So my partner and I are retiling the waterline of our pool. As we chipped out the tile and grounded the thinset. It seems the “mortar bed/concrete” is in really good shape. Would we be able to acid wash it and then tile over it with thinset ? I have read online that a mortar bed is needed but it looks like the concrete underneath is still in great shape.

I tested my water this am TC high like top of the yellows in the test tube. FC only 2. I know i need to shock. But My kids swam yesterday. Now I'm freaking out about how high it was yesterday. My pH 7.2, alk higher like 110, cya 30. Are they going to get sick? I'm too anxious to own a pool. Just when I think I have it down I don't.

Hello,

It has been several years since I have had to post anything here. I have been having an issue for years that I have not been able to figure out. Since you do not clean the filter often it takes awhile until this reoccur. Leslies has never heard of it either. The issue does not happen every time but does happen often. It only happens after you clean the filter. If I get lucky and it did not pop off it will not pop off anymore until I take it apart again and then it is a 50/50 if it will stay on.

After I clean my filter and put it back together I turn the pool pump back on to get the filter full of water and flowing through the pipes. What is happening is once the filter fills it will sometimes pop the manifold off the standpipe which in return blows all the DE back in my pool. When this issue started a few years back I replaced the manifold and it did not fix the issue. I have replaced the o-ring on the standpipe a few times over the years and still no go. This baffles me as to why this is happening.

The only thing that I can think of is maybe when it is priming it is set to high. It has been set to 2500 (speed) for years. Just before writing this I had to take the top off the filter again, put the manifold back on the standpipe and this time I turned the prime down to 1250 (speed). I am not certain this is the cause or not as it does not happen every time.

I had to shock my pool several days ago due to an algae issue, it is not fully cured but I need to figure out the cause of this manifold issue.

When the filter has been cleaned I have always opened the valve at the top and kept it open until it starts shooting water out the spout. Then I will regulate it until all the air escapes. I always thought that is how I am supposed to do it. Maybe what could be happening as well is keeping it open during prime may be the issue. Could that cause the manifold to pop off once it starts shooting water out and I close the valve?

I really need someone's professional opinion as this is something I have not been able to figure out. And google has no mention of this happening to anyone else.

I attached a few pictures. One with what it looks like when the manifold pops off, one at the higher prime setting and lastly the lower prime setting I just did before posting this here.

Please help on this issue.

Thanks,

EricO

FloridaPoolNewbie said:

Dealing with very hot days and tons of rain here in Florida which is causing lower than normal FC. I’m worried about running my SWG at a higher value (currently 50 bumped up to 75) that may cause premature cell failure vs supplementing liquid as a band aid. The SWG is about 5 years old.

Click to expand...

Hey there, im in in the same boat as you also in florida!! I'm in PSL (between orlando and Palm beach) and am also struggling to keep my FC between 1-4ppm. I've been supplementing with liquid chlorine and am currently running my SWG at 85% for 9hrs of the day.

I also seem to be losing salt which i would assume is because of the heavy rain, ive been adding 1 40Lb bag of sale about every 45 days. How have your salt levels been?

We have a Swim Pro Voyager cartridge filter. We replaced the o-ring on the filter, as it was stretched, but we still have a leak at the lock ring. Hayward’s site lists the latches for the lock ring. Are they difficult to change? One of our clips has the lightened plastic strain look, so I’m thinking that may be the culprit. Has anyone else experienced this?

Hey all,

I spent some summers as the "pool boy" at my house growing up. Now as of recently I'm a pool owner again and refreshing my knowledge. Looking forward to learning here. Already ordered the TF-100.

Hello everyone,

I’m very new here and made the mistake of using phos-out and then further exacerbating things by adding floc to the pool. I’m staying away from the pool store water checks and their recommendations. I promise!

I have vacuumed 2 times to waste during this time but it never got crystal clear and have been adding 5ppm liquid chlorine to the pool for days as recommended until I received the kit. Nothing has been added to the pool in the last 9 hours. Last was the chlorine early this morning.

