I have an IC40 with no lights active on the cell itself. I saw the 12 amp fuse/low voltage breaker was tripped, and thought replacing it would remedy the issue but it hasn't. I've seen vids that indicate the salt board could be the problem, other input claims the entire cell is bad. What evidence is needed to determine the true issue at hand? Easytouch control panel.

hi! the house came with an old concrete pool and these items in the photo -
heater, DE filter and 1HP pump.
i guess the pump was left running over the winter for a weekend without water and now it looks like its burned out and the pipes seem melted (photo below was taken 1.5 yrs ago when we paid for a pool survey). how that happened? i installed a wifi timer (this site helped me figure out the wiring!) and somehow it ended up engaging on its own or butt dialed, whatever it was i noticed 3 days later the pump was running after i winterized it.
I bought a

1. used 700sq ft cartridge filter Hayward C7030
2. new Pentair IC60 salt cell
3. new china 2hp pump (yes i know, but the price is crazy to not at least try)

The idea i have is to DIY the following:

1. remove the DE filter
2. Remove the multi-port valve
3. ramove the pump
4. install the cartridge filter
5. install the pump
6. install the salt cell

Question A:
the 2 white pipes coming out of the heater, i assume the right one is the return to the pool pipe? is that where i need to put the salt cell? is hot water going through the cell ok?
i read somewhere:

1. the chlorinated water coming out of the salt cell shouldnt go into the heater, get heated up then go into the pool - is that true? "needs to be placed "after" the heater? fyi the heater will not be on much, i assume a total of 14-30 days a year in the summer
2. the salt cell should be on a higher than the pump level

Question B:
the filter - should it have a bypass valve? for when i want to "back wash" or vaccuum the pool gunk? any advice on what valve to get?
Question C:
is removing the pump and filter and attaching new pipes, joints, gluing - is that easy to do with youtubing advice? i realize i need a cutter for the pipes, glue and primer and some planning skills.

Question D:
looking at the old photo - is there a pipe config you suggest given i am redoing most of it?
(misc status - the pool is a mess tiles are falling off, a couple of large water line cracks, plaster chipping, old lights were removed filled and painted on looks scary, and now theres a leak that lost 2 ft of water and stopped half way (i emptied the water to just below the return jets and over the winter it dropped 2ft! and stopped).

When I start getting lowered output in my returns, and a small bubble appears in the basket closest to the pump:
So I know that the less output in my returns can be clogged filters??
The bubble in the basket means air is not getting purged out(routinely there is no bubble in the basket, so probably an incomplete seal??
When I open the cartridge barrel, under these circumstances, my cartridge holder seems to always be tilting off its normal position.
Why does it do this? Am I doing something wrong? Incoming water pressure too high??
I have already confirmed the barrel itself is sitting level.
Please help.

Is there a proper way the clean the baskets. Pump on /off, skimmer valve open are closed, skimmer first filter second. Be great if I knew the sequin and procedure. Thank You in advance

Hello. I am a second-time poster. There is always a white sediment in the bottom of my pool. It kicks up when the sweeper is running and makes the water more mirky. This is what I have done over the course of 18 months to no avail:

Replaced the original stainless steel DE filter with a used Hayward DE7220 filter and got rid of the backflush valve.
Replaced the grids to my Hayward DE7220 DE filter.
Replaced the grids again with more expensive grids.
Replaced the DE filter with a Hayward W3C5030 cartridge filter. Then, drained the pool, flushed pipes and refilled pool.

Still, there is quite bit of white sediment, very visible at the bottom of the pool in the morning.

I'd be grateful for any help. Thanks.

john

The board in my hottub went and I am trying to find a replacement, but I am not sure about the specifics. My board is a Balboa V500z P/N22972_E. My hottub has two pumps, a heater (of course), LED lights (that I dont care about), a speaker system (which again I don't care about), and an ozonator (I think its called). Its also 240.

I have seen many boards that are VS500 and VS501. Are they interchangeable? For example, will this one work?


Also, if it says NO AIR BLOWER, does that mean it wont make the bubbles?

