Springtails possibly.
@Katodude and @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta i think have dealt with them. Maybe they'll chime in.

Round your CYA up to next 10, yours is 40.
Post a picture of the pH test, neutral light with white background.

332,000 x 0.82 = 272,240 btu/hr. transferred to the water.

332,000 x 0.18 = 59,760 btu/hr. transferred to the air.

300 - 80 = 220 F = Air temperature rise.

1132 pounds of air per hour = 14,045 cubic feet per hour.

Burning 332 cubic feet of methane at STP produces approximately 33.34 pounds of water.

If I have 1132 pounds of air at 80 f and 60% Relative Humidity and I add 33.34 pounds of water to the air and heat the air to 300 F, what is the new relative humidity and dew point?

New Relative Humidity: Approximately 1.1%

New Dew Point: Approximately 141 °F

Ok update. Turns out the issue wasn’t the timer. It was me. I had it in the off position so when the “off” peg was hit, there was the noise, but since it was already off it just stayed that way of course. Sorry everyone, I guess the energy high from doing electrical work like a pro made the rest of my brain turn off.

Anyhow I’m going to set the clock to the correct time now and put the pegs where they need to be and then check in tmr to confirm all is well.

Thank you all for your support as usual. I couldn’t handle things like this without all the wonderful people who take time to reply to me while I am obsessed with fixing something.

Hello, folks.
I just did the first tests with the Taylor K-2006C.
FC = 0.5
CC = 1.5
TA = 60 ppm with 25 ml sample test and, 50 ppm with 10 ml sample test.
CYA = 35
pH = below 7.0, did pH base demand, took 6 drops and per table add 3.85 lb of sodium carbonate 100%
CH = 675 - took very many drops, had a hard time determining exact time it went from purple to blue.
Input data into the pool math app which advised to add 1.6 gallons of liquid chlorine.
Have not done anything yet to see if anyone is online tonight.
Thanks in advance.
Rachel

Don't fixate on flow. All you need is the minimum or higher. You likely won't see north of 50/60 even at high speed, through a heater.
Whether you heat at 35 or 50 doesn't matter, you are transfering the heat.

nas313 said:

faster heating raypak recommend 50-70GPM,

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I have never seen this recommendation, nor do I believe it. Pushing that much water is hard to do with heater and pool plumbing. Just run at 5gpm over minimum for filter getting dirty. Min is 35 for the 336. I run 40. (I have the same heater) It will heat efficiently, and cost Waaaaaay less on electricity.

malimited said:

Thank you, this makes sense now. So on normal operation, the Skimmer valve should remain as is, which is in the 3 o'clock position and then the Main Drain valve should be positioned at 9 o'clock. Correct?

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If you are trying to have 100% suction from 1 skimmer to vacuum then do the following.
Turn the valve in front of the pump 180 degrees such that handle is at 9 o clock
Then turn the skimmer valve handle to either 12 o clock or 6 o clock depending on which skimmer you want to use to vacuum.

How you vacuum and how you run for normal pool operations will require 2 different valve settings. You wanted to know how to vacuum which is the current focus.

9 would provide full suction to skimmers. 12:00 would be around 50/50. Try around 10:00. This will keep a little bit of water flowing through the bottom drain. You may experiment a bit and try different settings. No two pools are alike.

Regarding the SWG previous owner had one and got it removed for some reason I was told it kept causing them issues. As for the 1HP pump how do I know if it’s circulating enough water for example 50 to 60 gallons per minute. Which I check the manual and spoke to the Raypak technicians they said it can take up to 100 GPM but refined 50-70. I just feel it takes way to long to heat and definitely longer to clean the pool.

What do you think if it was a 2 hp VSP? What advantages would it have? I can’t stress how how many hours I’ve spent cleaning the debris manually skimming and that’s with a Betta skimmer as well. In other words, it’s not just about the cleaning. It’s also about the heating. I just want to enjoy the pool. Which has been hard to do since I bought the house.

We are coming up on a weekend and if you can test and add every two hours, you will make significant progress. You can even slam late into the night.

mblind said:

I wanted to adjust my TA and pH and then get my FC in line. Am I wrong on this?

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Yes, you are wrong. Chlorine is king. Go to Menards and get some liquid chlorine (if Menards is close). Get your FC up to target range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Do that first, do that fast.
Get some muriatic acid at Menards. Use that to lower your pH.
You did not report CH from your test kit. Test that and report.

You need to get chlorine in that pool, NOW. Use liquid for now.

