Just bought my first robot cleaner, an Aiper Smart 1500 cordless robotic pool cleaner. I saw a good deal on it from Costco for $650 so I picked it up. If it doesn't meet my needs, it is easy to return for a refund. It is also available from Amazon.

I have always wanted a robot cleaner, even though my pool has a screen enclosure which keeps out leaves and other big debris.
I don't vacuum as much as I should (especially in the hot Florida summer), and sometimes fine dirt settles on the bottom. I looked into getting a Dolphin S200 or Warrior SE from Marina, but I could never get hold of anyone there, and now their Dolphin S200 or Warrior SE robot supply is out of stock.

The Aiper came with an optional bottom wheel/roller attachment. The manual said it should be used if the robot got stuck on the main bottom drains, so I first tried it without the attachment. While the robot did not get stuck on the drains, it did get hung up on the stairs and sitting ledges. It did pick up a lot of dirt and paint flecks though. I had recently power washed the painted pool deck and this always kicks lots of paint flecks into the pool. A curse on the previous owners that painted the pool deck, that was a really bad idea.

So after running for a couple of days and getting stuck, I decided to install the optional bottom wheel/roller attachment. After running with this attachment, the robot did not get hung up anymore.

I'll keep using it daily and see how well it works. The pool does look really clean now, but I expect I will still have to brush the steps and ledges since the robot does not really clean them effectively. I think this a problem with all robots though.

Pros:
In stock (no waiting for new shipments).
Reasonable price.
Cordless (uses a 12.6V, 8.6Ah rechargeable battery) so no cord in pool.
Has a nice big cleaning brush for scrubbing.
Has a strong impeller that really pushes the water out so it has good suction.
Climbs the walls and cleans the waterline.
Doesn't get stuck on the drains, stairs, or ledges (see comments though).
Has an easy to clean medium size very fine mesh filter basket that catches the fine dirt.

Cons:
Takes around 6-7 hours to charge.
Only runs for 90 minutes, so more suitable for a small to medium size pool (like mine).
Made in China, so its durability is questionable.
No control of the cleaning pattern, just an on/off switch.

We indicated to our pool designer that we absolutely didn't want any sharp edges in our pool.
The coping that was bought for us had sharp edges and we paid additional to have the bullnose done.

The bullnose section is not polished and obviously has a different color. I brought it up with the contractor and pool builder and they said that it will match the color over time. I somehow don't believe that.

A decking guy we consulted said it is not acceptable.

What do experts here think? What can I do to have them fix it? They keep insisting that the color and texture will even out over time.

Hello everyone! I've been reading this forum for a while now and have learned a lot of great information, though I'm having a problem that I cannot seem to find an exact answer to.

TL;DR: History

I have a rectangular in-ground pool about 3 years old, approximately 18,000 gallons. This was installed by the previous owner and this is the second season for me. It is chlorine, has a sand filter, retractable cover, chlorinator and UV filter. We keep the pool covered nearly all of the time, opening it when we swim and closing it afterwards. Last year the pool was maintained bi-weekly by the company that installed it, and they opened and closed it for the seasons each time. I had been doing the general chemical maintenance and checking last in between their visits and didn't really have any issues. This year they informed me that they just don't have the resources to do pool maintenance visits and to find someone else. Given my experience last year I figured I could handle it in the meantime while I found someone else.

This year when they opened the pool at the beginning of May after being covered since end of September it was pretty murky and teal colored. They added an algicide and a lot of shock and said to give it a few days and should be fine. It seemed to clear up after a few days though given the cooler spring the water just wasn't warm enough to swim so it got very little use in May. I did periodically test it with my test strips from the previous season but was getting somewhat erratic results so just figured they were no longer good and needed new ones.

During a particularly rainy week we were out of town for about 5 days and when I came back the pool was back to being murky and teal again. The PSI on the filter was 23 (should be max 20) and when I backwashed it, it had a noticeable smell. Afterwards the PSI was back down to normal. Over the course of a few steps, I added the recommended amount of HTC algicide, shock and clarifier and waited. After a several days it began to slowly clear up, however that's when the problem really started...