We have an above ground pool with a composite deck around half of it. We bought a 'cheap' cantilever/offset umbrella that had a metal cross-base with plastic snap-together sections filled with sand that fit on top of the metal feet at Bed Bath & Beyond 3 years ago. Now, the umbrella itself has developed some small holes and the wine red color is now mostly light pink, so we are replacing the whole thing. The metal feet under the weighted sand base left rusted places on the composite decking. I researched how to remove the rust and am having pretty good luck getting it off. The new umbrella is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'm not sure if the base is the same, with the metal feet sitting directly on the decking and the sand-filled base on top of that or not, but I imagine it probably is.

My question is how should I best protect the deck so that the metal feet don't rust onto it? I've read suggestions online of putting a grill mat or wicker mat under the feet, and those will probably work. Although the feet are already painted, what about spraying the bottom of the feet with some extra coat of paint? If that is advised, what type of paint - regular spray paint, lacquer, automotive undercoating, etc.? I wouldn't want the paint to wear off and get on the decking. We don't plan to move the umbrella around regularly, so it wouldn't be dragged too much, but may move it slightly for readjustments or when cleaning the deck periodically.

All ideas are appreciated.

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. So now let's see your water clarity.

Hello. I noticed my local pool store is now testing for Phosphates. I have never had a test for those. My level came back at 3,762. Is this something that needs to be addressed? I suppose the concern is algae growth, but I have never had algae and stay on top of my chlorine.

As the title says, my Speedstir decided to quit working at the end of last season. I took it apart but there are no mechanical parts in there to fix. Anyone have any suggestions short of buying another one?

On that note, are the Smart Stirs a better product?

One minute everything was working and now the control panel flashes on and off. I need help have tried everything I can see and all appears okay. With the controller flashing off and on, nothing works.

Hi, I replaced a Hayward pump with a variable speed Pureline Pump in 2019 and it's been working pretty well except last summer, the digital display stopped working. My previous schedule had been saved so I was able to get the pool opened by using the override buttons to keep it running, but I'd like to get the display working again.

It's a Century /AO Smith V-Green 270 user interface controller. I removed the display from the pump and expected to see some corrosion from water seeping into the control board, but it's pristine.

Any other suggestions on what could be wrong? Or anything else I should try to get the display up and working. i already disconnected the display cable and cleaned it but again, it looked perfectly fine.

This is the controller info page, but it came with my Pureline PL2626 pump
A.O. Smith V-Green 270 User Interface - 2520652-001 - INYOPools.com

Pics attached also.
Thanks for any ideas you might have.

Just opened the pool - seems the app has gotten an update and is prompting me to sign up for premium, which I have had for several years. I should still have time left from last year - I have notice that it will renew on May 21 which I have OK'd.

Just stumbled across the answer, I'll leave this post for others going down the same path. You have to relink your subscription - hit Premium and you will see the link. I'm back in business.

Hello,

I have a five year old Mastertemp 400 Pool/Spa heater setup that was getting E06 error (first error ever with heater).
THEN:
Replaced Sensor with aftermarket, and cleared the E06 code, but heater would shut off with SFS code on back of control board after 1-2 minute run.
I ohm tested prior to and post install at 3.8Mohm. Wires running to control board at 3ohm.
Tested flue gas with meat thermometer and it was rising, but never got over 250 when running in those 1-2 minute spans.

NOW:
Getting E06 code before ignition. Air blower turns on, 20-30 seconds later, either while gas valve clicks, or about when it should, the heater goes into SFS error prior to ignition.
I have not tested Thermal Regulator, or Internal bypass.

I do not understand why the SFS sensor would be triggered prior to startup.
Breaker has been cycled multiple times, but the only thought I have is that the control board needs to be reset with the 10 second hold on membrane pad "OFF" button,,etc.
Without tearing into the manifold yet, is there anything else I am missing?

Thanks,

Hi! We bought house & pool in Dec. Pool was built in the 80s. We’re trying to learn all we can as quickly as we can!

Looking forward to learning from y’all!

