What is BBB

[Fresno59]

Moved from old thread. Marty - Moderator

What is the BBB method? Acronyms assume that everyone shares your specialized knowledge. Please provide an explanation or a link to one.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

We now use TFPC, Trouble Free Pool Care, instead of BBB since it more accurately describes the process since most pools don't need borax or baking soda. Typically chlorine and muriatic acid are the most needed chemical additions.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

 

[Richard320]

Moved from old thread. Marty - Moderator

What is the BBB method? Acronyms assume that everyone shares your specialized knowledge. Please provide an explanation or a link to one.

It stands for Bleach, Borax, and Baking Soda. Bleach is a chlorine source with none of the unwanted additives. Baling Soda is identical in every way to Alkalinity Increaser sold for four or five times a s much at a pool store, and Borax raises pH without raising alkalinity much. It was a catchy acronym. Problem was, people concentrated on the chemicals and not on the testing and would stockpile huge amounts of the stuff or dump huge amounts in the pool and then get on and complain that the pool was still green. So that acronym has been dropped. You'll still see reference to it in old posts.

As a fellow Californian, I can tell you it's unlikely you'll ever need to add baking soda or borax. Our water is hard.

 

[Fresno59]

Thanks for the good explanation

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Fresno, I'm curious- if you just found our website, how did you learn of "BBB" which is an archaic term for "bleach, borax, baking soda". We don't use that term anymore. We say "TFPC" method for Trouble Free Pool Care method. <rock on!>

More importantly, you say you've been fighting algae for years- how are you testing your water? Or are you just letting the pool store sell you stuff and it isn't helping?

We *can* help you! Foremost to our madness is that owners need to test their water with a full test kit. We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

And the FC test must go up to 50ppm as some algae ridden pools *will* need FC over the 5ppm most simple tests do.

You can see our approved test kits at : TFTestkits.net

Holler back with any questions we can help you with.

Maddie

 

[Fresno59]

Fresno, I'm curious- if you just found our website, how did you learn of "BBB" which is an archaic term for "bleach, borax, baking soda". We don't use that term anymore. We say "TFPC" method for Trouble Free Pool Care method.

More importantly, you say you've been fighting algae for years- how are you testing your water? Or are you just letting the pool store sell you stuff and it isn't helping?

We *can* help you! Foremost to our madness is that owners need to test their water with a full test kit. We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

And the FC test must go up to 50ppm as some algae ridden pools *will* need FC over the 5ppm most simple tests do.

You can see our approved test kits at : TFTestkits.net

Holler back with any questions we can help you with.

Maddie

Hi and thanks again for the help. I use a standard test kit (5 dropper bottles) for my regular tests, and when i suspect something's wrong, i take a water sample in for a more thorough test for free at one of the pool supply companies.

Yesterday, i took a sample in and the results are:

FC: 0

CC: 0

pH: 7.0

TA: 110

CH: 200

CYA: 80

I told the pool guy about how badly my pool is covered in algae. He said (like everyone else I've heard) to brush, brush, brush. But he also said only brush while shocking the pool or you make it worse (which i heard for the first time). I figure this is how the pool got in the state that it's in right now.

Based on the low pH level, the pool guy recommended adding 3 lb of soda ash with the pump running to raise the pH. And he said I need to get the pH in balance before I do anything else because adding chlorine would just be wasted.

The day prior to this I had added chlorine and shock to the pool so I believed him, but when he told me this I called home and had a family member add a gallon of chlorine and a pound of shock just to get the process started and so there would be "some" chlorine available.

I bought some baking soda from Walmart to raise the pH level because I had read that you could use it and it was cheap. Apparently that information is incorrect because I've now added 12 lbs to no effect. It seems that sodium bicarbonate is not an effective replacement for sodium carbonate, so now I need to go back and buy the right stuff.

This morning my FC is still zero but my CC looks like 1. 5, and my pH still looks the same. I added the last of the sodium bicarbonate and a couple of pounds of shock and a gallon of chlorine, and I'm going to go get a bag of soda ash to add.

The man at the pool store did have a good suggestion. Maybe you can tell me if this is right or not.

His suggestion was that since my pool is so completely covered in Black algae it might be better to drain the pool and chlorine wash it.

