My pool has a Paramount in-floor system. It runs ALL the time if the pumps are on. PB says it’s connected to the vanishing edge setting on my phone and turning that off will turn it off. Spoiler: turning off vanishing edge doesn’t turn it off.

I’ve noticed turning off Vanishing Edge does NOT turn off the pump completely. I don’t know how to turn it off completely but am guessing that maybe that’s what needs to happen to turn off the in floor cleaners.
Here is what I’m finding in my iaqualink

Vanishing edge of, in-floor cleaners still running.

VSP settings

My Jandy JXI gas heater wont fire up because it thinks the water temperature is too high. I ordered a replacement water temp sensor online and just replaced it but it still thinks the temp is 142 F. I tested the new sensor with a multimeter checking the ohms and it reads properly. Where should I go from here? Thanks to everyone in advance.

35000 gallon pool
CYA: 50
PH: 7.6
Alkalinity: 90
Calcium Hardness: 300

Tested water around 1PM yesterday and had 5 FC (I use the powder FAS DPD test kit).

Decided to wait about an hour and add 2 quarts of 10% liquid chlorine to have FC at about 6 by 6PM (2 quarts would normally add about 1.5ppm).

Tested water at 6PM and FC was at 13. This means that the 2 quarts of liquid chlorine added somewhere between 8 and 10 ppm (assuming no "burn off" or a "burn off" of 2ppm).

I also had this happen one day last week, but thought it was a "one off" and decided to ignore.

Just wondering if there are sometimes quality control issues with liquid chlorine which result in a super strength liquid. Any other possible explanations?

Hi everyone,

Just bought a house, and I’m keeping a pool for the first time in 25 years. (details in signature)

Previous owners did zilch for maintenance and upkeep, relying on pool services or equipment failure to prompt them to do anything.

They also left zero documentation, so it’s quite the discovery project.

Looking forward to learning the world of filters, actuated valves, remote control, and automation.

I bought a new heater and took the opportunity to pour a new concrete pad prior to installing. (Old pad was pieced together plastic bases)

Pad is approximately 6'x3' and I accidentally sloped it too much in the 3 foot direction (total drop of 1" in the 3ft). It's pretty flat in the long dimension.

I'm worried if the equipment (specifically the heater) will be ok installed with that much slope? I took a picture to give a visual sense of the install. I took the pic when the phone indicated it was level so the pic is pretty accurate to what it looks like in person.

Do you think it'll be ok? Should I try to shim the heater to level it out before making final connections?

Id appreciate any thoughts on this.

Thanks
Ron

How long after adding chemicals does it take for them to get fully mixed in the pool, so that you can test the new level accurately? In case it's different for different chemicals, I am particularly interested in liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and cya (which I put in the skimmer).

My pool is 24K gallons and I use the TF-100 test kit.

Thank you.

My Jandy has a lit green LCD display but their is nothing on the screen. The system was purchased in March. What can I do?

Hello all. I searched for many threads dealing with sta-rite heaters but don't see the same issue I'm having. Looking for ideas on what it could be and what to attempt.

Turn the pool pump on, let it do its prime and get to speed. running at 3450RPM with 50GPM flow. Turn the heater on.
Fan starts up
Heating blinks orange
Hear a click and smell gas
Heating orange light turns solid
Heater doesn't fire
No diagnostics lights on the fenwal
I stopped this cycle after 5 tries but it doesn't lockout or anything else.

Any ideas on what it could be? what to test for? I'm thinking igniter?


Thank you

Alex

Bought a home last year with an inground pool. Its rectanguler, internal dimensions of 18' by 36'. Problem is, the previous owner did very little in the way of physical maintenance. He kept the chemicals balanced, but thats about it.

Looks like tiles would fall off and he would just paint over the mortar or thinset. I'm trying to retile the coping and waterline now because i could pull the tile off with my fingers. The tile was so loose it was like the previous owner was dey testing them to fit and just left then there.

One of the things I'm trying to figure out is that behind the tile was almost a 5in tall, 1 in thick piece of concrete that would stretch all around the pool. In areas this too had fallen off and he just painted over it. I'm not sure what it is and how I can repair/replace it. Any thoughts? Trying to attach some photos. The photos show the general disrepair but a couple show how that concrete bar (for lack of a better term) just ends where it broke off. One is from a top down to show the clear separation of that concrete bar from the rest of it.

Hello new to the ultratemp and cant get it to turn on from my intellitouch. It works manually and has the heartbeat indicator and no error messages. It will just say pool idle and display the water temp on the screen.

Screenlogic shows the heat pump and will let me turn on heat pump only but it just keeps flashing.