Opened the pool today from its winter nap and got everything up and running. I did notice that the returns in the stairs were not blowing any air in the flow stream but other than that no issues. The plumbing in the cabana is showing no drips so thought all was good. After a few hours of circulation the pool level has dropped by an inch or so and has me wondering if the water is blowing out the airlines attached to the stair jets which by venturi are supposed to add air to the return jet stream. I have closed of the valve that directs water to these jets and so far no further level drop. Any troubleshooters out there wanna take a shot at this one?

Just started dabbling in outfitting custom built barns with golf simulators. Pretty fun side job. Lots to learn but coming together nicely! I’ll post more updates of the final results.

I recently installed Omni PL to replace an ancient AquaLogic system. In the configuration, I selected the obvious choice for the SWG, T-15 (940), but it's actually a CircuPool Gen-15. After configuartion, the SWG icon doesn't appear on the control panel so there's no way to set the % for the SWG, except in the app.

Is there something with the Omni PL that it won't work with any SWG brand besides Hayward?

I'm excited to have found this forum with accurate information on pool care. In 2021 I purchased a Coleman above ground power steel pool 18x48 and within 6 months began having stubborn algae issues. I spent way too much time and money adding shock, that never really remedied the algae issue. I remember numerous mornings waking up and feeling discouraged that the pool had not cleared after adding shock the night before and running the filter all night. I then bought a chlorine generator hoping that would help. However, the salt only contributed to the rusting of the pool supports, and the pool has was sent to the dump last week.
This past week I purchased a new Intex Ultra XTR (18x52) and am in the process of filling it ( we have 10K gallon rainwater catchment and I fill the pool in stages so as not to use up our catchment tank water). I also ordered the TF 100 test kit and have a supply of liquid chlorine and will stock up on other required chemicals to correctly maintain the new pool.
I believe that my use of Pool Time chlorine tablets and shock contributed to ongoing High CYA levels and inconsisitent chlorine levels. Of course I was using test strips, so I had poor pool chemistry level data to follow. Secondly, I live in East Hawaii (Hawaii Island) with over 140 inches of rain annually. Overall, we tend to have rain overnight that can accumulate to be 1 inch or more with larger storm systems. Since there was so much water in a short period of time filling the pool from rainstorms, the chlorine levels were reduced and algae began to grow.
The pool location has no overhanging branches and receives full sun from 10 AM-2PM and then partial sun until 4 PM.
Thank you to everyone who has worked on creating and maintaining this awesome website! I promise to test and correct my pool water daily going forward and to follow the instructions on this site!

Help! We closed our pool for the first time by ourselves last fall. I was excited/nervous to open it. All was going well until water hit the sand filter. It’s spraying out. I’m hoping this is an easy, quick fix we can handle ourselves.

Just opened pool today. Pressure much higher than normal (22) on Filter with weak jets; pressure 10 on Recirculate with strong jets, so it's the filter that's causing the high pressure. Filter usually runs about 10-15. I have a Hayward sand filter with 350 lbs. sand. Sand was replaced before last season & was fine last year.

Pool is 10 yrs. old & never had this issue before. Some algae on opening but not out of the ordinary.

I have seen in some older threads that algae in the sand filter could be causing the high pressure. So my question is, do you Slam on Recirculate and then when done put the valve back on Filter & pressure should go down gradually? Or do you want to "Slam" filter at the same time?

Thanks.

Budget preferably under $700-800. I am currently looking at the Evo 604iq but the one I had from a few years ago I remember the app not having a schedule feature just the ability to operate it from the app. I do not have wifi at the location so manually starting it from the app each time is a no go, I need one that I can set it up one time with a hotspot and program in the schedule and then allow it to basically clean ~twice a week unattended. I wonder if evo has updated their app since to allow this?

Any other recommendations that can do this? Thanks!

Just switched spa back on after it had been drained for a few months. Started up fine and then after an hour or so the breaker tripped. Stupidly I just switched the breaker back on to see what would happen and it seemed to start back up fine. Then noticed overnight it was circulating but not heating. Switched it off and opened the circuit board enclosure and the heater terminal and one of the hot terminals are completely melted. My question is, can I safely just replace the circuit board and heater or is something bad with the breaker? The GFCI test button on the breaker does seem to be working. I don’t really understand how the pump was still running with the circuit board looking like this. Photos attached.