These are the results. Edit to add: test kit results (sorry)

FC-10
CC-.5
pH-7.9
TA-70
CH-275
CYA-120

I know that last number is not good and from everything I’m reading is probably because of the Frog Bacpacs we had been using.

Based on most of what I’m seeing on this site I need to dump water. My question is how much? 1/4 of the pool?

I have not really posted. I believe my signature is loaded but if not my pool is above ground, 8300 gal, EC40 de filter with a 1HP pump. Im now using liquid chlorine and have removed the frog system completely.

Thank you for any help you can provide!!

I did some quick testing but the intellichlor lights never started blinking in spillway mode no matter what setting I put on pool or spa in the chemistry menu. I'm not sure if it's because I needed to wait longer but I'd rather just get the answer from someone who knows.

Does anyone have a parts list for the Dolphin Nautilus Supreme? My google-fu failed me today.

I figured out what part broke that seized the center brush (the bearings on one side) but can’t find a part number to email Maytronics and ask. All they want is to start a RMA shipment online which is way overkill.

Unless shipping the entire robot back is only way to go?

B

Hi,
A couple of years ago, TFP had articles promoting the use of borax to control algae.

The content appears to be gone?

What changed on this topic?

Hi all, I did a lot of research, and I'm finding it tough to know if I will be putting the pool plumbing components in the right order.
Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I just installed a 9-ft. by 13-ft. by 4-ft.-deep semi-inground pool with a vinyl liner.

A waterproof plumbing pad will be about 10 to 15 ft. away in a nearby shed where the floor is about 3 ft. below the water level in the pool—so all of the plumbing is slightly below the level of the top of the pool water, but above the bottom of the pool.

There is one skimmer and one return inlet on one long side of the pool, and there is another return inlet on the other long side. I'm running about 15-20 feet of 2-in. PVC from the skimmer, and I was considering running a dedicated 1.5-in. line for each of the returns.

I'm trying to figure out the best layout for all the parts in the shed, and I'm thinking the following makes sense...but let me know:

• 2 inch line from skimmer coming out of the shed floor
• 2 inch ball valve
• pool pump (with unions on both ends)
• cartridge filter (with unions on both ends)
• 2 inch check valve
• zinc anode
• inline chlorinator
• (with unions on both ends; might replace with SWG eventually)
• Jandy style 3-port valve
• two 2 inch to 1.5 inch reducers
• two 1.5 inch lines, each directly to one of the return inlets

My main questions are:

1. Do I only need one check valve?
2. If so, do I have it in the right location?
3. If I need more than one check valve, where do they go?
4. Is it unnecessary to have a Jandy valve splitting the flow to the two return lines? (could I just have a ball valve before I split the plumbing...meaning will I never have a reason to adjust the flow between the return or turn one off and have the other on?)
5. Should I have any valve allowing me to drain the system? (if I don't need the Jandy valve for the returns, I could put the valve some where in the system to allow the extra port to be a drain.)

Thanks!
- Rob

(below is a very rough layout of just the plumbing pipes running between the pad and the pool)

I'm getting DE back in the pool. I have not yet inspected anything and wondering if it's more common to have a cracked manifold or torn grid in the filter, or an issue with the spider gasket in the multiport? It's my understanding that any of these issues can result in DE coming back into the pool.

Morning! I’ve so much appreciated this site as it has taught me to do my own pool balancing for first time in my pool life. Pool has been up 7 months here in phoenix and has been rock solid following all the TFP principles. I am leaving for 2 weeks and no pool company does temp service in my area and no friend that I could rely on to step in. My question is can I just put some pucks in the skimmer basket and make sure PH is on the lower side as I leave (as I add acid regularly here in AZ). Any advice would be appreciated

Hello all,

We just recently bought a house with a pool that we knew had some issues. We have had terrible luck in having pool "professionals" fix it (but end up making it worse).

