Not sure why but this season my SWG has been scaling very quickly. I assume its due to my CSI tending positive quickly because my CH is high and my fill water is hard. This was my plan to try to slow it down, but not sure what the best/cheapest way to do it.

- Keep PH at 7.2 to keep CSI negative, but going to burn through a lot of acid.
- Read other threads that using borates could help lower PH inside the cell. Going to get test strips to see where it is now and add some to bring it up to 30ppm or so
- Start filling with soft water to try to lower CH over time as I don’t want to pump out water to lower CH

FC - 5.5
CYA - 50
PH - 7.5
TA - 110 (use so much acid and doesn’t go down much, was 130)
CH - 425
Cell Temp - Between 80 to 90F

Where can I order replacement brushes for the dolphin motor?

How do I know if I have a sand filteror a DE filter?

I understand what needs to be connected to what thanks to Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

My new IntelliFlo3 did not come with a cable, so what cable should I buy? Some kind of outdoor Cat5 twisted pair cable? It looks like it's just 2 bare wires that connect at the pump & Aqualink end, with no connector required. True?

Thanks !!

We have a salt pool. I’m ready to learn more and not depend on the pool store as much.

Hi! I'm new to pools. The house I bought a few years ago had an old pool and it was finally renovated. It was replastered this May. Pool renovator set up the Polaris a month or so after the replaster but I don't think it was done, let's say, optimally. Pool doesn't seem much cleaner. So I started to re-do the setup. The leader hose is much longer than deepest part of pool so that needs to be cut. The entire hose is much longer than farthest point to pool. My questions:

• The hose has threads on the end (see left side of photo) so if I cut the leader and feed hoses, I cut off the threads. Is that what I'm supposed to do?
  • Is there a good youtube video showing a cut and reattachment? I haven't found one.
• The manual shows 2 swivels but my pool renovator only installed one. I assume I need to add another swivel, right?

Thanks TFP!

640 lbs of salt resulted in 3900 ppm. How many gallons? (Owner told me pool was 28,000)

I am installing a pool heater. Right now I have only a pump and the filter. The output pipe of the filter is directly level with the return pipe, about 10 inches from the equipment pad, which is only gravel. Since the heater comes after the filter, I need to move the filter, and put the heater where the filter was. But the heater water outlet is only 2 inches off the equipment pad. Can I put pavers under the heater so that the heater outlet pipe is more in line with the existing return pipe? Essentially I would be installing the heater at a different height than the pump and filter.

Does anyone know of a product that you can hook to your skimmer to use as a removable main drain,it would have been easier if I installed it beforehand,but now that I haven't I would like something to throw in the pool while not in use or for when I'm sweeping the pool to help filter the finer particles.

Edit: Apparently the two options are sunseeker/pool tone and j&j. Sun seeker is significantly less so hoping someone got it to work with aqualink

What are my options for replacement lights for jandy led Lights? These are standard niche lights. I replaced one about 5 years ago or so and now all 3 again are messed up on at least some colors.

I saw one brand but it was inconclusive on whether it worked with jandy aqualink system. It would work just cycling through but I want direct access like I have now. I saw one that says it does direct access but that is it. Any other options?

I'm using a Sta-Rite PLD50 DE filter to filter my 24' round Aquasport above-ground pool. Everything was new last season. This year, from the start, I've been noticing what I think is de on the bottom of the pool after over-night filtering. Most of the time my Dolphin vacuum takes care of removing it. Still, this shouldn't be happening. I recently cleaned filter after four weeks from start-up. I added pre-measured 6 lbs of de & started-up again. Water pressure entering pool is great & pressure on gauge is about 95 psi. What could be causing this & what can be done to correct?

I installed a Sunheater (Smartpool) S240U (two 2'X20' panels) on my 24' above ground (round) pool this spring (2018). They're anchored on the ground. They replaced a 10+ year old 4'X20' panel that gave up the ghost (finally). The return flow to the pool (from the new panels) is abysmal and the back pressure on the pump is concerning (hose expansion and motor work sounds). I have diversion/mixing valves "throttled" to split return water between direct return and heater return; keeping the panel back pressure tolerable, but (obviously) that decreases the heater return even more (worthless). The two panels each have a baffle in one header. Is there an easy way to remove the baffles so the whole 2' panel is unidirectional? I read in another thread that one person's baffle fell out (accidentally) and there were further threads indicating removal was possible. Just don't know if my brand is removable nor how to do it without surgery. Found out much too late that I should have bought the Sunheater S601P which doesn't have baffles. Please advise. Thanks.

