How do you check to see if the water temp sensor is working that does to a Pentair Panel?

My MasterTemp 400 shows erratic temperatures on the board. It is controlled by my Pentair Panel. It goes through the startup of 128 r13 but never starts. It initially shows a temp of 78 and then jumps to 120 something and stays there.
I checked the Thermistor and it shows 9.5 ohms. I had a spare one that I installed and still the same results.
It was working fine a couple of days ago, but now no go.

Any ideas?

I have a 20' round above ground pool. I've used a sand filter + SWG for the past 8 years.

Backwashing and having to refill + add salt is kind of annoying, and with the addition of a Nautilus CC this season, I'd really like to make the pool as hands-free as possible in our short season (mid-may until mid september).

I was looking at getting the Hayward SwimClear 525 sqft filter but noticed the plumbing won't even match my current plumbing (2” x 2.5” vs 1.5") so made me take a step back.

Can I go TOO big with a cartridge filter?

An old 28k pool with a built in spa (no heater anymore). We are planing to replace concrete and coping around the pool and would like to eliminate the spa. Spa has 2 drains and 5 returns)
Can we just fill it up (cap the returns to spa)? Main pool has 3 returns

I've seen some older threads on this, but wanted to get some new comments and input on these tools.

We've had our pool for a year now and I am about to perform the first clean before we jump in this season. I initially started seeing things like the Cyclone Pool Filter Cleaner and the Cart Clean Pro, which is basically just a stand to place your filter on. They spin while you spray them and I guess it flings the crud out too. Definitely not paying that price when I can just use a broom handle, but then that led me to what attachment would be best? What's everyone's thoughts on these?

- High pressure nozzle - seems like a safe bet, but basically the same idea as using a regular garden hose?
- Aqua Comb looks pretty good except it looks like it's all ABS plastic. I like the idea of the combs getting in between the pleats, but it would be tedious work trying to get in between every single pleat.
- Filter Flosser made of aluminum so that's good. Not sure it can really get in between the pleats very well though.

Also, what is the safest thing to be soaking the filters in or spraying onto them before hosing them down? Would like to prolong the life of these filters as much as I can. I'm wondering how much buildup from oils and sunscreen would even in between the pleats. We don't have a spa/heater, so we are only swimming between May to September or so. The skimmer baskets have socks built into them to catch any large debris and we have no overhanging trees. It's actually pretty open and we just have two young crepe myrtles on the other side of the fence.

Once my Pool was pretty balanced and everything was going great I decided to Outsource the testing to my daughter and she keeps me updated, this past few weeks, it’s been much warmer here in Houston and she told me that the pool chlorine keeps dropping need tons of chlorine to the point where she was putting in a gallon a day yesterday I checked the pool myself it was at a 1 chlorine level. The pool had leaves so we cleaned it out should I try to slam it? If so, can you lead me to that instructions? I also have family coming in on Thursday so if I start today, would it be usable by Friday?
Also, we have not changed the filter. Is that something you recommend we do ourselves and if so, where can I find how to do that? Any other suggestions you can give would be wonderful and appreciated.

Hi all. Have a Hayward PowerFlow Matrix, manufactured 2020. At the end of last season, it seemed to be running louder than usual. Worked fine until end of season. Decided to do some checking (the mounting base was totally rusted - though I believe that's from skimmer water leaking and setting at the pump base - not a seal issue.

Anyway, I can't get the impeller off no how, and Im also not sure if there's too much resistance on it - doesn't seem to spin easily to me, and there is a slight scraping noise.

15sec video - Login to view embedded media
Do you guys think there is more of an issue here or just throw it back together and run it? No one locally services them it seems. Thanks.

Hey everyone -

My FC is at 8.0 and CYA is 40-50. Pool math app puts that at the top of the recommended range. Is this ok for swimming? My kids are getting anxious

My FC comes down very slowly after opening and shocking cuz I have the solar cover on all the time. I have turned the SWG off.

Thanks!

I have two Raypak heaters that worked fine (having had their fair share of issues through the years) into last summer. I am prepping the pool to open for 2025 and I noticed the rust at the bottom of the heaters had broken through in places. I made it worse by touch the holes - the layer is paper thin at this point. Heaters were placed in service in the late fall 2010 and first used in 2011, so they delivered good life for me. Having said that, it would be great to get another year or two of service out of them. Attaching a photo of the area that concerns me. Rest of heaters look OK. Pool heater and spa heater have similar rust and breakage below the tray.

Thoughts?

I need to pick up a Hayward OmniPL upgrade kit to replace my dying old Hayward ecommand 4 system. Any recommendations for a reputable online supplier? It’s not cheap so I want to make sure I get a new unit and don’t get taken and end up with a refurbished or used unit from a shady supplier.