We have a single speed that now leaks at the seals and we were contemplating replacing the pump with a intelliflow3 vs, however, the pool company told us that it is not compatible since we have an easy touch 4 automation system. I have looked online to verify and have not found anything to confirm that.

To the experts, is it correct that the new intelliflow3 vs pump is not compatible with the easy touch 4 system? I am being told our easy touch 4 system is original to the house back in 2007 which means it is too dated.

From a reliability standpoint, what are the pros and cons running the unit on 120v?
Reason. Yolink has an extreme range 120 outlet that could directly control the unit, or if 220v better, a dpst relay.
I do already use their temp monitor system for the freezers.

I am still 99% sold on the Sonoff solution, just throwing this out there for being able to present an alternative to my daughter. Planned new owner of the house.

Been lurking here for awhile and we're 75% complete with pool build, but getting nervous that I'm forgetting something and their pouring our deck tomorrow so that's pretty much game over as far as making any changes...We are in month 4 of the project.

Quick overview of pool:
13.5 x 34
3' to 6' depth
7' x 7' square raised spillover spa

Premix Marbletite Freestone pebble finish in Azure (concerned this may be too dark blue?)
4x6 waterline ceramic tile (Indiano Blue)
mosaic glass tile for spa (variable blue colors with darker indigo)
Caribbean cream colored spray deck (lightest color offered--like a cream white)

3 deckjets
2 globrite LEDs

Intellichlor VSF
200 SF filter
IC40 Intellichlor
SQ145 Aquacal Heat Pump

Screen enclosure in bronze

Pool is in Melbourne, FL. They put the electric for the lights on one side to connect with existing power and then the pool pad will be on the other side of the house. Works well to keep the sound down. We are doing a spray deck not pavers and a square coping versus a cantilever more in line with the look we were going for.

I could attach some pictures of the build in progress if it helps. Just wanted to drop a quick line on here for any of the gurus and see what you thought. Our price has definitely increased from our original quote two years ago and we've upgraded the tile--an $8K upgrade to do glass with elastomeric grout. All in we're at $115K.

Thanks for any insights into what I may be missing or ways to make it better.

We put in a pool about 17 years ago and I've learned a lot about pools over that time and fixed a lot of basic issues. The one thing i have never gone into is the pool heater, which is now the thing that is broken. I don't mind repairing stuff as long as I've got good advice and maybe get pointed toward a good video or two. I have followed this forum off and an on over the years and have used some of the tips I've found on here. It always seems like a very knowledgeable, sincere group. As long as everyone speaks slowly and uses small words, i feel pretty good about figuring out my pool heater problem here. Thanks!

First time pool owner. We opened it July 7th. It's a chlorine pool - 16X30 with a 3 foot tanning shelf, 2 steps down, 3 foot depth, to a 5.5 deep end (with an upside down cone to the deep end) - I'm sure there's a fancy name for that - but I'm not sure what it is. We have an auto cover that is installed under the rim of the pool (which we really love). Since we don't have a fence, I'm paranoid to leave it uncovered for any length of time. So, it's probably closed more than it needs to be - but with kids in the neighborhood, I don't want anything to happen. I have an inline chlorinator, I was using 1inch tablets, but when they ran out, I've switched to 3 inch tablets. Still getting the chlorine dialed in, it's been at 10ppm for the last 3-4 days, but I'm hoping for some sun burn off to lower that a bit. We live in Central Indiana, we have a heater, we'll see how late we keep the pool open. Some years are 80degree Octobers, some years are snow before Halloween. I purchased an automatic water tester (Sense2) that seems to be a good way to test. I know people hate test strips (me too) but I've already purchased the automatic reader, so I'm hesitant to also spend $117 on a test kit. We have a Aiper robot cleaner - which does a decent job, but it doesn't like the slope - and it doesn't do a good job on the corners. So, I manually vacuum as needed. I'm sure there are a TON of things I'm missing, and possible doing wrong, but as of yet, no one has run screaming from the pool with their skin peeling off, so I think I'm doing OK. Looking forward to learning from the group - I've heard LOTS of good things on social media, and so far, I've gotten really good tips!

