed into that hole which, like mine, has threads. In mine, it feel like there is a build up of something and I was able to use a long screw driver to break through the first couple inches of the “stuff.“ it almost felt like old stabilizer that hardened because it gave off the milkish cloud when scraping it. It was not smooth, and one side was built up a little higher (at first I thought maybe the pool builder filled that hole with concrete or something 7 years ago when the pool was built). But, I also found what looked like rock and sediment after scraping down a but.

(1) Any idea what may be going on where; and
(2) Should that from pool to main drain be capped like my neighbor’s is (Btw I have a dedicated vacuum line elsewhere in the pool if that matters).

Oh, and I discovered this when inspecting the skimmer for leaks after losing 1 and 1/2 inches of water in 18 hours while doing the bucket test.

See pics below:

Howdy y’all-
I have Easy Touch with IC40 Intellichlor.

It’s my understanding that the SWG will automatically reduce its chlorine output when in spa mode. But I’m not seeing that on the IC40 control panel. It stays the same whether it’s in pool or spa mode. I would expect to see the output LEDs flashing to indicate low output mode?

While trying to troubleshoot, I noticed there is no comms cable between the IC40 and the EasyTouch panel- so how would the cell even know what I have set on my automation if it can’t talk to each other?

Any advice is welcome. I have a video of this if it’s helpful. Thank you!

I just finished cleaning our Jandy CS250 filter cartridge for the first time and after starting everything back up I realized I completely forgot to check what psi we’d been operating at up until now. At the moment the pressure is going up to 30 psi on startup and then leveling out at about 19 psi with the pump running at 2800 rpm and all water features on. Is this within normal range? I’ve seen some things saying normal is between 10-25 and others saying 5-20. Thanks!

I have a 20 x 40 liner pool. It's been great when it worked. A nightmare for mist of the time. When it was in working order I used the methods learned here and the water was great. Just got a new liner and hoping for the best

I figured I would post this separately so others can see how I connected it to my 1.5" hard pipe system. It has been setup now for 3 years (only taking it inside for winter) with zero issues. We are upgrading next year to an Intex 12x24. Current equipment used is in my signature. The Hayward pump has the ability to shoot the fountain halfway across the pool. Only issue with that is it also exceeds the pool's overall width.

Installing a Colman 16x10. Have the ground level all vertical supports set on concrete pads. Question is: the center section has a slight downward droop. The pool is about 1/4 full and the droop is still there. What may be causing this problem. Does this go away when the pool is full. Everything is level around the pool. Any ideas on a solution to this issue?
Thanks
JHenry

I own a bullfrog A series just empty the water for the first time and refilled having trouble with the calcium hardness, I think it is causing the chlorine to be nonexistent I am using the silver cartridge and a number two and it is not showing at all on the test strip what am I doing wrong

I just bought a home that has a Pool Frog System and the o-ring on the blue control dial has completely deteriorated and the blue control dial snapped as I tried to pull it out to inspect it. Now I have water that floods out every time I turn on the system to filter.

Please see the pictures and let me know if I can cut it out and run a straight pipe in its place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can not filter the water until this os fixed or sealed.

Long story short, I own a 22 year old pool and just started replacing the Intertech "stuff" with nodejs-poolController. My SAM light is the old skook one with mechanical wheel, and the motor is toast. Is there a reliable replacement to the SAM light that doesn't cost a fortune? I have no problem making a DIY LED light, I'd just prefer to buy something that won't leak or die in a few years, if that is even possible. As best I can tell my SAM light takes 120V in, but is well potted and converts it to 12VDC? If I were to go DIY I'd probably violate building codes here, and while I think the safety risk is something I can manage (I'm an electrical engineer), I really just want something off the shelf in this area that just simply "works", if such a thing "exists". 12v or 24v low current LED is preferred, trying to make house more energy efficient is my primary goal, not singularly focused on pool, yet. All decent advice is greatly appreciated. This may be my first post here. I've been lurking a while. Thanks in advance.

My pool has been clear for most of the summer since opening it. I have noticed that only and everytime I add 12% liquid shock the water goes from being clear to a light greens/blueish color, which I have never seen before in all of the years of having a pool. It seems to clear up after a period of time. I have performed a basic test of the water and have
Cya 10ish
TA 120
ph 7.6 to 7.8
FC 3
tCf 5
Th 150ish
I had attached a picture of the water