Hello, looking for some more incite on an air problem I'm having with my system. Towards the end of the season last year, I was getting a lot of small air bubbles from from first in line return jet. This year upon opening the pool, it has gotten worse. I've had a hard time getting the pump to even prime and when it does, I have major air coming from the return. I have read the pool school blog on the subject and here is what I have done to try to remedy the situation and my equipment. side note: the only air I was able to find prior to the tried remedies was water coming from the fitting going into the basket when I would shut the pump off.

All new seals in basket, and back to the pump.
New pump (I redid my electric and when ahead and installed a brand new pump. Had air problem both before and after new pump).
Replaced portion of the above ground PVC going into the basket and from the basket up to the filter.
Lubed all seals, cranked down basket lid, flushed suction line going to basket.

After all this, I saw initial improvement when starting pump. After a several minutes, it returned to having the air issue and having a hard time priming. It is a Heyward sand filter system with no chlorinator. Just looking for something I'm possibly missing or something else to try. I do have air coming out where the pump mounts to the basket assembly, I have no idea if this is normal or not (seems to be coming from the external parts of the threaded holes). Free and open to answer any questions on anything I have posted. Attached are before and after pics of the plumbing and a video. Thanks in advance!

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Earlier this year I bought a Black & Decker 3HP VSP on poolpartstogo.com and have just finished its integration with the pool.



The pump is quiet and energy efficient. Here are some numbers:

2200 RPM (priming only) - 2.2A, 530W
1800 RPM (cleaning and/or intensive skimming) - 1.3A, 310W
1600 RPM (normal speed for chlorinating, 80% of running time) - 1A, 240W

Compare these numbers to my previous single-speed Jandy PHPM1.0, running always at 3450 RPM and consuming 1600 watts! When B+D is not running, its VSD drive draws 100mA, which is about 24W.

The controller is pretty simple. It runs node-red flows on Raspberry Pi with two Sequent Microsystems HATs: Building Automation and Eight Relays. High-power devices (Circupool RJ-60 SWCG and Polaris PB4-60 pump) are switched with Omron G7 relays installed in a separate relay box. Low-power contacts, such as for controlling B+D pump, are switched directly by the Eight Relays HAT.



An important part of the controller is the current transducer Senva C-2344. I have set it to 30A range and wired inside the electrical subpanel with 3 wraps of one of the lines off 20A 2-pole GFCI breaker feeding the B+D pump, so the transducer converts 0 - 10A current to 0 - 10V voltage, which is passed to one of 0 - 10V inputs (analog to digital converters) of the Building Automation HAT.

The transducer is pretty precise, with the output very close to the one derived from the B+D display by dividing power by 240V (or whatever voltage one has between the two lines ). The output from the transducer is used by the node-red flows to provide a safety mechanism preventing SWCG and Polaris booster pump from running when B+D pump is not running at appropriate speed. Here is a screenshot of the dashboard's Pool Status panel (the water temperature 10k sensor is not inserted into the pipe yet, it shows the air temperature):



Now a couple of notes on the B+D automation panel. The original panel is swapped with the automation one, which allows for 1) BAU programming of speeds 2) remote selection of one of the three preset speeds. The programming of speeds is easy: set mode to manual, press speed1 button and set it to a desired value, press speed2 and set the value, and so on. The speeds programmed this way are remembered after power disconnect. The speeds can be modified when the panel is in manual mode, but only if the pump is not currently running. (BTW, the manual mode is the only valid mode with the automation panel.)

One more thing, which is not mentioned in the automation manual.



