Howdy! We had our in-ground pool built a year ago and have had zero problems with it since startup. Until early this month...the lower (low pressure) bulkhead fitting on our Triton II TR-100 filter developed a small crack that leaked under higher pressure from the pump. Slowing down the pump stopped the leak, but air would suck in and bubble out the return jets. Builder replaced it under warranty, but commented that ours was the third or fourth one they've seen happen in the area. All on filters that had been installed last year. Same lower bulkhead, same Pentair Triton II TR-100, same crack in the same place on the fitting...

So is this a thing elsewhere in the US?

So in the past, I left my salt water generator cell in line 12 months a year. I’m sure this is a mistake and probably lowers the lifespan. My question is since I’m going to be replacing it can I use the old one as a dummy or can it cause scale or other problems due to pressure drops? If not, I’ll just order a straight through dummy Pipe. They’re not very expensive, but I thought if I have the old generator and it would work I would just use it, thought I would check here. Thx

Pool pump and filter pushing de and filtered material back into inground swimming pool for about 60 seconds upon startup and the pressure gauge drops back down to the same as after backwashing. Pentair FNS Plus 60 fiberglass DE filter. It's doing this even with new O-rings in the valve handle assembly and new filter grids. Valve handle is in down position. Filter pressure is at 10 lb with new de, and it starts this problem at about 15 to 17 lb, after which it drops back down to 10 lb as if it's starting all over again.

Has anyone used a Skim-around all-in-one? Does it work? Need to replace my current basket and looking at different options?

My Aquarite SWG seems to have stopped reading salt levels. Just opened the pool 2 weeks ago. Measured salt level with Taylor K 1766. Added salt to bring level to 3000 ppm. Started SWG, seemed to be reading average salt level correctly at 3000 ppm. Over last week salt reading has dropped first to 2100 ppm 3 days ago, then 600 ppm today. Retested with Taylor and salt level is 2600 ppm. We have had some heavy rains so that is not too surprising that level has gone down.
I Took the following readings from diagnostics.

Aquarite OFF
600
67
33.7
0
54P
-0
-0
1.59
-15

Aquarite Auto
600
67
31.9
.86
54P
-0
-0
1.59
-15

The readings for Auto were right after the click when going back to Auto.

The cell is a T-15 Turbo Cell 940. The cell is 3 years old.

Just to be sure all I would need would be a 3" hose with a clamp to backwash?

Hello! Thanks for a tremendous resource. Slowly but surely starting our pool/backyard. Currently have a old pool with 12+ years on plaster with nice brown tiles. While we plan on new equipment and options I want to find what we have in the ground now with a shovel. I'll be doing most of the work with plumbing. Personally I love the KISS method but at the same time the engineer in me wants to pre-plumb maybe a dedicated spa line etc.
The long plan is adding a overflow spa, ledge, heatpump, bubbler, deck jet gadget coming from bar (undecided). I'd really like to get the piping diagram figured out at this point to see what we have.
Currently leaning Omni PL salt package, heat pro, clean & clear 425sqft, heater bypass?, spa makeup etc

Current pad we did a pump swap a couple years ago.
The pictures of the pipes show 4 pipes underneath the irrigation going towards my skimmer, return and pressure cleaner (not in use) So I can see 3 but there are 4 pipes? Only getting one return to the pad.

Another pic I have 2 pipes heading towards my return across the pool. I assumed one was the return and the other the main drain. Is there a general way "this is how they did it in 79'" ?

quick sketches of our reno
Thanks for looking it over

I just started taking care of my own pool this week. My CYA is REALLY high - - over 100 on my TF pro kit. It was 186 on Monday per Leslie's testing. I put the hose in my pool for 4 hours as instructed and it was 178 the next day. I am on day 4 of filling the pool for 5 hours per da and letting it overflow and my TF pro kit still shows CYA over 100. What else can I do? Should I just let the hose run all night? Run the pump? Don't run the pump? Looking for advice.

