AA and adding chlorine

My pool was a mess that I unknowingly created before I read on this site. I done a AA treatment then drained half the pool, refilled, and beginning to get my cya and chlorine levels back to normal. My PH, Alk, & salt look decent now, but pool is currently very cloudy. My main question is should I use the SWG to bring it back up, or use LC to bring it up then turn on the SWG? I have added purple stuff and poly 60. Any other suggestions appreciated. Thanks!

PH 7.4
Alk 91
FC .10
CYA 20

Leaking From Drain Valve Help

I have a Hot Spring Spa, Prodigy, Model H, Serial Number H3E1249. It appears to be leaking from somewhere behind the drain valve. It looks similar to this.

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My particular spa has one drain at the lowest part of the tub. There are two drains on my spa, located underneath the maintenance panel. One has a lever on the valve body, while the other does not. The one with the lever, somewhere behind it is leaking. Any tips on how to fix the leak?

I looked online for example:

Hot Spring Spas 30592 Drain Valve, Hose Shut-Off

To see if I could find a diagram for my spa of this part and what it is connected to. Under specifications, none of the diagrams seem to match my spa. But this is my closest one.

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Part 10 and 11, I'm not able to locate on my spa.

Because it seems to be leaking from behind the vale, I think the valve is closing properly. Anyways, I was thinking of untwisting the drain valve with the handle from the tube adapter, putting new tape around it and seeing if that helps. The valve itself seems already pretty tight. I'm not able to loosen it or tighten it by hand. There are wrench flats on it, but I'm not sure what size socket I need. I would assume some sort of special one, with a cut out for the handle. Not sure where to get such a socket, but I presume it would be a specialty one.

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It's in a recessed cutout at the bottom of the spa, so channel lock pliers would not help, not enough clearance. The only thing I could think of is a socket. If successful in removing the valve (if I ever find the right tool), I would be unsure how much torque to tighten the thing back down in place with. Anyone know? I would use a torque wrench.

If retaping the valve does not work, then I would presume it's leaking from somewhere else, further back. How do I troubleshoot or investigate further to attempt to fix this issue? How would I access the rest of the parts in the drain system to look for where it's leaking? I'm learning to be a mechanic, so jack stands, floor jacks, wrenches, so forth I have plenty. Not sure if I would have to access the rest of the drain system from beneath the spa? If so, I wouldn't be sure how to safely jack and support the spa in the air safely.

Thanks for any help or tips on how to fix a leaking spa that is leaking in the drain system somewhere.

Also, I might add, that this spa hasn't been used for awhile, and it came with our house when we bought it, so the history is unknown to us. However, it's an indoor spa. I do live in an area that gets below freezing typically in the winter. It sits in a room with no heat, however there's heat inside of the house that the room is in that presumably was always heated, because people were living in it, so I doubt anything could have frozen causing damage.

White flakes...

Sorry for another white flakes thread. First time owner of salt pool. My numbers are below. Getting a lot of white flakes from the salt cell. Just bought this house and the salt cell is a year old. I have acid washed it. My pool guy says the plates are bad and need a new salt cell. However it still makes chlorine just fine and I have not seen any other threads attributing white flakes to a bad cell. I have added about 5 gallons of acid to bring the pH and TA down. Any info is much appreciated!

Water temp 80
Chlorine 5
pH 7.4
TA 150
Calcium 320
Cya 75
Salt 3600

Old Anthony & Sylvan Gunite Pool Return

IMG_6398.jpegHello TFP community, this is the pic of my pool inlet return. The fitting was missing when I first got the house and pool. I put a 1” pvc elbow which doesn’t screw in properly, but stays put and of course sticks out from the wall. The female thread is a tad larger than a 1” and yet 1-1/4” doesn’t fit. Not sure what will fit. Also noticed the two tabs for screws.
Has anyone come across a return like this? Any advice for me, what part or kit to get the return proper again (eg. Put an eyeball or something there)?
Thank you in advance! Any thought/pointer is greatly appreciated.

Getting started

Hello all. I just joined the forum and have some questions. I have not yet purchased a test kit so I can only provide what my latest pool store results were.
Adjusted Alkalinity: 56.2
PH: 7.5
FC: 2
Calcium Hardness: 186
CYA: 117
Phosphate: 500

I've already adjusted the PH and alkalinity using baking soda and muriatic acid. I know I'll need to drain some water and replace to get rid of the CYA which will probably just throw off the PH that I just fixed.

Up until now I've been using Trichlor tabs and shocking with Clorox extra blue which has sodium dichloro something or other. No wonder my CYA is climbing every week.