The problem (finally)...

In short, the pool does not and will not hold chlorine. Over the course of the past three weeks I have probably added 20+ gallons of liquid (10%) and 2 maybe 3 containers of granulated. Consistently after about 4-6 hours the free chlorine was down to below 1, sometimes looking like 0. The CC seems to remain proportional to the FC where when one is high the other is high and when low they both are.

I continued to pour 4 to 5 gallons per day seeing the same results. We brought in a new pool company and they reported on the first visit that the pH was also very low (below their lowest measurement on their strips). I had seen this as well but was very inconsistent across the different types/brands of test strips I had used.

Intestingly, the water is crystal clear. Like... glass clear. You can see the bottom of the deep end almost as though there's no water in it. The pool company left in their notes that the water looks "awesome" and "extremely clear".

Recently I started to keep much more detailed notes, but assume unless otherwise I added at least 10ppm's worth of chlorine a day. Here's what I have in writing:

6/23: Pool company
Reported: pH < 6.2, FC < 0.5, Alkalinity ~ 80, CYA 0 (This would have been after I had added 1 or 2 gallons of liquid chlorine earlier that day).
Added: 2 gal shock, 1 lb pH plus

6/29: Pool company
Reported: ph < 6.2, FC < 0.5, Alkalinity ~ 80, CYA 0 (same exactly as last time)
Added: 2lbs "yellow out", 1 lb ph plus, 2 gal shock, 1lb CYA.

6/30: Added 4 lbs ph plus. After several hours the pH was still below scale on test strips.

(Finally purchased a Taylor K-2006 kit so started using it)

7/1: 1:30pm
pH < 6.8 (bottom of scale) took 17 drops of R0006 to get to pH 7.4. According to book that means ~10 lbs of pH up should be added.
FAS-DPD: 2 drops to colorless (0.4ppm FC), +5 drops to pink again, 5-6 drops to colorless again (1.0-1.2ppm CC).
CYA: approx 90 (not 100% sure what it means by "black dot 'just barely' disappears" though).
+ 2 gal 10% liquid chlorine

7/1 7:30pm
Test strip: pH ~6.4, CC ~3, FC ~3-5.
TA: 13 drops = 130 ?
Added: 4 lbs pH up

7/2 9:00am
pH: ~7.2
FAS-DPD: 2 drops to colorless (0.4ppm FC), 2 drops to pink again (0.8ppm CC)
Added: 4 lbs pH up

7/2 11:00am
Added: 1 gal 10%
pH: ~7.5

7/2 1:30pm
pH: ~7.4
FAS-DPD: 7.5 ppm FC, 1.0 ppm CC (at this point I felt like some progress because it was the longest I'd ever seen it hold chlorine).

7/2 3pm: small pool party, 3 swimmers for about an hour.

7/3 9:30am
ph: ~7.4
Test strip: FC/TC off scale low.
TA: 80-120
Added: 1 gal 10% liquid
Noted water level was at 1/3 skimmer height so added about 45 mins from hose and now up to just over 1/2 skimmer height.

Summary

While the pH seems to be holding steady still seeing chlorine fall. We have had relatively little swimming this season and this chlorine will fall regardless of whether or not anyone goes in so I don't think it's swimmer contamination. Also, the pool is covered nearly 24/7 so it isn't contaminated by rain, nor does it receive UV light. Chlorine also drops down over night. Being that I didn't feel confident in the results from the test strips I was reluctant to add additional stabilizer in case lock was a problem. Recent tests with the Taylor show it to be in the 70-90 range now. I wouldn't also say we've seen "excessive heat" yet this summer - hottest day might have been 89 degrees and there have been quite a few cool days too. Finally, since the water seems so perhaps not an algae issue... unless there are 100% perfectly clear algae? The only thing I haven't formally done is a "SLAM", though I have been adding 3-4 gallons (or granule equivalent) per day.

Help!

Anyway... extremely long story short. What could this be, and what else should I do? I mean, the pool is very clear and comfortable to swim in, it's just that it seems that I have to continue to add a gallon of chlorine every 4-6 hours to keep it above 0.5.

