Hi PoolGeniuses,
Religious follower of the TFP methods here. I test at home almost daily with Taylor Kit. I maintain my Chlorine levels per TFP chart (where is the old chart? I liked being able to see the whole table - the updated page is too fancy for me). Every so often, I go into Leslie's to buy chemicals and at the same time I have the water tested to compare their results to my own. They always tell me my phosphates are high, and I always ignore their recommendations to treat.
I have always had high phosphates (lots of landscaping around pool, etc.), but as expected they got even higher after I did a couple Metal Magic treatments last season (I have small amounts of Iron that I try to sequester to prevent stains). The phosphates are now reading 4000-6000 on pool store tests (I don't have the Taylor test for this).
I am thinking about treating the phosphates just to get them down to a more reasonable baseline, and to shut up the people at Leslie's. I will likely do a preventative MM dose at some point which I know will increase phosphates again. Questions...

1.) Should I bother to treat them? I have never had an algae issue, and I maintain proper TFP Chlorine levels. But still... 6000ppm seems like a lot.
2.) Best method to treat them? Any experience with SeaKlear Phosphate Remover? (No thank you to the 5+ gallons of Leslies diluted product that I would need)
3.) Do I need a clarifier if I use SeaKlear? Or can I just wait for the filter to clear it? I will start with a small dose and see how quickly it clogs up the filter. I have a cartridge filter so it will be a giant pain to remove this much phosphate... which is why I have avoided doing it thus far.

Thanks!!

After 7 years of use (4 months a year), my Pool pilot Nano has died and now I'm probably going back to just using a simpler using liquid bleach.

A little history: I was getting a low amp- check cell warning and running the test showed 0 amps and no output. Bought a new cell but the same warning happened. Took the head unit to the shop where I bought it and after internal inspection, I was told the unit itself is bad.

At $1300 (Entire new unit) for a replacement, it's a big chunk of money. I realize the advantage and convenience of my pervious SWG unit. Purchased it for $1100 7 years ago so the until cost me about $150/year without taking the cost of salt into account.

I searched TFP for some form of liquid chlorinators but most of the threads are old.

Hoping for some feedback here. Am I wrong in not replacing the SWG?

Link to pump https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0311700.pdf

Link to Aqualink panel https://www.pioneerfamilypools.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/aqualink_pda.pdf

When I power on the vs pump, it goes to what sounds like full speed (I don't have the plumbing hooked up, just the motor without the wet end attached just for testing purposes so I don't burn up the seal since there is no water flowing through the wet end). I have set the pump so it primes at 600rpm and the default speed for 600rpm, but it just stays at full speed. I have tried the RS485 communication wire with and without the red wire connected since the pump manual says to use all 4 wires, and the Aqualink manual says to only use the black, yellow & green. The voltage between L1 & L2 is 240VAC. The red RS485 wire voltage is 10v.

I have only 3 high voltage wires connected to the pump, 2 hot and one ground. Is this correct for a VS pump, just these 3 wires? The wires are coming from a relay so the pump doesn't get power all the time, just when the timer for the pump comes on and then the green LED on the pump lights up, and a few seconds later the pump comes on at full speed. I am using the wiring from a Jandy single speed Stealth pump so I'm assuming it works with the variable speed?

I bought the ePump used off kijiji so it is possible the speed pump drive electronics are faulty and that's why I can't control the speed, but also maybe I'm wiring it incorrectly. I have gone through the Aqualink PDA menu several times and tried all different settings, but the pump just starts up at full speed and stays there.

What would be the best way to troubleshoot the issue, anyone familiar with the Aqualink RS & the Jandy ePumps? Perhaps my Aqualink doesn't have the required revision, although the handheld does have the ability to program the variable speed pumps.

New pool owner, learning to take care of the pool myself. Small town so I don't have access to a lot of resources. I have 1 pool store that test water with test strips. I recently fired my pool guy because he never shows up and doesn't know what chemicals to add. I just ordered a taylor k2006 test kit. Looking forward to learning

I have been reading a lot of the questions and answers on run time and speed for VSP. I am a new pool owner, 27.5k gallons, 3HP Intelliflo VSF and a FNS Plus DE filter and SWG.

I currently run my pump for 12 hours at 2.8k RPM which turns my pool over 1.5times. Should I run my pump at 1.4k RPM for 24 hours? How could I calculate the cost difference. Still trying to figure out the best runtime and speed at the lowest cost.