I want to start using liquid chlorine but I'm not sure how much it will take. Once I get CYA down, and chlorine levels in check, how much liquid chlorine should I expect to have to use every day to maintain levels in a 22,600 gallon pool?

Will it take a gallon every day? 1/2 a gallon?

Just trying to figure out if I'll really be saving that much switching to this method.

What really stinks is that I just bought a 40lb bucket of Trichlor tabs at sam's club for 199.98 thinking I was getting a good deal and now I don't think I want to use it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hello from Annapolis, MD

I have an indoor pool and decided to bite the bullet and learn how to manage the chemistry myself. (I am a nerd at heart so this came naturally.)

I initially got a WaterGuru S2 and it reported off-the-charts FC. (It only reports up to 12.9 and my guess is I was well into the 30s before I reduced it.) I also noticed the water was somewhat cloudy and there were white chalky deposits on the bottom and on the steps. I found TFP via searching for what was causing the white deposits.

After a few days of reading this forum I got Pool Chemistry 101 under my belt and the cause was clear: I’d been using trichlor pucks in a feeder for the last year or so, not really paying attention to the levels and just using test strips periodically. Since this is an indoor pool, you probably know where this is going: FC was too high, yes, but CYA was off the charts (>100) and the chalky white stuff was calcium from the pucks. pH was also high (>8).

Interestingly the WaterGuru reported random and incredible values for TA, CH and CYA. Like CYA of 385 (!). So I took the TFP advice and bought a Taylor test kit and took some real measurements. I still didn’t have a decent CYA number, though, because I didn’t realize you need to look for the black dot in bright sunlight; I was reading it indoors.

I was able to get pH and FC into reasonable ranges with chemicals. But to my dismay, I learned here that there is no way to lower CYA short of water exchange. So using the pump-and-fill exchange method detailed here, I exchanged about 50% of the water in the pool. This got CYA down to ~50 (I learned how to read the black dot test properly) but… now my water was green. :(

Experts here will know my water turned green due to iron in my fill water. The good news is that by running a brand new filter and running the Dolphin pool bot a few times it cleared the iron out in about 24 hours. The Dolphin fine filter was coated in brown; this suggests to me that running the Dolphin multiple times (I probably ran it for 4x 3-hour cycles) is a viable way to remove iron from your water.

I’ve now got it pretty close to ideal, which feels like quite an accomplishment:

FC 7.5
pH 7.7
CYA 45-55
TA 90
CH 340

And of course I‘ll only use liquid chlorine from now on. And even now the WaterGuru reports just absurd numbers for CYA (it says 158 one test and then 350 the next). My observation is that the WaterGuru is actually pretty close to the Taylor readings on FC and pH but is utterly useless on the other three values. So there’s really no reason to use the 5-way tests in my opinion.

Thanks to everyone whose makes TFP such an amazing resource!

Dave

Intellichlor IC40 reading 4600 ppm

Hi everyone

I've had this pool for a couple years now, built new by me. I have a TF-Pro testkit that I test constantly with. My problem is that, my salt test kit has been reading and still does read 3600 for over a year now. The ONLY thing I've done to my pool in the last year is added (I'd have to check exactly) 50 or so pounds of boric acid to my pool. That was the fall of 2022. My salt has been reading around 4100 for the last couple months and today it hit 4600 (on my screenlogic app). Is this thing faulty, or is it somehow reading the boric acid in the water and messing up the reading? I can't find much info on this anywhere, but now my chlorine is only around 5 and I have CYA between 70 and 90. I live in Las Vegas and today is the first real day that it's gotten hot enough to get my pool above 78 degrees (I don't have a ton of direct sun exposure. Sun doesn't fully cover my pool until around 1pm and then it's only full coverage until 5pm).

In the meantime, is my pool generating chlorine at 4600?

LXI 400 Heater Ignition Lockout Error

I have been trying to get my Jandy LXI 400 (propane) working for the last year and a half and still no luck. Here is the latest:
Blower comes on, I hear the 3 clicks, I smell propane, nothing ignites, get “Ignition Lockout” error. So far I have:
1) replaced flame sensor
2) replaced ignighter
3) replaced gas valve
4) replaced Fenwell control module
5) checked hoses to air pressure switch for cracks
6) checked air pressure switch with multimeter
7) checked propane level in main tank
8) removed small visible amount of corrosion on the Universal Controller Power Interface
9) Had an HVAC guy out and he attempted to bypass the Air Pressure Switch to see if it would ignite and it would not

Next step:
1) Replace the Air Pressure Switch?

