Pentair Intelliph

Basic Operation

Pentair IntellipH

The IntellipH dispenses a set amount of acid every 60 minutes while the filter pump is running. It does not measure the pH or determine how much acid is needed. Over time the user is expected to dial in the required amount of acid required hourly.

If wired correctly, the ipH can't pump while the filter pump is off, just as the IC40 can't produce. And the ipH doesn't dispense while the IC40 is producing, the ipH controller turns off the IC40 just before it dispenses.

The ipH controller monitors the IC40 flow switch, and won't dispense without flow (or isn't supposed to).

When acid is dispensed the ipH controller stops the IntelliChlor ICXX chlorine generation during the time of the IntellipH acid dispensing. The cell output is set to 0 with no LEDs lit and the Cell Status LED is off.

Checking the tank contents should be a daily chore, along with spot checking the filter gauge, the leaf baskets, the water level, etc. The problem with automation is that it will eventually fail, so you need to treat every day as the day it might happen.

The IntellipH Controller requires the IntelliChlor Power Center and ICXX cell be used with it. There are several reasons Pentair made the IntellipH dependent on an IntelliChlor:

• They use the same power supply
• That power supply is supposed to be wired to only run when the main pump is running
• The IpH monitors the IC's flow switch so that it won't pump acid unless there is actually flow past its injector, independent of the pump getting power or not
• The IpH monitors the IC's temperature sensor so that it won't pump acid unless the water is warm enough
• And the IpH disengages the IC while it's pumping acid so that you don't get high concentrations of acid and chlorine in the plumbing at the same time (which can be quite dangerous).

That all provides safeguards to not allow the acid pump to inject acid if the pump is not running, or if there is no water flow for other reasons. If the IntellipH tank and pump are used with a different controller these safeguards should be implemented.

IntellipH Spa Mode

The IntellipH will go into SPA mode anytime the ICXX cell is set to less than 5% output.

To take the IntellppH out of SPA mode raise the ICXX generation percentage to 5% or more.

IntellipH Communication with IntelliChlor Cell

THe IntellipH, IntelliChlor and EasyTouch or IntelliCenter use the RS-485 data comm lines to communicate. RS485 is not necessarily a link. There is no negotiation between the master and slave devices on the bus.

There is a relay in the IntellipH that switches the yellow/green comm wires. When IPh is dosing it will respond to EasyTouch requests as a dummy cell and send requests for 0% production to the cell. Then when it completes it simply switches back to allowing EasyTouch messages to make it to the cell.

If there isn't a response from the cell that there is a COMM LINK ERROR. The automation system simply keeps track of whether the cell responds ok to the command that disables the control panel. When dosing IPh, responds to EasyTouch and when it is not dosing, the IntelliChlor cell is supposed to respond. If that request never makes it to the cell, there will be no response and a COMM LINK ERROR will show up.

You can try to change the settings at the IntelliChlor cell if it is in this Comm Link error state. This will tell you if the IntelliChlor is still receiving messages from EasyTouch or IPh to disable the control panel. If any of the buttons respond on the cell it is not getting messages from one of those two. If you can make any changes on the cell, then the requests are not getting through from either one. NOTE: This takes 30 seconds or so for the cell to give up the panel lock depending on where it hits the polling cycle.

IntellipH with IntelliChlor IC60 cell

A members board on his IntelliPH fried for the second time in about a year. The warranty service company told him that Pentair says the IC60 pulls too much current for the IntelliPH and Pentair wants to swap out the IC60 for an IC40.

If you are planning on this equipment combination you should check with Pentair on their latest thinking.

Two Different Peristaltic Pumps

522474 Pump

I have determined that the replacement peristaltic pump is indeed the old circa 2014 Shurflo pump. I made the request to Pentair to get me the new correct Stenner pump. I think the reason I ended up with the old one circa 2014 is because there is not a part number for the entire Stenner motor and pump head, but there is for the circa 2014.

There are two types of tank mounted pumps:

• black and white square pump 521348Z (old part, cheap) ShurFlo pump
• blue cover semi-round pump 522474 (new pump) Stenner pump

Maintenance & Repair

The old pump had to be entirely replaced, the new blue pump can be repaired and you're expected to change out the white tube every year.

You can order the super expensive Pentair parts for replacement but it's a standard Stenner econ pump head that Pentair customized for their needs, so you can just order Stenner econ replacement parts for not just the white roller tube but the rollers as well as they are the exact same part just a fraction of the price.

