I see a union in the upper right of the photo so this now looks easier than the first look I had. Take the union apart and that will let you turn and unscrew the 90 and extension from the pump out of the pump. Resealing the threaded portion might be possible with teflon tape or pipe dope but others will need to confirm this.

How is the multiport on the top of the filter set?

We still need full pics.

ajw22 said:

Show us pictures of the remote and the antenna.

My guess is the antenna in the wireless receiver has deteriorated. They are replaceable. You need to open up the wireless receiver and see if the antenna is plugged into the PCB or soldered.

Click to expand...

Antenna soldered. Connects once within 6 inches of antenna.

Thanks for tip. I built this one

HermanTX said:

Pictures will help if you can post an overall shot of pool and specifics of the coping and decking.

Click to expand...

Can you not see the photo I posted? I'm new here, so thank you for responding.

That gray fitting is likely threaded in. Take a photo from further back so we can see the rest of the plumbing.

They have always had and still have it in Phoenix. Probably just an out of stock or they moved it. Another store in the area should have it, but go to Leslies who should have it. Sometimes there are shortages at the beginning of pool season.

Hello,
I touch both wires together and the heater did not come on.

You can't glue it due to the pressure in the pipe so the piping at the 90 needs to be replaced, preferably with a union.

Get some water in that thing so she stays put- I assume you can just pump it out when the water truck comes?

@FiguringItOut ,
We resolve algae with the
SLAM Process.
It is not finished until ALL 3 end of SLAM criteria are met:
Crystal Clear water with no algae dead or alive,
Pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test,
AND
Cc of 0.5 or less
If you haven’t met all 3 you aren’t done.
You must have, at bare minimum, a cya turbidity test and an fas/dpd test kit to do all these protocols.

Great, that's all we want, just to keep some chlorine in there to stave off growth...doing GREAT!

ajw22 said:

Read Pump Basics - Further Reading

Click to expand...

Thanks Allen.

Saturday night was
FC 4, TC 5
Added the daily dose of 107oz LC
Sunday morning results are
FC 4, TC 5

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

@PoolStored linked a great troubleshooting guide previously that I can't seem to find right now maybe he can help out.

Click to expand...

Read Pump Basics - Further Reading

What's happening under the pump lid? Is it filling up with water or mostly air? If it's mostly air that means you likely have a leak on the suction side which is from the pump back to the pool. Make sure suction valves are open to allow water to flow to the pump. Make sure water level is at least halfway up to the skimmer mouth. If there's not enough water in the skimmer your pump will suck in air.

Check the O-ring under the pump lid. If you have some silicone base lubricant, clean and lube the O-ring then replace. Make sure the lid is on hand tight.

@PoolStored linked a great troubleshooting guide previously that I can't seem to find right now maybe he can help out.

Also, always turn off the cell when adding large amounts of salt and let it get good and dissolved before turning it back on. You don’t want a slug of high salt water frying your cell.

yitzkr said:

Hope someone can help me again: I'm trying to find muriatic acid. I see on Homedepot.com 1 gallon of Klean Strip muriatic acid for $9.98. It's advertised as a concrete product.

Klean-Strip Green 1 Gal. Green Muriatic Acid GKGM75006 - The Home Depot

Brighten concrete and masonry by using this Green Safer Muriatic Acid from Klean-Strip. Easily cleans algae and scum for beauty.

www.homedepot.com

Is this the right thing for pools? I also can't seem to find the % acid contents on the product (14.5% or 29%).

The only other one I see online is this listing from Lowe's for 2 gallons of Muriatic Acid 14.5% for $15.98

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kem-Tek-2-Gallon-Muriatic-Acid/50323853?

Thanks all!

Click to expand...

Those are both 1/2 strength. Most “green” ones are.
They will do but you just need to use more compared to 31% - usually costing more in the long run.
both strengths are listed in poolmath so no worries if you can’t get ahold of full strength this time around.
If those two are your only options I would go with lowes kemtek since its no mystery of the strength and seems to be a better price.

Follow the link I gave above, gives you step by step.

MiScubaJeeper said:

Thanks for the reply! Correct, he didn't mention which level of Omni so I have that question out to him. I'm trying to educate myself on the difference between the 3 Omni models.

Click to expand...

Show the circuit board.

Is the module on Program A or B?

Did you remove and check the tri-sensor for scale?

The Jandy tri-sensor measures water flow, salinity, and water temperature.

The AquaPure does not have a flow switch, it has a flow sensor, which is a heated probe and and unheated probe and it works on the same principle as "wind chill".

The sensor works by heating a little metal button exposed inside the cell. The more water flow, the more heat is drawn away from the button, and the more current to the heater. The electronics in the box sense this current.

Causes of NO FLOW can be:

• Actual low flow. VSP set too low? Make sure skimmers, pump basket, are filter is clean and nothing else clogged.
• Crust (like calcium) over the button. Water can't carry the heat away. Check by removing the sensor and looking for it. Clean gently as needed.
• Failing heater element. Can't draw expected current. Replace sensor.
• Sensor wiring problem. Check connections inside the box.
• Bad electronics in the box. Least likely, but if the flow and sensor are good, this is all that's left.

If you have a No-Flow error try resetting the circuit breaker and re-calibrating the tri-sensor before you consider replacing it.

You can find instructions for replacing and calibrating the tri-sensor in the AquaPure and PureLink Tri-Sensor Adapter Installation Kit Manual.