Hey, been lurking for quite awhile. I'm familiar with the method. I've used it with success In the past, but now not so much. Here are my test results

FC 2
TA 200
PH 7.0
CYA 30
CH 40

I let the FC back down to take these tests. I've been keeping it at about 12 FC per pool math. I can tend to it 2-3 a day because of work. First few days it switched from green to this opaque blue color. Maybe 14 inches of clarity before my hand disappears. I backwash at least twice a day and and scrub the sides every other day. I have a pool cleaner robot going about 6 hours or more a day. The only thing on the bottom are new leaves that have fell from the tree that day.

I need some help on how to solve this. I have gone through at least 30 bottles of chlorine and I'm not seeing progress. Started around June 20ish it's now July 6th.

It's about a 11800 gallon 24' round pool. I'll attach pictures of the pump, filter ,pool color ect.

Hello, I have a pebblec pool and an issue started after my EX pool guy(I do all stuff with TFP now) dumped 2 pounds of CYA and let it sit in the deep end.

After wards a dark stain/damage appeared where the CYA sat. The strange thing is that the dark spots are showing up more as time goes on.
I did at CYA myself in the area but used a legging and dangled it in the water while agitating it with a 2 by 4. The CYA that left the legging over about 6 hours time as very vine/diffuse and the pump was running the whole time. I have SLAMMED the pool recently and passed the overnight test.

Any help on repair/stain mitigation is greatly appreciated.

We just opened our brand new pool at the beginning of May, 2 weeks in we got this strange yellow ring around the whole pool above the water line. We initially thought it was algae however it does not scrub off at all. We shocked the pool, I tried asorbic acid on it, vinyl cleaner, yellow algae eliminator and nothing the stain does not budge. We got our water tested 3-4 times last week and there are no metals and our water is crystal clear please help!

Hey all - I have a Polaris P825 that is going into it's 5th functional year. Last fall I had a problem with it not moving when on; since then I've replaced the motor, the brush rollers, brush scrubbers, tracks, and exhaust vents - basically everything but the cord. Once replaced, the cleaner has been working great.

This week, however, I started having a new problem - I put the robot in the water, turn on the control unit, start the cleaning cycle, and within seconds the unit turns off. It's doing that 100% of the time now. Does anyone know why the unit (control unit itself) would just turn off? Is that a built-in shut down if a fault/short is detected? I can't believe I have a problem with the robot itself since it's pretty much rebuilt. I've done a quick scan of the cord from the control unit to the robot and don't see any obvious issues (just some normal wear & tear). Also note, the unit is plugged into a GFCI outlet, and it's not tripping.

Any advice/help is appreciated - I really don't want to buy a new robot, especially after rebuilding this one!

I see they have their 60K system on sale for $950 and strongly debating getting one.

I have a BlueWorks SWG system (replaced a Hayward. I have a BW cell - that I think is going bad. I have a Hayward cell that I think is good (several years old), and also have a ChlorWorks cell. All are giving me different salt readings. Leslie's says 2800. The BW is saying 2100 - low and will not generate CL. The Hayward is saying 5100 - too high, but still generating. The CW is saying 6100 - too high, but still generating. I don't know what "truth" is, but I suspect I should trust Leslies as the baseline. Anyone know of a way to calibrate a SWG so that it will read the baseline?

I was wondering if using GPM or RPM is better when setting different programs in the intellicenter. I assume GPM is better in theory since it adjusts based on filter resistance and other things but I wasn't sure if it's actually that smart/ good.
Also I noticed that the set GPM in the pump is not the same as what my FlowValves show. For example I set the pump GPM to 40 GPM and the pump shows it's running at 40 GPM but the FlowValve shows 55 GPM - is that just the inaccuracies in the system?

Another thing I noticed is that when I set the pump for example in the solar circuit to 40 GPM it sometimes runs at 50 GPM for whatever reason.

I emptied 80% of my pool to clear out CH and CYA and I have some green algae in my black Marcite pool.
How can I get rid of the green algae?

Do I refill and then shock or clear out the algae before refil?

If the latter what is the best way?
Thanks

My pool is about 5 weeks from fill. The pool installer gave very little information and training and I have been using TFP for expert assistance. Could someone advise me on setting my heater bypass valve? Should I open it completely to the heater during seasons I use the heater for the pool and spa? I have a Jandy JXI heater. How do I turn it off completely if I bypass it? I cannot find this in the online documentation. Thanks.

Jim

I got my classic in 2017 and the vac motor locked up.

When I went to buy a new motor I was shocked to hear they sold out and the company that bought them discontinued them and parts.

So I found a good used motor from a repair shop but the dope that sold it to me failed to let me know I wouldn’t be able to replace it because of the lack of any connector on the motor he gave me and mine has a waterproof shrink wrap around it. How am I supposed to work with that, I can’t.