Looking at old threads, two other options are:
1) check gas with manometer even though we clearly smell propane
2) clean off “2 spade connectors”, but I am not sure where or what these are

Any other suggestions?

air in spa filter basket housing

New pool and inground spa owner here. We truly appreciate the wealth of knowledge here.

This thread refers to our spa.

Both pool and spa are fiberglass, completely independent of each other (separate SWG, filters, pumps and heaters).

Our spa pump (Hayward Tristar VS 900) has never fully primed. There's always a lot of air in the filter basket housing. There seems to be enough water for it the run, but there is a good amount of air, about 2 full inches of air, always.

We don't have a check valve, or any valve on the suction side.

We've tried bleeding air out of spa filter valve, magic lube on filter housing lid o-ring, checking for suction side leaks with soapy water (none found, above ground anyway).

PB suggested lube on the o-ring, which we had already tried. They'll be back in 6 weeks to finish our patio and will look at it then, but kind of wanting to figure it out more quickly.

We do have an air bubbler, but even when it's off, there are always steady small bubbles coming out of the returns, even with the pump on low and even when SWG is off. Is this normal for spas due to the plumbing? Is air always introduced since we have a bubbler installed, even when it's turned off? Could these consistent bubbles be caused by the air in the pump? Could the air in pump be caused by the plumbing for the bubbler? I've heard of some kind of "loop" used for spa jets, but don't fully understand and am not sure if ours is plumbed that way.

Thank you!

Intelliflo pump control board parts

Hi there,
I apologize in advance if this has been discussed before or if it sounds stupid.

My intelliflo pump which is connecting to Easy touch system was acting up couple days ago not starting and not responding
After some troubleshooting I found comm failure between pump and easy touch
I played with the RS cable from the pump side and communication was successful for sometime
I noticed a broken o ring and one of the connectors from the pump controller side was rusted.
I used wd-40 connector cleaner and it is now working but I believe it is exposed to the rain and elements and will rust again.
I was wondering if I can purchase the part in the picture or make it by myself or I have to buy the whole thing?
Thanks for your help

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Hayward S3 Control Panel error

I purchased a Hayward Turbocell S325, along with their new panel about 6 months ago.

I started receiving an error message that says "Invalid Cell" when all the settings and equipment is securely plugged in (at least from sight).

Recently my store replaced the cell entirely, and it still reads "Invalid Cell" after a factory reset of the panel and resetting the cell.

Any ideas?

2" piping with Pentair SuperFlo VST (342002)

I am in a middle of replacing all the piping and most of the equipment in my aboveground pool. I decided to go with 2" piping everywhere. I am using a Pentair SuperFlo VST pump (342002). After taking the pump out of the box, I realized that the pump comes with unions for 1.5" pipe (Pentair part 350093) (this is according to my plumber):

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Can someone recommend a union designed for a 2" pipe? I would rather not use reducers, etc. - this defeats the point of using the 2" pipe.

Question about poolmath target ranges and CSI

Have a vinyl pool with SWG for 3 years. Thanks to TFP pool chemistry info, it has been easy to keep water clear and trouble free :)
Have a question about calcium and CSI please. Using poolmath app for the below chemistry and it calculates -0.68 CSI. They are all within or close to recommended range. What adjustments should I make to get CSI to above -0.3?
pH 7.6
TA 82
CH 121
CYA 50
Water temp 70 F - don't have heater so can't change this.
Salt 3200
CSI -0.68
Thanks in advance for any advise and guidance!

SWG Settings

Hi! I have a Jandy TruClear SWG that treats up to size 35k gallon pool. My pool is 20k gallons. We have been running it at 100% 24/7 because we haven't learned what to change the setting to yet. We decided to leave it at that setting while we focused on balancing the pool. I am now losing chlorine and my SWG says low chlorine.

Here are my test results (Taylor test kits):
Salt - 3400 ppm
FC - 1.0
CC- .5
PH - 7.8
TA- 210
CYA- 50

How would you move forward? I have salt and chlorine I can add but wanted some direction regarding the SWG first.

Is this enough disturbance to aerate and increase PH?


I know iCloud links aren’t preferred, but I don’t believe the site will let me upload a video. I’ve also included a still for anyone who might not want to view the video.

IMG_0831.jpeg

To buy or not to buy? (another Maytronics robot)

We have a dead Pentair Warrior SE. A big disappointment that worked fairly well for just over 2 years, the warranty period, then died the usual way. Should I buy another Maytronics robot or will it just die in another couple years? The guys at Leslie's where we went to look at them say Maytronics has solved the problem of motor burnout, but I'm skeptical. Opinions? If not Maytronics, what else is the best choice?

