Wet Edge Satin Matrix start up

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#81
The Burkett’s Start Up instructions state to add chlorine and CYA today, Day 5. Wet Edge’s Start Up instructions state to add chlorine Day 7. Which do you think I should follow? I’m not sure if I should or want to wait 2 more days to add chlorine.
5 vs. 7 days ... I don't think it makes a big difference.

Add the CYA slowly by the sock method. Don't put it in the skimmer and don't let it get on the pool floor. Target CYA of 30.

I would go easy on the CL and get it to between 1-2PPM the first day and bring in up by 1PPM a day until you get to 3 PPM.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#82
Day 5 @ 1230
pH 7.5

Good plan Allen to ease into it.

I have done the sock method, but I put my sock in the skimmer as I’ve done in years past. That’s what you are referring to, correct?

Will rinse filters and then start on the chlorine and CYA.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#83
I have done the sock method, but I put my sock in the skimmer as I’ve done in years past. That’s what you are referring to, correct?
Sock in skimmer can work as long as sock does not get sucked in and block skimmer. I dangle sock in front of a return.

IMG_1302 (Small).JPG
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#84
I like that technique too Allen. Previously, I was just following what Pool School recommended. My dock to skimmer method can’t get sucked in my pump or restrict flow as I have my basket plus diverter/UFO beneath that.

With your technique, if it ends up touching the wall, couldn’t that be adverse and cause problems?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#85
With your technique, if it end up touching the wall, couldn’t that be adverse and cause problems?
I use a thick athletic sock. It seems between the sock fabric and the return water flow activity around the area I have not seen any issues. Just keep an eye on the pool below the sock and if you see any CYA leaking out fo the sock then brush it around and don't let it sit on the floor.

I go out to the pool every hour or two while adding CYA to check on it and wave the sock around in the water and squeeze it a few times. It seems like the CYA dissolves in the sock and waving it around in the water and squeezing it is what releases most of it.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#87
I rinsed out my cartridges yesterday. Was surprised to find so many pebbles/plaster, but that's too be expected. Guess the Zodiac Barracuda that I am borrowing did vacuum up quite a bit of stuff. Forgot to mention that in the evening of Day 4 when the Zodiac was at work, my pump was on at 2000 RPM for adequate flow and for the Zodiac as well, I was brushing at the same time. Hooking up the Zodiac, the water level in the pump basket is always a little lower. However, perhaps with my vigorous brushing and this higher RPM setting for the Zodiac (when I was trying it out end of Oct. I found that 1660 RPM was adequate enough for water flow and the Zodiac to perform), I later went out that evening about 1.5 hr later to check on the pool, I heard this loud squealing from the pump area. Well, apparently it was running dry. No good. Long story short, I now have a replacement shaft seal and some O-rings coming from INYO pools. This was out of the ordinary, but now on my agenda to replace the shaft seal. Anyway, pump is running but louder.

Yesterday at approx 1600 I added 49 oz (by volume per Pool Math) split b/w the 2 cut pieces of stocking material (wife was happy to clean out 1 item from her clothes) and placed it in the skimmer. The stocking material worked very well in the skimmer to allow it to dissolve well. Pump is running at 1500 RPM.

Also, last evening at 1900 added 20 oz chlorine to bring to 1 ppm.

Today, Day 6 at 1015:
FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 7.3-7.4
TA: 80
CH: 200
CYA: not testing until about 1 week or so out
h2o temp: 54

Added 30 oz CYA (the rest of the 79 oz) split b/w two pieces of stocking into the skimmer. Goal to bring to CYA to 30. Added 40 oz chlorine to bring to 2. Brushed.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#88
Side note. Met w/ the plaster/Wet Edge finish supervisor yesterday AM. Showed him a diveted/concave area to left of the bottom step where the step transitions to the side wall, and the bare plaster area at the tile line in the deep end. Conclusion was that he would send out his tech who does the Primera Stone polishing to address these 2 areas.

Back to the pump performance/flow rate post cartridge rinsing. Don't really notice that much difference. Flow rate is very similar. Perhaps 1 GPM higher per my Flow Vis when I check the flow at different RPMs. Still getting some bubbles coming from the return near the skimmer. After thinking more about it, I realize the filter pressure psi will register lower b/c the return eyeballs I have are a larger diameter.. Hence, the wider "vessel" will allow the same flow but at a lower pressure (I relate it to blood pressure/vessels d/t being in healthcare). However, with this one return, I do notice more bubbles at various RPMs vs. previously.