Also, Pentair only sells you the tube two pack or a rebuild kit with one tube and the rollers for about $80. You can buy the Stenner econ pump head roller alone (EC350, make sure you get the "white" version instead of the "black" version) for a fraction of the price ($15).

Capacity of the Pentair 4 Gallon Acid Container

The TOTAL capacity of the Pentair Acid Container (521378) or (522472) is 4 Gallons (15.1 Liters). Adding 4 gallons to an empty container will bring the level of liquid in the container to the very middle of the protective grid or to the bottom of the container top mounting lip.

​However, of these total 4 gallons. there is 10 ounces (295.7 mL) of liquid at the bottom of the canister that is unusable. This is due to the fact that the suction tube and plastic filter screen do NOT quite go all the way down to the bottom of the container. Hence the “usable” amount of liquid in the canister is 3 Gallons, 6 fluid ounces (3.375 gallons) or 11.8 Liters.​

By way of these measurements, it was also determined that the vertical sticker that is placed on the side of the container is inaccurate in its representation of actual liquid increments within the container.​

On pp 1 of the IntellipH Acid Dispenser System Installation and Users Guide, it refers to the “Storage Canister” as “3-1/2 Gallons.” This stated value in the users guide is off by only 2 ounces but I’m just stating the fact that in typical Pentair fashion, information found in Pentair documentation is NOT always accurate and in many cases, incomplete as well.​

Note: we assume that the same numbers defined above also apply to the Pentair 4-Gallon Chlorine Container (521397.) The only difference that could be found between those two part numbers (tank only), or between the two part numbers with a mounted pump (522472 vs 522473), is the fact that the color coded stickers placed on top of the lids are different.

Pentair IntellipH Annual Maintenance

There are several things you can do, and should do (in terms of annual maintenance).

You need to change the tube in the pump regularly. I think Pentair recommends annually, you might be able to skip a year, but I wouldn't go any more than that. If it has turned brown, or is in any way stiff, it's done. While you might get acid out of the tube while it's disconnected from the injector, that doesn't necessarily mean there is a strong enough pump action to overcome the injector and the pressure in the pool plumbing.

There are parts in the injector that might be getting clogged up. It's possible to disassemble it, but it might not go back together all that well. Mine didn't. And while there are replaceable parts inside the injector, I doubt you'd be able to find them anywhere. Pentair doesn't sell them. Just replace the injector, they're available on Amazon or from Pentair. If that doesn't solve your problem, it's not money wasted, because if you don't need a new one now, you will eventually. Keeping an extra "in stock" is prudent. I replaced mine and bought two, so I have a spare. Given today's supply chain issues, and ever rising costs, buying an extra is just good planning.

While looking at the IpH from the side the pump is on, there are two fittings coming out of the tank. The one on the left feeds the pump, the other one is a vent. Did you connect that to anything?

If not, you should. Here's why - The acid tank is supposed to be air tight. So as acid is drawn from the tank, you need air to be able to enter the tank to displace the acid leaving it. Same goes for temperature changes throughout the day and night: as the air in the tank heats and cools, the tank needs to breathe. And that air coming and going is provided by the vent. The problem with that is, as the tank expels air, it's also expelling acid fumes, and those fumes can chew up any metal in the vicinity of the tank. The corrosion often seen on those screws is likely from acid fumes. But they won't stop there, those fumes can and will attack any other metal nearby, even stainless steel, like your other pool gear or your window frames or fence hardware, etc.

The solution is two-fold:

• Check the large o-ring of the IpH tank lid. Be sure it had no nicks or cracks, and give it a good coating of o-ring lube (the same stuff you use on your pump's lid o-ring or your cartridge filter's o-ring if you have one of those.
• Then get yourself some 1/4" acid-resistant tubing (that should have come with the IpH). You can use the same tubing the IpH provided to attach the IpH pump to the injector, if there is any left, or grab some from on-line or at a big-box store. Then you connect that tube to the IpH vent, and run it as far away from the IpH, your pad, and any other metal, as you can get. Try to slope it down from the IpH, and then turn the end of it down, too. It'll still pass air, but the idea is to allow any condensation to be able to drain out, and pointing the end down will keep it from filling with sprinkler water or rain.

