ajw22 said:

The lower the better.

I want to get an idea how dirty it may be.

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Just checked it and the speed is 1700 rpm.
0 psi and the pump basket had lots of air bubbles in it and not full of water. Lots of flow out of the returns in the pool and good suction at the skimmer. Shut it down and checked the pump strainer and it was clean.
Fired it back up and the pressure went to 11 psi in prime mode and dropped to 0 again when the pump dropped to 1700 rpm.
No air bubbles in the pump strainer and completely full of water and I bled the air out of the filter.

I'm sure he did. If the water is moving, it's being filtered. But the PBs never have to pay your electric bill for you, so they just pick an arbitrarily high # of turnovers for you to achieve. If the # is high enough, it doesn't matter how much environmental debris blew in the pool, they were right. But that's only a week or three in the spring. Then you go most the summer needing very little filtration before it increases in the fall again.

The invoice of $5,000–$6,000 per month covers "pool supplies and daily checks," with $2,650 allocated for "pool supplies and daily checks", and the remainder for "pool supplies". This amount does not include any repairs or equipment costs. The pool opening cost was $10,000, and the closing cost was $1,400.

Mdragger88 said:

I too suspect ground heave.
The crease at the bottom of the wall and busted bottom track tells the tale. Its just something that happens sometimes. Mother nature.
The only thing you can do to try to prevent it is keep water away from the pool by diverting run off & ground water with drainage.
Even If you can find the bottom track you don’t really want to put the creased wall back. It will be weak in that spot.
You will need to disassemble the entire pool to replace the bottom track. Buying and shipping a new wall, track & liner will likely cost the same as a whole new pool package.
After all the water is out and you remove the liner you can assess the damage again and maybe add a repair panel if it’s just that one bent area but I would strongly consider & prepare for replacement.

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Very solid advice thanks you. Patiently waiting for the ice to melt so I can fully assess the damage. Not looking forward to replacing the pool if that’s what it comes to.

Newdude said:

Why do you run medium

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Newdude said:

Why do you run medium speed ?

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Well I’m assuming the pool gets more turnover when I run it at medium speed, thus creating better filtration? I remember my PB told me something along those lines.

Why do you run medium speed ?

Jimrahbe said:

Ago,

Why do you do this??? What is your goal?

You just need to find the speed that keeps your flow switch on..

Thanks,

Jim R.

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I run the pump for 12 hours on low just to keep the water moving. It’s cheap enough that I don’t notice a giant spike on my water bill.

Wait. There’s no need to rush.

Also, I highly recommend that you make sure your pool has an independent suction port like how it would be designed if you used a suction side vacuum. It can be added now to the design and it shouldn’t cost all that much extra (it’s just some extra PVC pipes and a valve) . Every pool, EVERY POOL, should have the ability to run a manual vacuum head without having to plug one into the skimmer. Robots and cleaners are great but they break and manual vacuuming is sometimes quicker and easier than rolling out the robot. It’s certainly your call, but I have always appreciated being able to manually clean my pool even when using robots or suction cleaners.

/rant-off

You definitely want a 3 way diverter so you can vac to waste, otherwise half goes back in the pool. Also, draining will take a little longer with a T.

Newdude said:

*after the rain.

I manipulate the weather with my pool water level. If i want a big storm to fizzle out before it gets to me, I lower before and *poof*, I have to add water. If I want us to get a ton of rain because the grass needs it, I leave the pool full and *poof* i need to drain 6 inches. #lifehack. #Murphysucks.

My PB gave me a 3 way between the pump and cartridge filter for draining on my first pool before I knew anything about anything. I didn't use it often but when I did it really really came in handy. It's also great for vac to waste after big storms (kill 2 birds lowering the pool and getting rid of the crud) or heavy cleanup in the spring after slacking or being closed for the winter.

But yeah. It was high on the priority list for pool #2 after moving.

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Do you think I need something like a Jandy 3 way valve for that, or can I just use a T, with a valve on the drain side only?

Bperry said:

Prices going down in an inflationary market is something to look into.

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Likely just a matter of the sg pro was thier flagship model 3 generations ago and has been knocked off the top rung by the s1 series

Exhaust gas temperature limit:

The exhaust gas temperature limit monitors the flue gas temperature above the heat exchanger and trips if temperature rises high enough to indicate that the heat exchanger has been damaged and is no longer transferring heat to the pool water effectively.

If this limit trips, effort must be made to rectify the situation that has damaged the heat exchanger.

This is generally due to low water flow, poor water chemistry, or a combination of these and other factors.

Replace the limit as well as the heat exchanger before operating the unit again.

Running the unit without replacing the heat exchanger after this limit trips could damage the entire unit and will not be covered by Hayward’s warranty.

To replace the exhaust gas temperature limit:

1. Turn pump, gas supply, and heater power “OFF”.

2. Remove the upper end cap on the header side of the unit (see Figure 8).

3. Unplug the two wires from the exhaust gas temperature limit located in the flue collector panel above the middle of the header.

4. Unscrew the (2) screws securing the limit to the panel and remove the limit and gasket.

5. Place the new limit and gasket in place and reverse the above steps to complete the procedure.

Call Marina Pool and Spa. They can give you the best recommendations based on your needs, they keep up on all the models. They have been good to TFP members. Oh, and because they are brick and mortar, you get the full warranty.

As for dust/dirt, you might find a model with "fine filter" option to be best for you...

[email protected]
303-985-0077

SeaLake said:

$5,000 to $6,000 per month

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$5000 per month.
-400$ CPO Certification
-600-1000$ for inspection prep and pool inspection.

Leaves $3600-4000 / month in maintenance.
$120-133 / day.
$60-65 per visit, if twice a day.
Not sure how they make much money at that rate.
Does the 5-6K include all other maintenance expenses (pool pump repair etc.?)?
Does the expense include all the chemicals?
Does the maintenance company take all the liability of non-compliance...that alone may be worth the expense...

We put ours obnoxiously front and center to see it all the time. I was worried about the dogs falling through the ice the couple of times it freezes each year so we got a safety cover. The dogs were ripping the brand new cover so I had to safety fence the area to protect the cover which was meant to protect the dogs.

Not only do I want to enjoy looking at the pool, I really really want to stop looking at the keepaway9000.



I hear ya.

That’s a great idea to start around April especially if there’s any issues. It’ll be the earliest I ever opened my pool. Use to do it first week of June (before the heater) But I want as much time with the pool as I can get!!

Yeah I have drainage close to the pad, I'll throw a 3 way valve after the pump and before the filter for draining purposes.

Tough call. You can install a standalone SWG like a saltron but it'll be a couple/several hundred versus what you were paying. It's still probably cheaper than a whole new system though, so there is that.