Hi All,

Searched for this and can’t seem to get a definitive answer. I have a Thursday fiberglass Aspen pool , rectangle. 3 return jets. How should I point them for most efficient circulation and skimming? See pic. Yellow are jets, red is where the skimmer is. Thanks team!

Gonna leave this here in case someone needs it in the future. Had to switch my main breaker off to do some unrelated work, and when I switched it back on, my indoor pool controller was frozen with all lights on. Resolution:


page 12:

2. The microprocessor was hit by a power surge. Turn off all power to the system. (If the PCB is prior to Revision N, disconnect the nine (9) volt battery.) Wait two (2) minutes and then turn the power on. If this frees up the system, you will need to reset the time and date, except with a Revision N board. Programming will not be lost. It is advisable to install a Surge Protection Kit.

Click to expand...

I have swg pool with spa and spillover along with a raised tanning ledge with spillover to pool that only has returns. I have installed and configured valve3 for the ledge returns.

Seems all timers will run with the filter operation set in the configuration menu so using spa spillover mode I can chlorinate the pool and spa but need to access my panel( I have a remote) to set pool mode, activate valve3 and chlorinate the ledge.

I don't see a way around this.

Is there a higher level of automation that can fully automate the pool, spa and ledge?

Thanks
Joe

Do these need to be cleaned out ever or chemically treated? I backwash and rinse, but have never done anything more than that.

Some times my pump basket has water filled in it that it looks like there isn't any water in there at all. Other ties there is n air pocket (gap) between the top of the basket and the lid. Other times there are big air ripples/waves in the basket. I have inspected the gasket/rubber tube around the inside of the lid and it looks ok to me, but I can't get it out. Whats the trick to get it out. I haven't really checked any other places for air leaks.

I'm reviving this thread from 2017 Gimme your pool jam list!

Tired of jammin' with Jimmy?
Tired of kickin' it with Kenny?
Is zippin' along with Zac gettin' a little old?
Too much sand in your old Beach Boys LPs grooves?
Here's a list of some lesser known bands with some pretty good summer pool side songs to peruse even though some may be old hat to a few of you here:
Yeah.........I got bored and cruised Spotify!
Eric Stone
Southern Drawl Band
The Detentions
Jesse Rice
Wheeland Brothers
Jimmy Parrish and the Ocean Waves Band
Howard Livingston & the Mile Marker 24 Band
Jake and the Half Conched Band
Feel free to add on!

Im new to this, filled my new pool mid December so this is my 1st summer. I read a lot of threads here to educate myself and became very CYA Conscious.

3 weeks ago, I tested my water and my CYA was at about 29 so I used dichlor shock to get it up to around 35. I then switched to Cal Hypo. My pool started looking poor towards the end of last week, I cannot keep my dogs out of it, so I added a lot of chlorine. Today it looks ok (a little cloudy), but not pristine so I did a full test with my TFT Test kit and was shocked and could use some advice.

Here are my levels TFT (Leslie

FC - 1 (Leslie .5)
CC - .5 (Leslie 1.3)
PH - 7.5 (Leslie 7.6)
TA - 50 (Leslie 55)
CH - 275 (Leslie 275)
CYA - overflowed no reading (took to Leslie and they said CYA was 5)

where did my CYA go? Where did my AK go?

I have slammed my pool for the past couple days, I will add 2 lbs of cal hypo tonight. I also got a small bucket of TriChlor for my feeder since I have one and have never used it and my CYA is low. Not sure what to do.

Pool Chemistry... UGH!!!

Hi all,

I have a couple of sunbrella holders (sleeves) in our pool, which is built in the concrete. The model is Aquastar US101, and the inner diameter of the sleeve is 1 5/8. Now, most umbrellas the pole is 1.5", which I am afraid will be very wobbly and perhaps damage the sleeve (which is made of plastic). So in stead of being creative with some duct tape, as other have suggested, to increase the diameter, to make a snug fit, I was wondering if you know where to buy an umbrella with a 1 5/8 pole? And yes I have used Google very much, and all poles are 1.5". My alternative is to buy a carbon or glass fiber pole with OD of 1 5/8 and make is myself, since I would not like a metal product in the pool water. The problem then is the "upper part" of the umbrella, which will still be 1.5".