Yellow/green in J7 and pin 2/3 on the ultratemp. I added a solar temp probe,tried increasing gpm on my pump with mo luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I opened back in mid April and water had been clear and aside from shocking when I opened, adding a couple bags of salt, and CYA, I haven’t added anything else to the pool thus far. Salt was 2700 about 4 weeks ago and now 2600. FC has been steady and not dropping so clearly enough for SWCG to generate enough chlorine. Any other benefit to getting salt level up to 3200ish? Or should I just leave alone since it’s still producing FC and water is clear?

Hello, I’m in need of some guidance. I need to replace the pentair quad 80 cartridge filters x 4. They are not cheap in price. Any idea of possible options for the OEM 178655 filter. Please advise. Thank you

I am using ProTeam Metal Magic since there are small amounts of copper in my pool (see here), and so far it has been working to stop turning blonde hair green. I was hoping it would remove the copper through the filters, but it only seems to go from 0.2ppm to 0.15ppm before raising back to 0.2 again.

The ProTeam Metal Magic instructions say to turn the SWG off during treatment and to make sure the FC is around 1ppm, and to avoid shocking for at least a week. So my questions:

1. When my FC drops to 0, when can I turn the SWG back on to start raising it?
2. Can I turn it back on after 48 hours, or does that need to stay off for a week?
3. Or should I use liquid chlorine to raise to 1ppm again?

Unfortunately the ProTeam Metal Magic only seems to be preventing the green hair for around 2-3 weeks. I have a vinyl liner vacuum now, so I think I'll have to bite the bullet and just drain it and re-fill to get rid of the copper once and for all. I know about the water exchange method, but since I have a vinyl vacuum I might as well just replace it.

Hi! Have had two pools in my life. Currently have a smaller irregular inground pool and am searching for best robotic cleaner recommendations. I'm shooting for $900 max unless a $1K buys me a treasure. THX in advance.

What product would you use to patch this? I have some Kool deck paint but the thick surface bubbled and then broke.

Hello folks.

Just posting here on the SWG conversation. I have the Jandy SWG TrueClear installed when my pool was built around 3 years now. I discover that when I switch the iAqualink to Spa Mode I start seeing water drips below the SWG cell. I don't see any water getting out of the lid (at least not that I can tell).. now if I switch to pool mode .. the water drip just stopped. Not sure since when is doing that.. as we don't do the Spa Mode often. Wondering if too much pressure or if the Filter (the CS Crappy FL Filter) is the culprit.. as I remember when it was new and we used the SPA Mode several times... there was no water drip whatsoever. but again we don't use the SPA mode that much.. Maybe 1-2 times a year.. It was really a waste of money.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Moved from here.

These are my test results today. Leslie’s said they weren’t concerned with Cyanuric Acid levels, even though it’s through the roof. Told me to keep an eye on Phosphates, which I think is the least of my problems!

Should I continue to drain and add fresh water, to lower Cyanuric acid and Copper? I’m only using liquid chlorine. I’m not using tabs or Leslie’s shock anymore.

This is my 3rd season with the pool, and I’m trying to figure it out.

Thank you!

Hi TFP community,

My first time posting in here — my husband and I just bought a house and opened the pool for the first time to a complete swamp! (Photos included — the very green ones, with tons of leaves & debris).

We are hobbling along with very old equipment as well, an old cast iron Anthony Apollo VA 52 DE filter.. which fills up in about 30 minutes because of how dirty the pool is, but due go a broken backwash valve we have to take the whole thing apart to clean. So it’s just been a process we try to chip away at in the evenings.

The pool company originally opened and shocked with 10 gal of liquid shock. We’ve cycled the filter probably 5x and put another 5 gal of liquid shock in. We’ve also been running a robot vacuum after sucking all the leaves out. We were starting to see some progress but it was very slow progress. It went from green to cloudy to blue cloudy, but that all took us a few weeks.

I looked into the SLAM method but it seemed reliant on CYA levels and pool company said not to worry about adding CYA until it is more blue or clear. But I don’t know if the reason the process is moving so slowly is because we’re losing too much chlorine to the sun? I tested with the FAS DPD test a few weeks back and our FC and CC were about 4ppm, CYA of course at 0.

We unfortunately had to deprioritize getting her clean for a week or so due to other home repairs arising, and now we are back to green / more cloudy, and have also come back to lots of algae growth and these concerning black spots on the floor of the pool - are these black algae? Any thoughts on how to remove?

Due to the nature of how quickly our filter fills up, it’s been off for this past week, so I’m sure the combination of that + heat + lack of chlorine is what’s led to these spots. It would actually be encouraging to hear that’s the cause of them, and that they are treatable - but this is why I’m posting in here as we are not sure. We also have lots of surrounding overgrown vegetation that was recently treated with herbicides, I’m not sure if that would have anything to do with it.

