I am looking at buying this cleaner but i cannot find it for anywhere below $1899. I saw in previous post/sales it sold a few years ago for aroun $1599, anyone have any sites that are selling this cleaner for cheaper than the $1899. Thanks all! First post here, look forward to many more.

Had a new whisperflo VST installed today because my intelliflo VST croaked. When we turned it on the salt cell started leaking a lot. Pool repairman says it’s not the switch but from the inside and needs replaced. Would pressure from the new pump cause this?

I am having trouble with my pump and I cannot turn the motor shaft manually at all. It mostly will not start at all, but when it does it will run for about 30 seconds with a high pitched sound (kind of like very loud cricket noise) and then shut off again. Should I start by replacing the capacitor even though the motor shaft seems to be stuck? Just looking for the best place to start. Thanks for any input.

I am having the same exact problem now. I added 4 gallons of shock yesterday with two yellow containers as instructed. I have 30,000. Each container is for 15,000. Completely removed all the yellow dust algae but now I have zero chlorine. Added a gallon today and waited an hour for circulation and took another reading. Still zero chlorine.

How much did you have to add before getting chlorine readings?

We recently replaced our solid safety cover with a mesh cover (going mesh saved us money which is one of the reasons we chose it). We have no internal way to drain our pool below the skimmer...will that be low enough to last us during the winter without an overflow? We live in northeast Arkansas, and plan to open in late April or early May.

New pool owner here. Old pool, old equipment.
We are experiencing air leak, on suction side, I think. The filter canister seems to bubble with incoming air when the pump is shut off, and has to be bled to get suction at vacuum port.
Also unable to separate skimmer and vacuum, which is a new development. Pool store suggested the first 3way valve diverter was bad.
All 3 valves have had diverters and o-rings replaced, as a first step elimination. But air still collects.
This seems to be a tangled mess, that I am hoping to replumb, without all of the elbows. It looks like previous owner has already added and subtracted at the valves, making use of adapters, so I'm thinking we will need to replace the valves, anyway. Yes?
Looking for advice that isn't super expensive.
Thanks in advance!

12,000 chlorine pool, been using the pucks for about a year now. i know, i know, CYA can go up, i have now discovered, thereby needing higher levels of chlorine. i know the ideal solution is to empty part of the pool to get rid of some of the CYA. im wondering if there are any other options besides this that anyone else has had luck with. starting to see some yellow/green spots in corners, nothing horrible, but i can see it starting to proliferate.

i dont have the test kit that TFP members like, i will get it soon. so in the meantime, took pool water to Leslies and this is the data reported

FC - 4.45
TOTAL CHLORINE - 4.45
PH - 8
TOTAL ALKALINITY - 65
CALC HARDNESS - 216
CYA - 115
PHOSPHATES - 453
TDS - 700

i saw this product while at leslies. does this work at all? or is the only option to empty pool and start using liquid chlorine?

We are looking to buy a new cleaner just as soon as possible. We are deciding between the Dolphin M600 and the Active 60. Has anyone ever compared the two?

Our pool started to get randomly cloudy a week or so ago. I checked everything and the water was balanced had plenty of chlorine then vacuumed and shocked it. The next couple days it kept getting worse which I then noticed that the pump had some air and now I've been having to bleed the filter several times a day so clearly ots not filtering the water at full capacity. The pool is about to turn green now. I've replaced the o ring on the filter housing and checked the o ring on pump. no cracks or leaks that we can notice. I'm all.oit of troubleshooting and the place we bought the pool , they are not helpful. the pump and cartridge filter is hayward , it's an aboveground 24ft. it's all only 5 years old. This is my last stop before calling a professional to look at it.

Shocking my pool, using this: HTH® Pool Care Shock Advanced which is 56% Cal-Hypo
Never used it before, normally use liquid chlorine, but stores around are out

My Ph has shot from 7.7 to 8.3 in a span of 4 days. Ive not added anything else. Anyone else seen this? Pool School app says C-H isnt suppose to raise Ph.
And before someone asks, this was tested with both an electronic tester and a Taylor test, same reading for both.

To me this is highly odd, as normally Im fighting low Ph not high Ph in this pool (which from what Ive heard is a little odd for a SWG, which is suppose to raise Ph, and hasnt been running much while shocking).

Already working on fixing it (mur acid) just wondering if anyone has seen this effect from this product. If not a warning to others.

Hey guys,

Still trying to figure out how to have a diving board and slide given the two enormous and entirely unnecessary safety envelopes. Pool builder will not install overlapping envelopes.

So here’s the next question -
According to the safety standards are shallow end transitions of 1:7 required? Or can I have my slope entirely at the 1:3 ratio? Logically if 1:3 is allowed closer to a dive entry then allowing it after should work from diving perspective. It would only be if that slope was considering unsafe in the shallow end?

