Need advice on which path

Been looking to upgrade the tiny 10” sand filter on my intex 7500 gallon pool. Been looking for used and new setups, used are scarce and new are 5x the price they should be if even available. I live in the north so swimming will only be about 4 months.

so i found a free old pureflo fiberglass filter, 200 lbs!! Lol. Also got a Hayward valve for $50. My questions are:

Should i continue with this filter and valve and look for a pump?, i can get a 1hp pump fairly cheap.

Or sell the valve, get rid of the filter and keep looking?

If i keep the filter id like to go to clamp style plumping but im not sure how to do this along with trying to connect to my intex. Looks to be 1.5” schd 40 and 80 on the valve and filter.


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Intex Sand Filter Pump Blowing Sand In The Pool

We bought a used Intex 2800gph sand pump from someone we know. I believe it’s a 2017 or 2018 model. When we first got it we changed the sand and it was blowing sand in the pool consistently so we did the following things:

- Bought new laterals and new sand pipe
- Bought different sand, HTH Pool Sand #20 Silica. When we put the new sand in we added water like others have said.

Then, the pump was only blowing sand in the pool after a backwash. It would blow a little bit for 10 minutes and stop.

- So we bought a new valve because we read it could be a spider gasket. We pretty much replaced the entire inside compartment of the pump.

Today we noticed that the pool seems to be blowing a little bit of sand in the pool when it first turns on from the timer and then it stops. And still after a backwash, and stops. Also, we always rinse after for 1-2 minutes after a backwash.

I have no idea what is wrong. The sand is filled between the min and the max. We read good reviews from other Intex pool owners on the sand that we bought.

Help with a Bestway valve!

Hey guys,

I ended up having an extra Bestway pool as it didn't fit my yard, so I shipped it to a friend of mine. She told me that the parts in the photo seem to not be working. I checked for replacement parts and they're all backordered, do you think I could use these Intex parts for it? Super clueless, I'd appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thank you!

This is the pool I sent: Bestway Power Steel Deluxe Series 20' x 48" Above Ground Pool Set - Sam's Club
And these are the parts I'm looking at:

Would I need anything other than these two parts btw?



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New owner of old Pool & Spa

New pool/spa owner in Minnesota as of September 2020. We have a 30,000 gallon vinyl, inground, heated pool and cover with a solar cover each night manually. Started with crystal clear pool in September 2020 which was being serviced weekly by pool company 1. After taking over in September, taking advice and using chemicals from Pool Company 1, pool turned green after just a few weeks. Switched pool companies late fall as their prices were very high on everything. Found Pool Company 2, winterized, opened, converted to salt chlorinator and had new sand filter & valve replaced this Spring as they were broken. Pool Company 2 did the installation of the salt chlorinator and the sand filter/valve. Following their advice, we were expecting to have a crystal clear pool and have been struggling with cloudiness this entire Spring. In the last few days with high heat, the pool is starting to turn green. I have water tested weekly, sometimes more and have been following the recommendations from the second pool company to a tee which has not been fixing cloudiness. I have high phosphates, tried phosphate remover twice, to no avail. Have been shocking, adding muriatic acid, metal remover, have flocked a few times and vacuumed to waste many times, added 6 more bag of salt. Today I brought a water sample into the second pool company, had them use 1/2 the water, then brought the other half from the same bottle to a third pool company and got slightly different results and different advice. Cleaning my sand tonight which the third pool company recommended since I didn't know to run sand cleaner after phosphate remover. Then I'm trying Pool Juice 911. I feel like I'm a clueless chemist dumping chemicals into my pool and then sending $$$ down the drain when I vacuum. I have a Polaris robot but only use her (Rosie) about once a week. I added skimmer socks which have been very good at containing the smaller particles and cottonwood seeds. Haven't had to backwash since I added the skimmer socks three weeks ago, pressure stays constant at 19.

I joined the FB Salt Water Pools group and have seen many people recommend TroubleFreePools, so here I am ready to SLAM before switching pool companies again. I've learned a lot in the last 9 months, but I'm not sure I'll ever trust a pool company again. Seems there only motivated to sell chemicals. I've read in several places not to be concerned with phosphates as long as free chlorine, and pH is good. Any advice is MOST welcome!

Below are the numbers from the two different pool companies from the same bottle today 6/16/2021 (pool is cloudy and starting to turn green):

FactorPool Company 2 resultsPool Company 3 results
Free Chlorine2.632.5
Total Chlorine2.842.6
Combined Chlorine0.21
Iron0.100.6 (combined metal test, they don't test separately)
Phosphate50924000 (high as their equipment will go)

Pump and heater wiring causing: Water sw open error

My automation panel is still on order, so my electrician temporarily brought main power from my panel, to a disconnect box ( similar to what you'd have for an air conditioner ) Anyway both my intelliflo vsf and raypak 266k heater is powered from that box.
again this is supposed to be temporary until I get my panel.
The heater is throwing Water sw open errors because when the pump stops.. there is nothing except the heaters flow switch to stop the heater.
Should I just run my pump 24/7 at 41 gpm flow so there is always enough flow for heater..
How do people usually do this?
I am trying to run a schedule ( basically run for 8 hours.. off for 5. run for 4.
If you try to use the internal scheduling of the pump.. how do you control the heater to be in sync..
Or can I just rely on the flow sensor switch in the heater ... that seems wrong to me...

