Thanks for the info @PoolStored. Results of Overnight Chlorine Loss Test...
9:00PM FC: 8.5 ppm
5:30AM FC: 7.5 ppm

Unfortunately, being a 1.0 ppm difference and comparing to Loss Test instructions, this does not indicate an obvious next step. Considering that repeatedly cleaning is not helping, I will try the SLAM process. Thanks again.

Thanks to everyone that replied!!! I do like to learn as much as I can as things come up for me. Easiest thing at this point is when the gas tech comes out to look at my heater and assess the issue I'll just ask him. Again, i'd only consider it if it's a marginal difference in cost versus a straight swap for the 260k BTU.

HermanTX said:

It is best to always run the SWCG while the pump is on.
some like to run 24 hrs and produce a little chlorine at a time throughout the 24 period
Others may run the pump for 10 hrs (example only) but the SWCG is on the full time the pump is on.

If you have Pool Math app, go to top left (hamburger menu) and select Effects of Adding. Ensure the pool volume is accurate, then select your SWCG model. Pick either pump run time or % output or desired FC to be calculated and put data in for 2 of the 3 which solves for the 3rd.

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Thanks! I set the t cel at 5 but i could do 3, output at 30 is about 1 a day.i’ll monitor and see. I think i screwed up FC test yesterday. But i am now clearer on swcg lol

Did not pass the OCLT. I also decided to check my CYA again after reading the page on here on how to do it. It's much more descriptive than the sheet that came with the test kit. I've been using 40 as my CYA but this morning it tested at 50. I know CYA won't just go up, so I'm assuming I've been doing my SLAM at a slightly lower than required FC level.

Also I've been brushing and vacuuming daily and every day there looks like new dirt on the bottom. I assumed this was environmental stuff because we've had a lot of storms recently, but is that just dead algae? The pool seems clear and all ladders and steps are out and I brush walls, skimmers, and weir doors inside and out. If that is algae dying off I guess not seeing that anymore is a good sign when it happens?

PaulieR said:

I feel like I have no choice but to switch to filter balls, even though they don’t do as good a job as sand, as my last resort.

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Unless you feel like trying another brand of sand where perhaps the grains are slightly larger. But I suspect you aren't thrilled about all the heavy lifting - again.

Ugh, had a bad day today, pool-wise. I can't imagine this happening to anyone else, but I'll share anyway, just in case. As it turns out, I am not superhuman after all. Sorry to break it to you.

Because I cannot clean my filter cartridges without getting completely drenched, head to toe, I stall this nasty chore until the first hot day in Spring. Well, today was it, we hit 102°! So I readied my pad for the filter purge by first creating a towel dam between my filter's plug and a drain I'm lucky enough to have in the middle of my pad, like so:



Getting at the plug is frustratingly awkward, but I was getting it loose, slowly but surely. If any of you have done this, you'll remember the force and volume of the water released when that plug comes free. Unfortunately, I didn't. As the water came flooding out, I reacted to how it was pushing the towel dam out of place. I reached to hold it down and lost track of the plug. That's all it took. By then, the water was draining down the hole, creating a decent suction. The flood waters took hold of the plug, steered it right to the drain (Dang dam), and the drain sucked it right down. I barely had time to register what happened, and no time at all to even try and reach for the plug. Swoosh, it was gone.

Some amount of swearing and stomping around and flashlighting later revealed the truth. It wasn't going to be a challenge to retrieve it from some crook in the drain piping, no, it was probably already at the sewage treatment plant by then. So I went inside, ordered a Pentair replacement for delivery May 14 - May 16, and a knockoff from Amazon that might arrive as early as Monday. The knockoff didn't get great reviews, or I'd have ordered two, so I went OEM instead but got the cheapie one, too, because it could get here sooner. Oh well, lesson learned, and I'll only be down tomorrow (unless USPS gets involved, that is).

So I'll use tomorrow to do the drain I need to do, to lower my CH a bit. That would have cost me a day of pumping anyway, so this will all work out well enough. I'll use my backup sump pump to drain some water, then use it to circulate some liquid chlorine until the new plug gets here.

Takeaways:

- I try to convince people to have a spare sump pump on hand for pool pad shutdown emergencies. Well... here's a great example of why. There are limitless reasons you might lose your pad functions for some number of days (or weeks), even for something as unforeseeable as this!

- Every plumber or DIYer knows NOT to work above a drain without making sure you can't drop anything you're working on into it. Duh!! (How many times do I have learn this?!)

- Since all it takes to shut down your pool pad for a few days is losing or mangling your filter plug, maybe having a back up in stock is prudent. I'll have one now.

That all said, I did get my filters cleaned. It was surprisingly easy. They had a lot of particulate gunk, but nothing staining the media, it all rinsed off, with just water, as fast as I've ever done it. And my new filter washing stand extender worked better than expected. A few of you might remember this post, from last year. I fabricated the extender after I cleaned the filters last year, so I didn't get to test it out until today! It worked really well, and made this back-breaking chore much less back-breaking.

