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Accidently fixed Hayward H-Series heater- any insight on what got it working?

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Trying to figure out what got my heater working after a lot of unsuccessful troubleshooting in case I have the same problem again. Any insight would be helpful.

Opened the pool this week and everything worked except the heater (Hayward H300FD). It would click on and fan would run but I kept getting the IF error. I checked the gas line valve (natural gas) was open. I made sure heater gas valve was turned to on. I disconnected the manifold and cleared it out with a wire, but there was no obvious spider web or obstruction. I visually checked ignitor and it glowed red when heater was turned on. I checked the flame sensor and cleaned it with a dollar bill, but it looked pretty clean. None of the previous interventions fixed the IF error.

I had a NG home generator installed in the fall, so I was concerned that something had interrupted the gas supply. I did not have a manometer, but I figured I could at least smell if gas was coming from the inlet pressure tap plug. I removed the plug and opened the gas line. I smelled gas so at least I knew that there was no upstream problem. I then replaced the inlet plug and opened the manifold pressure tap plug. I started the heater and to my surprise it started running. I quickly shut off the gas and replaced the manifold pressure tap plug. I then restarted as usual and it ran normally. Any idea why opening the inlet plug and/or manifold plug would have fixed the problem? I did not adjust the regulator in any other way. Thanks
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Let’s see your water after removing winter cover!! **RESURRECTED FOR 2025!**

Sunny Blues
Came to post amazing picture after removing our cover today. This is what it looked like underneath immediately after taking the cover off. Minds blown once again, as this is what it is like every year! We live in northern Illinois and closed our pool in October. So almost 6-7 months under a cover and look what beautiful water awaited us!! I love TFPC!
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Frustrated pool owner

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Hi all, new to the forum. I have a Compool to easytouch upgrade I had installed years ago along with a couple variable speed pumps. 1 pump controls a skimmer on one side of the pool only and the returns are the pop head cleaner throughout the pool. The other is the main filter pump. I had a leak a while back on the pop up cleaner pump and disconnected it without paying attention to the wiring. I finally got around to fixing the leak on the pump and wanted it reconnected but couldn’t figure it out and called an “expert” who proceeded to hook it up wrong and now the main filter pump and salt cell have no power after a few days of operation. The whole thing was originally hooked up so both pumps are on at the same time along with the Salt cell. I have no clue now how this works and was hoping to figure out how it was originally wired to get functioning safely again. I spent 300 bucks a week ago for an obviously terrible result. Any help would be appreciated
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Porcelain paver overlay on concrete. What to do with joints?

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BigLebowski said:
We’re just getting started renovating our pool and deck. We increase the size of our concrete deck and plan to wet mount 1” thick EverBlue porcelain pavers on top using Ardex thinset. Wondering how we should handle the existing expansion joints and connection between new and old concrete. If we “honored” all of those joints, we’d have a ton “soft joints” (ie, caulk instead of grout). Not only would the pattern be all broken up but the the concrete pad has alll sorts of curves. One thought was to use a ditra membrane over the joints and liquid membrane elsewhere. Any thoughts suggestions. We live near Boston and don’t want to have have a ton of crack telegraphed through the pavers in a year or two. Thanks
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Anywhere there’s a joint in the underlying concrete is where a new crack will form in whatever is bonded over it. It’s a designed weak spot. Not much you can do other than tear it all out and repair it.
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Do I even need a valve?

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Mdragger88 said:
How do you plan to winterize? This decision will help you formulate your plans.
I remove all my plumbing and plug the returns with screw in plugs and leave the equipment outside fully drained, plugs out. The only thing I leave attached is the piece between the pump & filter.
I leave the valve under the skimmer open without anything attached to it after.

Yes, unions in the right places do a couple things:
Make it easy to remove a piece of equipment or plumbing without cutting
&
Allow you to screw on fittings without undoing whats down the line
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I don't generally winterize beyond drain.
But now that I got this nice new pump I will probably put that away.

I am now setting filter and I ran into a major concern.
I read the horror stories of the annoyance of sand washing into the pool.

On TFP recommendation I got Mystic White II, .49/20.
Please look at the picture of one of the laterals (Doheny's 24" sand filter). Does it not look like the sand is too small for them? Bunch immediately got embedded and you can see some from the pic of inside of the lateral that they're coming through, the grains.

Or is this by design?
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Hayward Aquarite SWG Board (v1.58) on/off? PLEASE HELP!!!

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dosmom said:
Hi, based on what is happening is it your guess that the board is bad? As you know I am dealing with the same issue
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Sorry guys, been out of town on a camping trip with my sons and their Troop. I'm ordering a new U13 (Voltage Supervisor chip) and my neighbor is going to install it for me when he gets back from vacation so it may be a few weeks until then. He used to work for Dell for 20+ years and does micro-soldering so he steered me in the right direction to buy the chip (see below) and said he's done hundreds of these same chips on boards over the years. As soon as I get it done, I'll update you.

MAX809JEUR+T | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. MAX809JEUR+T – Supervisor Push-Pull, Totem Pole 1 Channel SOT-23-3 from Analog Devices Inc./Maxim Integrated. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

For now, my aftermarket board is working fine with my old cell and I'll keep an eye on it, but I'd rather get the Hayward board fixed and up and running.
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Pool Patio Chipping

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I'm curious as to what I should do about my pool patio chipping up like this? First things first, what is this? It looks like concrete below but what is the stuff chipping up? Stucco? I would like to chip up all the loose stuff and replace it and then paint the entire deck, but I am not sure what I should use to patch this and attempt to
match the texture as well. Any advice?

**Sorry for the blur, internal camera is damaged.**


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