Thanks (and sorry for the super long message).

FK

Not a new pool owner but new to managing my pool. I am so grateful that I found this site. I have been doing a lot of reading and learning. Unfortunately, I was operating under the old mindset before I found this site. I purchased a 10# bucket of chlorine tablets. I was wondering if I could use both the chlorine tablets and liquid chlorine (at least until I use up all of the tablets). If the LC and tablets can be used interchangeably, when should I use the tablets? I have the waterguru sense 2, and have taken water samples to Leslie's pool to test the levels. I have ordered the K-2006 so I can test my own water. Below are my current levels from waterguru (WF) and Leslie's pool (LP).

WG (LP)
FC 3.6 (2.96)
TC - (3.23)
pH 7.5 (7.7)
TA 200 (121)
CYA 71 (70)
CH 219 (168)
Phos - (856)
Thanks for the assistance!

I get what looks like algae. It’s on the bottom of my pool. It’s dark green. It’s comes back to the same spots after a day or two after I vacuum. This has been happening since last summer. I did shock the pool several times last summer. after the shocks I saw it back I thought it had to be just buildup of dirt and maybe leaves, but now I’m not sure. my pool is well balanced always and looks clear. Not sure what to do.

Been a happy SWCG owner now for a couple of months, and pool life has been perfect.
My TFP test kit always has showed salt to be at 3600, since I did the initial startup. SWCG says ~3800.
It definitely tastes salty. The wife can't taste it. The dogs don't seem to care. It is not really any concern to me.

Am I just lucky and have abilities far beyond those of mere mortals?

And hey - the other advantage - I can now float without an inner tube!

I have tried googling and image searching and even going to the pool store, and they weren't able to help me. I have a home built in 1991 and I believe the pool was put in not too long after. My booster pump has developed a leak and needs new seals, but I cannot for the life of me figure out what model/ manufacturer it is. I thought perhaps hayward as that's what is on the sticker, but I have looked and am thinking I have a replacement motor attached to the back of the volute. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be appreciated.

There doesn't seem to be any power in the generator. The LCD displays nothing. no lit buttons anywhere. The circuitbreakers are all okay. It worked a week ago.
What could the issue(s) be?
Thanks!

We are likely going with the Wet Edge Prism matrix to resurface our pool. We are also adding a tanning edge, but because my kids scoot aorund on their knees on tanning ledges, I don't want to use an aggregate finish on the tanning ledge. The PB said he could do Primera Stone just on the ledge, but I am leaning towards using 1x1 glass tiles for aesthetics, but I am concerned about it being a slip hazard for older grandparents.

Aquablu Mosaics sells an antilsip line of glass tiles by Vidrepur that I am considering. Has anyone used these on a tanning shelf or spa and can comment on their slipperiness?

I can’t get this rock out Tomorrow or Tuesday when somebody comes to help. Can I run my pump in the meantime? Have people coming over

Tried searching threads but really didn't see/find my question/answer.
I have a 23k gal vinyl free form pool, gas heater, Hayward pump. I use liquid chlorine, and rarely have to do anything else other than a little acid if pH starts rising. It has never been higher than 7.9. Hovers about 7.4 ish.

However over the course of the last 2 months my CYA has been steadily rising and I don't use tabs so why and where is it coming from? I have TFP kit and will also run a sample to the pool store to see how far off I am with my results.

I have drained water down to past skimmer door (opening drain line on the cartidge filter) and refilled with city water via hose. 2 x since June, but I don't see CYA dropping. What am I not doing or doing wrong?

