- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Any 240V 20A GFCI CB will do. You don’t need anything fancy for a 2 speed pump.
You download PoolMath yet and get the app setup?
You can run your pump from 3 hours a day to 24 hours a day depending on what is the minimum time to generate 3 ppm of chlorine with your RJ45 running at 100%. From there the more you run the pump the lower the % need to be. Running the pump for 12 hours or so during daylight and letting the SWG maintain the chlorine level is a good starting point.
Use Effects of Adding in PoolMath to determine the SWG % for a given pump runtime to generate 3 ppm.
Get your pool and equipment setup and running. Fill pool. Add 60 ppm of stabilizer hanging in some socks by the returns. Add 5 ppm of liquid chorine. Add 3000 ppm of salt and brush it around the pool to dissolve. You can do all that in the first hour after the pool is filled and the pump is running. Be checking things for leaks. Run your pump for 24 hours straight while CYA and salt are dissolving.
Leave your SWG off while adding salt and if possible for 24 hours after. Then turn on SWG, set %, and it should begin generating chlorine.
If all goes well you can leave pool at that point with the SWG taking care of daily chlorination. Your FC level will probably rise over the week and you can adjust it and other chemicals when you return.
What is the pH, TA & CH of the fill water you will be using?
Any stabilizer that says 100% Cyanuric Acid is fine. It is a commodity.
With a fill water pH of 8.2 get a gallon of 31% muriatic acid.
Pump is directly wired, no plug.
Put the pump/filter/timer at least 6 feet away from the pool.
The building inspector said that using the CB in the basement, next to a window with direct line of sight would pass. I'll ask the electrician tomorrow and verify with the inspector to be sure i dont run afoul.Timer/load center in the basement does not meet the requirements for a maintenance disconnect for the pump.
Dont bother setting foot in a pool store. Use your TF-100 when you get it.
Use liquid chlorine- Sodium Hypochlorite not cal-hypo m
Is powder Sodium Hypochlorite effictive as well? .
Great, that saves a bunch on the CB cost.It’s ok to connect SWG on pump GFCI CB.
Bonding wire is required to be solid bare 8 gauge copper wire.
The electrician is going to come tuesday and has offered to trench as well which is a huge advantage. I've cleared a spot and all looks well. But i have a few questions about how to wire stuff:
1) The suggestion, and possible code requirement, is a twist lock power cord for the pump. The electrician was going to wire two 240v outlets off of one CB. My worry with the PE25300 is that I want to use it to control the SWG timing. If both outlets are on one CB, and the intermatic works off of switching that Circuit, wont that be a conflict? It was mentioned previously the pump gets continuous voltage and the controller onboard is what controls the running vs the panel controlling the pump.
2) Will the SWG have the ability to retain the settings when the timer shuts the circuit down?
Is there an optimal percentage to run a SWG? The TFP SWG Calculator said 55% for 4 hours or so. (if i recall)
3) Pump wiring - 120 or 240? I've read 240 is less load. Is there a consensus among the forum?
4) Panel - The current suggestion is to place it outside. I was thinking inside, but the bonding wire needs to go all the way out vs using UF wire and bonding at the panel outside. I dont know how i can make the panel removable for the winter which is also why i wanted it inside. The electrician said we can do anything but as we know anything just means added costs. I want to do it right, one time. My two thoughts are: 1) Panel outside. 2) Panel inside, bigger conduit, possibly two 240v circuits and a 120v. Thoughts? Suggestions? Press F for thoughts and prayers?
Control is nice...........yeah I am control freak so.............LOL
Kim