Wet Edge Satin Matrix start up

madtv126

Gold Supporter
Jul 30, 2018
70
Fort Mill, SC
#41
Re: Resurfacing questions

I am not sure about the chemicals part of it my builder is handling all that and tested and balanced for me as soon as the fill was complete well actually the next morning since mine ended at 3 am.

I have been testing with my TFP test kit to double check and it looks good.

I would do what your comfortable with but with a caveat. If the builder screws something up it's on him and if you put chemicals in and screw something up it's on you... Just a thought.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#43
Re: Resurfacing questions

Thank you you guys.

When I post my house water and chem results, should I start a new thread, or can I just continue this one for everyone’s input?

I’ve been managing my pool and if not let anyone touch the water since they started the DFP method I think in 2014 or 15. Actually trust myself and all you guides at TFP a lot more than this pool contractor for the start up.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,218
Northern NJ
#44
Re: Resurfacing questions

Keep all your pools questions and tests on this thread. It lets us follow the context and background better.

I had the Mods combine the two threads you got going today.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#45
Re: Resurfacing questions

Got results of the house water and a pic of another issue I need to discuss. But, AJW22, your last post got me thinking and realizing perhaps it would be better if the Mods combine this thread with my "Wet Edge Satin Matrix Start Up," dated 10/21/18, in the "Testing and Balancing Your Water" forum. I already had a thread started in there that kind of chronicled this journey. I just figured I was supposed to start a new thread with each new subset topic.

Please let me know before I post these test results. Tx!
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#47
Re: Resurfacing questions

Here is another issue I found. I know I can't expect perfection but rather excellence, it's just that w/ the amount of $ I'm paying, and the reputation that Burkett's Pool Plastering has, I would pretty much have expected no problems/issues. If anything, through my emails with Wet Edge's front line and main customer service rep. (you could find her name at their site), I was given a vote of confidence for Burkett's as I was told they are one of the main, biggest, and best Wet Edge installers in CA.

Anyhow, after the acid wash today, and further inspecting of the plaster/Wet Edge Satin Matrix line that meets my tile, I still find areas where there is excess plaster/aggregate mix in the vertical grout lines of the tile. This is more relevant around the deep end. If anything, the attached pic is a spot in my deep end that is actually missing this plaster/aggregate mix. While it may be water under the bridge at this point, I feel like the best thing to have done was to have taken off yesterday for the plaster/aggregate install. The other days I have been around, but I could not get out of work yesterday. After the resurface job was done yesterday, the project manager came by as I asked him to while I was at work. Per my front door camera, he was here for a total of 3 min. That's an assumed 3 min. or less that he was inspecting the resurface work. To me, that is pretty pathetic.

So, based on what I discussed earlier today re: the removal of my 2 rope hooks and the patch jobs, wouldn't that be the same thing for this spot you see in the photo? What do people do if there are things like this? Catch it at the time of plaster/aggregate install and have them do it over? I mean the only thing that seems like can be done after the fact is for Burkett's to mix up some more plaster/aggregate and do any patch jobs. But, per the majority of TFPer's who chimed in, even with a white based plaster, there is a big chance that any patch job could still be visible. I brought this up to the project manager when I text him today to call off the patch over of the rope hooks. He tried to assure me that patch jobs done in white plaster would not be visible. I could see him trying to say that same thing if a patch job is the only remedy for this spot you see in this pic.

 

madtv126

Gold Supporter
Jul 30, 2018
70
Fort Mill, SC
#48
My only suggestion is to wait until you see it filled it is highly likely that you won't notice it.

There are spots that you can see when dry that are not visible when wet. Sadly, as I have learned with my own DIY projects you will always know it's there even if no one else ever sees it.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,218
Northern NJ
#49
The finish of your pool looks very different in the close up pic then what I thought it was based on the pics when you asked about the rope hooks.

That is a much smaller area then the way the patched rope hooks would be. I would let them patch it. I doubt anyone but you will ever know it was patched. Every pool has imperfections and you will get more over the years. It is like a car. The first ding is heart breaking. If you keep a car for many years they all get their battle scars.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#50
Re: Resurfacing questions

I calculated my fill water flow rate with one hose and two hoses. Fill started at approx. 1230-1245 today. One hose, my pool should fill in 32h, 45m. Two hoses, in 19h, 45m. I have 1 hose going right now. I had 2 going for a couple of hours. I estimate that based on these flow rates and the amount of hours I had one and two hoses going, and with one hose going now, it should be done at 1900 tomorrow.

Here are my house water test results at 1630:
pH >8.2
OTO chlorine < or = 0.5
FC 0.5
CC 1.0
CH 125
TA 100
water temp 62 degrees
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,218
Northern NJ
#52

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#53
madtv126 and ajw22 good points. It's just hard b/c it was literally just completed. Yes, true, the problems I find now are much bigger than they will be after we've had this surface for sometime. No one else is going to look at these things as closely as me (even my dear wife). She would not have even known about this spot unless I brought it to her attention.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#54
Ajw22, that is exactly the PDF I bookmarked. Burkett's gave something similar, but I figured it is better to follow Wet Edge's as they are the manufacturer.

