Good Day All,

Has anyone experience surface problems with sider crete?

Is it better to power the Aquapure via main pump relay in the Aqualink RS enclosure. (effectively turning on the SWCG when power is applied to the pump), or connect it to the RPM switched relay on the Jandy FloPro pump itself (Activates around 1725 RPM).

Thanks

I started replacing my pool equipment and I'm stuck a bit here. Maybe I am to focused on not creating anymore 90 degree turns but someone talk some sense into me.

The image shows the pipe right under the T, which is the main drain, will need 2 90s to move it to the right to utilize the 3 ways properly.

Does anyone see any other way to set this up to limit the 90s needed for the main drain?

Also is it frowned upon using street elbows?

Hey all,

When this pool is done I'll be making a hefty donation to TFP, that's for sure. Our PB has been slow to respond to slide placement options and we would like to do the Typhoon. He said that it cannot go over our Coverstar auto cover, but here on a competing pool builder's website (attached, but very small photo) I see they've done exactly what we would like to do, which would save us on extending the deck space on the long side of the pool. Is there any technical reason I'm not grasping for why we couldn't do this or is my PB just dodging me?

hello Everyone, I'm new here and a pool owner for 5 years. This year we had our first experience with "chlorine lock". It was a first and second for us. Roughly 8 days ago we had to dump 5 of those big Chlorine jugs into the pool (we were going away the following day and didn't want to return to a green pool). Now that we are back, I tested our pool and chlorine and free chlorine is still bright pink. However, as I was getting ready to leave the house for work, I wanted to set up the salt generator to superchlorinate because we will have a very hot day here in CT today. I'm very concerned that my cell read ZERO salt. What's happening??

So my pool stays clear mostly but after a few days of normal operation (pump on 8 to 10 hours, FC level around 2-3ppm, CYA 30 to 45, 3 Trichlor tabs each in two floats), the deep end doesn't look as clear. It's clear, but not super, sparkly, clear. I'll then dump a gallon of Bleach in or a bag of shock and the next day it's super clear. A few days later, rinse and repeat.

??

Thanks....

I have been using the Diamond Crystal brand salt crystals in my pool SWG (as well as my water softener system) for the last year and i know they are often recommended on this site.

My autofill for the pool comes from my house, which is from the water softener system.

I can buy the Morton water softener pellets at a lower price and was wondering if anyone has an opinion/experience with the Morton porduct in a pool?

thanks.

John

About to close on a home that has an in-ground pool. I will be first time pool owner. The lights in the pool are an old S.R. Smith PG2000 Fiber Optic Lighting System that is not longer working. Pool has 4 lights and Spa has 1. I was told a good replacement is the Pentair MicroBrite color leds that will communicate with the new Pentair control board recently installed. The pool tech quoted the MicroBrite color leds 620425 for 518 which I believe is not bad (if the regular price is 499?). However, we do need the 100' wire. Where is a good source to buy the 620424 which is a 50' wire? If I am not mistaken this is almost 100 cheaper. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Since my pool pump timer stopped working last month, I've probably only ran my filter about 6-8 hours every other day due to forgetting to turn it on. I have a Paramount cleaning system also which runs 90% of the time when the pump runs for those 6-8 hours. I chlorinate via 2 floats with tabs. Activity (people) have been in it most days so it's getting circulated during the day for a few hours.

My pool is clear as glass and all levels are rock solid. Am I playing with fire here by being so laissez-faire with filtering?

I've been in process of building a mobile cart (hand truck) with a Pentair CC75 and a Pentair 011056 pump, but this morning one of my old Jandy 1.0HP single speed pumps (its 13 years old I think) died so I'm going to replace that one with the Pentair 011056 pump that -was- going to go on the mobile cart.

So now I need a new VSP pump (110V, since it will plug into an outside AC outlet when in use), that will be on my hand truck (dolly) along with the CC75. Any thoughts? a 2.5-3HP VSP would be nice, as I would need it to move enough water for 36,000 gallons or so and mobile vacuuming. (This mobile cart (filter and pump) is something I'd only be using 1x per week (for 30 mins or so) and sometimes after my pool is shutdown in late Fall.