Here are a few sample readings

Opening 4/14/23
FC 10.49*
TC 11.67*
* this is high due to initial shock of adding 5-6 gal liq Chlorine. Pool guy starts season by filling Rainbow feeder with pucks.
I NEVER REFILL IT AT ALL DURING THE SEASON!
CYA 37

5/5/23
FC 1.78
TC 1.93
CYA 59*

5/31/23
FC2.71
TC 2.99
CYA 81

6/23/23
FC 1.93
TC 2.18
CYA 92

7/6/23
FC 8.49*
TC 8.49*
I had added liquid and shocked due to all the grandkids in pool on 7/5
CYA 89

7/16/23
FC 1.24
TC 1.44
CYA 101

Hello all, in short I have an actuator valve the controls slide and fountain when I select slide the fountain sprays water before the the valve completely turns to slide. Is there a way in iAquaLink to program a short delay in the pump start while the actuator completes the switch to slide?

Thanks

After a backwash and new DE media I now have high pressure in the filter within a week. I also use a variable pump which I mainly run on low speeds. I have always been able to run the lowest speeds with no flow problems since I've had this setup. The problem I am having is after a while on the low speed the flow is so low that my SWG quits producing chlorine due to low flow. I backwashed and replaced media yesterday and the problem occur again within 12 hrs. Today after backwashing I took the filter apart and cleaned looking for a blockage but found none. The PSI now has been starting close to 20PSI. In the past it would of been around 14. I took some pics and have a few ?'s. The first pic of the filter shows the [finger], should it be covered with that hard yellow plastic? Does it even matter? The second pic shows me blowing air tru the elements with a vacuum. Should they bellow up like that? Is air bigger than water? I would think if air has a problem getting tru then so would water. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

A few weeks ago I installed a Circupool RJ60+. Then I went on vacation for 16 days. While away I had my daughter check salt levels and chlorine levels every other day and adjust as needed. She had to add one 40 pound bag of salt. And twice she added a gallon of chlorine.
My CYA is at 60. I had her try to keep the chlorine at about 6–8 ppm while I was gone just to be safe. She did that.
Now that I’m back home I did a full analysis. pH spiked up to 8.2. Is this expected with a SWCG? My pH was always very stable at about 7.5 prior. Another odd result was that my CH dropped from 350ppm to 250ppn.
What’s the explanation for that? She added no water to the pool. Between the normal evaporation and the rain, the water level remained fine.

Sorry for the long post but I’m looking for some guidance.

The pool company has been receptive and working with me but I was wondering if there is anyone who has experienced this before. Last year a few times (maybe three) while the equipment / pool was in spa mode with the heater on and the blower on, one of the breakers at the pool pad would trip and turn off all the equipment. When I would go over to the pool pad to inspect, I noticed some water under the UV/Ozone box as if water leaked out of it. I would flip the breaker back on and not have any issues getting the equipment back up and running. I would monitor the UV/Ozone leak when I put the equipment back in pool mode and it would dry up and no longer be leaking. During the last time it happened last season, when I put the equipment back into pool mode it sounded like the pump was running on high (app showed it running at 100%) but the pump was hardly pumping any water into the pool (spa wasn’t overflowing, etc., the filters were cleaned and the pressure of the filter was not high). Pool company came out and we couldn’t get the equipment to replicate the issue I experienced.

Fast forward to this season, I have not experienced the breakers tripping at the pool pad and we have used the heater to heat the pool a few times with no issues.

We also used the heater three times to heat the spa and use the spa. The first time was on 05/29. During that time, the heater would continuously kick off but I would not get a notification on the OmniLogic App. When I would go over to the equipment pad I lifted the window on the heater and it had an orange light by the triangle and displayed Lo. Doing some research I came to the conclusion it was low water flow into the heater which didn’t make sense because the pump was on high and the pressure on the filters were not high and within range. Turning the heater off and back on would solve this problem, it would start up heating again for a few minutes before it would kick off again. We finished swimming that night and the next day (05/30) as a precaution I cleaned the filters which were not too dirty.

