When I opened my pool it was green. I added shock and Algea Break 90 (which has always worked great for me). The water became clear and looks great. I accidently put too much DE in the system. White powder appeared on the bottom of my pool. I assumed it was DE. I've vacuumed several times, back washed the system, but I'm still getting the white power on the bottom. It is getting less with each vacuum, but I thought it would disappear after I back washed and added the proper amount of DE. Any suggestions?
White powder in pool
- Thread starter jcdifi26
- Start date
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
The best suggestion is to stop "shocking and adding Algae anything" into your pool, no need for any of those... Just good old liquid chlorine does a much better job..
What you are probably seeing is the dead algae on the bottom of the pool as your killing it SLAM Process
What you are probably seeing is the dead algae on the bottom of the pool as your killing it SLAM Process
JodieM
Silver Supporter
- Jul 18, 2013
- 527
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Truclear / Ei
Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me how to do that with my hayward pump?
JodieM
Silver Supporter
- Jul 18, 2013
- 527
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Truclear / Ei
I have a sand filter with a multi-port valve so for me I just set the valve to waste, with my vacuum line in the skimmer box it pulls the water from the hose and discharges it to the ground bypassing the filter. I don’t have experience with other types of filters, but found this article that might help with your setup.
Vacuuming to Waste: A How-To
Vacuuming to Waste: A How-To. How (and why and when) to use your filter system to Vacuum to Waste. This is done when vacuuming algae, or silty dirt or mud.
blog.intheswim.com
- May 3, 2014
- 58,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The OP has an above ground pool pump/filter combo that does not have a MPV. So they cannot pump to waste.
With a DE filter, any material in the pool will be caught by the filter when it gets to it. Unless the filter elements are compromised.
With a DE filter, any material in the pool will be caught by the filter when it gets to it. Unless the filter elements are compromised.
Thank you. Correct, I can not pump to waste. How can I tell if my elements are compromised? When I last checked, the "fingers" inside the filter looked fine.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
As stated above, you have algae. You have not said if you can properly test the pool water chemistry.
Does the material in the pool brush like dirt or poof away? Have you vacuumed it to the filter?
Does the material in the pool brush like dirt or poof away? Have you vacuumed it to the filter?
I have vacuumed to the filter several times. The debris is getting less and less. My chlorine levels and alkaline levels are all within normal limits
- May 3, 2014
- 58,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Then perhaps your numbers are not as perfect as you claim them to be? If you'd post those numbers up as well as the kit used to get them we might be able to find what is amiss.
Just tested. Using a Taylor pool kit. Total Chlorine - 0. PH - 7.3, Alkaline - 70. Will add some liquid chlorine and some baking soda, and vacuume again. I'll see what happens, but, not confident that all the white stuff will disappear.
In no situation is 0 TC "within normal limits", so I'm confused as to why you said that.
Why are you planning to add baking soda?
You're probably correct that dumping chlorine in won't fix the problem. That's why we don't blindly dump in chemicals hoping they will work. Odds are that performing the SLAM Process will correct the issue, but it will require having a recommended test kit such as the k-2006 or TF-100 ( Test Kits Compared ) to test your CYA level and adequately test your FC and CC levels. Bottom line is that blindly dumping chlorine and copper in to your water might seem to work occasionally, but it is not a long-term pool care solution. Not to mention the issues that come with copper, but I digress.
Thanks for your help. I have a TF-100 test kit. I joined this site a few years ago when I got my pool. I started to use the TFP methods but was not very diligent. I fell a little bit into the pool supply store trap, because it seemed easier. I need to get back on track. I've started to watch videos from TFP. I will post my latest results here today. If I remember correctly my CYA was always high and I couldn't get it down. It probably still is, I'll let you know.
Ok, here's my latest results. FC =4, pH 7.2, TA 70, CYA 100. I downloaded the Pool Math app and I'm using it to keep track of my tests. I'm using Clorox (7.17% chlorine). Is that ok? I've also added a picture of the pool to show you what the bottom looks like. I'm currently running my pump 8 hrs a day.
Attachments
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
That is dead algae on the bottom of the pool...
With a CYA of 100 did you do an extended test... use 1 cup tap water and 1 cup pool water, mix and do the CYA test again using this mix... double the result to see what the CYA level is...
With a CYA of 100 did you do an extended test... use 1 cup tap water and 1 cup pool water, mix and do the CYA test again using this mix... double the result to see what the CYA level is...
Thanks. Results were actually worse. Lost the black dot around 70 so I'm looking at 140. Also, should I turn on my pump and brush the algea so it can be removed by the filter?