Thanks in advance for your help! Glad I took over my own maintenance - - shame on me for paying $200 a month to someone and not double checking my pool chemistry.

Back again (moved away from my parents so pool maintenance went away). Info in my profile by 16000G vinyl pool. Elderly mom didn’t have it covered nor winterized just turned pump on.

She decided a week ago to turn the pump on to clean the pollen/debris off the top which of course stirred up the leaves/debris on the bottom (she did remove some she said).

Have to hunt down my TF100 kit and check regeant age today when I make it back over.

Have basically just backwashed filter/rinsed/ quick backwash daily and scrubbed sides/shallow end.

No way to see the bottom but last time I saw it plenty of leaves etc.

Debating if I want to vacuum it blind or drain 2/3 or so and refill (have landscape irrigation taps so quick to drain and fill) or both vs starting SLAM now with the organics in it.

.

I have an issue where my easytouch control only flashes despite having hit the reset button and entered manual start as well as timed start. I haven't opened the panel yet to see if a comm line is bad, hoping for some insight before I do so. It's set to run 0800-1200 daily and I've never seen it work. I need it to respond.

SLAM is completed! Once I drift down to FC of 10 is that the appropriate time to test salt with the K-1766 and turn on SWG and add salt?

Second question - water temp around 58 brrr degrees - does temp affect the reading?

Thanks!

Hayward TriStar VS-950. Out of warranty. Installed 2018 with new build. To me, it seems as though oscillations are more pronounced recently. Tech who came out to do warranty replacement of Hayward SWG said pump is going out, but I don't want to spend $2500 to replace just the front end (and/or $2000 for the backend)... I am tempted to disassemble and replace shaft bearings and whatever else makes sense and eval from that point..... since I am spending lots of money to repair my 2018 Silverado instead lol... Thoughts?

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I have a TH level of zero. Added 6 oz dry acid all at once ( oops) and FC and TC turned a very dark brown. I finally drained the tub and refilled it.
Is there a Hot Tub Chemistry for Dummies available?

I popped the cover and threw in the robot and ended up with this. I poured some Muriatic acid on a pile of it and boy did it bubble. Are there any steps I should take?

Hi all,
I’m located in Georgia and planning to build my own pool as an owner-builder. I’m curious if anyone here has gone through this process in Georgia? If so, how did you go about finding reliable subcontractors?

Also, are there any existing threads or resources that walk through the entire process step by step?

Lastly, I’m considering hiring a pool consultant to help guide me through the project and connect me with subcontractors. Any recommendations on how to find one?

Thanks in advance for any tips or insights!

Hi everyone,
My pool has been running four seasons and I have just realized my filter pump is capable of flow control, an Intelliflo VSF. I have an EastTouch controlling the pump, all setup by the pool contractor. This controller does not support "flow" (gpm) control, only "speed" (rpm). If I wanted to control the "flow" I can do it through the pump interface panel and just disconnect the comms to the EasyTouch. No problem, I can handle that. I will be installing a Circupool SWCG soon and want to know what you guys think of controlling it. The easiest, by far, would be to leave the pump control to the EasyTouch and just power the SWCG from the contactor in the EasyTouch panel. Would "flow" control benefit me in any appreciable way? Other than being kinda neat. I may be way overthinking things, but a closed loop control system is better than an open loop, especially if the equipment is already there. Any ideas on a good method to control this system with the above mentioned equipment?

I was curious to see if any of the members had any issues relating to the app not functioning recently. Today is I'm on my route I'm trying to plug in info for my customers and it will not allow me to stating that I need to upgrade to a premium membership. The only issue with this is that I'm already a paid premium member and can't figure out how to work around this. I have emailed the admins but I was curious to see if anyone else had had this issue. Best wishes to all and thanks to each and everyone of you.

I have a Hayward Sp0583sl pool light and put it a new led color changing bulb while getting the pool set back up.

Idk where it went or what happened, but the screw that holds the light fixture into the niche, came up missing.