Need some lighting advice!

Hi folks,

Looking for some advice on lighting. Just replaced the liner with Merlin Island Onyx- looks spectacular. Now onto lighting... one of our bulbs is bad, so we can either direct replace with the same halogen, or upgrade to the Pentair Intellibright 5G color.

I love the idea of a party mode for night swims, but two things are giving me pause-

1. The liner is pretty dark- will we get the full lighting effect?

2. I'm reading lots of horror stories with the Intellibright 5g. Not reliable, overpriced for what you get.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Pentair Microbrite help

Just had three microbrites installed and the pool company goes as far as the junction box. Can anyone help me with how to connect to easy touch? I can’t find solid instructions for connecting multiple microbrites (colored) to easytouch 4with intellitouch2. Do I need transformer, controller, anything else. Pool companies suck nowadays! No communication for new pool owners and I feel overwhelmed with this stuff.

Liner issue

My pool was installed late last year and it was only open for a few weeks before being closed. Only a couple days after it was filled up a very faint line started to appear. The guy who installed and treated the pool said he would take care of it before closing for the winter, but never did

I just recently opened it and after treating the water and having it clear up I noticed the white line is much more apparent. See attached.

It does not come up with brushing.

I was wondering what would be causing it and what is best to remove it. I have a vinyl liner.


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Brand new 33 Feet round AGP a few questions

This is our very first pool. My 33 feet round AGP was installed Monday and should be finished filling up this evening so I can turn my pump/filter on and start adding chemicals. I have my TF-100 test kit and speedstir magnetic stirrer. I have my bleach, borax, stabilizer, baking soda etc all ready. My wife and kids are beyond ready to swim.

How long after all the chemicals are added would it be ready to swim in?

Do I wait for all my levels to be completely stable before they swim?

Any other suggestions of things I need to do or get?

OmniLogic SWG Schedule?

So I just swapped out the ProLogic my PB sold me with my pool build for an OmniLogic HLBASE.
Im using the existing T15 Cell from the ProLogic and I have a TriStar 950 VSP.

So tonight I noticed that after all the pumps and such for the pool shut down in the app the chlorinator shows ON but says pump off.
When I look at Diagnostics it shows voltage but no current.

On the proLogic there was no option to set a schedule for the SWG, I was under the impression that it only runs when the pump runs.

Do I need to set a schedule for this on the omni? Or is the fact that it show On just a facade and its only truly on when the pump is running?

If I do set a schedule does the SWG % still adhere while that schedule has it on? e.g. does it still only run for 65% of the time during that set schedule? I set a schedule for now till i figure this out.

@mas985 I was hoping you may know the answer.




Algae, transition from tabs to liquid chlorine, and using CYA level to better protect against algae

First post as brand new to TFP. We are up in years and despite our having very little to no pool traffic, we keep it up and running all year round. The pool is our first and came with the purchase of the home 16 years ago. Most every year we’ve experienced varying amounts of yellow algae while having always used 3” tabs in floats to chlorinate the pool water. We presently want to switch over to liquid chlorine and have purchased the TF-100 test kit intending to soon rely on in-range and maintained CYA and capable chlorine levels to eliminate our perennial algae issues. We are self taught in pool maintenance and ownership and apart from a re-plaster of 1 year ago, we have fully repaired and maintained every aspect of the pool to this date ourselves.
Now, hopefully that suffices as an introduction for the time being. Our question to you fellow pool owners is, Should we plan to break down, fully clean, and recharge our diatomaceous filter before or after initiating shock as part of readying process for the transition?
And just for the record, we live in Richardson, Texas, a suburb of Dallas. Our pool’s capacity is approx. 12,500 gals., and adequately equipped with a 2 hp. pump, a Pentair FNS Plus Diatomaceous Earth filter, and is, yes, in-ground and of plaster construction.

Metal stains or something else?

In the middle of a long long slam (in week 3+), I really let the pool go after a winter. I've got some stains that are just not wanting to come up with brushing and only get a little lighter when scrubbing with something like a magic eraser or something.


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When to run VS pump at higher RPM

Hi everyone, we just opened our first pool yesterday after finally getting our build completed. We have a free-form 23000(ish)k plaster pool with a VS pump. I am still trying to understand when to run the pump at higher RPM's vs running it lower for longer. When I put in chemicals (right now it is chlorine for the first 30 days), do I need to turn the pump up to a higher RPM? How about when I am brushing the walls because of the fresh plaster? If so, how long do I run it for? Right now I have it set to run 23 hours on 1750 RPM. I believe someone mentioned for the first 2 weeks to run it all the time. Is that right? Sorry for all the newb questions, I just want to make sure I am doing this all correctly. Thanks!

Raised Bond Beam Construction - Vinyl Liner Steel Wall Pool

Reading through the forums it doesn't look like the raised bond beam is as common with vinyl liner pools, so I'm looking for some insight from someone who has seen this done.