Someone on TFP (was it @Jimrahbe maybe? or @Newdude?) posted some really nice cheap VSP pump options awhile back (in Spring??) that were only around $500 or so. I'm likely to skip Jandy/Pentair as options. Cheaper models are fine because usage will be minimal.

Any points in the right direction? Thanks.

Circupool Universal 40 SWG

It is reporting 2300 PPM on the screen, and flashing the low salt light, or even leaving the light continuous which means it thinks that there is too little salt to generate, along with the check cell light and "Slo" on the display which I think means "Salt low."

I did pop the cell off and took a peek in there. There seems to be a small seed in between a couple of the fins, (Tried to get it out with a popsicle stick, but ended up pushing it further accidentally!) But otherwise it looks good in there.
When I put it together at the beginning of the season, I did acid-clean the cell as described in the instructions as it had a little bit of build up. That was at the beginning of my TFP learning and I believe my CSI has always been in range, and below zero.

I just measured salinity with my kit and it is 4000 PPM.

Is there anything else I can try?

We bought the house in December so this is all relatively new to me; if I recall correctly, the sellers told me they installed the system in 2017 or 2018. So the cell is likely a few years old.

The specific question is: do I need to shut off my Intelliflo pump to adjust a 3-port Jandy Never Lube valve?

In more detail: I finally figured out what this return piping is for (pictured). The right side is labeled "Spa Fountain" and should divert water to the port in the center of my spa floor, though I haven't tried it yet. The left is un-labeled, but I opened it and found it feeds two aerators in the pool. Up to now, I've been careful to turn off the Intelliflo pump before operating the 3-port diverters to switch the suction and return between Pool and Spa, based on what the previous owners said. But when it comes to this fountain/aerator piping, I'm not sure whether it's a bad idea to repeatedly shut the pump off and on trying to make minor adjustments to spray height. Is it a bad practice to adjust these valves while the pump is running? The majority of flow is still running to the returns in the pool and spa, so I can't see accidently creating a bad backflow situation.

I was troubleshooting my Mastertemp 300 and changing all the usual sensors and the control board. I checked the thermal limiter and found the thermostat and the spring were gone. I’m thinking the spring must have rusted and the thermostat must be in the manifold. My question is, how far can that Dang thing go? It must be causing a problem because now I’m getting a PS LED light telling me it’s the pools pressure, which make sense as the thermostat could be causing a blockage. Thanks guys for any help.

Moved from HERE

@RickRude, did you notice that you lost flow with this problem? We have the same pump and have bubbles coming out of the jets and gurgling. We keep losing flow and are wondering if we should try what was suggested to you.

Looking for recommendations on a quick repair for glass tiles on our spillway edge. A dozen or so had fallen out and managed to get the builder back to repair those and close out a few other final punch list items. A week later a single tile popped out. Can anyone recommend a water proof adhesive - marine epoxy maybe? - that I can use to pop a tile in?

I have stained stairs; yellow / brownish stains. I think the stars are fiberglass, they feel like plastic.

Cleaning them with Citric Acid turns them to a bright white but I've been doing this at an increasign interval. After cleaning to bright white with Citric Acid the stains usually return within two to three (2-3) weeks.

I sanatize with Tri-Chlor (Doheny's 3 in Chlorine Tabs), and shock with 12.5% Pool Tech. Aqua Mate for all other chems (Job Lot).

I use the Taylor test kit and my levels are all within range or close. Not perfect but decent.
FC: 10.5
PH: 7.3
TA: 90
CH: 650
CY: 80 (Tabs push this high or higher)

My question is what is the cause of this returning stain? Should I use some type of Iron Out or other metal out product?

I corrected the wiring that was installed prior to purchasing my home, moving the purple wires per the diagram so now my booster pump will not turn on without my main pump running However I am unsure what the white wires are doing or whether they are redundant with the purple providing power to the booster. should I leave it as-is?