On 06/18 we used the heater to heat the pool and we also used the spa again to include the blower and the heater. While using the heater to heat the pool we did not have any issues with the heater kicking off and having that Lo reading. However, while using the heater to heat the spa, the heater would continuously kicked off, have that orange triangle illuminated and would read Lo. When it first happened, I went over to the pool pad to inspect and noticed water under the UV/Ozone box, the orange triangle lite up on the heater window and the error code of Lo. Turning off the heater and turning it back on solved the issue, it would start heating before kicking off again. We finished the night swimming and I left the pool in pool mode to end the night. I monitored the leak from the UV/Ozone box and it appeared to stop like it did last season when the equipment was put back into pool mode. Also, there has been some water under the heater when it’s on but I assume that condensation?
The pool company came out a few days later and could not get the equipment to replicate the issue but did advise they noticed a small leak coming from inside the UV/Ozone box.
Fast forward to this past weekend, on 07/22 we used the spa again and had the equipment in spa mode. At first, the breaker would continuously trip and I would go over to the equipment pad and flip the breaker back on. Eventually the breaker stopped tripping and then the heater
would continuously kick off and back on. The first time it tripped I noticed water under the UV/Ozone box, the second time it tripped I noticed water under the front right side of the heater, the third time it tripped I noticed water under the front left side of the heater. After the heater kicking off and back on a few times by itself I eventually turned it off to prevent any further issues.

Click to expand...

To note, the water/wet spot I’ve noticed under the UV/Ozone box & the heater are only there when the equipment is in spa mode with the heater on. It’s not a leak as water is continuously flowing, it appears to drip for a few minutes to create a wet spot under the equipment and then it stops. I’ve also previously used the heater to heat the pool in pool mode and the heater ran for 3ish hours with no issues (not kicking off, not leaking, not tripping the breaker) and brought the pool temperature up 9ish degrees.

Does anyone have any idea what’s going on? When the equipment is in spa mode is it creating to much pressure and causing a leak in the UV/Ozone box and the heater and there is some sort of safety feature that if those two units detects a water leak it trips the breaker?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all. I have a problem with DE flowing back into the pool through the return. I use a hayward ec 50 bump filter for above ground pool. I see that when the pump is turned off DE is flowing back from the filter into the pump basket, as a result, DE is flowing back into the pool for about 10-15 seconds every time the filter is turned back on. When I vacuum the DE and continue the let the filter run afterwards it appears that no more DE is flowing back into the pool so I don't think there are any issues with the filter tubes, tube sheet or diaphragm.

I already backwashed a couple of times and tubes were cleaned prior to starting this season. When I opened the filter to check tubes it does appear like DE is not coating them but I'm not sure. There was mention of a faulty check valve but I'm not sure. Any ideas?

So going through engineering now for the design. Main reason for pool is rehab due to disability. Design is pool only, no spa.
Wanted to get thoughts and opinions.
Pool Size: 15' x 25'
Depth: 4' - 5'
Baja: 8.5'x5', 9.5" depth
Feature: 3' sheer descent

Pool Equipment:
Pump: Pentair VSP 3hp Intelliflo3
Filter: Pentair Cartridge 520
Heater: 220k NG 230V Ultratemp ETI Hybrid Heater
No SWG
Automation: Intellicenter I5P
Lights: Microbrite LEDs (4)
2 Skimmers
AutoFill
Channel Drain (but thinking about eliminating)
No infloor cleaning
No suction side cleaner (figured I could always use a skimmer, but going to go with a robot cleaner)

Deck & Coping - Brushed concrete
Waterline Tile: Still undecided but thinking about stacked stone porcelain tile
Finish: Quartz finish, don't want the rough finish of the pebble

Will be putting a lift in the corner by the baja step, but finding crazy high pricing on ADA lift, didn't know if there are any other ideas? Thought about a ramp, but the pool/yard is on the small size for that

First step 1.5 under water line, 9.5" baja step, 3rd step and regular benches 17.5" under water, 4th step 25.5 and 5th at 33.5 (need it to be easily accessible)

Have most of the vendors lined up, just need permit and then will be starting to dig

Hello, going to be putting in a pool soon and was wondering if anyone recently had good experiences with Southern California pool builders they can recommend?

First, I understand why we should have higher CYA in a salt pool, it helps with keeping the FC and it doesn't tax the SWG.