As I've mentioned before, I'm not going to let my CH rise year after year, and only fix it after it becomes unmanageable, by draining half my pool. Instead, I'll drain just a few inches once a year, every year, to keep my CH more stable and to keep from having to empty my pool lower than I need to. Stay tuned for tomorrow's installment of "Oh Geez, What Did Dirk Do This Time!?"

Uhhello said:

You have that as a copy/paste template don't you

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Nope.

@PoolStored has you covered. Follow each of his instructions to the letter.

mjrogers said:

so for now I have to guess using the comparator block. Maybe I'm just really bad at matching the comparator block colors.

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Regarding pH testing, this is what works for me. The Taylor pH test (comparator) is one of the easiest tests to perform. You can trust it 100%, and its results are not a guess. If you're having trouble comparing colors, try these tips:
- Find a color neutral source of light (I use white, under-counter LED lights), and a stark white card (like a 3x5 recipe card). Hold the comparator under the light(s) in one hand, and the white card in the other hand. Tilt the card such that the LED light bounces off of it and shines through the back of the comparator. Adjust the position of the comparator and the card, relative to each other and the light source, until the colors "come into focus." You'll know it when you see it.
- That should help a lot. If the colors still don't seem to match, try using four drops of R-0014 instead of five. This will lighten the colors a bit. I find that this "adjusted" color matches my comparator much better.
- If you're still struggling with finding the exact match, try this. After filling the side with pool water and adding four drops, mix gently. Focus on only one comparator color block, start in the middle. Don't look at the other colors for now, just compare the one color to the pool water. Ask yourself, is the pool water more orange than the color block, or more magenta. If more orange, focus on the next block down and ask the same question. If more magenta, focus on the next block above. Repeat this process until you cannot see that the pool water is more orange or more magenta than the block you're focused on. That block's pH number is the result.

Sometimes this orange/magenta comparison leaves you between two blocks. For example, more magenta than 7.4 but more orange that 7.6. That's fine, your pH is 7.5!

With a little practice, you'l be able to quickly dial in your pH number. Faster and more reliably than a pH meter. No batteries. No calibration. No fumbling with an electronic gizmo.

Now if none of that works, it's possible you've got a touch of color blindness. Some people cannot use a comparator because all the colors look the same. If that's the case, you've got two choices: figure out the pH meter, or have someone else in the household help you with the comparator.

PoolStored said:

Until your pool is clear. Like this-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
And your Overnight chlorine loss is <= 1. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Follow the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process

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You have that as a copy/paste template don't you

Until your pool is clear. Like this-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
And your Overnight chlorine loss is <= 1. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Follow the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process

Let's start here.

1. For now, until you learn your pool, CYA of 40 is just fine. Don't change it.
2. Chlorine is King. Use the FAS-DPD (R-0870 powder and R-0871 reagent) to test FC and CC. Use a 10mL sample, each drop is .5 FC and .5 CC. Don't use the comparator for FC testing.
3. When you chlorinate, your target FC is based on your CYA level. Use this tool (link), with your 40 CYA to determine your FC target. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
4. Your goal, for now, is to be at the top of the FC range, WHEN YOU TEST. If you have to dose above range, so that when you test you are in range, do that.
5. Your Ph and TA are just fine. Don't worry about TA unless it is below 50. Just maintain a pH of 7.6-8.0 and you will be just fine. Don't lower pH until you see purple hues, and then only lower to 7.8. You will be great.

Do this for now, and maintain your FC for a bit before you raise CYA.

Texas Splash said:

Hummm. I'm not familiar with that brand, but if it's worked for you in the past, you would think it should still be good. With all the repetitive tear-downs and inspections you've done, I don't see how sand is making past the laterals into the pool.

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Yeah I am lost !!! Usually the culprit would be a broken lateral, but I have double checked that, the sand level is fine, I put exactly 121 lbs of sand as per manual, level is just above minimum on the upright. Tried a different multiport valve as I have 2 of them, and same result.

I originally had a 12” tank 1500gph pump with no issues, decided to upgrade cuz my tank had a crack and leaked and now have all this sand in the pool.

I feel like I have no choice but to switch to filter balls, even though they don’t do as good a job as sand, as my last resort.

For the autofill, i found the equation for evap and with the cooler water, high air temp, and strong winds the pool lost about 627 gallons of water...

Test strips are horrible. I think you'd be able to find a better drop-based test kit. HTH 5-Way or 6-Way maybe? With an indoor pool, your most critical tests will be FC and CC.

starr1005 said:

Started the tear off!View attachment 644455View attachment 644455View attachment 644456

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Well this just made me understand your first post. I was all "where the heck is the pool?"

--Jeff

Cool And thanks for the info! Sure will check the GFCI too.