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Intellichor not doing its job

Not sure if I should start a separate thread. I'm having several pool equipment issues.

Pentair screenlogic: No longer showing PH, ORP, and the salt level reading is off (yes, salt was low, but it's been fixed). Could the intellichem probe need to be replaced/cleaned/something?

Salt cell: I has this same issue last year -- even when I try to set the sanitizer output, the salt cell resets itself to 100%.

I've tried pushing the less button, the more button, holding down both buttons, holding down the buttons for a longer time. The sanitizer output will go to 40% for about 30 seconds and then it will go back to 100%.

Anyone else had this issue?

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GFCI Breaker Tripping

Hi Gang - need your excellent help (again) - thanks so much.

2017 Hayward Super Pump SP2615X20 (2 HP, single speed) running on 230 volts.

Was working fine for the last 8 years including yesterday. I go out this morning at 8 am to make sure pool is all good but pump was not on.

GFCI breaker in pool subpanel was tripped, I assume when the timer went to start up the pump this morning. I reset the breaker and flipped the manual lever on = trip. Reset timer so it would run across on tripper = nothing, no start and no trip.

Brand new Intermatic T104M Mechanical Time Switch and brand new Siemens QPFB 20-amp 2-pole GFCI breaker (model Q220GFP).

Impeller rotates fine.

We had some pretty heavy rain and high winds last night here in Dallas.

Perhaps rain/moisture has gotten into the motor, likely via the cooling slots near the back of the motor where all the electrical connections are located - possible ?

If not that simple answer, what else might it be and how to I diagnose ?

Unfortunately it's raining here again now but I was thinking in the morning I would pull the motor's back cover and hit the end with hairdryer to dry it all up - good idea ?

Thanks again very much for any help/insight/thoughts on this, I really appreciate it.

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Temp Light on SWCG

Apologies for the long post, but I wanted to give all the detail. I hope my sig is viewable with all of my system details.

I am going into 4th summer with my pool and equipment. Same person has closed and opened my pool each year. When we opened this year, the temp light was showing red. Because the water temp was still low, I thought nothing of it. But, the light remained on even after the water got to a temperature where it should generate. Cell is clean and no visible damage. I am still getting power to the control panel, and no other errors are being reported. After scouring the internet for help, I learned that my cell (T-cell-5) has its temperature sensor built in, and that the cell needs to be replaced. My system is XtremepowerUS (non-programmable, plug and play), which no longer seems to be manufactured. I bought a replacement cell from a different company. Interestingly, when I went to switch out cells, the light wasn't on anymore. Instead of installing the new cell, I hit the superchlorinate button and planned to test my chlorine levels in the morning. In the morning, temp light was back on. Chlorine levels in the pool were up (not as high as I'd expect if it had supergenerated all night), so it generated for at least part of the night. I went ahead and switched out the cell. After switching it out, I still got the same error light - temperature sensor. So, after some more internet searching, I opened the control panel to inspect the circuit board. No visible corrosion, burn marks, or loose wires. None of the other lights in the panel are showing, including the light that indicates the cell isn't working. Finally, I asked ChatGPT what it thought (please don't judge, I couldn't find answers elsewhere), and it suggested that it could be a specific resistor in the circuit and offered a way to test this. Luckily, I have a colleague with the equipment and skill set to test it and replace it if that is the problem. I don't know when this will happen, but I am using liquid chlorine in the meantime (new appreciation for my SWCG).

After all this, I am still anticipating that I will have to replace the whole system (cell and the control panel), and I really want to be able to do this myself. My pool is about 14K gallons, so a 15K salt system will work. Is there any advantage to sizing up to 25K? In theory, this should mean running the cell for less time, right? Is this something I could do myself? If I could simply buy a replacement circuit board, I would have no trouble installing a new board in my existing control panel, but I am not sure if replacing the whole panel is something I can do or whether the wiring would even work for a different system. If I have to buy a whole new system and pay someone to install it, I am not sure I can make that happen this summer. I assume any licensed electrician could do this?

Am I missing anything? I really thought a new cell would fix the issue. I guess one possibility is that I bought the wrong replacement cell, but I would have expected a different error message if this one weren't compatible. This is what I bought which, like the one I have, is supposed to be a plug and play for the Hayward T Cell5:

T-5 Pool Salt Turbo Cell Chlorinator Generator Replacement Part for Hayward T Cell T5 GLX-Cell-5 TCell5 T-Cell-5 AquaRite SwimPure 20K Gallon Inground Saltwater Chlorine Automation System

Thanks for any insights. I did not choose any of my equipment—the builder chose it, so this is what I am working with.

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