Before


After


Diagram

I’ve come across some old threads regarding the no flow error codes showing up on my Jandy Aqualink 1400 and I was able to find the salinity button behind the circuit board but my stupid question is, do I need to shut off all power first before holding down the button for 5 seconds or should power be on? I know it’s basic but want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks to this forum I fired my pool are company because my pool was developing algae and they told me “This pool is prone to algae.” LOL. I took out all the pucks, ordered the Taylor 2006 c test kit and have just passed a SLAM two days ago and am letting my FC drift back down to maintenance level.

Latest test results:
FC 22
CC 0
CYA 60
Salt 3700
CH 370
TA/Ph - did not do because if I understand correctly the results would not be accurate with FC above 10.

I put a drop of Muriatic acid on the crystals and didn’t see bubbling. Same thing when I let this dry to a white flakey powder.

When I squeeze this mess it sort of disappears or shrinks. Test results below. 17000 gallon SWG pool- newly replastered 4 months ago. Tucson, AZ.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello everyone, new almost pool owners here. Plaster this week. So far so good for our PB and workmanship. My main purpose for signing on is getting tips on plaster start up techniques, chemical set up, and general maintenance programs. Its about a 15k gallon pool, no spa, no heater. North Texas and its hotter than heck here.

An issue Im running into, while my pool builder is great, automation and pool equipment set up is not his expertise. I have been reading and scouring youtube to find how the components need to be connected to one another. I went with a full Jandy ecosystem.

AquaLink Rs control box, with 4 relays
Aqua Link 3.0 wifi receiver
Jandy VS pump 2.2 HP
Jandy Salt TruClear SGW
Jandy small 120v LED lights
Jandy DE filter

The electrician and I figured out the basics, we have, 220 and 115 supplied to the RS box. I see that box needs 115 for the transformer, and Ill put 220 to the pump relay. I understand hooking up the datacables to the red connections. My confusion, is how to hook up the TruClear salt chlorinator box. Should I run it though one of the relays as well (220v), wire it directly so its always on, or use on of the aux relays on the pump. I will run the SWG datacable to the aqua link red data port as well. Thanks for any insight.

Also ready for input on what tools, and gear to get! Thanks!

The previous owner of our house had a spa which he removed and covered its place with concrete. Attached is how piping looks like, and my guess is one of the highlighted pipes was for the spa (or can they both be for my pool?). I am trying to find space to install an SWCG (Universal 40). So I though that if I could figiure out which of the highlighted pipes is for my pool, I can cut UL40 into it. As you can see on the picture, one of pipes has a valve. I am not sure what it was for, but it appears to be broken as no matter how much I twist it, it doesn't close. Are these valves usually installed on spa pipes? Can it be a solid indicator it is a spa pipe and the other one if for pool? Is there any other way to tell for sure which one if which?

Looks like I need to replace the control board for my MasterTemp 400. Currently, my heater has the older 5 button membrane. A couple questions:

1) Can I replace it with a 6-button board?
2) Is it a relatively easy swap?

Thanks.

Hello, I’m new to TFP. First post so forgive me if this isn’t the right place.

I have a Hayward, EC 40 DE pool filter. and a one horsepower pump. My pool is above ground and is about 3000 gallons.

Last year I didn’t winterize the pool. We had a lot going on and the pool stayed open and the pump and filter connected all winter. Come summer, the case for the Hayward was cracked so I had to replace it. After doing so and cleaning the fingers and putting new DE. Everything ran fine temporarily.

My issue is as follows:
every time I turn on the filter, it runs appropriately for about 5min and then the pressure coming out of the return dies down significantly. It happens gradually over the 5min. I’ve taken out the fingers multiple times, and hosed them down.
I have soaked them in acid overnight and then put them back in which made the duration that the filter works longer.
Now it’ll work for like 20min before dying down slowly.
I even went as far as taking apart each finger and soaking the finger cases in soap and acid for 3hrs and then putting everything back together. They looked fine, no tears or anything.
Same thing. Over the span of 20-30min, it dies again. I noticed that when I turn it off and pump the handle and then turn it back on it runs for a little longer before dying. When I look at the pressure gauge, it reads about 18-19 at the point that the filter pressure dies.