I never did get that 3rd hose going, but I still can. There is clearly a significant time difference b/w filling w/ 1 vs. 2 hoses. As such, is there any benefit to getting my pool filled as quickly as possible? Hypothetically, if a 3rd hose will help things, perhaps it will result in a finish time by or before 0550 when I leave for work. However, I won't be back to do the 1st brushing until 1645-1715 tomorrow.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,218
Northern NJ
#55
I never did get that 3rd hose going, but I still can. There is clearly a significant time difference b/w filling w/ 1 vs. 2 hoses. As such, is there any benefit to getting my pool filled as quickly as possible? Hypothetically, if a 3rd hose will help things, perhaps it will result in a finish time by or before 0550 when I leave for work. However, I won't be back to do the 1st brushing until 1645-1715 tomorrow.
I wouldn't sweat it. You are doing good. Whatever amount of hoses work for your schedule will be ok. Pools survive with a lot of ignorant owners. Yours will do just fine with your attention.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#56
Tx Allen.

But, if I pursue what you’re stating in Post 37, if I want them to patch that small spot, I assume my best bet is to really slow down the fill rate so they could get it done. Otherwise it will be under the waterline.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#57
Alright. Pool fill completed at 1700. Turned on my Hayward MaxFlo 1.5 hp VSP. However, when I opened the air valve on my cartridge housing and after the water shot out, I instantly knew something was different. The distance the water hot out of the primed cartridge housing was less than before with my old plaster. I checked the GPM flow on my Flo-Vis flow meter, looked at the pressure gauge, and felt the water flow at each return jet. Especially the water flow at one of the return jets in the shallow end at the left of the pool steps, it doesn't feel the same. I even felt inside this return jet. My finger felt some disc like object that was inside. Must have broken off when they removed the prior eyeball. I'll have to deal with this later as it is not priority. But whatever the case, I don't think that could fully explain the decreased flow rate. I just don't understand how my flow rate could be different the instant I turn on my pump. About 1 week or so before the pool remodel, I even hosed down my 4 cartridges very thoroughly. Could this be from plaster dust? Debris?

After I finally moved on, I got the pump set to filter 24/7 at 1500 RPM. Probably too much, but whatever. Flo-Vis shows 30 GPM. Tested the water.

@ 1830
pH >8.2
FC 0.5
CH 100
TA 110
water temp 61 degrees
(Didn't bother with CC or OTO chlorine)

Then, I very thoroughly brushed the pool. I am tempted to get a combo brush as Wet Edge does recommend that. Even though I really think the all nylon is good enough, I just wonder if I'd see any difference from using a combo.

Also, the pool contractor informed me that they will be able to come out tomorrow b/w 1300-1600 to balance the water. I am really tempted to start the balancing now however. What do you all think? Wait for them as this was included in the contract and is a service they provide? If for some reason I can't be around during the time the tech is here, perhaps I'd skip it b/c I'd want to be here to see exactly what he is intending on putting in. For one thing, they do put in a metal sequesterant. I did have my house water tested at my local pool shop over the summer for metals. Fortunately, none were detected. Despite that, it would not hurt having them add that sequesterant. I know I won't continue using it, and it will have a negative affect on my chlorine when I eventually add it, but for the time being until it dissipates, seems okay to have in the water.
 

Rocket J Squirrel

Bronze Supporter
Jun 7, 2018
239
Alamo, CA
#58
I’d bet money you have debris in your plumbing in addition to whatever’s in that one return. I did after my re-plastering. I cleared some of it myself, and the PB hired a diver to clear the main drain.

I would correct the pH now. That’s the only critical thing on day one. My PB’s guy told me to test & correct even before my pool was full.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#59
Well, fell asleep shortly there after just from exhaustion from my work. Getting back to this this morning. So I guess it’s been 12 hours versus the recommended 4 hours to balance the water. I think it’ll be OK.

Anyhow, plugged my numbers in the pool math. Even though I think my pH is higher than 8.2, I’m just gonna use that value. Are usually add 75% of the recommended amount of acid tonight over shoe things. But in this case do you guys think I should just add the full amount that’s shown on Pool Math?

Also, do you think I should sweat the calcium right now or just focus on the pH? My calcium again is 100 and it’s recommended to bring it up the 200 per the Wet Edge start up instructions. Again they are coming between 1300 to 1600 to do the start up. I was thinking just leave the calcium and they could deal with that.
 

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
695
Livermore, CA
#60
At 0845 added 35 oz MA (I use 31.45%). In Pool Math, I entered pH 8.2 and goal pH 7.5.

At 1030 pH >8.2, TA 100, CH 100. Added 35 oz MA.

At 1230 pH >8.2. Added 40 oz MA.