He suggested these steps:

1. Drain the pool.
2. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with one gallon of chlorine and the rest water
3. Use a big brush to scrub the entire surface with this solution.
4. Refill the pool

It sounds like a good idea, but I think I would also pressure wash the sides before I refill the pool. That should help get rid of some of the loose plaster that is coming off in droves anyway.

What do you think?

 

[pabeader]

Hi and thanks again for the help. I use a standard test kit (5 dropper bottles) for my regular tests, and when i suspect something's wrong, i take a water sample in for a more thorough test for free at one of the pool supply companies.

Yesterday, i took a sample in and the results are:

FC: 0

CC: 0

pH: 7.0

TA: 110

CH: 200

CYA: 80

I told the pool guy about how badly my pool is covered in algae. He said (like everyone else I've heard) to brush, brush, brush. But he also said only brush while shocking the pool or you make it worse (which i heard for the first time). I figure this is how the pool got in the state that it's in right now.

Based on the low pH level, the pool guy recommended adding 3 lb of soda ash with the pump running to raise the pH. And he said I need to get the pH in balance before I do anything else because adding chlorine would just be wasted.

The day prior to this I had added chlorine and shock to the pool so I believed him, but when he told me this I called home and had a family member add a gallon of chlorine and a pound of shock just to get the process started and so there would be "some" chlorine available.

I bought some baking soda from Walmart to raise the pH level because I had read that you could use it and it was cheap. Apparently that information is incorrect because I've now added 12 lbs to no effect. It seems that sodium bicarbonate is not an effective replacement for sodium carbonate, so now I need to go back and buy the right stuff.

This morning my FC is still zero but my CC looks like 1. 5, and my pH still looks the same. I added the last of the sodium bicarbonate and a couple of pounds of shock and a gallon of chlorine, and I'm going to go get a bag of soda ash to add.

The man at the pool store did have a good suggestion. Maybe you can tell me if this is right or not.

His suggestion was that since my pool is so completely covered in Black algae it might be better to drain the pool and chlorine wash it.

He suggested these steps:

1. Drain the pool.
2. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with one gallon of chlorine and the rest water
3. Use a big brush to scrub the entire surface with this solution.
4. Refill the pool

It sounds like a good idea, but I think I would also pressure wash the sides before I refill the pool. That should help get rid of some of the loose plaster that is coming off in droves anyway.

What do you think?

It's your pool but I have some questions for you. Have you been fighting algae for 5 years? Have you been using advice from a pool $tore? Has your pool been crystal clear at any time? Why would you continue to seek and follow their advice?

Get a good test kit, like a TF-100 or a K-2006C and stop going to the pool $tore for advice.

All you need to fix a swamp is liquid chlorine, proper testing and time. This is known as SLAMming a pool and it is discussed in detail here :Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

 

[Fresno59]

It's your pool but I have some questions for you. Have you been fighting algae for 5 years? Have you been using advice from a pool $tore? Has your pool been crystal clear at any time? Why would you continue to seek and follow their advice?

Get a good test kit, like a TF-100 or a K-2006C and stop going to the pool $tore for advice.

All you need to fix a swamp is liquid chlorine, proper testing and time. This is known as SLAMming a pool and it is discussed in detail here :Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Thanks. I just read the SLAM article, and I'd rather try that than empty my pool.

That chart referred to in the article indicates that my fc should go to 31. What's the best way to get it there considering that it's currently 0?

 

[ajw22]

Thanks. I just read the SLAM article, and I'd rather try that than empty my pool.

That chart referred to in the article indicates that my fc should go to 31. What's the best way to get it there considering that it's currently 0?

Use PoolMath to determine how much bleach you need.

Stock up on bleach to last you through the SLAM Process. Your pool will eat bleach initially.

 

[pabeader]

Is that CYA measurement from your kit or a pool $tore?

 

[JimMarshall]

Thanks. I just read the SLAM article, and I'd rather try that than empty my pool.

That chart referred to in the article indicates that my fc should go to 31. What's the best way to get it there considering that it's currently 0?

You would use PoolMath. Input your pool volume at the top, your current FC value and your target of 31, the liquid chlorine strength you are going to use, and it will tell you how much to add. Do you have an appropriate test kit? You will need a FAS-DPD Chlorine test to measure chlorine that high. I recommend purchasing a TF-100 test kit (you’ll need the XL option if you’re fighting algae)

The most important part about a SLAM Process is to test and re-add your chlorine to get back to SLAM level as often as possible, as much as every half hour in the beginning of you can. The more you keep the FC up, the quicker the process will go.

