Does anybody know the color temperature of the "Alpine White" color from their RGB lights?

This is the only color I use. I don't need RGB and one of my lights is dead. I'd like to replace it with their white 5000k light to save costs instead of RGB, but only if it will match the white setting of the RGB lights.

Hi,

I've had a terrible record with Globrites/Minibrites:

1. The original Globrite(light 1) replaced after 1 year with another Globrite
2. The original Globrite(light 2) replaced with a Microbrite with an adapter.
2. The light 2 Microbrite burns after 10 months, replaced with another Microbrite after some fighting with Pentair
4. After 2.5 years, light 1 burned yesterday.

Presumably, a Jandy Hydrocool light fits the proprietary Pentair Globrite niche fro what I read on this website. Here are my questions:
1. Has anyone went through this replacement ?
2. Is there a white, not color, Jandy ? That's what I'd prefer since my remaining functional light is white.
3. Is Jandy any better than Globrite ?

That's amazing that Pentair can charge $500 per piece of this garbage !

My Dolphin is dead after an almost 4 year run. Great cleaner although the cable gets very twisted after several runs, even though it’s a swivel type. Had to replace the cable last year (60’) and the new one wasn’t better in that regard. Anyone know whether Polaris’ swivel cable is less prone to tangling / more adept at untangling? I’m leaning toward sticking with Maytronics but if Polaris has solved the tangling issue that might sway me. TIA.

just found this site. yes my pool is green, after all the pollen that we got hit with. went to local pool store chain, they recommended shock, didnt work, tried green to clean, didnt work, tried others, didnt work. had water tested with them, they recommended drain half and start again. my routine is clean filter, scrub, add whatever and turn on pump and has been running since. test results from pool store: Free Chlorine-.91, Total Chlorine-.91, pH-6.3, Total Alkalinity-0,Calcium Hardness-107, Cyanuric Acid-222, Iron-0.6, Copper-2.3, Phosphates-669, TDS-800. i have order a TF test kit, delivery next week. Any suggestion for this weekend chore list.
thanks all

So I had a yellowish stain that I originally thought was just algae but it wouldn't brush off. A quick search said it could somehow be iron and to try some ascorbic acid. I chucked some vitamin c tablets on it, but the tablets either stained the pool or made things worse.

Any ideas on what the original stain was or how I can fix the worsened stain.

Here to learn as much as possible to keep the bottom of my pool clean.

I have an Intex 2017 Prism steel frame pool 18x48. My pool has been great and up continuous for 8 years in Chicago weather. I got a bad winter pill and it froze the water and caused this horizontal tear in liner about 8 inches long. It is above the floor seam not on it. Do you think patching would do it or throw it out? The pool is still standing just empty, obviously. Are there good patches for horizontal tears... long ones? It literally looks like someone just took a razor and sliced it. Everything I read talks about holes...not tears or slits. Advice appreciated.

Hi everyone,

So our liner busted this winter and I have to install a new pool as it destroyed our wall beyond repair. Looking for advice. See attached pictures, would it be better or worst to install the pool on top of the foam?? (I.e. wall/rails sit on foam?) Or should the foam be only inside the pool (i.e. wall/rail sit on ground/pavers). Previous pool didnt have foam and is what lead to liner failling.

Was thinking about adding wall foam to the new pool but debating if it's worth it...seems thin... considering installing 1/2" extruded on wall all around...is that a yay or nay? Pool is in sunny area and seem to be getting heat in thru wall just from the sun... adding insulation would reduce that but keep more heat at night... it's a catch 22!!

Didnt have any pavers at the post previously, and one area with a bit of frost heave damage...would pavers help that any or it would still move with frost. Going to dig down that said area and add gravel crusher dust. See picture with circled area... that was my previous base. I will freshen it up before adding the same pool.