Thoughts and suggestions are very welcome!

Thanks.

Live a little south of Lake Conroe. First experience with a salt water pool - previously owned 3 non salt water pools.
My thoughts are the salt water set up is easier to maintain........ but when stuff turns sour it could get to be expensive.

First real issues with the salt water system in four years. Compareing the cost of chlorine against the component replacements of the salt water system, I still believe I'm money and effort ahead.

Thanks in advance for all the sage advice I expect to get here.

Mike

Recently had a Pentair IntelliFlo installed and I wanted opinions on what everyone thinks is better used for the pump setting. Should I use GPM and set it so that I get one turnover per daytime run hours or should I use RPMs at a set speed? I am sure this can vary from pool to pool but wanted input on what others have chosen as the best option. Thank you.

Any downside to replacing a CC150 with a CC200?

I have been screwing around with tech support for a number of weeks and spent way too much time on the phone. After 15 minutes on hold I am done. So apparently nobody is there? And that is on any option presented by the robo answer machine.

If there is anyone who has contact information beyond what’s offered Id appreciate being able to get through and be able to properly use my system.
Thanks!

Moved from here.
Did you ever figure out what this was? I'm finding similar looking pieces at the return of my pool. My heater is 1 year old, and I would be very surprised if it's corrosion on the heat exchanger.

I have a 48 inch height by 16 foot diameter intex above ground pool. My yard is sloped so I had to dig down to level the pool. At one end the height from ground to top of pool is only 36 inches so I was thinking of getting something like these steps for an easier outer entry than the ladder. If I was able to find something at the right height it could be a nice makeshift deck so someone could sit on the edge of the pool. Unfortunately I haven’t seen many other options and this one is only about 2 feet high at the top step. Has anyone seen anything similar available or have a similar set up. I’m not really handy enough to build my own and that would probably require approval from the HOA.

Thanks.

I’m just checking before I tear my filter apart and take the sand out and then replace the laterals on the filter.

Hi All:

I very rarely post because I've never had a problem I couldn't figure out based on the amazing help here, but on this one I'm a bit baffled (or maybe I just need some encouragement to continue forging ahead). Went on vacation for a few weeks, and had a pool company come and service the pool while we were away; by the time they came for the first service, the pool was already very green, and they couldn't get a handle on it. (Not knocking the company, I think it went too long with no chlorine before the first came). Anyway, I've had a green pool before, and always resolved it with chlorine, brushing, and time using the SLAM process, which usually takes 1-2 days to go from green to cloudy, then another few days for the filter to clear it out.

Anyway, the part that's confusing me is that the chlorine is not dropping much overnight, but the pool remains very green (unable to see the bottom). I've attached a picture of the stairs, and here are the numbers (tested myself to confirm the numbers from the pool store) from this morning:

FC: 11 (started at 13 after sundown)
CC: 0
CYA: ~30
TA: 70
PH: currently testing at 8.0, but before I started slamming the PH was at 7.5
I tested phosphates too, they're around 400, but this isn't my issue.

The sand filter has very old sand, so that would affect how fast it's filtering, but even if I had the filter only on recirculate, wouldn't that just give me a super cloudy pool full of dead algae? I did add some DE and the pressure went from the base 23 to 31 within a few hours. I just booked an appointment to replace the sand tomorrow.

I have a feeling the answer will be stay the course, which I will; I suppose I'm just more confused why the pool is staying green and the chlorine doesn't seem to be doing anything.

I've got a Jandy Sand Filter. The model sticker is attached. I've never replaced one of these before and the pool is about 12 years old so I am trying to find a direct replacement so I can unhook the old one, put the new one In its place, fill it with filter sand (I assume) and then hook the pipes back up. Is there more to it than that? Where can I buy a direct replacement for this online? Open to any suggestions and thank you in advance.

I have had my CircuPool RJ-45+ for a year, and the maintenance light has never come on. I do see some scaling on the cell, not completely, just some. Right now it is not generating much chlorine (my chlorine level is down to 1 PPM running at 50%, whereas it had been around 4ppm to 6ppm running at 25% to 30%). My CYA had gone down to about 50ppm but I just added two lb stabilizer, but I don't think that is enough of a decrease to justify the low output. My salt level was at 3200ppm and I just added one 40 lb bag of salt which should bring it to 3500 to 3600 ppm. I am thinking the maintenance light is inop. What is a regular cleaning schedule for a swg cell like mine?

