I replaced the entire wall unit UWF + relief valve and works like a champ now

For some reason the image of the original plumbing won’t upload. This one is from a long time ago and a different angel but you can there was another pipe below the return line. Disregard the red circle. That’s from an earlier repair. Do you think the two pipes to one pipe is the problem?

The latest picture shows suction is from both skimmers and the main drain. The spa suction is closed off.
The return is to the pool side but also the spa valve (on the pool return side) is open so flow should be going to both pool and spa.
Not sure if this is before or after repair photo.
Based on what is shown - the spa should be in overflow mode.

Hey my thread is now "Featured". I guess this is my 15 minutes of fame? I always wondered if that saying was true. Also never would have guessed it would happen on a swimming pool forum.

Sorry for delay. I just had a chance to go back there. I think something with gravity is going on? He removed two pipes and replaced with one. This morning when the pump was on, the spa started to drain when it’s supposed to overflow. I attached I picture of the before set up (where the leak was) and the after shot. And the spa while the pump was running. The spa ALWAYS overflows when the pump is on. I used to hate it but it’s been my tip off that something is wrong every time ha. Does he just need to come back and replace w

Agree with @Rocket J Squirrel on all parts.
Take a picture of your equipment, especially the suction side pipework and maybe we can give you some ideas to check.

Thanks all, the pool temperature has made it to 76 degrees with some help from the 70s weather and the pool heater fan is running and the light indicating run is turned on.

My question- do you only get condensation out of the bottom when it’s trying to warm the pool from the 60s to low 70s?

Do you think 76 degrees pool temperature is hitting the max this older heater will support ?

Try


Also maybe @Michael z has some feedback for you.

Thanks, I have searched and read a lot of reviews here. I just couldn't find anything that said if you could map two different locations.

I think you are asking a lot from the current state of technology whether it is battery operated or corded. Battery operated Aquasense and Aiper are 2 that are reviewed a lot on this forum. Just search.
some do map but none that I am aware of have the iRobot technology to stop at at a drop off which you desire for the shelf.
Also some do better at wall cleaning then others but none (corded or battery) really go up on stairs
Others may chime in with additional thoughts but there is much more feedback if you search for the specific robots on the forum.

I'm an engineer and always heavily research any significant purchase I'm about to make. installing solar panels simply doesn't make sense. Most solar systems are in excess of $20K. The ROI is in excess of 25 years, and in that time any number of things can happen. You can have equipment fail, damage from a storm, need the roof replaced, or you may even move. And having solar will not increase your resale value.

Some quick things to know that installers won't tell you:

• Panels lose 10-20% of their effectiveness in the first two years of use. Calculations should always be made using 80% output, not 100%.
• If you need your roof replaced, you'll have to pay to have the solar panels removed, and then pay to have them replaced. Some roofers will offer this service at a fee, but many won't.
• The power has to be fed into your power company's grid - it doesn't go directly to your home. You sell power to them, then buy it back to use it.
• Check to see if your power company is a co-op. It if is, they don't have to buy the power at the same rate as they sell it. Non co-op's have regulations in place so they have to pay the same as their sell rate. In my case, I have a co-op. They charge me $0.12 for electricity but only pay $0.09 to buy if from me.
• There is usually a fee to belong to a co-op power company. In my case it's about $30/month or $1/day.

Welcome!

As far as not turning on... if it is totally dead take a look at the GFCI and/or the circuit breaker for the tub as it may have tripped. For my tub I had a circuit breaker in my electrical box feeding the GFCI. It went bad once and had to be replaced.

For some reason (might the a placebo effect) I find that the Doheny stuff lasts longer. I would think that CYA is CYA but it just seems to be better for me.

Rocket J Squirrel said:

Your question is unclear. Are you considering photovoltaic or thermal panels? Photovoltaic will provide electric power to your house. Thermal will provide heat to your water. Both depend on the weather, of course. Do you have an electric heater for the pool, i.e., a heat pump?

Click to expand...

Photovoltaic, providing electricity to the home.

I currently do not own a heater for the pool, and I’m wondering if solar panels would offset the cost.

Ie
(Fake numbers) A heater costs $90/month, but with solar panels it runs on the energy my home would already be harvesting.

Welcome to TFP! When it comes to the trio of Intex/Coleman/Bestway, sometimes they are interchangeable, but that's not guaranteed. Looking at several old threads, it could depend on the parts that were sourced at the time the pool package was put together, so you might need 1.25" or 40mm (closer to 1.5"). Here is one link that may help.

Amazon - 40mm

@Mdragger88 any other thoughts?

Mine was doing the same thing. Similar unit, pentair SE. I shared this info in my thread last year to share with others.

Did not want to replace or order the entire motor unit. Contacted someone on Ebay and shipped the individual motor that was not working and turn around time was quick. Brushes were very worn when I opened the motor. Did not know enough to do it myself. See if he can help you.
Also, check the inside of the gear on the motor side that runs the tracks. First time I had issues with mine it was this worn gear.
POOL BOT MEDIC- eBay

Turbo1Ton said:

I thought "how nice of Pentair to include the lifecycle reduction tool in the kit"

--Jeff

Click to expand...

Ha, ha, that was my first [cynical] thought, too! Along those lines:

It speaks volumes about Pentair "engineers" that it took them all these years to finally figure out the LED should be labeled "Chlorinating" instead of "Cell." It feels like one of them finally got a pool!!

But hey, we'll take what we can get. This is a significant upgrade from my IC40, so credit where credit is due. And they chose to make these drop in replacements, they could have easily gone another way. Great job Pentair, and thank you so much @Skenn81 for this awesome review.

I have the dreaded "zero salt" problem with my latest IC40, though it's still generating. Same failure my first one had. Time will tell if this upgrade is just "prettier," or if it addresses some of the other problems the IC has had, especially that awful flow switch/salt reader combo. [Back to cynical mode!]

I’ve seen in the past with app upgrades that the heater got dis-associated from the spa/pool circuits.

In this case the heater was still associated with both pool & spa circuits but it didn’t get power at all.

Are the heaters in series or in parallel?

Do you want the heat and cool functions?

Do you need to control it from the Intellicenter?

Can you control it from the heater control panel?

Why are you mixing brands?

It is usually better to keep all equipment in the same brand if possible especially for automation.

While under 3.02 did you confirm that the heater was still associated with the pool/spa circuits? If you where on 1.064 prior to the upgrade, like 2.x, 3.04 was a pretty significant re-architecure that could have tweaked with configuration.

Bypass Operation.

The heat pump may be controlled by a remote thermostat.

Disconnect power to the heat pump before removing any panels.

Use a proper outdoor rated 22 AWG cable (20 AWG for runs over 30 ft) for the connection from the thermostat to the heat pump.

Route the cable through appropriate knockouts making sure they are not shared with high voltage wiring.

Connect the thermostat cable to the “Remote On/Off” terminal.

After the thermostat cable is fastened and secure, refasten the panels.

Follow the steps on the next page to enable bypass operation.

Use the UP and DOWN keys to select bypass operation mode “0” (bypass operation disabled) or “1” (bypass operation enabled).

Once the desired modeis selected, wait 2 seconds for the selection to be saved.

NOTE: when bypass operation is enabled, the main interface will display “bo” and no heater operation will occur until bypass operation is disabled.

Parameter settings can still be changed.