Water Hardness

I use a water softener that was installed in our home when we purchased it. I'm wondering if I can use the Calcium Hardness part of my test kit to get an idea if the softener is set to the right setting? I know that hardness is not just Calcium. Is there a proxy I can use to estimate total hardness or a way to modify the test using reagents in my K-2006 kit to test total hardness? And how does the conversion to grams of hardness work? Thanks!

Hayward H250IDL Standby only

I do have a problem with my H250IDL . The standby light is on but none of the buttons respond when pushed. The pcb board #R43 shows it has been hot I assume it is a resistor by the "R". My multi-meter has a audio beep when I check it, however none of the other resistors do. Where can I get the value of this resistor or capacitor what ever it is.

I checked with all power to the unit off .
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Sand filter not filtering

Hi all,

We have a small 6000gal above ground pool. It came with a pump and cartridge filter but we upgraded to a 14" sand filter kit to not have to constantly wash out the cartridge.

I was going to buy a filter locally but the pool store near us did not carry something that small so I got a pump/filter combo on Amazon and bought the filter sand locally. It calls for 60lbs of sand filled between half way and 3/4 in the tank. I filled it to 3/4.


The issue that I'm having is that it does not seem to actually be filtering the water. The pump is moving plenty of water through the system. There are two inlets, one is connected to the skimmer and the other has the strainer on the side of the wall. These are T'ed together to the inlet of the pump. The pressure gauge reads 4psi.

I have verified that the valve is in the correct position. This one is simplified from the standard Hayward valves in that it only has Backwash, Rinse, Filter and Winter positions.

I've let it run for 40+ hours and it has had no change on the clarity of the water. The chemistry looks good with the correct chlorine and ph levels, yet the water is murky and unfiltered. The pressure never changes from above 4psi even when the filter has run long enough to need to be backwashed. The pressure is the same in all positions of the valve. In reading about low pressure all indications point to restricted flow but the flow is very good to and through the pump.

When backwashing, the flow is good but the water runs clear like nothing was captured in the sand. You can hear the sand moving around in the tank. Rinsing looks the same.

In an attempt to trouble shoot I removed some sand to get it to the 1/2 way mark. This made no change. I even disassembled the valve to check and see if the seals were good or if it possibly had been assembled 180 degrees out of alignment. But everything looked good and the segments of the valve in filter mode line up with sending the water from the pump to the distributor in the top of the tank and then on the standpipe outlet it is sent to the return to the pool.

Any thoughts as to why the filter is not filtering? Thanks!

Polyfill help

EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green, then you’re ready for the Polyfill.





My well water has iron in it, enough that when I add chlorine into my pool, it oxidizes the iron and turns the water a dull green color. Everyone said I needed to add in a sequestriant to sequester the iron, but that it wouldn’t actually remove it from the water, and that I’d have to keep adding the sequestriant every month. Not wanting to add any more chemicals to my pool than I need to, I read about using polyfill to filter the iron out of the water. Not having a skimmer to fill with Polyfill, I rigged up a 5 gallon bucket to my pool ladder with some string, have a couple dozen 1/4” holes drilled into the bucket, and a large hole drilled into the bottom of the bucket. The bottom hole is just big enough to let the smaller end of a vacuum tube fit into and about 90% of the way down the tapered tube, it seals tight. I then got a piece of PVC pipe that just barely fits inside the return hose and the vacuum tube (both happen to be exactly the same size), connecting both the tube and the hose together. Not wanting to ruin the only hose I have for my pump, I wrapped the rigged up connection with duct tape, then sprayed rust-o-leum rubber spray around it and gave it 5 mins to set, and then wrapped that with duct tape again. I repeated this 7 or 8 times and, once pressurized by the water from the return hose, only leaks at a rate of a single drop every 8 or 9 seconds. Again, don’t want to ruin my pumps hose, so that was the best I could do. Also sprayed the rubber spray around where the bucket and vacuum tube connect. After half a day of drying time, I opened the bucket and stuffed it with as much polyfill as I could, which came to about half the big bag I got from Walmart. That stuff starts expanding when compacted pretty quickly, so had to carefully close the lid without any sticking out. Now set the bucket on the pool ladder (strings tied across underneath bucket if you can’t use the top rungs) and use another string to hold the bucket steady. If you have a small pump that might tip over or has short hoses on it, tie it down on top of another bucket filled with water (I used cat litter container). Also tie your hoses up to give some extra support if needed. Unstop your intake holes, prime pump, and then watch clean water come pouring out of the holes in the bucket. Let it run like this for a couple days depending on how dark the iron has made your pool water. You should notice a difference within a day. If its bad enough that it fills up the polyfill (not sure how you’d know without taking down the bucket and opening it since mine wasn’t bad enough to have to change the polyfill), replace the polyfill every couple of days. Soon, you’ll see the bottom of your pool, and then you’ll end up with clear clean water with the iron actually removed from your pool, without needing to buy something monthly for it.