So, now I have to go back to him and ask him to install it, which is probably what he wanted anyway. He could’ve just told me that and saved me some freaking time.

Anyway… Who is making a solid robot That’s re-buildable?

Not a vacuum driven robot, I want electric.

I’ll wait.

TIA

Can anyone point me to the fc cya chart that used to be here somewhere? Had link buy changed ohones, link list. Now cannot find chart. Was green I think. Thank you.

Hi there! Our pool builder just installed the following equipment and I'm hoping to get some insight as to if this is better or worse than what we should have had installed?

Installed: Waterway Oasis Automation Controller
Contracted: Pentair Intelliconnect Screen Logic WiFi Enabled Pool Automation

Installed: Pentair Clean and Clear 150
Contracted: Sta-Rite Posi Clear 150 Cartridge Filter

Installed: Pentair Automatic In-Line Chlorine/Bromine Feeder Model #320
Contracted: CMP In-Line Chlorinator

Now I'm also questioning if this all looks right?

Hello! I'm grateful for a community to share thoughts and ideas with. We had an intex easy-set ( 15 foot) for about 6 years when the inflatable ring gave up. We were using the paper filter pump that came with that pool.

This year we have a new intex prism frame pool ( 15'x48" ) and are currently trying to upgrade to an intex 12 inch sand pump ( intex sx 2100).

I'm new to using a sand pump, but excited to see improved filtration and hopefully less hassle cleaning the paper cartridges.

I say trying to upgrade because I bought the pump on Amazon and when I went to set it up I discovered that the fittings and hoses are 1.5 inch, but the pool has 1.25 inch outlets and inlet. Silly me, I just hoped intex would interface with more intex!
So I have been trying to be patient waiting for parts to come and will be cutting a larger opening in the inlet. Somewhat frustrating to have to do.

I enjoy the pool work, puzzling things out, balancing the chemistry......I will eventually even enjoy converting the new plumbing, it's just a hard thing to have to wait for the parts and then cut holes in a brand new pool.

Our Maine swim season is short, but wonderful!

Heidi

I asked about this a few months back I guess. One of my valve actuators randomly decides not to move it’s the one one that picks to pull from the pool or spa and caused my spa to drain. It switched fine to the spa but didn’t switch back. I played with the switch on the bottom and it didn’t move. Then I moved it manually and it started working again when I was cycling through the valve settings on the pda panel. Main question is how do I know if it’s the pda or the valve before I start buying parts to rebuild the valve?

We are having some construction done on the house that requires about a week of demo/framing where we want to put the winter cover on the pool to protect it during the process. In order to keep it clear during this hot week, my thoughts are:

1. Add a large bag of shock (3lb) the night before
2. wait an hour or two to degas (recommended from pool store)
3. Add bottle of algicide
4. Put on winter cover (all at night right before pump shuts off)
5. Pump will shut off shortly after this, but will leave on timer for the week (6am-9pm)

I'll check levels daily at the skimmer and leave swg at it's maintenance setting during demo while it's covered

Am I good? Any suggestions?

TIA

I am new to this site and am looking forward to seeing responses to solve my issue. I feel like I cut out my skimmer opening too soon, prior to installing skimmer inner face plate. Once installed, and butterfly gasket on the pool wall with liner also in between the gasket and inner wall. filled to skimmer and external leak appeared. Lowered water level and removed and replaced skimmer, re-installed and filled water. Resulted in a larger leak. Can installing a section of vinyl over the pool liner opening for the skimmer, installing inner liner face plate to skimmer opening then mounting the skimmer prior to cutting the liner patch resolve the leak without buying another liner? Pool liner is new, @3 days old. Thanks in advance for your responses.

Just starting our pool journey and have learned a lot here. Still have a lot to learn. Thank you to everyone taking time to comment and help internet strangers.

My wife and I have recently started the bid process for a pool. I have never had a pool and wasn’t really sure what I wanted initially. After seeing some neighbors pools, we have that nailed down now.

Looking to get a geometric that is about 18x32 right off our patio with a level spa within the pool centered on the 32 foot side that is perpendicular to our patio. Essentially walking off the patio into the spa. The depth will be 4.5 foot transitioning to 6 feet in the center and 4.5 feet on the other end. Getting a raised wall (12” bumping to 18” in the center) with a water feature across from the spa. We want automation and two color changing leds. Then there is about 500 sq ft of decking to add with cool deck along with adding cool deck to existing patio (20x16).

Our budget is right around $75k. From what I have gathered, that may be hard to find in a post Covid world.

Anthony & Sylvan seems to offer a lot and can get us relatively where we want to be. Anything to be afraid of with them? I’ve heard a few horror stories. Should I lower my expectations? Anything I should consider as far as options, builders go? Thanks for the help!