Thank you for input

Hello,

I had my pool built last year and so this is my first season opening the pool. My pool company is going to do the opening/summerizing. They recommend I pour liquid algaecide through the loop loc cover 1 month prior to them opening it. Problem is I just realized this now and they are opening my pool on 4/30. Im going to do it asap but hope I didn’t wait too long.

Any recommendations on what algaecide to get and how much? Or can I just get any algaecide and follow the directions? Also, I’m curious why they recommend pouring it through the cover as opposed to just removing a portion of the cover and pouring it in. Is there any reason to pour it through the cover other than it’s just easier to do that?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks as always!

Not how I wanted to start the weekend. I can’t see where it’s coming out of but I assume these have a seal that goes?

Good day. The problem is that the pool pump broke. My old motor is not legal in California. The store said that a new pump with replacement will cost 2000. Tell me which motor I can order so that it fits and connect it myself to the old place. Thank you very much

Need to know what this is called and where i can buy online. Screws in the water outlets and the lil directional caps screw to it.

Hi! My family and I just bought a house with an inground pool. I'm going to handle the maintenance myself. Looking forward to reading and asking questions!

Hello Forum,

I bought a new mx-6 this month. It seems to work OK but I noticed something while looking it over: the "middle engine housing" doesn't seem to fit. Best to explain with pictures, 2 attached.

The housing has a thin plastic piece that circles around the paddles, going between the paddles and lid-hinges. In the attached pics, look at the one with the yellow piece on the left side (the cover's latch). Two stainless screws in the foreground, a single screw further back. Just to the right of the single screw you will see what I am talking about: the piece of plastic is not laying flat. This looks like it is designed to engage the lid when it is closed, aligning the lid for proper sealing. You can press it down with your thumb, and there is no problem closing the lid over it. But I worry that flexing it up/down over time will fatigue the plastic and break it.

The other photo is a view from the front. You can see the same part lifted up a bit (center of pic).

I wondered if others see the same thing in their MX-6s? I just got the thing and can exchange it with Amazon if this is a true defect.

Thank you for any insights or help. PDP

I’m draining my pebbletec pool completely and have black onyx finish. I think it would lighten up after drying but the amount of white that’s showing is making me worry that if they are calcium deposits. Any ideas??

Hi! I've had an 24 round above ground pool since I moved to this house in 2010. Same pool's probably been here since the 1990's! Replaced the liner once and have had a salt system on it for the past 15 years with no problems. Since the pool is getting unbelievably ancient and I need another new liner anyway, I've decided to upgrade to a Doughboy Summerville with the deep end. Dealer recommends an "Insta Frog" mineral insert for the skimmer basket instead of salt, which would void the pool warranty.

Pool guy recommends against salt generally but thinks I should otherwise keep old equipment and not switch to Doughboy filter / pump. I've really loved the water quality with salt these past 15 years and have had no apparent issues with rust. I've also heard Doughboy does make a pool that is saltwater compatible, but my dealer "doesn't know" and has a Summerville in stock he wants to move. Pool guy recommends NOT getting Doughboy equipment and keeping my old stuff, just replacing pool.

Any advice here?

Anyone know of a saltwater compatible Doughboy model?
Would you keep the old working equipment or get the whole Doughboy package?
Does the skimmer "Insta Frog" work and would it give me water quality as nice (or almost as nice) as I've been enjoying?

I really appreciate the experts weighing in 'cause I'm way out of my depth

We are doing a renovation to our pool that was built in the 90’s that involves adding a spa, new beam, and a gunite step. We noticed that ground water is leaking into the pool through the new gunite in certain areas. The contractor says that this is not a problem and we should proceed to installing the PebbleTec.

I am concerned that the PebbleTec will not hold up correctly in those areas due to water coming in from the outside and I may have a problem after the contractor has been paid.

Any thoughts on my situation based on the posted pictures? Do I move forward with plaster or is this an issue that needs to be immediately addressed?