The past 2 weeks my calcium test results have been abnormally high, jumped from ~460 to 550. I also had to retest due to color indicator not changing. This past weekend, we noticed blonde hair turning green. I took water samples to Leslie's for metal testing. Pool water was 1.2ppm, hose water was 0.6ppm. The tech told us that many people have had high copper recently due to rains, pollen and mosquito sprays. We have an autocover, but do light a mosquito incense candle next to pool when it's open. Pool is 5 months old. I've never added algaecide. I've added CYA, borates, and chlorine in the past, and muriatic acid regularly.

My question is: is this copper level concerning for a heater coil issue, or could it be an environmental cause?

I had a drain cover get broken at the end of the season last year. I removed it with the intention to replace it, but forgot. Now I’m trying get my pool cleat, but I thunk the drain line is mostly clogged and I am not getting the algae on the bottom of the pool to the filter to backwash out. So I cannot catch up enough on algae removal to make a noticeable difference in cleaning. And the algae is like 3 inches of a thick sludge.
Help!

My pool was uncovered yesterday and there are a bunch of leaves in the bottom of my pool. Is there any issue with using my robot in water of this temperature and emptying the basket fairly frequently? I don't have the time to vacuum manually.

I have an Aqua Products EVO 604 robot.

Greetings, All.

New owners of a home with existing pool. Just had the pool opened, and I will have plenty of newbie questions!

Ok, I'm SLAMMING briefly as I think i'm good, doing OCLT tonight, but my last 2 tests my chlorine has gone UP and I haven't added any. My salt is 1000 so my SWG isn't working but just to confirm I shut it off. I have never had this happen but now I question my OCLT ability. I did the last 2 twice to make sure I wasn't messing up. at 4:20 I tested at 12.5, 6:40 14 and 8:20 16. Is this even possible? I only added chlorine once today. 2 gallons this afternoon to get it up to 12 for a SLAM.

I have a Speck ES90 II pump with a single speed US Motors EZ48 KSSJXRME-2238 motor. I think the seal has failed, as the motor is quite rusted. I'm hoping to replace the bearings and the seals and give it a bit more life. One of the thru-bolts snapped off when I disassembled it, but I was able to get it all apart.
My bolt is 8" long with a 1/4" hex head. I've seen some generic 8-32 thru-bolts that are 9" long, can I use those and cut them short?

I haven't pulled the bearings yet. The markings on the bearing are 6203DW, which sounds like a fairly standard bearing. The shaft looks quite rusted around the bearing. I'm hoping to get a bearing puller to remove it. Do you think this is possible given the corrosion?
If the motor is too far gone, I would also be interested in swapping out the motor for a variable speed motor, while keeping the Speck pump part. Can I find another 48-frame variable speed motor to swap out?

My pool is due for a renovation. The main issue is the infinity edge is leaking causing water to get behind the weir wall stone and behind the catch basin pebble finish. Everything on the “dry” side of the weir wall is delaminating. I had 3 highly recommended pool contractors come take a look and provide a quote. The first contractor came out in June, the 2nd contractor came out in early July, and the 3rd contractor came out last week. I have received no quotes and only “we are working on it”. Is it typical to wait months for a quote? I realize my renovation is more complex than usual, but months to quote seems excessive. I’m now considering doing the tile and stone repairs myself and hiring a plaster company to refinish the pebble. Is that crazy? I’ve done tile and stone repairs on the pool already. One of the pool contractors even complimented the work without knowing I did the repairs.

Hi guys. I just took over taking care of my pool and it's been going okay, but I don't think the suction is working well enough as the pool has looked a little cloudy and there is detritus at the bottom of the pool despite the chems looking good (Leslie's testing).

The pool is about 12,000 gallons. I run my Intelliflo at 1500 RPM for 8 hours, then at 2400 RPM for 2 hours. At 1500 RPM, the crawler doesn't move and there is zero water moving through the skimmer. At 2400, the movement is okay on both. Maybe I'm misremembering, but I think the water used to flow pretty well through the skimmer when it was on 1500 RPM. The filter is clean (I cleaned it only about 2 months ago) and the skimmer and pump baskets are clean. I got a drain king and flushed the pipes fairly quickly, but didn't see any obvious problems. I flushed the air out of the filter and I backwashed for a minute or two a few times. I also unscrewed the valve that diverts the water to the skimmer or crawler and it was clear inside.

Should the crawler and skimmer be moving pretty well at 1500 RPMs? Any ideas to get the water moving better besides raising the RPMs? Thanks very much!

Sold and shipped by Amazon. Is it fake? To me it's 100% not original. Doesn't add any pressure even while cleaning algae.

