I realize states and counties have different regulations for draining pools, but is there a standard plumbing for pool builders? I'm asking because I need to drain my pool, but I don't believe it's tied into our sewer system, which I believe my county requires. The only outlet I know of runs to an underground pipe that terminates at my curb into the gutter which flows into the storm drain. This is what I use to backwash, I've never drained or replaced all of my pool water. I can't imagine running 24,000 gallons down the gutter.

I removed the zeosand from the filter. The Air bleeder tube was just lying in ther sand and is broken on the end which was connected. I can feel a hole on the bottom of the lateral assembly is there where it plugs in? The top part was completely clogged and probably hasn't been operational.

I need to make a main drain valve repair. Pool water level is 8” below skimmer a return. I have air in the main drain . Can I place a 5 gal bucket over the main drain to make the valve repair?

Hey all - i just moved into a home with old jandy equipment that was dying and replaced it with new pentair stuff. I got the intelliflo3 pump with relay control board. Does that mean i can just buy the IC40 itself and it gets wired directly to the relay board on my pump for control. So i dont need to buy a load center to power it or anyting else to control it? I'm seeing somewhat contradicting info about how that works.

Thanks all !

Does anyone have the link for leveling the ground for an above ground steel pool. Is it any different than a vinyl pool? I can’t seem to find what I need, it would be helpful if there was a video. Does that exist on TFP or do I need to look elsewhere? Thank you ALL for your expertise! Have a fantastic Sunday!

I’ve had a sand filter for 10 years with 2 vinyl pools but purchasing a 2 y/o 21’x 52” Marina steel side and feel like now is the time to change over. I’m wanting to research HOW to do this with 100% confidence, and the only place I’ve ever known to get accurate information is here!
I know that I will need a chlorinator, but is there a place to go to tell me how to set it up, what other equipment will I need, do I still use sand in my filter, what chemicals will I be needing, is it going to be easier to maintain, is it going to be cheaper to maintain? Do I need a different testing kit?
I would truly appreciate ANY and ALL assistance with my questions, and thank you so much in advance for your expertise and advice!

Sincerely, the 66 y/o Nana that’s just trying to keep her grandkids happy!

Is there a minimum height above ground for an outdoor pool sub panel? Also, can the sub panel be a disconnect for both the pool pump and the heat pump (using the two circuit breakers) or will they need separate disconnects in addition to the sub panel? Thx

Hello
I have a 15000 gal saltwater pool. It had been covered, not in use for 3 years. Removed the leaves, raised cya to upper 20s, started shocking, and added algecide. Flocked twice, didnt make much difference. This was before I found pool school, pool math app. Started a slam since March 30th. Cya in the 20s says my target is 10 ppm chlorine. I have maintained this pretty well with the exception of all the rain we have been getting. Lowest fc was 6 which I brought back up right away. I have been using 65% cal hypo granules, brushing, and vacuuming almost daily. Water is still cloudy, dark but I can see about 3 ft down. Went to leslies today, just to see how my chemistry looked. Will post results below. I am using the taylor fas dpd test kit for chlorine tests. Anything is should do differently? Seems like clarity progress has stopped.
Fc 6.69 brought up to 11.5 now
Tc 7.87
Ph 7.87
Ta 102
Ch 126
Cya 24
Iron 0
Copper .3
Pho 196
Salt 2616

Appreciate all the early advice on here as I made the transition from new pool startup to saltwater at the 28-day mark following plaster. Happy to report that pool is looking great and everything is largely in balance.

One question: I read in Hayward’s Aquarite manual that with older systems you could input a correction factor so that the SWCG would display the correct saltwater ppm value. I’m using a Hayward OmniLogic-based system with the newer Turbocell S3 (40,000-gal). Have found the chlorination page but seems you can only reset the cell’s lifetime counter or change polarity on the cell…don’t see a way to apply a correction value for saltwater sensing calibration.

In this case, my TFPro-Salt kit is routinely showing 3,000ppm salt but SWCG estimating it at 3,400ppm. Not a huge deal and recognize that TFPro kit is giving me the most accurate result. Just wondering if I can calibrate to bring the new S3 cell inline with test results.