I put in a screw that fit perfectly to keep it in place, but do I really need to spend $20.00 for a replacement screw? The price I found, which I’m not even sure will fit lol

What are the screws actually “called” or referred to as?

& can I find one locally home depot/lowes possibly?

& I see the screw I used temporarily is already starting to rust. Will it be ok until I get a replacement or should I pull the light out and leave it on deck until I get it.

Oh and will any brand of light fixture screw work on it? Or do I need to be 100% certain I get a Hayward one as opposed to Pentair or whatever?

Pool was built last year and I’ve noticed a fine separation between the cantilever concrete coping and the liner track. That I assume is expected but in some areas it’s wider and separated like in the pic below. Is this expected to see if there is movement with the pool deck or does this indicate a problem? I’m contacting the pool builder this week to see what they say but wanted to ask here as well.

I'm back! I think it's time to replace my Dolphin Nautilus Plus pool cleaner. A couple of years back, I was having issues with the cord tangling, and rather than purchase a new cleaner, I ordered an after-market cord, which was OK. However, that cord is now tangling.

I purchased the cleaner new in October 2017, so I've gotten my money's worth. It still works well; I just don't have the patience to deal with the cord and don't want to go the replacing the cord route again.

I like the cleaner; they still make it, but with WiFi, which I don't think I'd ever use (I wonder if I can get it cheaper without the WiFi). But before I pull the trigger on another Nautilus Plus, I decided to research and see if there's anything better out there. My AI assistant came back with these units ranked from best to "worst":
1 - Dolphin Nautilus CC Supreme
2 - Aiper Sucba S1 Pro
3 - Dolphin Explorer E50
4- Beatbot AquaSense Pro

I did look at the Aqua Products EVO 604 and it looks cool, but similar to the Nautilus.

Does anyone have any thoughts on any of these over another Nautilus Plus? I do like the cordless option, but it's not something you must have over a cord.

Thanks for any input you provide!

Here in the Phoenix area I am no longer finding the higher strength acid and the 14% is priced at nearly $16 gall., compared to the $18-$19 I had been paying for the 34%.
Are they hoping people don't read the labels? Is this the same in other parts and when or if will the higher strength become available?

Anyone have experience with stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DR2TFCHY
?

I have the opportunity to get enough of these for free. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this stuff.

Hello. I recently installed a Zodiac M6 Elite. I also installed a valve to switch from the skimmer to the dedicated port on my pool. I've got everything functioning as expected and I currently have it setup to show on the feature tab. However, I'd like to be able to prevent the pool motor from going above a certain flow (24gpm) when that feature is enabled to prevent too much flow through the cleaner and damaging it. Most likely to happen is for someone in my family turning on the water feature, which runs at 55gpm, or Pool High, which runs at 60gpm. I will certainly try to train my family not to turn those on when the cleaner is enabled, but is there a more bulletproof way of setting it up in the configuration? I've read through the manual several times and have went through all screens of the ScreenLogic Configurator and nothing is jumping out as a way to do this.

Wazzup, about to build a deck for AGP. I can’t find a straight answer in regards as to where to install decking. Most common answer has been below with a small gap for winter cover. I’m worried about the coping getting damaged. Just looking for ideas/thoughts etc. also I’m starting construction in the morning. Any immediate answers are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ok
Pool is finally drained, scrubbed with pool brush & rinsed.

Trying to decide if I should attempt to
1.) Power Wash
2.) Acid Wash
3.) Stain treatment I have Aquadex 50 stain off, plaster white & brihte and pool chlorine liquid bleach & Muriatic acid. I know not to mix them up just listing options I have lol

Idk how old the pool surface is but we’ve had it for 13 years. I attached some pics of pool. There are multiple spots from tablets being thrown in by fiancé when I was out of town.

There’s a little plaster damage around the step area but that’s it. No other cracking or chipping. The plaster has stains or discoloration on it that we’d like to get rid of if possible.

I dont want to risk damaging the pool and I guess we can live with the discoloration if it could be harmful to do any type of treatment due to age or condition of it currently.