My pool lights seem to be out of sync. They are different colors, and I'm not sure what to do to re-sync them. I've tried cutting the power to hard reset, but that didn't seem to work. Thoughts?

Is chlorine just broken down by direct sunlight or does heat also break it down? In an indoor pool would you need to use any CYA? This is just a theoretical question. I don't have an indoor pool and keep the CYA level in my pool at about 40. I'm just curious.

Hi

Loat power Wed afternoon No ETA yet. They say all will be up by Sat end of day

CYA was 40 snd FC was 7 last check Tuesday

Lot if rain yesterday and mote in forecast tomorrow

Whats the best fight i can fight against algae
Temp will be in 90s until Saturday morning

Thanks

Using an iphone. I enter the current pH, total alklinity, and log the addition of borax as recommended by the app. The log that I added borax is saved, but the current pH level is not saved.
Other values I entered for FC, TA, CYA are saved.
What am I doing wrong.
Thank you.

I've been using the TFP app for a few years. My TA, once I quit chasing, has been steady 80 for months. The CH has been steadily dropping to 350 for even longer. The PH hardly moves, I add 1/2 cup acid once a week and maintain 7.8. (Keeping 7.8, not lower, is what I attribute to the TA steadiness. )
Today, CH is 1025, I tested it 6 times. TA is 40. Tested twice. I thought I had bad reagent 0012 (new bottle). Then I checked TA. Also of note the CYA dropped to 50 from 70.
Florida, there's been rain, but no more than accumulated 2" at my house during the last week.
I cannot imagine its the make up water, there's been enough rainfall to offset evaporation. What's my best course of action?

Hi there! Can anyone please help me to position the return jets correctly so that I can get my skimmer to catch the debris on top of my water? I’ll attach a picture of the drawing of our pool. The return jets are the circled “R”s pointed out by red arrows and the skimmer is pointed out by a yellow arrow! Thanks in advance!!

I bought a house that has two Super 11 pumps. One of those is a variable pump. They are both 1.5hp. I assume one is supposed tp be used for the pool features and the other for regular filtering. So should I just shut off the VS Pool pump and only use that one when running features, or leave them both on. Just seems like a waste of money having 2 pumps. Would it be better to just get rid of super 11 pumps and but a Hayward Tristar 2.7 HP VS pump that should be able to handle filtering and the features? I think that pump cost about $1900, an idea how much install would be? Thank you!

I've read mixed things about the Dolphins once they get a bit older and wondering if it's worth taking the risk on buying a used one.

I'm looking at an auction for a Dolphin E25 (maybe equivalent to the S100) that's probably 3 years old and being sold for parts as it seems to have some issues. I'm wondering if it's worth buying and trying to fix it. The availability of spare parts does seem a bit limited in the UK/EU and they're expensive enough that if you replace more than one major part you might as well buy a new robot with waranty.

Here's the description on the auction listing (and link Maytronics Dolphin E25 Robot Swimming Pool Cleaner | eBay):

Comes fully complete in good overall condition. No cracks or physical damage and tracks and cable all in good condition.

Purchased new a few years ago and has been used with out issue up until this summer.

It still works as you would expect, running through the three cycle options and moving around the pool, sucking up water strongly and climbing the walls to the water line. I can share a video as necessary of it in operation.

I had always used it with the mesh winter filters in the basket without issue. They got dirty so I threw them away with the intention of moving to use the ultra fine filters supplied originally.

These are now fitted and the robot continues to function but does not appear to capture very much in the basket. It seems to throw any items it captures up out of basket and out the top of the machine so that only the smallest out of rubbish is caught.

I have now brought a replacement cleaner and tested it with the new power supply and it works just the same. As such I believe the power supply is ok and it’s an issue with the robot. I have tested it with another set of filters which made no difference and have dissembled to clean and reassembled again, again with no difference.