Have to love clean straight lines with a vacuum after opening.
This was the cleanest my pool has ever been opening it after winter. No green algea l, just dirt and sand and some leaves and worms

Hi all,

Spring time and loads of pollen on the surface of my water. Even with my pump turned up to cleaning mode/high speed, the skimmer just doesn't get the tiny bits of pollen off the surface. I read in the forums that a possible solution would be to adjust the valves so that my skimmer is doing more of the work than the floor drains. But I'm not sure which valve does that. Hoping that someone can help shed some light with the attached photos. Let me know if you need a better angle.

Thanks!
Matt

Never used those before, looking to do 0.5 ppm for our 18k gallon pool (see signature), NO MORE than that. Do those come in different forms (solid, liquid), or is it relatively straightforward? Any brands to avoid, any brands you would recommend?

So I have never had an issue like this on my previous pool that had pavers. My brand new build, and my levels keep rising. I have had it tested at a store, using reputable test strips, and my SWG level indicator. They are all withing 3% of each other. I went from 2800 2 mos. ago, to 4600 at its peak 1 week ago, prior to a big rain producing 4 inches of rain. That brought it back down to 3400, but its slowly creeping back up. Wondering if it could be caused by the brand new Kool decking? Its still "shedding" small tiny particles into the pool. They are fine pieces coming off, and you can see them in the pool. My buddy had same issue with the "shedding" its 1st season, then it stopped. Could it be from the Kool deck??? I dont see what else could be causing the increase. Any thoughts?

Last year I stopped using my frog system and went to liquid chlorine only. Pool looked great, and just opened it and there was no algea in it.
For those who went from a frog to liquid, did you leave the frog cycler in or remove it and add a straight piece of PVC.
I just noticed a small drip leak from the outlet side of the frog threads and it looks like the only way to remove it is to cut it out and plumb a piece in.
Only time I used the frog last year was when I went on vacation for 2 weeks and used an old frog pac and just cut it and loaded it with 1" chlorine tabs and it kept my pool FC high enough for those 2 weeks.
Just wondering if people removed it or kept it

Hey I have a zodiac salt water chlorinator and I am wanting to use my pool but am struggling to get everything in check. I have tested using my palin test kit.

Fc 4.2
Fc 4.3
Ph 7.2 and same on my zodiac sensor
TA 120
CYA 2
ORP 580

So I am in a bit of a spiral as my system at 580 keeps on producing chlorine as the lowest set point is 600…

However when I test the water chlorine seems a little high.

I calibrated the sensor and the replaced the sensor and same reading.

Can you help? I am so basic at all of this….

Cheer

Does anybody know the color temperature of the "Alpine White" color from their RGB lights?

This is the only color I use. I don't need RGB and one of my lights is dead. I'd like to replace it with their white 5000k light to save costs instead of RGB, but only if it will match the white setting of the RGB lights.

Hi,

I've had a terrible record with Globrites/Minibrites:

1. The original Globrite(light 1) replaced after 1 year with another Globrite
2. The original Globrite(light 2) replaced with a Microbrite with an adapter.
2. The light 2 Microbrite burns after 10 months, replaced with another Microbrite after some fighting with Pentair
4. After 2.5 years, light 1 burned yesterday.

Presumably, a Jandy Hydrocool light fits the proprietary Pentair Globrite niche fro what I read on this website. Here are my questions:
1. Has anyone went through this replacement ?
2. Is there a white, not color, Jandy ? That's what I'd prefer since my remaining functional light is white.
3. Is Jandy any better than Globrite ?

That's amazing that Pentair can charge $500 per piece of this garbage !

My Dolphin is dead after an almost 4 year run. Great cleaner although the cable gets very twisted after several runs, even though it’s a swivel type. Had to replace the cable last year (60’) and the new one wasn’t better in that regard. Anyone know whether Polaris’ swivel cable is less prone to tangling / more adept at untangling? I’m leaning toward sticking with Maytronics but if Polaris has solved the tangling issue that might sway me. TIA.

just found this site. yes my pool is green, after all the pollen that we got hit with. went to local pool store chain, they recommended shock, didnt work, tried green to clean, didnt work, tried others, didnt work. had water tested with them, they recommended drain half and start again. my routine is clean filter, scrub, add whatever and turn on pump and has been running since. test results from pool store: Free Chlorine-.91, Total Chlorine-.91, pH-6.3, Total Alkalinity-0,Calcium Hardness-107, Cyanuric Acid-222, Iron-0.6, Copper-2.3, Phosphates-669, TDS-800. i have order a TF test kit, delivery next week. Any suggestion for this weekend chore list.
thanks all

So I had a yellowish stain that I originally thought was just algae but it wouldn't brush off. A quick search said it could somehow be iron and to try some ascorbic acid. I chucked some vitamin c tablets on it, but the tablets either stained the pool or made things worse.