I need an 18" raised bond beam at the deep end of my pool. My plan had been to pour a continuous concrete bond beam around the perimeter of the pool level with the steel wall, then build the raised wall with 3 rows of dry stacked wall blocks. Is this correct, or should it be a poured wall ?2021-05-13_8-42-00.jpgwidesheerdescent.jpg

Fiberglass Pool with high water table

Hello! We just had a fiberglass pool installed with sump and we do live in a high water area. I've read a lot about fiberglass pools and hydrostatic pressure but can't seem to find a definitive answer to a concerning question. I know about not draining the pool without extra care of pumping out the water surrounding the pool. My question is when I do check the sump it's always within a foot of the water level of the pool. I can run the sump pump and pump it all out and a week later its back up. It never goes higher than the pool level but do I need to keep pumping the water out of sump when it gets close to pool level?

Raypak digital heater 266

Hi there,
my heater (Raypak 266) started malfunctioning; basically it lights up, runs fine for 2-5 minutes, then shuts down, the ignitor kicks in - and here is the strange thing, the burners do not light up but on the control screen it shows flame is fine.
If I turn off (using the button), and turn on the same will happen (works fine for a couple of minutes, and then malfunctions).
I checked the water pressure and temperature switches - no problem there; I just changed the inginor/pilot assembly - same problem.
any ideas - suggestions?

New pool question

Just moved into a house with a pool 3 weeks ago and new to the whole testing and chemical thing. So glad I found this but wish it was before I went to a pool store for advice on day 1.

Brought water to pool store the day I moved in because my swg wasn’t working till last weekend. Replaced the flow switch. The guy said to add 7 lbs of shock Cal Hypo, 2 nst tabs in skimmer and 20 lbs of calcium.

Waited to post until my Taylor K-2006 kit came in today. Below is where I stand tonight:

PH - 7.6
FC -10
CC - 0
TA - 120
CYA - off the charts (around the 8.5 ML mark) assume it’s in the 200-300 range.

I assume I need to reduce the CYA first. Do I just keep back washing and refilling until it goes down? We have a tropical storm coming this weekend so hopping the extra rain will help.

Trying to fix brother in laws mistake

I'm frustrated and idk what to do besides drain what we have so far and I don't want to if there's anyway I can go around we have a 14x42 bestway pool. I set it up completely and all my brother in law had to do was bury the pavers, make sure it was level and start filling it. When I got off work, he was already gone. The pool is about half way full and it's off about 2 inches, he didn't bury the pavers and the liner is just about to touch them. I think we are still okay in the being off because bestway said 2 inches is fine, but now I'm panicking about the pavers. Am I going to have to start over you think?

Circupool sj45 issue

Has been working great and has cut my pump time in half...however.

It rained quite a bit a few weeks ago and I noticed the cell would give a low salt red after and hour or so. I tested the salt and it was 3500 so I brought it up to 3750. That worked for a while and now it started going red again. I tested and sure enough it’s at 3750. I’m hesitate to bring it up to 4000. Any advice or should I call tech support Monday?

Grey/brown cloud from return for a few seconds

Help? I've been looking forward to being about to solve a problem/irritation for some time....

For some time my 24ft round above ground pool with sand filter has blown a cloud of something that just looks, well, dirty, when I turn the pump on. (Say, after emptying the pump basket). Lasts just a few seconds but looks gross. I'm about to empty out the filter, completely clean it, and replace any bad laterals (sand has also got in the pool and it spits bits of dirt/tiny pieces of leaf/whatever, out the return).
I just put new sand in a friend's filter yesterday - also on a 24ft AGP - I turned their pump off for maybe 5 min today, turned it back on again - dirty cloud.
Puzzled - and was hoping when I do mine perhaps tomorrow it would be lovely again? 😥

Low Water level in Pump Basket

Moved from here.
On another thread that I have been not been able to figure out how to reopen, someone stated that low water level in the pump basket occurred when their filter was dirty. Similarly, can head pressure on the outflow side of the pump cause the water level in the pump basket to drop? I bought the incorrect solar panels which is restricting my flow volume until I can modify the system. When I run the pool water through them, the water level in the basket drops. I am afraid that the added pressure and/or the lower amount of water running through the pump will cause the new variable speed pump to burn up. If I am running the pump on high and engage the solar panels my PSI goes up about 10 to 15 PSI. It took herculean effort to put up the panels on my 12/12 pitched roof and I am not using them until I can increase the flow rate.

Replacing the corner rails on an Intex Ultra 16x32

My name's Gary and I am an Intex Pool Owner... Live in Keaau, Hawii (Big Island, lots of rain).
We bought a new Intex Ultra 32x16, 2 years old, still in the box, set it up properly and it has been running fine for 2 years now. But the corner rails are seriously rusting. What I would like to know is if there is a way to replace the corners (and maybe a side rail or two) WITHOUT DRAINING THE POOL. We live on catchment systems here (rainwater), and if we want to drain the pool we have to pay to have water hauled in or wait for it to fall from the sky.
That's all I got for now.