Like many, I want to maximize the entirely flat 3.5ft shallow end while still having an 8ft diving pool. Being able to transition from 8-3.5 over 1:3 ratio would mean only 13.5 feet of sloped pool.

Thanks



Thanks

I have been slowly noticing the two LED pool lights are shing more of a green than a white...the water is clear. Has never needed shocked in a year. Have never had cloudy water. Any ideas? Lens dirty or something? If so, a way to clean? Warranty claim? The lights are definetely on white because when i shift to green, it gets greener.

Have a 30k pool and my single speed Jandy pump finally gave in. New capacitor didn't help. My pool guy is recommending the AquaStar Pipeline Variable Speed Pump 3HP. Anyone heard or have any experience with this brand? I would also welcome any recommendations. Any insight is much appreciated. Thank you!

I'm replacing my skimmer in my in-ground Hatteras pool.....My original issue was an air leak on the supply side and everything above ground tested good and the underground pipe failed a pressure test.
Removed concrete after leak detection company heard a leak at the skimmer. After I dug down I also found a leak in the pool light niche. Hopefully, I've got that patched up.

The Heyward Skimmer (model 1084) has rigid 1.5" PVC coming from the bottom and transitions to a flex pipe (I'm assume, for now, it's flex PVC, but I will call the installation company this week). There is a metal (iron), most likely barbed device that connects the two pipes and there is a hose clamp around the edge of the flex pipe. This looks strange to me. But I'm here for the real answer.

What is the correct procedure to connect flex PVC to solid PVC and done correctly? I don't want to have to dig up concrete again for the same issue.

Thanks!

Using Aqua Prologic Goldline System for last 10 years. Replaced OEM Salt Cell last year with Aqua Coastal Salt Cell. Pool runs fine and water was crystal until last week. Whole pool turned green as Salt Cell error. Tried running chlorinator manually but it didn't start and failed to start with error Chlorinator off sensor fault and further diagnostics shows Cell Temp Sensor Short Circuit. Bought new Temp Sensor but getting same error. Need some help if it is possible by pass cell temp sensor check. Heater works just fine.

Any help is appreciated. Missing my crystal clear water.

Good evening. I have 2 large led lights in pool and 1 small one in spa. Went to change color to Alpine white and one of the large ones ISNT lighting up . Very dim . If I change to a different color it works fine . Has any ever experienced this ?

I have a few spots around my pool where the mastic - which just looks like caulk to me? - is sinking. Is this something to be concerned with? and how much urgency to get it fixed (if any)?

Pool is 2.5 years old, 3rd summer using. Concrete patio on left of picture with a spraycoat. Coping on the right is Leuder stone.

I am investigating the possibility of getting a heat pump for my pool. Natural gas is not available and propane is crazy expensive for me. Since I have a small pool I think a heat pump will work great. Anyways I was looking at the easy touch to see how you can control the heat pump. I was a little disappointed that it doesn't look like you can have much control on when and if the heater turns on other than a single temp set point. What I would like to do is have an automated bypass that turns on as well as being able to run the heat pump only during the daytime hours. Since I don't have a spa but I have the spa function on my controller. I thought I could use the spa function and set that to my pool temp and wire my pool thermistor into the spa header. If I understand it right I can then set spa to run from say 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. during the warmest part of the summer days to heat the pool and not run during the cooler nights. This would also activate the automatic valve bypass that I plan to install.

Just looking to see if this seems feasible?

I have a set of Permacast Big Boy 6 inch brass anchors and a the metal plate.
What is the best way/ method to install these in a paver deck. ???
I plan on pouring a 2x2 ft concrete pad then installing the anchors... but not sure on the best way to attatch the plate
and cups to the concrete... set in concrete with bolts or drill and epoxy into concrete or what ?

Hey all,
2nd time I've done the TFE-100 kit test. Hoping someone can help.
Pool has been a bit cloudy past week. My dad says its a 35k gallon pool.
I added a bag Clorox CYA stabilizer via the 'sock-placed-in-filter' method last week to raise my CYA.
We have had a bit of yellow-green algae in the pool a week and a half ago as well. I added a whole bottle of Liquid Chlorine (which got the FC level the next day around: 4.5, CC: 1, TC: 5.5).
You can see FC settled down to 2 below.

Here are my current readings:
PH: 7.2
FC: 2
CC: 0.5
TC: 2.5
Calcium: 350
Alkalinity: 110
CYA: ? 20 ? (i got to the top and it was getting pretty blurry but i could still make out the black dot at the bottom).

