Wet Edge Satin Matrix start up

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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Copy that Allen. Yes I was trying to get the FC up to a range of 4 to 6 initially to get it to stabilize/hold. Looks like it is.

Yes Kim, I am very glad it’s holding!

Day 14 @ 1515
pH 7.5
FC 4.5
CC 0
CH 250-300 (even with the Speedster, but in daylight, and testing twice, maybe this is more the accurate range; not a significant difference than 350 though)
TA 90
H2O temp 53

I’m still brushing 1x/day. There is no dust/zero; there has not been for many days now. Although Wet Edge Startup still says to brush daily, I’m questioning that. But I think I could still go 2 more weeks, if needed. It’s a chore which I am glad to cut back on. Thoughts/opinions on daily versus every other day? A blanket statement of every day brushing can’t truly be the same for plaster all the way through Aggregrate, Primera Stone, and Quartz finishes.

Probably will hold off on putting back in that borrowed zodiac barracuda. I think I could wait two more weeks and just throw in Ghostlight, a.k.a. Maytronics S200.

Will probably test CYA ~day 21.

Still have my filter running 24/7, even though I don’t need to. I believe it can’t hurt anything.

I’ll post a pic I took a couple days ago of my water clarity in front of my pool light after brushing. It’s quite clear.
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
BThanks Kim. Yes, decided to continue the 1x/day brushing.

Day 15 @ 2100
pH 7.6-7.8
FC 3.5
CC 0
TA 90
CH 300

Added 8 oz MA.

Day 16 & 1430
pH 7.5
FC 2.5
CC 0.5
TA 90
CH 300

Added 30 oz chlorine, 3.5 oz MA.

Day 17 @ 1615
pH 7.8
FC 3.5
CC 0.5
TA 90
CH 300

Added 15 oz MA, 50 oz chlorine. Since I have a CC of 0.5, brought FC up to 6 to stay ahead of it and also not exceed my FC goal of 4 - 6 at this time. Although Wet Edge recommends a chlorine level of 1 - 3 for the first 28 days, and the minimum is 2 per Pool Math, I think it is risky and contributing to a CC of 0.5.
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Ok Allen. I guess I just assumed going up to the FC upper limit of 6 would be okay. Even though I knew a CC of 0.5 is OK, I just figured it would be better to stay on top of it, but I’ll heed your direction Allen.

Day 18 @ 1200
FC 5
CC 0.5
pH 7.5
TA (not testing; tested last night)
CH (not testing; tested last night)
CYA (will test on or after day 21)
h2o temp 52

Even though the pool is holding FC now, I still think there is some residual effect from the metal sequestrant because normally at this time of year FC wouldn’t drop from last night to this morning.

Think I should add any MA, or just let it ride?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,838
Northern NJ
PH of 7.5 is fine. Don't add MA until PH is 7.8.

FC should not drop at night. FC is consumed by sun UV during the day. And you get less FC loss in the winter when sun angle is lower.
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Day 19 @ 1900
FC 4
CC 0.5
pH 7.8, or 7.5-7.8
TA 90
CH 300
CYA (will test on or after day 21)
h2o temp 52

Added 9 oz MA. Some difficulty distinguishing pH. Used ~50% of recommended amount of MA for lowering pH from 7.8 to 7.5 (17 oz).

Today, Day 20, Burkett's Primera Stone polishing technician will be coming to polish/smooth out two areas of my Wet Edge Satin Matrix. To refresh reader's memories, instead of opting for any patch work, or patch redo, I took the plaster surface director's recommendation to have their tech come by and attempt to smooth out the areas that are a little rough (a spot along the deep end tile line, and a sidewall/step/bottom transition area in the shallow end). I bring this up b/c I wonder if I should have them wait and do this after the first 28 days. While I know no chemicals will be added to the water/pool, is it necessary or better to have this work done later?
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Day 20 @ 1400
pH 7.5
FC 2.5
CC 0.5
TA 90
CH 300
CYA 30

R-0871 reagent came out. quickly. Perhaps level was 3, but let’s just say 2.5. Added 15 oz chlorine. I’ll check FC again later after the Burkett’s tech comes.