Thoughts? Questions?

I have a 4 year old Pentair Prowler 930, which is the same as a Maytronics active. During the week I noticed it would turn on, go backwards about 3 feet then stop.

I tried troubleshooting last night and it seemed to be the cheap plastic gears that connected the motor to the wheel were going bad. This morning I took it to the local pool store (Pinch a penny) who is a Maytronics dealer. They were helpful and replaced the gears and one of the wheels, for under $25. It was a great deal since the $3 parts all had $15+ shipping so would have cost me a whole lot more to DIY.

Unfortunately, when I put it in the pool it didn't move at all. Back to the pool store I go and they figured out the wheel had changed and was getting hung up on the cosmetic cover. They removed it and everything turned as it should have, then they did the out of water self diagnostics. It powered on and then perpetually ran backwards, never switching to forwards, nor sensing it was out of the water. Their diagnosis is that it needs a new $500 motor. That seems silly to spend on a 4 year old unit with the original power cord which appears to be cracking and aging.

What say you TFP?
1. Any thoughts on the robot issue? Is it really the motor issue if its not switching forward? I plan to finish up yard work and then grab a drink, tools, and take the thing apart and see if I can see anything obviously wrong. Maybe I'll be able to get lucky, but not likely unless its just dumb luck.

2. If I do need a new one, there seems to be a huge price difference in cleaners and some newer brands on the market. Pinch a Penny has a cordless Polaris for $1,100. If I have to spend that then so be it, but in my quick research Walmart has a few Aiper models for $400-$700 and Amazon has the Wybot C2 for under $500. I'll do some research later tonight assuming I'm not successful in #1 but figured I would ask here and see if these unfamiliar to me brands are just as good as the Polaris/Maytronics ones.

been trying to download pool math on my pc it continues say download is not available at this time was able to download on my phone. Not sure if I am doing something wrong. any help would be great thank you in advance.

I’m reaching out for your expert guidance regarding issues we’re facing with our in-ground swimming pool. We live outside the U.S. and are unable to arrange for an in-person inspection, but we’d greatly appreciate your remote assistance or insights.

Pool Construction:​

• Reinforced with steel bars
• Built using gunnite cement
• Final coating is aggregate pool finish containing river pebbles combined with portland cement-based pigmented plaster

Current Problems Observed:​

1. The pool coating has started to soften and deteriorate—it can be peeled off easily by scratching it.
2. Brown iron-like stains are coming through the coating and are now visible on the pool walls.
3. Minor surface cracks have also developed in the coating.

We suspect this may be due to age, water chemistry, or deeper waterproofing or rebar-related issues. We're attaching photos and a short video to better illustrate the condition.

Our Request:​

Could you kindly advise us on the following:

• What could be the root cause of this deterioration?
• Are we dealing with a surface-level finish problem or potential structural/rebar corrosion?
• What is the recommended DIY repair method for this kind of damage?
• Do we need to strip all the cement coating?
• Advise which two component pool coating to use, as a cost efficient solution.
• Any steps to temporarily maintain or slow further damage before full renovation?

We’re open to all advice



Thank you very much in advance for your help and time. Looking forward to your recommendations!

Hi everyone,
Just wanted to get input as far as how often you test your water when you first open the pool and nobody’s swimming yet. Do you still do it daily even when it’s way too cold and it’s early spring? Just wondering. Thank you!

I have taken over pool maintenance at our house. I was following Clorox strip recommendations for a little over a week, was spending way too much money on chemicals without seeing the progress I wanted. I then started reading about SLAM on Trouble Free Pool. I started SLAM and have been using the Pool Math app since Friday night.

I still have the Clorox strips and have been using them (the legit kit is coming) as I realized the strips aren’t as accurate. The strips say my Free Chlorine is 10 and Total Chlorine is 0. Is that possible?

It’s pouring rain this morning but here are pictures I’ve taken.

Photos: 10 days ago (before starting Clorox strips/recommendations); 2 days ago (before starting SLAM/pool math app)