Any ideas on what the original stain was or how I can fix the worsened stain.

Here to learn as much as possible to keep the bottom of my pool clean.

I have an Intex 2017 Prism steel frame pool 18x48. My pool has been great and up continuous for 8 years in Chicago weather. I got a bad winter pill and it froze the water and caused this horizontal tear in liner about 8 inches long. It is above the floor seam not on it. Do you think patching would do it or throw it out? The pool is still standing just empty, obviously. Are there good patches for horizontal tears... long ones? It literally looks like someone just took a razor and sliced it. Everything I read talks about holes...not tears or slits. Advice appreciated.

Hi everyone,

So our liner busted this winter and I have to install a new pool as it destroyed our wall beyond repair. Looking for advice. See attached pictures, would it be better or worst to install the pool on top of the foam?? (I.e. wall/rails sit on foam?) Or should the foam be only inside the pool (i.e. wall/rail sit on ground/pavers). Previous pool didnt have foam and is what lead to liner failling.

Was thinking about adding wall foam to the new pool but debating if it's worth it...seems thin... considering installing 1/2" extruded on wall all around...is that a yay or nay? Pool is in sunny area and seem to be getting heat in thru wall just from the sun... adding insulation would reduce that but keep more heat at night... it's a catch 22!!

Didnt have any pavers at the post previously, and one area with a bit of frost heave damage...would pavers help that any or it would still move with frost. Going to dig down that said area and add gravel crusher dust. See picture with circled area... that was my previous base. I will freshen it up before adding the same pool.




Thank you for input

Hello,

I had my pool built last year and so this is my first season opening the pool. My pool company is going to do the opening/summerizing. They recommend I pour liquid algaecide through the loop loc cover 1 month prior to them opening it. Problem is I just realized this now and they are opening my pool on 4/30. Im going to do it asap but hope I didn’t wait too long.

Any recommendations on what algaecide to get and how much? Or can I just get any algaecide and follow the directions? Also, I’m curious why they recommend pouring it through the cover as opposed to just removing a portion of the cover and pouring it in. Is there any reason to pour it through the cover other than it’s just easier to do that?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks as always!

Not how I wanted to start the weekend. I can’t see where it’s coming out of but I assume these have a seal that goes?

Good day. The problem is that the pool pump broke. My old motor is not legal in California. The store said that a new pump with replacement will cost 2000. Tell me which motor I can order so that it fits and connect it myself to the old place. Thank you very much

Need to know what this is called and where i can buy online. Screws in the water outlets and the lil directional caps screw to it.

Hi! My family and I just bought a house with an inground pool. I'm going to handle the maintenance myself. Looking forward to reading and asking questions!

Hello Forum,

I bought a new mx-6 this month. It seems to work OK but I noticed something while looking it over: the "middle engine housing" doesn't seem to fit. Best to explain with pictures, 2 attached.

The housing has a thin plastic piece that circles around the paddles, going between the paddles and lid-hinges. In the attached pics, look at the one with the yellow piece on the left side (the cover's latch). Two stainless screws in the foreground, a single screw further back. Just to the right of the single screw you will see what I am talking about: the piece of plastic is not laying flat. This looks like it is designed to engage the lid when it is closed, aligning the lid for proper sealing. You can press it down with your thumb, and there is no problem closing the lid over it. But I worry that flexing it up/down over time will fatigue the plastic and break it.

The other photo is a view from the front. You can see the same part lifted up a bit (center of pic).

I wondered if others see the same thing in their MX-6s? I just got the thing and can exchange it with Amazon if this is a true defect.

Thank you for any insights or help. PDP

I’m draining my pebbletec pool completely and have black onyx finish. I think it would lighten up after drying but the amount of white that’s showing is making me worry that if they are calcium deposits. Any ideas??