Today was better to test CYA. Good enough sunshine overhead to test. Using same sample, performed test x3 (best of 3 so to speak). Now I usually keep my back to the sun, but sometimes I’ll turn to the sun and test. Sometimes hard to estimate if I see the black disk. Anyway, this time, the first check it was closer to 20, second, closer to 30, third, right in the middle b/w 20-30. So, I’m saying it’s 30 and I’ll check again in a couple of weeks.
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Day 20 @1700
Post polishing. Tech dived and smoothed out those two areas. Used the brush on the transition to the left of the steps in the shallow end and I could tell that it is smoother. He did add some acid to those areas to acid wash it. Looks slightly a little whiter on the area to the left of the steps, but he stated that it should blend in. I'm hoping so b/c I do see that spot. If this was all for nothing and to trade some roughness now for a visible spot, what was it all for. I'll just wait and hope to see that it blends in.

pH 6.8-7.2

Should I add maybe 50% of 180 oz (if based on pH 6.8) - 43 oz (if based on pH 7.2) of borax to raise pH to 7.4 [this is based on borax by volume]? Seems a little too low now. I know you have said before Kim I could just aerate to bring it up, and I have done that in the past on my old surface, but that will take a good amount of time/days. I am inclined to raise quicker with borax. Thoughts?

Well, for the time being I threw in the sump pump on my steps to aerate. This is my pseudo-fountain. The boys love using it in the summer as a water blaster.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
3,838
Northern NJ
How did your PH get so low? Go easy on that MA.

Just aerate and let your PH rise naturally. Do less not more. You do not need to react to every little change.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
36,856
Tallahassee, FL
What fun the kids must have with their water gun LOL Yeah just use that and your will see your pH up.

pH testing-I hold a white plate up behind the tube and pull it back and forth to help me find the color match. I also do it under my stove hood light that has a 60 watt bulb in it.

CYA testing-GLANCE in to see the dot. Do not look for it. Just GLANCE in and move on.

You are doing great so far. I hope the spot does blend in. You can and should brush all around it to help it blend in as well (saying this knowing how much you *love* brushing LOL).

Kim:kim:
 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Thanks Kim for your support. I got some pics I'll share of that spot. I've had my pseudo-water fountain/cannon going continuously to raise the pH. Has risen from 6.8. I just think though why not use the Borax to raise it quicker so that the water doesn't hang out to long in the corrosive side.

I too use a white background with the TFT-100 instruction card up and use the larger white part of it as a background. Or, on a cloudy day like today, I'll just use the sky. Today, I could clearly distinguish that it is 7.2

Day 21 @ 1000
pH 7.2
FC 3
CC 0.5
TA 80
CH 250 (I think it has been 250 not 300)
CYA 30 (as tested yesterday)
h2o temp 52

I'll looking at a CSI of -0.67. If I raise the pH to 7.5 either through aeration or Borax to 7.5, I am still looking at -0.37. So:
1. Should I raise TA back up to 90?
2. Leave CH at 250?
3. Use aeration for natural pH rise?
4. Use Borax to raise pH to 7.6, and leave TA and CH alone?

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Yesterday, Burkett's tech/diver prepping to polish spot(s)


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My pseudo-water fountain/cannon on 2nd step


Today, Day 21's pH 7.2


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Where's the polished spot?




 
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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
701
Livermore, CA
Ah, did not realize so much acid was used in the polishing.

Aerate and your PH should be in the 7s tomorrow.
Yea, neither did I even know any acid was used in the polishing. Burkett's Wet Edge plaster field supervisor had only informed me that the tech would be polishing it and he even stated "no material would be removed or added." I assume he was referring to the literal process of material removal vs. the sanding/buffing/polishing (however you want to refer to it) of material that would still be removed regardless.

It was only after the tech was doing the job that I learned that they acid wash the polished spots.