As such whilst it works and runs as you would expect, I am selling as spares or repairs.

It may be a simple fix I can’t work out but I can find no one that will work on it in the uk and have exhausted my skills of diagnostics.

I have the box from the new cleaner in which I can package it. It’s the same make but a different model.

Included will be everything you need including the robot cleaner, filter basket with ultra fine filters fitted, main tether, power cable and power supply.

The power supply is the advanced Bluetooth version (the robot is not Bluetooth compatible though) and powers on and filters three the three options. As such it could be used as a spare for another robot if needed.

Click to expand...

I've got an indoor pool so have minimal debris, I'm mainly looking for something to brush the floor and walls. Am I going to waste my money trying to use this as-is for ~1/4 of the price of a new one?

Hi all, new user here. Just bought the pool Math premium subscription and starting to take matters into my own hands. Also relatively new to owning a pool.

I have a variable speed Hayward pump, in ground pool with SWG and Hayward heater.

On higher RPMs everything seems good, but on lower RPMs, say around 1725rpm, I am noticing the pump basket seems to have a lot of splashing around in it. I can also hear "sloshing" / "chugging" in the heater as if water is pushing around but not at full stream (note the heater is off). I'm trying to figure out if this is normal, or if this is considered losing prime? Here is a video of each. Thanks all

Video 1 at 1725rpm :
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Video 2 at almost full RPM :
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I had a pool contractor install a new concrete sports pool with a Paramount floor cleaning system. When reading the Paramount manuals, it says to maintain a minimum of 22 psi at the valve. We are only getting 10-15 psi. I then looked at the equipment room (pictures are attached) and noticed the spaghetti layout, and instead of using elbows, the contractor deadheads into tees, routing back and forth, etc. He told me that's how they "always" do their pools so that you can drain the system in the winter. I'm not buying it. From your experience, is this best practice for a pool equipment, piping, etc. layout? Just by looking at it, I could reduce the number of fittings by moving things around and using some thought in the layout. Am I missing something here? I need another 10-15 psi at the Paramount valves too.

I had a new liner installed two years ago and just this year I I noticed some rust in the skimmer...didn't think too much about it till now that I am getting ready to close the pool. I pool the trim plate off and while none of the stainless steel screws seem to be rusted, if I run my finger along the inside of the door there is rust and black particles...I also noticed that you can see the liner from behind the skimmer plate.

I'm worried that water is getting between the skimmer and the metal sides of the pool and rusting. Should they have trimmed the liner more before putting the skimmer in? I also noticed a small rust stain next to one of the pool lights as well....

I was intending to close the pool tomorrow, but I really don't want to leave it all winter like this. I usually don't drain the water below the skimmers, I just use Gizmos.

Any ideas here? I'm thinking I need to lower the water, remove the skimmer cover and see what going on, just not sure what to look for....not sure how it should be installed. Pictures attached....

Thanks

Every month I go to the local pool store to check their numbers with mine. Just on a curious level. Since March, my phosphate level has been rising. Currently, it is around 530, from 200 in March, per the pool store. I currently use the K-2006 test kit and there is no testing for phosphate. Is there a need to buy a phosphate test kit yet and any recommendations? I read online that you don't really need to worry about phosphates level until it is over 1000.
The pool is only 6,000 gallons and has an automatic cover and the water is covered 20 out of 24 hrs per day. Some days we don't even use the pool. My FC is always at the required recommendation number per pool math. Currently, it's at 8 with CYA at 50. CC is always perfect. I tend to have the FC at the high end per Pool Math. Since the pool is small adding liquid chlorine is not an issue. My water is super clear and I'm pretty anal about brushing at about 2-3 times per year.

I did some reading online at TFP and there were some recommendations for phosphate remover. Do I wait until fall/winter and if its close to 1000 then go ahead and use a phosphate remover?

Thanks,