Pool is open and want to get the pool testing underway to get the balancing done. Are there any concerns with water temp affecting the results in the TFP kit?

Hi all,

I just finished the installation of a brand new Intelliph and I’m looking for a sanity check…

My rotor rotates CLOCKWISE and based on the instructions, the INLET is the right tube and the OUTLET is the left tube. Wouldn’t this setup be pulling water from the OUTLET side and feeding into the tank?

When I do a manual dispense, I see bubbles coming from the intake tube and entering the tank.

There is also an UP arrow on the right inlet and a DOWN arrow on the left inlet.

Can anyone confirm which way the rotor SHOULD be rotating?

And, is there a way to invert its rotation?

I’ve included pics, and here’s a link to a video:


Thank you!

I have a pool + spa ~15000 gallons combo with a variable speed 1HP pump and heater. The pool is able to either circulate pool only, spa only, or spa spillover into pool. Does anyone have any recommendations of a schedule to maximize efficiency of the pump and also the heater so the spa doesn't loose too much heat due to circulation? So far, it seems that I am getting a chlorine loss of about 1-1.5 ppm a day. In addition, does any one have any tips or guides of a good rpm for the pump for the pool and spa mode?

For the past at least 10 years I have used a 90 day algaecide in my pool in the North Fl summer months. This past winter because of health issues I lost my pool for the first time ... Green/black a mud pit. Anyway all fixed for the past month but Ive not had the sparkly water Ive had all my pool use days. 2 days ago I put in my 90 day algae prevention copper based and my pool is super sparkly again ... finally. So Ive read about potential issues with hair, equipment and God knows what else. I don't want to start an argument but I find it much easier to use the "liquid chlorine" method (more forgiving) for taking care of my pool.

WHY should I not use Copper in my pool? Looking for answers. IS it dangerous in some way to my and others health? Oh I have a cheap ... cheaper than an in-ground pool 16x32 Intex pool that I love and have loved for 4 years now. Way cheaper and easier to maintain than a $45,000 hole in the ground.

Where do you get good straps for attaching your solar cover to the pool cover reel. The ones you buy with the attachment (plastic) hardware disintegrate in the heat and sun of Arizona. Any suggestions as to where to buy some more durable strapping?

I have 3 year old Blue Works Model BLH60-A SWG. I moved my pool equipment to a covered warmer place this past summer so I did not close my pool this winter. I notice back in the fall the salinity read 2200 despite knowing it was higher - assumed it was due to colder water temp. Today officially tried to make sure the pool was ready for the summer - water temp 69 deg F. Measured salinity with electronic reader and it was over 3400.
I cleaned the SWG with muriatic acid water mixture for 30 min.

Afterwards it still reads 2200 -- I wouldn't worry about inaccurate reading but after running the pool and SWG for 12h or so I get a "SLO" error. I am prtty sure some chlorine is being generated but nowhere near normal amount.

Sugggestions for troubleshooting or fixing?

Thanks!!

Hi! I am new to the forum. Wife and I have a 30000 gallon inground pool (I tried measuring it and it comes out to more like 25-28,000 gallons) and I am wanting to purchase something I can put in the water and have it reasonably clean the
over-winter muck from the pool floor. This pool has a 4' deep shallow end and 8' deep end. I am 61 years old and the constant strain of trying to vacuum it out (only to hear my pump
run dry after a few minutes of vacuuming) is taking its toll in the hot summers here in Opelika, Al.

I don't mind vacuuming , but want a robotic cleaner to cut down on losing all that water going out the Waste pipe (75 gallons a minute!)

I don't have $2000 for a unit, and don't care to have a Polaris that requires a separate pump, so am wondering if something like the Aiper Seagull Pro ZT6002, Dolphin Nautilus CC, or Aqua Products Evo614iq might
do the trick, although I couldn't care less about wifi on a pool cleaner.

I will listen, with gratitude, to any advice given.

Thanks!

-Thomas

I have a Maytronics M600 that is now out of warranty. The unit will start forward, start backwards, and the impeller will go for a few second. At that time it shuts off and indicates with the Red LED on the front of the cleaner and ultimately the red ring on the power supply. Things I have looked at:

1. impeller is clear of any debris, and it moves freely in both directions
2. I have cleaned all intakes and debris basket
3. brushes and gears work in both directions
4. no moisture in the motor box
5. no burnt up ends, cables, or connections that can be seen in the motor box of the unit
6. tested the battery pack and got 29
7. looked at the internals of the anti-twist cable enclosure and none of the connections in the plug are damaged or corroded
8. tested continuity from the anti-twist device to the motor of the unit and it does

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone,


This is the first time I am posting to this forum, though I have been reading it for a while now, and it's been eye-opening. I live in Las Vegas, and I am getting ready for the new pool season. I'll be draining my pool (water has been 3 years old) and refilling it. I’ve been using chlorine tablets all these years, which has led to a significant increase in CYA levels. Last summer, it was very difficult to keep my pool clean, and I assume the high CYA levels were the reason, as they required more and more chlorine to prevent algae (?)