On a second note, my pool temp is currently 86 degrees, and my Taylor salt test would not progress past the murky yellow to the salmon/brick end point, no matter how many drops I added, so I got my salt readings from a sample I brought to the pool store. Is there a temp range the test doesn't work? Should I wait for the water sample to cool to room temp?

(Added note, we have had near one month of temps in the 90's, a lot of it 95+ here in the deep south)

Hi all,
I have a 35k gallon vinyl pool.
I have struggled with a white powder deposit on the bottom and in the corners.
I test my chems regularly and have them confirmed once a week at the pool store. This past week, they said it was very good with a slightly high CYA, but not actionable level.
Every so often I get this white powder. Water is crystal clear except for the deposits at the bottom. They brush into a cloud.
I shocked twice with cal hypo and when I do the water clouds up, then clears with more powder at the bottom.
I've vacuumed to my ctg filter, cleaned and even replaced the ctgs. This process reduces the powder and then I used an Algaecide 60 and it seemed completely gone.
Some time goes by and I see tiny powder remnants. I brush and check chems. And then twice now it spreads a lot on the floor.

I feel like I'm fighting and constantly killing algae and then it gets away from me. Or is it the calcium hypo dust? Or something else?

Water is so clear, but can't completely rid of this powder problem.

This amazon LED light I installed a few years back now blows the GFCI outlet after a few seconds. I cant see any water inside of the enclosure, but I'll see for sure when I open it up. In any case, on INYO there seems to be a few Pentair lights that look like mine. I think its the Amerlite but not positive. (Pentair Amerlite Pool Light Parts - INYOPools.com) If this is it, which of the three gaskets should I get? I dont remember what I purchased last time.
Also does anyone have a recommendation for an 120v LED light?

I have a noob question for everyone. Is it a must to put tile on the waterline and infinity edge? I have one pool builder telling me you have to as diamond Brite will turn black if it is exposed out of the water. The other builder is saying you don't and the current trend he is seeing is not using tiles... Thoughts?

SLAM Process
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Hi everyone!

I just bought my first home yesterday and now I am also a first-time pool owner. I have read a lot on TFP in preparation, so I figured I would post what I have found out about my pool as well as what I plan to do with it, and get feedback!

My initial test results from yesterday evening and this morning are included here:


The previous owner has a tube attached to the outflow that he just would keep ~4 chlorine pucks in, but for my 26,000 gallon pool that is in direct sunlight in Oklahoma, I don’t think that’s quite enough to compensate for Chlorine loss.

In terms of looks, the pool appears pretty cloudy with a dull green film at the bottom of the deep end. I brushed that off this morning and started running the automatic vacuum that came with the pool.

Here is what I thought I would do:
1. Take the pucks out
2. Add liquid Chlorine to bring the pool to SLAM level (10).
3. Wait 30 min to test Chlorine levels
4. Add conditioner to bring levels to ~40
5. Continue the SLAM process until the prescribed stopping requirements on the SLAM article.

So, how did I do? Did I get it right? Would you do anything different? Any tips?

Hello,

I have been procrastinating a drain for far too long this year and am not sure how to proceed. My overall pH / FC /CYA balance is doing ok this year, but I did not drain in March as usual and have reached a CH of 675. Pool math says I should drain 33% of the pool, but from my reading here it seems like draining and exposing my pebble tec surface in temperatures >100 are potentially worse for the pool than running with high hardness. Any thoughts on how best to proceed?

It's almost time! Signed the contract in July, ordered the shell (14x30, but only ~9k gallons due to sun shelf). Got rid of my Frankenfence (per this post) and took down a beautiful oak tree . We were planning for an April build, but the shell arrived early and they'll start excavation possibly next week. Never owned a pool - anything to know about a winter install? PB said they will only fill to the closing level. Simple 3' concrete decking to follow at some point, so I am assuming there will be no winter cover this year and it will just be uncovered from now until winterization? Also getting an undertrack autocover which I guess gets timed with the concrete pour (though they haven't asked me my color choice yet...). I'm still trying to get the full info from PB.

What if it rains or snows and increases the water level above the returns (I think I'm using the correct terminology)?

Hello all. My Aqua logic says chlorinator of low voltage. Any idea what is causing this and how to fix it?