 

[Fresno59]

Is that CYA measurement from your kit or a pool $tore?

Store


I'm headed in to get my own kit right now

 

[Wulfdan]

You need to SLAM your pool
To properly SLAM you need either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFT100 test kit. You need the FAS-DPD chlorine test to accurately measure up to 50ppm chlorine

We also don’t trust pool store measurements here. You need to get the kit and test the water yourself. Post the results here and we can provide you with next steps.

for now test everything you can test with your current kit and post here. If the pH really is 7.0 then leave it alone for now, you are going to be adding a LOT of bleach.

Don’t add anymore solid chlorine product to your pool. This includes pucks, and any form of powdered “shock” product. You want bleach. Lots of plain, unscented bleach. Do not use chlorox. The “Chloromax” technology they use will foam up your water.

if the CYA number is correct you may need to drain and replace some water but we need accurate numbers.

 

[mknauss]

Store


I'm headed in to get my own kit right now

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

A proper test kit cannot be found at a pool store. Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

Hopefully you have not added the Soda Ash. Based on the tests you showed your pH is fine and your TA is high. Soda ash will raise pH and dramatically raise TA. DO NOT add soda ash!

 

[jblizzle]

Like Marty said, make sure you buy the correct FAS-DPD test kit.
It is very rare to find them in a pool store, but there are the occasional unicorns.
Do NOT let the pool store employee convince you that you do not need the FAS-DPD or that the DPD test kit is the same.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

When I looked at your test results (pool store, sigh) and your comment about adding a gallon of liquid chlorine and more granular product, I wondered if you realize that chlorine is a consumable product.

It must be added each and every day in the proper amount for clear, clean pools. Your pool with algae will just chew up any chlorine you add at low levels and keep on reproducing more little baby algaes while you think you're good. You *have* to add chlorine at a high enough level (based on your CYA level) to stun the little green monster into submission and then keep at it until it is all dead and gone. You haven't been doing this, I take?

And please don't waste your time looking for one of the appropriate test kits locally. You won't find it and anything else you buy is a waste of money. Get online and get either the K-2006C or the TF-100XL from TFTestkits.net A few folks bought the K2006C from Amazon and it had older reagents in it. Ugh. It pays to pay attention to where you shop for it.

Let us know when you obtain the kit, and we'll happily help you slay the green beast.

Got a picture to share? We do love our pics and it will provide us with a good visual starting point.

Maddie

 

[Fresno59]

I took the one before I started, it's not the best photo but you can see how dark the water is. the sides of the pool in the bottom of the pool were completely covered in Black algae.

the second photo is where it's at now after I've been working on it again for a few days. And have a ton of chlorine in there right now.

You guys are right about not being able to find that test kit anywhere. And I didn't see your comments until after I had started working on the pool. I'm going to have to order that test kit, but I've already started working on it now, so I'll be running blind in the high chlorine readings.

I did test myself using my own kit and started adding soda ash based upon what I saw as actual test measurements. I brought the ph up to 7.6 and checked it after 4 hours to make sure it was stable.

Since I didn't see the post about using liquid chlorine, I added 6 lb granular 73% calcium hypochlorite at sundown, and later in the evening I added a couple more pounds when I tested the chlorine and saw that it had dropped to 1. Early this morning I tested again and the chlorine was at 2 so I added 5 more pounds of hypochlorite. I wish that I had seen the post about liquid chlorine before then. I did test pH this morning, and did find that i had to add chlorine neutralizer to get an accurate reading. It was still 7.6. I'll have to get more liquid chlorine to continue the battle.

Finally, I suggest to the moderator that we change the title of this thread to something like, "Fighting stubborn black algae"

 

[mknauss]

If your CH is really 200 ppm, the Cal Hypo will not be an issue.

When you get a proper test kit be sure to test your fill water.

Be aware when using Soda Ash you are driving your TA up very high. It is best to use Borax to raise pH, if necessary. If pH is just low, say upper 6's, then aeration will raise your pH without chemical.

 

[Fresno59]

If pH is just low, say upper 6's, then aeration will raise your pH without chemical.

I never heard this before, how would I accomplish this?


EDIT: I found an example here https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=170735&share_fid=4767&share_type=t

 

[mknauss]

Point the eyeball returns to the surface of the water, add a temporary fountain to a return, swim (though not in the current state of clarity with your pool!), etc.