What I noticed in my pool with it covered 95% of the time I'm not losing chlorine that fast. My last CYA test was 50 and I can go days without adding more liquid chlorine. It got me thinking that since my CYA is 50 and the solar cover is on all the time that I don't need to keep the CYA at 80. If I ever need to SLAM it would be less chlorine at 50 CYA then 80.

Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.

HI,

It looks like my Pentair Compool LX220 has died.

I have a Pentair 011018 IntelliFlo variable speed pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster and 380 sweep, solar panels on the roof.

I first noticed that I could not turn the Polaris booster pump on by moving the manual lever on the clockwork timer. Then I noticed that while the LX220 said solar heating was on, the actuator valve was in the off position.

I got the valve to move by loosening the bolt on top, flicking the toggle switch from ON1 – OFF –ON2 and back to ON1, then a gentle manual assistance and off it went.

I still could not get the booster pump to turn on.

All three green LEDS were on on the LX220 and moving the WATER FLOW TO PANELS switch from AUTO – OFF – ON made no impact.

The voltages for VLV top and middle were 28V AC, but for top and bottom it was only 2V AC.

I sprayed contact cleaner on the WATER FLOW TO PANELS switch, and it disintegrated. The knob fell off and moving it manually moved it too far.



So, what’s my best next option?

• Look for a new circuit board (seems to be $494 on eBay, and am I then going to find the relay is dead?
• Look for a new/another LX220 (easy replacement, but old hardware/old tech?
• Find someone to replace the sliding switch?
• But a newer controller (Pentair Solartouch is mentioned, would that be a good fit?)

Thanks for any thoughts.

John

After ditching the Frog my spa came with, I bought the Taylor K-2006 kit a while back and love it! I'm running out of chemicals in that kit, so I researched how to replace the chemicals without buying an entirely new kit... and then found this website/forum! You're the resource I've been looking for over the last year or more trying to manage my spa.

My research - and this forum - led me to purchase the TF-Pro (mainly for the case and the awesome stirring thing, since I was needing to buy the reagents/chemicals anyway). I just got it, and I'm wondering if the reagents, directions, proportions, & measuring devices can be used between the kits; are they compatible/universal with each other? Let me share some examples:

- The reagents are numbered the same as each other in the 2 kits (ie: R-0009 for alkalinity test's sulfuric acid is the same # in each kit). So can I use the TF reagents in my Taylor testing, since I'm out of some of the Taylor reagents (ie: R-0009, R-0871, R-0010)? The bottles & their labels look different (sizes, but also the TF's kit bottles' labels don't say Taylor), which is what caught my attention. Can I substitute the TF's bottle of R-0009 for Taylor's while still using Taylor's R-0007 & R-0008 in my alkalinity testing?

- I've figured out that the pH test isn't the same proportions. I used my Taylor's pH test (R-0004 with the cylinder comparator that came with the Taylor kit), and then just to see how that compared in the TF kit I poured that mixed solution (measuring 7.7 in the cylinlder) into the TF square comparator and it was a much weaker looking red (not able to be read in the square comparator). So the proportions (water to 5 drops) didn't work between the 2. Does that mean I need to keep using my Taylor cylinder comparator until my Taylor R-0004 drops run out?
-- I just looked at the TF kit, and the pH drops have a different number (R-0014), so I guess that sort of answers that question. That liquid needs to be used with that measuring device. Got it.

Are there any other tests where I need to beware of not switching the reagents or measurers between the two kits?

Also, are the directions for the test kits compatible with each other? I've doctored up the color-coded one that came with the Taylor test kit (permanent marker underlining things, and writing cooresponding notes on the lids of the bottles) - can I just move that doctored up color-coded one to my TF-Pro kit and follow those Taylor directions? Once I embraced the color-coding and wrote cheater notes on the bottle lids (ie: "2 drops, swirl", "5 drops, swirl", and "green to red, swirl & count, x10" on my alkalinity set of 3 bottles), testing is SO much less stressful and much easier for me to do quickly.

Thanks for your help in easing me into the TF-Pro kit, after I finally became comfy with the Taylor K-2006 kit.