From my understanding, after reading posts on this forum, I should switch to liquid chlorine. With the appropriate test kit, I plan to test the chlorine frequently and adjust the levels by only adding liquid chlorine. If I do this, is there still any reason to empty and refill my pool every three years? Or is this something pool companies/service recommend because they use chlorine tablets, and they know that CYA levels get out of control after three years, thus requiring a water replacement to start over?


Lastly, if I need to leave for some time during the summer, would it be okay to hire someone to add tablets just for that period? Or could this still be detrimental to my CYA levels? Asking that, becasue it’s difficult to find someone who can come every two days to check the chlorine and add liquid chlorine as frequently.


Thank you all for your help!


Regards,

Tasos

I thought I would give a DIY automation a try. I originally started with some old compool parts and a pi zero w and a small electrical panel from Amazon. I was thinking small and compact, which was a terrible idea, think sun touch.
I don’t know python, but I know enough JavaScript. Using the onoff library I was able to get the gpio to control the 8 channel relay. This relay has a maximum load of 10amps. So good enough to handle actuators and higher load relays and fireman switch. The transformer is from cp3600, it steps down to 24, 18, and 12 vac. I should also mention the relay is a nc/c/no, so this works perfect for controlling actuators. The 24 vac was used to control the actuators. I used a ac/dc buck converter on the 20vac converting it to vdc to control the high voltage relays. On the 10vac I used another buck converter to drop it down to 5vdc to power the pi zero. The idea was to minimize space, I was trying to avoid having to add an outlet for a 24vdc power supply, and usb.
As far as the framework, I am using nodejs express onoff. The pi is running headless and serving up the ui using express.
Here is the repo if you like bad code.
The part that I didn’t realize would take so much time is planning the layout inside the panel. Creating dividers for high and low voltage, and making everything accessible and replaceable. I used blender and cura for the prints. If I was to do it again, I would just use a larger panel. Here is the progress so far, I’ll continue to update as I go. Please feel free to critique and advise.

I noticed on the the Pentair Pool App, there is no longer an option for SWG percentage for spa mode. I verified that my IC40 no longer produces when in spa mode. I know previously you could choose up to 20% during spa operation. I sent the question to Pentair support, but they never answered the question. Any ideas on why they did that?

I replaced my flow sensor recently and cleaned the cell grids. I replaced the sensor because after a few minutes of running, i would get no flow. The board tested fine per the test instructions from jandy. Even after replacing the sensor, I still get no flow after a few minutes of running. This is with a clean DE filter and adequate flow to run suction side vacuum and spa spillover.

The pool is about 3 years old. I live in the CA high desert and have high calcium levels. Right now, 650ppm. I don't want to drain the pool every year and have read that higher calcium levels are OK so long as ph and alkalinity are well managed, and negative csi is sustained. I monitor water chemistry religiously and pool is always balanced.

The grids show some corrosion, but it doesn't seem excessive to me. The few minutes when the cell is running, i see bubbles from the returns as i normally would, so I believe it is working.

My questions:
1. Is it possible that the cell has failed and needs to be replaced? I don't imagine that a failing cell would cause no flow, and I assume it would throw error codes of some sort?
2. It also seems as if the pool builder wired the aquapure system to be always on. I have a current generation jandy VS pump with the PUMPIQ01 controller. I assume that the aquapure system should be wired to the pumps auxiliary. There are no relays in the aquapure electrical box.
3. The pool was built just three years ago. If it's supposed to be wired so that the aquapure system is completely off when the pump isn't running, I intend to reach out to the builder and ask that the problem be corrected.

Oddly, I'm able to sustain adequate chlorine levels with pump running 8 hours per day on high and the cell set to 50%, which makes me believe it is cycling between flow and no flow throughout the day. I haven't had hours to sit and watch the system as it runs as i work full time, have young kids, and am trying to wrap up a masters degree at the moment.

I appreciate any help that can be provided. I love this site and the TFP method has helped me have an algae free crystal clear pool since the day we first filled it. I'm just at my wits end with the generator. I'm tempted to throw in the towel and just use liquid chlorine at this point as it would be easier than spending hours fooling around with the generator that doesn't work dependably.

Help me TFP, you're my only hope... Other than paying a pool company way too much money to come figure this out for me! LOL