Is it worth to keep at cleaning it? We’re trying to get it back to clear but it’s very hard when we both work full time. At what point does it make sense to give up and just drain it? Will we need to physically get into the pool any scrub any of this algae out?

Please help! We are brand new to pool ownership and open to any / all recommendations. I’ve included the pictures as a hopefully helpful reference.

Thank you in advance,
Grace

Good morning! Recently a friend told me about how he has been using your site to keep his pool well balanced and maintained - so I have been trying to learn how to get my pool chemicals adjusted using the method described here. We have had a few issues with our pool - first of all I live in Mexico and we had our pool built a year ago by a company that we have since heard from others is not that reputable. We also let the pool go without keeping the chemicals up while building the surrounding patio - so that was definitely our fault - and we had a lot of algae. We have since had the pool serviced and up to this point we were using the Tri-Chlor chlorine - as well as shock. But I bought the Taylor 2600 test kit and just ran the numbers for the first time. We are past due for adding chlorine - but I wanted to see what else I need to adjust before adding chlorine. Thanks for your help and understanding - I am a complete newbee to pool care, but really want to learn how to take care of it ourselves. Here are my readings:

Pool size: 12.500 gallons
Free chlorine - 1 ppm
PH: 8.0
Acid demand - I need help with this one - it took 6 drops to bring the PH down to 7.4 - so according to table E in the booklet we should add 1.72 quarts + 2.2 fl ounces of muriatic acid.
Alkalinity: 150 ppm
Calcium Hardness: This came out super high - it took 32 drops to change the color to blue so that means it is 320
CYA: 100

We use well water in our pool - and we are in a rural environment (24 acre property) with organic matter getting into the pool (seeds blowing in) - and dirt blowing in. We are going to landscape more around the pool to try to cut back what blows in, but meanwhile we are using the net to skim the pool twice a day, and running our filter 6 hours per day.

We have seen a lot staining just recently - and when we had the pool serviced, the service man said he couldn't get it off with our brush - which is mostly plastic with some steel bristles. I just ordered a totally steel brush to try to get that off. I'm attaching a photo of the stains.

So my questions are: How to balance the chemicals in the pool? What do we do about the calcium hardness? Do we need to drain? Is there a way to get rid of the stains? Any other counsel? Thank you so much!

Misipi boy who spent career in Alaska and retired to AZ. As I like to say “I jumped out of the freezer straight into the frying pan!” I KNEW NOTHING about pools but have been learning a lot. This looks like a great site and I look forward to having access to the wealth of knowledge that must exist. Thx

TC-5
Ph-9.1
TA-50
CYA-50

There are a couple things I can think of contributing to a consistently high Ph, we have a Fastlane Swim Pro that the wife uses for her Triathlon training 3-4 times a week and the pool is about 2yrs old (plaster). My TA has been slowly dropping over the past few weeks and I know if I add sodium bicarbonate to raise it 8 will also raise the Ph.

I'm looking to see if my symptoms fit with a typical scenario before I call in the pool guy (who around here will try to sell me a new heater).
Pentair Mastertemp 250 (Canada), installed 2015, the older un-connected control board and 5 button panel. SWG DE inground Pool.
Has worked pretty flawlessly since install (while I've watched neighbours' Haywards go up in smoke, literally). Towards end of last season I noticed it reported seemingly lower temps than the pool thermometer and had to be "upped
" a few degrees to get to the temp we wanted. (I have replaced the keypad in year or two prior.)

This season while starting up I noticed some mice turds and mouse grease in the white air orifice. Nothing chewed. Cleaned the orifice, took it off, blew out the blower, it spins freely.

Heater starts up (R13) and ignites, exhausts as as normal.
256 - 303f stack temp water speed dependant
I do hear some air gurgle through each time it re-starts, but I don't see any apparent leaks.
I've noticed that I like a hotter pool the older I get. (slipped that in to see if anyone is still reading. )

Shuts down before target temp reached, "Service Heater" light, no other diagnosis LEDs lit. Controls lock out, usually I turn off and on again, but I believe that it will try to cycle and sometimes comes back on for a bit.
Amount of time before shut down varies quite a bit, from a few minutes to hours.
I noticed once or twice that the reported water temp was a few degrees higher than it really was, but it also shows normal most of the time (and I set target temp much higher to try to keep it going). Always get the Service Heater led when it shuts down.

Are there any typical cuplrits to look for or easy parts replacements? (I am handy and know how to use a MM).
My chemistry is kept pretty darn near perfect and normally CSI tends more towards negative. It is also a borated pool.

So I am wondering if first step would be to inspect and replace the Thermal Regulator or ?

(Thank you in advance for any help!!)

Electricity off after bad storms and tried to turn pump on. Will only stay on 15 seconds and then shuts off. I’ve checked the breaker and think I’ve cleared everything but don’t know next step.