I will end up fixing the bucket so I can hook up a garden hose to it to top off my pool when low, and filter out the iron then before it gets into my pool again. Also, as I experienced, if you turn off your pump or it loses power, when you turn it back on, some of the brown iron water will start pouring back out because of the iron settling down to the bottom when the water isn’t moving. 10 seconds later, the water coming out of the bucket was clear again and within an hour, all the brown water that had been dumped back in was filtered out again. When your pool is back clear, you might notice some iron deposits sitting on the bottom of the pool, be sure to brush those deposits so your pump and pull that through the polyfill filter.

When you’re finally done and have a clear pool again, have someone else stop up the intake holes while your turn your pump off and then quickly get the bucket down before it runs out of water. This prevents any iron from settling to the bottom and spilling out into your pool. As a warning, be careful taking the bucket down, since its now filled with iron and water and is probably heavier than you’re expecting.


I’m attaching photos of how I rigged up the bucket, what the water looked like when I turned off the pump to check the filter and some iron spilled back in, and what it looked like when finished.


Here’s a link to the Photos Album containing my pictures of my setup to filter the iron.


Didn’t think to take photos beforehand, imagine my entire pool that green color.



This is my setup with it finishing up cleaning out the iron.



This is the holes in the lid and shows what my water looked like after filtering.
Attempting the polyfil filtering after over a month of trying to balance our iron laden saltwater pool.... I have stuffed some in my skimmer. How much or how little is too much or too little? Should it be stuffed to the brim?

Any Tips on Getting Weir Door Out

Hello,

I just had a new skimmer installed and of course the weir door that came with it is getting stuck. I'm going to have to take it out and shave it down or replace it. Problem is I cannot for the life of me get it out. It's the style that has two tabs on the sides that just slip into holes on the side of the skimmer. Real easy to get in, impossible to get out:



Anyone have any tips on getting this out? Thanks!

Cloudy weeks into SLAM added DE...

Hello all!

Struggled with our new pool last season, did a terrible job over the colder months and started out this year as a TFP devotee, already spreading the gospel!

We started our SLAM a few weeks ago. First got our PH down to 7.2. Initial CYA tests weren't reliable (so we were slamming at 31 thinking it was 80). Since vacuuming, a few storms and lots of backwashing and adding fresh water we're pretty positive it's in the 40s, rounding up to 50. Now we're keeping FC at 20. Using new reagent as well, so thinking the combination of old reagent and lack of experience caused us to get 80.

We've been pretty dang consistent, but not perfect, some days we've only tested and added twice, but most days (and the last 5 at least) we've tested at least 5 times a day and keeping it at shock level. CC has been .5 for a few days.

For about 10 days we've been totally blue, but very very cloudy. Like can't see my hand more than a foot down. Trying to remain patient and trust the process and avoid clarifier, although the Amazon reviews are tempting, I keep coming back here and talking myself out of it.

We knew that the guy that installed our hayward sand filter last year used quikcrete sand, so we switched to pool store sand hoping that might help last week after reading stories about bad quikcrete sand.

I bought DE and we added 1/4 cup diluted in water into skimmer basket. PSI has been consistently around 19. Just 1/4 cup made it quickly go up to 25 so we backwashed and it went back to 19. A few hours later decided to add more to try to get to 20, and it shot back up to 25 again. Backwashed again.

So then I realized that when I turned off filter to backwash, PSI only went to 10 when it was off. Not 0. So I guess I'm buying a new gadget.

A few questions for the brilliant experts:

Since I can't reliably check my PSI should I just backwash out the DE to avoid issues until new gauge arrives?

How can I test to see what other issues may be causing cloudy water if I'm mid SLAM?

Is it completely abnormal to be bright blue but so cloudy for over 2 weeks?

What else am I missing?

I really want to stay the course and solve this with liquid chlorine and DE, but I'm getting pretty discouraged and wonder at what point I try clarifier. Also unclear on what else I could mess up by using clarifier, I just know it's discouraged here.

Thanks for reading all my troubles! Y'all are the best and reading these forums and pool school finally made it all click after a really befuddled first season!
Hi there! Your situation sounded so familiar to ours and I’m just curious how it turned out? We are pretty close to killing all our algae and although it’s blue it’s extremely cloudy. We have an old sand filter. Wondering if we should try DE as well!

Filter