Lastly, Pentair recommends diluting the acid in the tank. You can cut 31% acid in half, adding 1-to-1 water and acid. Or you can just buy the 14% acid. That helps minimize the corrosion and helps with the longevity of all the parts susceptible to acid. If you're running 31% acid in the tank, that's asking for trouble.

Plus, if your IpH goes haywire and pumps the entire contents of the tank into your pool, a diluted mixture won't cause as much havoc to your pool or swimmers, so it's an additional safeguard not to use full strength acid in the tank.

Pentair IntellipH Parts

IntelliPh parts you may need during maintenance are:

• Pentair Injection Check Valve 522513Z
• Pentair Pump Head Tube Repl, Pent IntellipH,Stennenr Blue Pump, 2 Pk | 522480
• Pentair Intelliph Pump Repair Kit, 522386 if you need the wheel and tubes
• Pentair 522384 Tubing for IntellipH Controllers Chemical Injection

Stick to Pentair parts for the injector and pump components (shop for best price), though there may be third party stuff if you want to roll the dice and save some money. The 1/4" acid tube doesn't need to be Pentair, you should be able to find that much cheaper. Just be sure its made of a material that can withstand Muriatic acid.

There are a few models of IntellipH pumps floating around. If you have a newer IpH, the above parts are probably the right ones. But be sure to deal with a supplier that will accept returns should you order the wrong part.

Problems

Intelliph Emptied Entire Tank of Acid

The warranty company for Pentair came out and they replaced the entire peristaltic pump on my Intelliph with a different pump. Now the peristaltic pump says Shurflow and it has 4 screws not a lever to replace the surgical tubing and/or the wheel. The Shurflow wheel appears to have only two rollers not three like the original.

It sounds like they put the older pump head on. The newer one is a Stenner style, the Shurflo was the original.

Intellichlor ICXX Not Running

There was an issue where the ICs were having trouble running when connected to the intelliph. It seems these issues haven't been completely resolved.

The IntelliChlor IC40 or IC60 cell can draw too much power through the IpH and burn out a connector. This thread describes a fix to the burnt connector.

Power Supply Connector Burnt Pin

A member had the connector from the power supply to the IntelliPh circuit board overheat and melt. He had this occur not only on the original unit but a replacement (complete new unit). He also replaced 1 control unit separately. The overheated pin in the plug occurs on the black wire only.

He replaced the connector with one from TE.com, part # for the plug is 770759-1 (08P MINI UMNL PLUD HSG). The pin socket part # is 1-794407-0 ( MINI UMNL SOK 20-16 AWG AU LF). They also show the connector for the circuit board, however he did not need that as he had purchased a new board. He also got a crimper from Amazon (Dupont Crimping Tool Qibaok Pin Ratcheting Crimper).

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

As IntellipH (IpH) owners know, the IpH depends on an IntellliChlor (IC). The IpH uses the IC's power supply, and monitors its flow switch, so that it won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting low flow. Unfortunately, it also monitors the IC's water temperature reading, and won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting cold water. A fix for that is described in Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water.

Servicing an IntellipH Injector

Short version: ya don't! You just replace it periodically.

Periodically perform a very simple, non-invasive test of the injector. Maybe a few times a year. Unscrew the white nut that clamps the acid delivery tube to the injector body and pull the tube out. Then turn on the filter pump (relatively high RPM) and observe. If no pool water drips out of the top of the injector, then the seals are fine. If you see water, time for a new injector.

Test your IpH injector once in a while, as described above, and replace as necessary.

See the thread for the full discussion --> Servicing an IntellipH Injector

Tips

Adding a full jug of Acid to the IntellipH Canister

Take a utility knife to the pad with you and unscrew the cap to the jug. Leave the seal on the jug and invert it into the canister. Then bump the top of the jug and it will break the seal. Then take that utility knife and poke a hole in the top. About 5 seconds later you can pull the empty jug from the canister.

Dilute 31% acid 1:1 with water

Which means there's never more than about 1.5 gallons of acid in the tank at any given point. Not enough to be much of a concern should the system malfunction.

Muriatic acid and water mix well, and the mixture is almost complete by the time you close the bottle up. HCl has an enormous solubility in water and, unlike sulfuric acid, is not very viscous so it mixes very well. If you add your jug of water to the IpH (yes, add that first) and then your jug of acid to the IpH, you can stick a plastic rod into it, give it three turns of your hand and then close up the holding tank. By the time you clean up all your tools and take a sip of beer, the solution is mixed.