I investigated further and listened for any water flow coming from down from the solar. At 1100 RPMs, I heard some water flow return from the solar. Thus, I suspect that these bubbles are a result of some water getting diverted by Pentair Compool valve actuator cva-24t. The solar is operating fine and heating well, I just believe that perhaps it is not fully closed and when my pump primes at 3000 RPMs or runs at a higher RPM, some water is still sent to the solar. I believe this would also account for bubbling at some returns, besides the typical reasons for a suction side air leak. At my pump, I see no bubbles under my pump lid. So, I really don't believe now it is a suction side leak vs. this actuator.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#89
Day 6 at 1500
FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 90
CH: 200
CYA: not testing until about 1 week or so out
h2o temp: 54

I don't understand how FC can be 0. I added 40 oz chlor this AM, and 20 oz last night. Nothing is in matter as new surface. I assumed with such cold water, balancing FC on a new surface would not be a problem. After this test, I added 40 oz chlor to bring to a level of 2. CYA is actively dissolving in my stocking in skimmer. I brushed half the pool again and tested thereafter. Tested sooner than 0.5 hr, but the water is definitely agitated to mix the chlor.

At 1545:
FC 0.5

Prepared to add another 40 oz chlor, but figured I'd check in here. Anyone have any insight on what is going on with the chlorine and where to go from here?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#90
What brand liquid chlorine are you using? What % CL? What is the date code on the bottles? Where did you get it from and how has it been stored?
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#91
HASA 12.5% chlorine. Not sure date code on these. When I use to buy 10% years ago from HD or Lowes, I knew how to check on those, but since these are bought at my local pool store (independent shop; not Leslie's) they are bought by the case of 4 gal. The guy up there said they get shipments weekly in the summer. I am on my last gal in this case. Have had it since probably Oct. I think.

I am sure the strength is good b/c when I dose my spa with my weekly shock amount, the sanitation level stays up for a week. I keep a bromine spa and activate the bromide to bromine with weekly chlorine shocks.

Anyhow, I'll try 50 oz chlorine right now and see where that takes me in the morning. My thoughts are that the chlorine level is not staying up b/c the water is not saturated with my 79 oz CYA to bring it up to 30. Could that be the reason? The two stocking pieces in the skimmer are almost fully dissolved. After that, the full 79 oz will have been added. Still running the pump 24/7 to continue to circulate water flow over the stocking pieces and to keep any CYA in the filter/cartridges mixing.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
35,973
Tallahassee, FL
#92
You have a solid plan. The sun may be eating the FC even with the the lower temps. Can't wait to see what happens when the CYA gets mixed in good! Hoping it settles things down some.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#93
Leftover gal of my 12.5% chlorine is almost gone. Since pool store was closed and can’t get up there for couple days, went out to Costco to get a 3 pack of Clorox.

Allen, there could be some validity to the fact that whatever amount of chlorine I had could have degraded. At least having the Clorox on hand will cover me till I could get up to the pool store.

The chlorine, I overlooked that part of the prep plan.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#94
So I just had to check FC again cause I’m fixated on this:
At 2100
FC 0.5

Again, at ~1745, I added 50 oz chlorine. Should I add some of that Clorox 6.05% I got to bring it to either FC 1 or 2, or let it go another day?
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#95
Boom. It just came to me. It has got to be the metal sequestrant that Burkett’s added for their complimentary start up. It’s got to be.

In the months leading up to this, I was reading many threads here at TFP about metal sequestrants and their affects on pool chemistry. People were posting that it has an adverse effect on free chlorine. It’s got to be that. Hopefully the sequestrant gets used up because this is annoying.

If this is indeed the case, I have no idea how to factor this into Pool Math so I could know how much chlorine/bleach to add.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#96
Leftover gal of my 12.5% chlorine is almost gone. Since pool store was closed and can’t get up there for couple days, went out to Costco to get a 3 pack of Clorox.

Allen, there could be some validity to the fact that whatever amount of chlorine I had could have degraded. At least having the Clorox on hand will cover me till I could get up to the pool store.
Don’t use Clorox bleach! It probably says it has Cloromax Technology. Those are polymer additives that causes foaming in many pools. Clorox says the Cloromax Technology is not suitable for pools.

Cloromax in pool
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
#98
Day 7 @ 0450
FC 0
CC 0
pH 7.3
CH 200
TA 90

Added 27 oz borax, remaining 11 oz chlorine.

@ 1745
pH 7.8
FC 0
CYA fully dissolved

Added 12 oz MA, 58 oz chlorine to bring up to 3 ppm.

Went to the pool store on the way home from work and got the real deal - some fresh chlorine (12.5%). Let’s see if the chlorine holds until tomorrow morning.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,244
Northern NJ
#99
Why are you adding Borax? You are just chasing your PH between Borax and MA. PH of 7.3 is fine. Let the PH rise naturally. Use MA when your PH gets to 7.8 to lower it around 7.4.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
696
Livermore, CA
Thanks Allen for the reply.
Perhaps it was me wanting to tinker or feel more productive. But also, yesterday AM I was testing under artificial fluorescent light in the garage, as I did it prior to work. It was a little hard to tell if it was 7.2 or estimating 7.3. In any case, I assume both of those values are OK. Duly noted now.