We are putting up a slide and I need to get about 5 feet right under the concrete deck to the hole I drilled for the water stub. I tried a water wand/power washer but there really is no dirt just the gravel that was put down before the deck. Been hammering pipes under the deck but I've only gotten about 2 feet in 3 days.

Any ideas how to get through 5 feet of gravel that keeps collapsing on itself? Do pros just cut a line in the concrete lay the pipe then patch the cement?

I use PoolMath to help maintain my 455 gallon hot tub. Typically the amount of chemicals I need to add to my hot tub is fairly low—maybe 0.4 ounces of a dry acid, for example. When I look at that entry in the timeline, it rounds to just 0 ounces.

Can the precision be adjusted to show tenths when the number is less than (say) 10?

I have a Hayward HTC-4-ACT-RC controller that has a dead LCD screen. Everything else seems to be working as normal. Just nothing on the display screen. Pool equipment is running like normal and spa side remote still works like normal. Is there a way to fix the screen, or do I need to replace the controll unit assembly with screen, buttons, and small circuit board?
Thanks,
Jeff

I’m using a Pentair EasyTouch system with a solar valve on Valve A and a roof sensor. Everything was working fine with automatic solar control (based on pool and roof temps) until I manually created a circuit labeled “Solar” and assigned it the Solar function in Circuit Functions (failed misguided attempt to assign different pump speed to solar).

Since then, the system won’t rotate the solar valve anymore — even though:

• Valve A is still set to Used Solar
• Pool Heat is set to Solar Preferred
• Solar sensor is active and working
• The manual circuit has been renamed and set to Generic, but the label “Solar” is still stuck at the top of the screen for that circuit

I can’t assign “Solar” to any other circuit (it’s missing from the function list), and I can’t remove it from the one I assigned it to. The valve won’t move at all, so the automation is effectively broken. If I switch to solar it shows it’s “heating” but the the valve doesn’t move and nothing effectively happen.

I literally went through the entire manual to no avail. Looks like some sort of EasyTouch bug where once Solar is assigned to a relay circuit, it can’t be cleared. I want to restore full solar automation without doing a full factory reset.

Anyone else run into this or know a clean fix?

Thanks a lot!

With my Autocover came a Little Giant Pool Cover Pump http://www.lg-outdoor.com/p/apcp-1700?pp=12

Model number APCP-1700, CAT 577301, made by Franklin Electric, Okalahoma City OK. 73112-2935

It had been behaving erratically, turning off during pumping, not turning on when water level raised etc. Yesterday I emailed Franklin Electric, and to my surprise a person knowledgeable in their repair called me back a few hours later. He explained to me what could be happening. First suggestion was that the float had a hole/crack in it, and he gave me the part number to do a warranty claim. I asked about pollen gumming up the works of the switch etc., he advised it could be possible that the magnet the float raises could be dirty, and just need a cleaning. Finally he suggested one other thing to look at, which is a small hole that if blocked could cause "air lock", which didn't fit my description of the problem (he implied it would not work much at all if clogged), but i could check it while i had it taken apart.

First i removed the small round access plate from the bottom of the pump housing. Second i took out the 5 philips head screws holding the blue housing on. Third i removed the pump float (it justs kind of clips in place).



Float had no water in it, and looked fine, allthough dirty. Both sides of the magent looked fine too.





Next i looked for the hole he was talking about, it's dead center of this picture and clogged.

It was also clogged from the back side so i had to remove 4 more screws i think to remove the cover of the impeller to get to the backside of the hole.
When i slide the cover off, it dislodged the debris, and i had my hole back.


Took about 10 mins., and it works perfect now.
Guess i'll have to clean it ever so often, or blow off my cover in the off season more often, so that water and debris don't mix and cause this issue again.

I am hijacking this post from last year, and thankful that I found it.

I've had my pool for a year and just realized that my installer added Heat Pump as speed 7 as well, which results in 2750 speed whenever the heat pump setting is enabled, even when the pool was heated to the correct temperature. I'm sure my electric bill was affected by this.