The priorities of inputs in the above diagram, from the highest to the lowest, are: IN1, IN2, IN3. This allows for multiple speeds to be scheduled at the same time, the highest priority input being effectively selected. To lower the number of entries in the schedule, we can superimpose higher priority speeds on top of the lower ones, like in the schedule below:



Controller features:
[EDITED 9/30/2023]

• VSP scheduling at three preconfigured speeds, with one-click schedule disabling/enabling:
  • priming (Speed1 = 2200 rpm)
  • cleaning (Speed2 = 1800 rpm)
  • chlorinating (Speed3 = 1600 rpm)
• SWCG scheduling, with one-click schedule disabling/enabling.
• Polaris pump scheduling, with one-click schedule disabling/enabling.
• Allowing the user to manually start/stop the VSP (for any of the preconfigured speeds), Polaris pump and SWCG.
• Monitoring the VSP speed with a current transducer.
• Preventing the user and the scheduler from starting the Polaris pump when the VSP current transducer doesn't report Speed2.
• Automatic stopping of the Polaris pump if the VSP current transducer stops reporting Speed2.
• Preventing the user and the scheduler from starting SWCG if the VSP current transducer doesn't report any speed (reports just a 140mA standby current).
• Automatic stopping of SWCG when the VSP current transducer stops reporting any speed (reports just a 140mA standby current).
• Measuring pool water temperature.
• Measuring enclosure temperature.
• On-off controlling, with temperature hysteresis, of the enclosure fan.
• Charting temperatures of water, controller enclosure and Raspberry Pi CPU for the last 12 hours.
• Sending an email alarm when the VSP current exceeds expected values, indicating, for example, an obstruction in water flow.
• Sending an email alarm when the VSP current is close to 0, which may indicate a tripped circuit breaker.
• Sending "alarm cleared" email when the VSP current returns to normal levels.
• Secure, password protected and TLS-encrypted Internet-wide UI.

A link to this project's public repository on github:
[GitHub - hexabc/pool-ctrl: Raspberry Pi / node-red based pool controller]

Hello - one of my first posts, so go easy on me

My pool is ~5 years old, regular chlorine pool, and regular white plaster. About 3 weeks ago I noticed a rust spot that my pool guy said would not come off despite his tricks (i.e., vitamin c, little sandpaper, etc.). So I called the pool company that built the pool, and they sent out the company that plastered the pool. The plaster company said that improper water chemistry had caused the plaster to thin, which allowed water into the gunite (which is porous) that rusted the rebar. Then the rust came to the surface. The rest of the pool looks amazing to me, with no other trouble spots.

I'm clueless about this, so wanted to get your thoughts on water chemistry causing this problem. In my research, it seems these issues are caused by rebar poking through the gunite, or the plaster being too thin. Attached are some pics, which are after the plaster folks dug away some of the plaster. The circle spot is about the size of a quarter. I really don't want to spend the ~$1000 to patch the spot, or completely redo the plaster.

Is this caused by improper water chemistry? Is it normal for plaster to fail after 5 years? Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks.

My vinyl liner is leaking. Last fall I was hopeful I got the source when I found a small slice in the liner by the stairs and patched it. But the water dropped below that over the winter. It’s now at the light niche. I had plugged the back of the niche in the fall with putty. While there’s a chance that is leaking, the point where the liner is sealed to the niche is clearly leaking and now that I removed the outer ring I can see the cheap cardboard gasket behind is completely disintegrated. Will buying a replacement cardboard gasket really help to seal it or should I be using something else? (I’m pretty sure the gasket is Hayward Spx0506d) And how best to seal behind the liner? Butyl tape? Putty? I can see water going in behind the liner now that the ring is off. If the back of the niche is leaking I’ll need to fix this first anyway.

Thanks in advance!

So I’m “working” from home today, and got bored and decided to try making a reference CYA solution.

I did 12 grams of granules to 12 liters of RODI water, which should yield a 1000ppm solution I can then dilute to whatever target.

Has anyone else done this? If so, how’d it go?

Does it need to be fixed right away? If not, will it get much worse if I leave it alone?

Not sure how long I'll live here, would rather not spend the money unless it has to be fixed as soon as possible.

thanks.

P.S. Sorry for double post. Just found this section.

I've cleaned the salt cell with water/muriatic acid combo and all scale was dissolved. New pool construction, built in July 2024. Pentair Intellichlor model #IC20. It's still not generating chlorine......any ideas to get this issue resolved? It was generating chlorine until around January 2025.