Hi All, this is Ken from Livermore, CA. We are 30 miles due East of San Francisco Bay and somewhat in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, but have great wines and a long winemaking history dating from the mid 1800's. I purchased a home here in 2009 with a ~1500 gallon in-ground spa with a waterfall feature. I needed to move the equipment pad to make room for an outbuilding, which prompted a search to upgrade the Hayward equipment that now has to be at least 25 years old. Kudos to Hayward for their build quality, at least at that time. Happy to find this site, and will be posting questions soon. Also happy to share what I learn along the way.

My spirit has quit working for me. The lights on the ps blink at the same time and cleaner won't work. I've tried turning the on/off button on several times with no luck.

HELP!

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to replace a pool heat pump sensor? We have the AquaPro PRO900T model. We have the replacement sensor and now need to find out how to replace it. I tried googling videos but can't find out heat pump out there.

If anyone can help, I'd sure appreciate it!

Thank you,
Stephanie

It was not making this sound last week that I know for a fact but lately its been sunny in North Carolina so I went out today to add water to the pool(this was in the early morning when the pool hasn't turned on yet) since it was below its recommended range. I go back outside a couple hours later to see that the water is at a acceptable level but I hear the pool smart filter making the buzzing sound and I cant find anything online to address this matter or to brush it off. Anyone have any idea what the problem is if any?( I will check if this is still happening tomorrow to make sure it isn't a one time thing)

I got home the other day to a massive leak at my pump, had 1.5 inches of water in my shed. Basically, the union piece screwed into the pump outlet doesn’t seem to be holding anymore. If you screw it in, at some point it just won’t tighten anymore and will just get loose again. The threads seem fine on both the piece and the union, and I even bought a replacement piece and when screwing it in it’s the same problem. A guy came to have a look, he thinks maybe the hole itself got a bit warped because of heat. But he’s not sure as my pump is only like 3 years old, I didn’t have significant air bubbles showing, though I did have a bit. I don’t want to replace a pump if I don’t have to, not sure if there’s a good way to verify if that’s really the problem or if there’s a way to fix as opposed to replacing. Pictures attached.

I have a Hayward heater (not sure what model, but has 5-6 burners). The original setup linked to iAquaLink was done by the previous owner. Everything worked find controlling the system until I had to clean out a burner line due to a spider web in the first burner’s “pipe.”

Thereafter, whenever I turn on the pump system in iAquaLink (this works) and then turn on spa mode (this works), if I then try to turn on spa heater, the heater turns on but the display on the heater indicates pool heater mode. As a result, the spa only ever heats to the pool temp setting. (I have tried going into BO mode but then the heater never turns on thru iAquaLink controls.) In order to make the spa heat to the spa heater setting while the system is on, I must manually click the Hayward heater out of linked mode (linked mode = orange light on the power symbol; unlinked = no light) and instead put it in manual spa mode (red light on spa symbol). Before turning off the system in iAquaLink, I have to manually switch the heater back to linked mode. Otherwise the next time I turn on the system, the heater automatically turns on to spa heater mode (the last manual mode).

How do I reset the heater to correctly respond to iAquaLink heater selections (pool vs spa)?

Note: the pool heater setting in iAquaLink correctly turns on the pool heater.

Hi there-

Our pool is four years old with a standard chlorinator, spillover spa, and automatic safety cover. I am contemplating converting to a salt water chlorinator system but want to know if anyone has issues with the salt corroding the autocover. Also, this may be a silly question, but can you convert a spillover spa to salt as well?

Thank you!

My neighbor has changed his liner 2 years ago. Few days ago he has noticed a large bubble in the shape of a gaussian curve probably 40 inch diameter and 20 inches high. It's in the higher end of the pool. It feels like water below the liner. We are in new jersey and it has rained z lot the last few weeks.

He is not taking care of the pool himself and the company who takes care of his pool for him told him to just wait, it will go away. He asked me what I think about it. I'm not sure and I'm curious to hear from the specialists here ! I am.hinestly never satisfied With "you should wait" answer, also because the weather main not get better and it may be a bigger issue that needs to be fixed. Thanks for your help.