At this point do I need to replace the finger cases? Or can it be something with the pump? It’s not that complicated of a system but I can’t figure out what it is. I thought for sure after soaking and cleaning the fingers it would work properly.

Any advice is appreciated thanks!

Me again
Didn’t want to hijack someones thread.. so I apologize for one more about white flakes.

2 days into SWG and today I’ve noticed white flakes. I’ve started using pool math few weeks ago and my CSI is always between -0.15 and -0.3
Currently -0.3
I was planning to bring CH to recommended 350 but not sure? Also wondering if these flakes are ‘leftovers’ hmmm

Hello,

I am having some calcium buildup on my salt cell (45 to 60 days between cleaning), much more than I feel I should be having. Previous years I ran a Pentair IC60 and injected 50% acid/50% water via a stenner pump a few feet before the salt cell to keep ph stable with minimal effort. While this seemed to keep the salt cell clean I think it shortened the life of 2 cells to two summers each so I replumbed this last spring to inject AFTER the cell and put in a generic ($600) cheaper salt cell from discount salt pool but I have been having more problems with calcium.

My numbers are the following:
FC 0.35
ph 7.4
TA 79
Calcium 482
Cyanuric 53
Salt 3117
Pool temp 78-86 degrees

CSI is -0.2 per pool math. I should also note that I added an entire 64 oz bottle of Beautec Easycare Cale Preventative a month or two ago.

Any thoughts or ideas why I'm having such trouble.

I have read every article that I can about hybrid pools. The one thing I cannot find information about is how specifically to restore the fiberglass panels. Can they be sandblasted at the same time as the concrete bottom? Do I hand sand them?

I'm beginning to put together a list of things to try this on my own and want to have as much information as possible before moving forward.

Hello!

new-ish pool owner ( came with the house ). the in-ground vinyl pool has a leak, leak/s. it is currently stopped at a level below the drain line. I am guessing it might have come from when I pulled out the umbrella from the pool in the last thunderstorm (blew over). I was able to find one leak and marine-caulk-seal it, but there is a leak somewhere else and my dye/diving skills can't find it.

I am hesitating to keep filling up the pool, concerned it might just be going to the foundation or somewhere else.

I've requested for service, but the earliest they can come is in 5 days. Any tips on how to maintain the pool till then?

i.e. just keep adding chlorine, maintain levels? is the pump ok to not run for that long? ( will i get other issues with the water stuck in the lines? ) should i start pumping from the pool into the skimmer basket or drain line?

thank you!

Newbie here - I'm trying to figure out a schedule for my Pentair SuperFlo VSP. The builder set it to run at 2500rpm 24/7 and he told me I can just leave it there, but I want to understand my numbers and fine-tune it anyway. First step for me is to calculate the flow by measuring pressure and vacuum from the ports on my pump. I bought a couple "standard" gauges but the ports on the pump are so low to the ground that I don't have enough room to screw in the gauges. Can I just connect my gauges to a hose and then connect the hose to the pump ports? Will that still give accurate readings?

I have followed the Hayward troubleshooting tutorial and seeing that between the red and black cable it only showed 10 Volts, I have replaced the diode bridges (it has two). But the problem has not been solved. The 15000uF electrolytic capacitors are a bit bulky on top and seem to charge well. Could someone provide me with the electronic schematic? IThe model is SAS15EU.
Thank you

Hi all - I see that I’m not alone with the hot pool problem (especially here in FL with no rain!!!). My issue is my return eye balls are not threaded. They are the press in bulbous looking things that just push into the return pvc pipe. I think they’re called self aligning? Any thoughts on how I can get a fountain connected? I’ve looked around the web and keep coming up empty.
Thanks!