Hello everyone,

Just moved to Indianapolis area and first time pool owner. The pool was opened for the pool inspection about a month and a half ago. The pump and heater needed replacing, so the water sat stagnant with no chemicals for a month and a half while we closed on the house and got someone out to work on it. Installed the 3 hp black and decker pump and a new raypak heater. I tried the slam method using bleach from Sam's club and was making no progress and never got above .4 free chlorine. Today, all the numbers are finally looking where they should be. All I've used is bleach and baking soda. I'm estatic it's where it should be. My wife was about to make me give up and call a pool company to fix it. Read lots of the forum on here and used the pool math app, so thank you all for the help!

I just installed my new pool and OmniLogic Panel. Everything is working fine with the exception of my sensors.

Both my air temp and Pool temp is not displaying. I’m not sure if the system is supposed to show a flow but I’m not getting any flow alarms.

Any advice would be appreciated. I’m very new to this pool ownership things

Any current/recent best recommendations are appreciated. It's really hard to compare them side-by-side since there are units sold only by stores vs internet vs stores + internet sales. I'm hesitating to put it all into a spreadsheet as that seems a big effort.

So I'm going on day 6 now trying to Dial my pool in

18' round pool 7630 gallons
EC40 DE 1hp pump
Frog unit with mineral dispenser bac pac & torpedo pac

I started out Sunday with my phosphates very high about 2000PPb CYA elevated 147 PH very low 6.4 TA very low at 45 CH was low at 65 as well

the water was clear but my chemistry was all out of wack

To keep it short I have drained the pool down 10" on Tuesday then about another 12" last night

my tap's PH is 7.1 so I knew I needed to give that a slight bump

WED I added 3 lbs ok Baking soda to give my Alkalinity a bump

last night 2lbs of Soda ash after adding fresh water to give my ph A bump

I know pool store tests are not the most reliable I need to invest in a real liquid test kit they are a bit pricy so for now I am using the pool store test as a guideline

todays test came back pretty good I'm happy where two of the tests are

here are my results after dosing with Baking soda on WED and Ash last night after x2 drains of 10" and 12"

FC 7.24
TC 7.24
PH 7.4 came up from 6.4 which I am happy about
TA 80 which jumped from 45
CH is still low that is at 87
CYA this is my concern though it went down from 147 it is still at 119
Phosphates 524

so with the two small water dumps and adding the soda & ash I got my PH where I want and the TA is almost there the CA is still low and the CYA is still a bit high

Do you feel i need to do another water dump to lower that CYA even further

I've never had a such an out of balance pool when opening it before I've used the Frog for close to 4 years or so now with no issue(I know most guys on here are not a fan of the frog but I've never had issues with algae or cloudy water ever so I've just kept going with works to me the water feels very comfortable to swim in and sometimes not all the time when my daughter swims in another pool she has sensitive skin she gets a little itchy never with our own pool though so I've stuck with what works)

any way I cannot pinpoint where this CYA came from I have not changed anything except what I added to the pool when I first opened it for whatever reason Instead of adding a gallon of liquid bleach to open up and shock my pool I threw green out in.Throwing the green out in is the only thing I can think of that elevated my CYA levels as I did nothing different unless King technolgy changed their formula in their torpedo packs I'm thinking the CYA came from the green out

it is what it is now there is no way of removing it from what I hear without dumping water

From your guys experience given my pool size and filtering system do you feel I need to do another water dump

the pool sits in direct sunlight probably around 6 hours a day from about 12 noon once the sun comes over my Eastern tree line until about 6 or so once it ducks down in the West and my Gazebo starts to cast a shadow over my pool so its a good 5-6 hours of straight sunlight.

Like mentioned though I've never had issues before I'm just spinning my wheels this year trying to get this pool balanced out in the past I dumped a gallon of bleach in and I was good to go with minimal tinkering with the chemistry until this year which again leads me back to the one thing I changed which was going with the Green out


Thanks Guys

Hello brand new member here.
We have a moderately sized swimming pool, located outside without a cover.

Currently have very high chlorine levels.
This was spotted 8 days ago, and despite not adding any more Chlorine the last 8 days, and having glorious sunshine, the chlorine level doesn’t appear to have dropped.

We’ve recently added about 6-10” of fresh water to the pool but this doesn’t seem to have made any impact.

Just wondering if anyone had any simple solutions before turning to adding some other chemicals to try and bring it down?
Thanks

Good day all,
So my subscription renews June 12. Yesterday I tried using pool math and it said premium subscription required. I pressed subscribe and I was back in. This morning same thing pops up. Why isn’t it subscribing me? On my iPhone under my Apple ID under subscriptions pool math is listed there and says renews now June 12 of 2024. Any suggestions?