As this thread suggested, I have removed the "Heat Pump" on speed label 7. Now, once the pool is heated to the set temperature, the pump speed goes down to the "Pool" speed setting, which is 1750.

Prior to the change, in the app, the "Spa Heater" and "Heat Pump" toggles pretty much worked in unison. When one was on, the other automatically turned on, and vice versa. This seemed odd to me.

Assuming that the the Dip switch S1 8 is correctly set to Heat Pump, is there any need anymore to have "Heat Pump" listed under "My Devices" on the app, and if so, is there a way to remove it?

Also, if you see anything else that you suggest changing, please let me know. I am hoping to take over for the pool guy in the next month or so, and my wife won't be happy if I mess anything up.

My IC40 stopped working a few weeks ago according to my alerts. I have finally had a chance to start troubleshooting but I have a feeling that it is in fact dead.

On my ScreenLogic app I am getting the Chlorinator: Communication Lost alert
I have no lights on the IC40
The cord does not show any damage
I have 41 VDC coming from the SWG card out to the IC40

I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting everything a few times now and have reset my EasyTouch a few times as well.

Is this one a goner? Is there anything else I should try?

It looks like I'm in purgatory at the moment since the OG IC40 is discontinued and it doesn't look like anyone has the new PLUS40 available yet.

Has anyone installed the latest design of the Pentair Globrites (grey body instead of black body) and can attest as to whether they last longer than the previous version that is prone to water infiltration?

Additionally, I'm thinking about replacing my failed light with the option below but unsure as to how it would work with an Intellicenter panel. Currently, I can pick colors and programs via the panel.

If I were to choose the below option, from what I understand, it won't interface with the panel to where you can select colors and programs, but you can turn it on/off via the panel to cycle through the different options. Is that accurate? I emailed the company and they mentioned if I have a light switch, you can turn them on/off, but I'm not sure if that applies to being able to turn them on/off via the panel's LCD screen (or associated app).

Hi TFP,

New to the site and new to pool ownership. I attempted to heat up my spa for the first time yesterday and surprise, surprise... no heat.

My Master Temp Heater is connected to an Easy Touch System and a Clean and Clear Plus Filter and Intellichlor chlorine generator (IC 40). I don't know the age of the system. I do know that the heater was assessed as part of the move-in inspection and at the time the unit powered up (i.e. membrane pad and LEDs working), but they didn't assess whether it was actually generating heat.

Anyway, I want to get the heater working, but as a first step would be happy to get back to square 1 with the membrane pad and LED working. Open to any suggestions!

Just replaced my single speed main pump with a Pentair Intelliflo3 3.0 VS. I believe I've configured my OneTouch (OT) correctly and managed to get the pump to turn on, but the rotating display on the OT shows Intelliflo VS 1 (Offline) even though the pump is running. My AqualinkRS is the latest Rev T.2.

Any ideas why it shows 'Offline'?

This is how splash and play pools, in Thornville Ohio, installs a new liner in Ohio’s crazy warm/cold weather. (Not my pool) thought it was cool wanted to share.

I previously had a concrete/fiberglass pool, but recently moved to a home with a vinyl liner pool. How important is calcium hardness in a vinyl pool?

Last season we replaced the laterals and sand in our Heyward filter. We replaced the failed SWG as well and proceeded to SLAM to clear pool after struggling with no SWG. After TWO weeks at SLAM and pool remaining cloudy (as in still couldn't see bottom of deep end), we took the multiport valve back off thinking we may have reinstalled something incorrectly. We didn't see anything wrong with spider gasket or any other assembly so we put it back together; However, something must have been wrong because it started filtering noticeably different in less than 24 hours after being taken apart and put back on and had no further issues the rest of the season. Asking this because it seems like the filter is not filtering properly again. Wondering if there is a common error I'm overlooking before I start buying replacement parts