Test for Algae after you get some chlorine in the pool. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

tobitoy said:

It is a plastic skimmer and a fibreglass pool.

So if I understand correctly I just seal the leak by putting the putty on the backside where the skimmer meets the pool (marked in green) ?

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Yes. Since the crack seems to be on the plastic. Try that first.
The alternative is a repair product for fiberglass. I am not familiar with that so you may have better insight to that.

PoolStored said:

Follow these instructions for CYA:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

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thank you

Just got home and tested FC is 12.5 CC back up to 1.0

When pressure rises 25% over clean pressure backwash. Measure clean pressure with the DE in the filter.
Backwash until the sight glass water is clear.

I can't help you with your issue, there may be other that can.

1HP pump is enough. VSP will lower your energy bills and likely payback in 1-2 years. I would do this in a heartbeat.
You can either get a flow meter, or if you have an SWG, you can get the temp rise from the heater water temp to the SWG temp and calculate flow.
If you don't have an SWG, that is the second thing I would do.

Sure. I mean any anecdotal recommendations that exceed code. Such as the minimum is X but if I could do it again I would go Y.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

You want to vacuum, and you want more suction from the skimmers. This is why I'm recommending to give your skimmers full suction. Then you can decide which one you want to use and adjust the skimmers valve accordingly.

In the current configuration, you have no suction from the skimmers. You're pulling 100% from the bottom drain, which means you are not skimming any floating debris off the water surface.

In normal operation, you should be pulling about 90% from the skimmers and 10% from the bottom drain. This will give you the best skimming action while still pulling a bit of water from the bottom drain.

Click to expand...

Thank you, this makes sense now. So on normal operation, the Skimmer valve should remain as is, which is in the 3 o'clock position and then the Main Drain valve should be positioned at 9 o'clock. Correct?

coolperson said:

Should I put in a submersible pump to help circulate and mix the shock? How many HP should I buy?should I run all day long?

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How much organic material is there? Don't want to plug up a submersible.
But, sure, and when you add chloring do it slowly into the roiling water from the submersible.

Follow these instructions for CYA:

I'll put the UG back in when it come tomorrow. I'm mathed out.

Oh, and it is now running much cooler.

Ok. The on peg worked. Let me try the off again. Maybe I was messing with it too much. I’m overly committed at this time. Will report back soon.

Jetmanjo said:

doing the CYA test

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Assume it is less than 30, go ahead and add 30ppm, retest in 24 hours after it is dissolved and adjust your CYA and FC target if it is higher than 30.

Jetmanjo said:

what is Dry Chlorine Stabilizer

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CYA, Cyanuric Acid. Get it at Walmart.

When not firing, I would think that you would avoid condensation if the water temperature is above the Dew Point.

When firing, the water in the heat exchanger gets hotter, but you also have added water in the air due to the water produced during combustion.

You can figure out the minimum water temperature in the heat exchanger based on the flow rate and btu/hr transferred.

The air is very hot at combustion, but about 84% of the heat is transferred to the water and the air drops to about 300 F.

You can figure out the amount of water produced during combustion from the heater btu/hr rating and then add that to the amount of air that moves through the heater in 1 hour to figure out the humidity.

You can figure out the air flow rate based on the temperature rise and btu/hr of heat left in the air.

From there, you can figure out the Dew Point of the exhaust to see if the water in the heat exchanger is above the dew point.

Thank you for the advice, definitely makes sense, just wish i had known this when i started 4 years ago. i like many just listened to the pool store and what they said to do. i got my test kit today, i am reading up on how to use it. some initial results

the free chlorine - this was hard I could barely see the pink and it disappeared after 1 drop so .5? but then adding the CC reagent it also cleared up after 1 drop.
ph is 7.2
I did the regular chlorine test and it didn't even change color

I tried the CYA test and I think I got 75? keep in mind I just emptied half the pool water so it had to be really high (4 years of dichlor/trichlor)
I will try that test and all tests tomorrow.

After getting home from work I got in it & vacuumed out the worms from the previous rainstorm. Then enjoyed the evening sitting by it with a cigar and a cocktail. My pool patio is my favorite place to be......

You want to vacuum, and you want more suction from the skimmers. This is why I'm recommending to give your skimmers full suction. Then you can decide which one you want to use and adjust the skimmers valve accordingly.

In the current configuration, you have no suction from the skimmers. You're pulling 100% from the bottom drain, which means you are not skimming any floating debris off the water surface.

In normal operation, you should be pulling about 90% from the skimmers and 10% from the bottom drain. This will give you the best skimming action while still pulling a bit of water from the bottom drain.