Not sure if it helps... Here is video of the pool and how cloudy it is and just showing our Triton II sand pump working I assume correctly (I wasn't sure the optimal PSI, but we do backwash it weekly):
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Here is some general questions about CYA test to make sure I did it correctly:
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Thanks!
Ari

Not having much with getting anyone out to look at our issue so I’m holding out hope someone here has had a similar experience. The top stone was dislodged two weeks and pulled away from the mortar joint. In between it happening and getting put back we had some really heavy rain. We aren’t losing any water from the pool or the spa BUT there now seems to be a constant drip from directly below the piece that disconnected. It’s been a week now that it’s been dripping. It doesn’t increase or decrease when the pump is on or off. If I suction with a shop vac I can pull a bit of water, weirdly more over the last few days than when it started. Is it absolutely crazy to think there has been water accumulating through the very small mortar cracks and crevices over the last two years and it’s finally found it’s way out through this pin hole?? Is filling and sealing the hole a bad idea? Will not releasing the water in there cause bigger issues over time? Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated!

Hello from northeast FL! I have 3 different PBs giving me proposals. I have so many questions because research is often contradictory! I'm considering a smaller free for gunnite without bells and whistles. Previous pool at other house was AG 27' round with ionizer. Never had any problems. In ground has so many choices.
1. I'm seeing this forum leans towar salt and SWG. Right?
2. Do PBs always take months to submit a proposal? I swear a simple change takes them weeks to modify and/or respond to questions.
3. Is rectangle easier to clean via robot?
4. DE filter no matter what?
5. Why are all PBs forcing me toward travertine for deck? I want porcelain pavers and have it picked out. I don't get it.

Thanks in advance!

iChlor 30 never has any white buildup on it. The blades are slightly tarnished looking, but that's it.
Is there any point in acid cleaning?
Most I read indicates acid cleaning takes some life out of the cell.
To be honest I haven't cleaned it in two seasons (~ 1600hrs) and the cell seems to be doing the job so looking for input.
My feeling is don't mess with.

So I added enough salt to get me to 3740. The red light is saying salt is low. Is that the normal reaction from an IC 40? The salt will go down to 3600 i a week or two but will it make chlorine during the over-salted period?
Bart

Have a T9 -25,000 gal in ground
Can it be changed to a T15 40,000
Gal
Can the Blue Essence board be reprogrammed

My house was built in 1985. There is a back flow valve but if I close it off, it doesn't appear to shut off the autofill lines. Should I care?
I am trying to sort out the plumbing. We have a very minor leak and the autofill Iines were pressure tested and didn't find anything. Now I just want to be sure the back flow would cover the pool. Why would it be there for any other reason?

Images - three images of water line into house.
Fourth image are the the autofill lines. There are two turn off valves. One on the right turns off both pool and spa autofill. One on the left is a mystery and I don't know what that line goes too. If you look at the first picture right before the hose line there is a line that goes underground. I am not sure where this goes either.

Any thoughts or insights to this puzzle are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Have these strange circular marking on bottom of pool. It didn’t respond to chlorine pucks or vitamin C. I’m guessing the plaster is old maybe? We just bought the house, so it could be age.

You can also see clear footprints in some spots, wondering if the old owner had a bad plaster job? It used to be a SWG pool, but they took it off as it was rented. After a shock is when I noticed the stains.

Besides these stains everywhere, the pool is great chemically as far as I can tell from the k2006C.

I need some opinions here... I currently have a Hayward T15. It is 6 years old and no longer reading correct salt values.
The new T15 is $899 on Amazon and $1300 at my local pool store.
I would like to hear from people that have purchased other alternatives.
What did you purchase?
Where did you purchase it?
How long has it lasted?
Would you purchase it again?

Thanks.

Hey all,

I could definitely use some expert advice on this one! We recently had a power spike that flipped our circuit breaker for the pool equipment. When I got everything back up and running, all of our equipment came back online properly except for the Jxi Heater. It seemed to be DOA.

Following instructions on other threads, I opened the unit and noted that the Power Circuit Board and the Transformer were both properly blown and fried out. I swapped them both out yesterday and then got to the following current state:

1. Fuse is 2A and didnt blow on the 24vac side of the new transformer, but I dont detect any power (maybe I'm checking wrong with my multimeter?)

2. Circuit board for the "brains" appears to be totally fine on the 24vac side - but I dont detect any power on any of the pins.

3. The transformer itself is brand new, and I have no idea how to check that its receiving or converting and sending power properly.

4. The PCB board I swapped out and I can see that its receiving 240V into it, and sending out of the 3pin connector for the transformer.

I can definitely use some help at this point - I'm not sure where to go next, or what to check next. Im considering calling Jandy as my next step, but you all seem so smart so I figured I would start here first.