SWG, Water Testing and Solids PPM Ratio - Need Help

[RodRamos]

BACKGROUND: Hello, first time poster but I've been using these forums for quite a while. Anyways, personally we have owned an inground pool ages ago (our old house) and even then we weren't there long enough to understand what we were doing poolwise. Now at our current t house we have no inground pool so we have installed above ground pools. We started with a big one, 22'x56 if I'm not mistaken and when we had the baby 15 months ago we downgraded to a 13'x30 which is perfect for us at the moment, the idea is to upgrade every few years to a bigger pool as she grows up and her swimming skills increase.

That being said I am NO expert in keeping a pool, learning as I go.

The first question is in reference to a Salt Water Generator. Could someone point me in the right direction to get more info about what it is, what they do, advantages vs disadvantages etc. I googled it but only found limited information.

The other question is a few weeks back because of all the rain and neglect on my part our pool turned green and had *embarrassed tadpoles. I shocked it, cleaned it, had to change the filter a few times but got the water crystal clear. I took a sample to Pinch a Penny and all tested well except the PPM levels were really high (3600). I read in cases like this the only option is to drain and refill. Since I was paranoid about putting the baby in that water I went ahead and drained and refilled. Anyways just retested at Pinch a Penny an hour ago and the PPM came back 1400. Is this normal for fresh tap water? I mean I cleaned the bottom of any material, had it all clean like new. I even rinsed the pump and inside the hoses.

I mean I noticed how Pinch a Penny never cleans their equipment between tests so could this be it.

I appreciate any help and insight you guys could provide.

ROD

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
What parameter are quoting as PPM? Salinity, TDS, etc?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[ajw22]

Read ...

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[RodRamos]

Sorry I realize now I didn't specify. I'm referring to the total dissolved solids. This honestly have me scratching my head because so ce I made the original post I read on Google if it gets at or above 800 you should change your water. How the heck am I at 1400PPM TDS with brand new fresh water???

 

[mknauss]

Ok -- TDS is meaningless. Pool stores love the term as it is an excuse to tell people to drain their pool when their potions they sell no longer work.

Certain components of TDS are important. Calcium Hardness, CYA, and salinity are the components that matter.

To properly manage your pool water chemistry you need a proper test kit.
Order a TF-100

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.

I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.

 

[RodRamos]

Ok -- TDS is meaningless. Pool stores love the term as it is an excuse to tell people to drain their pool when their potions they sell no longer work.

Certain components of TDS are important. Calcium Hardness, CYA, and salinity are the components that matter.

To properly manage your pool water chemistry you need a proper test kit.
Order a TF-100

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.

I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.

That's exactly what I was going to ask next. Not sure I really trust Pinch a Penny tests. Thank you so much for the reply.

According to their test Calcium Hardness is at 325 which is flagged as "high". They dont test for Salinity and I can't see anything resembling CYA.

I will take a look at those kits and order one. What do you personally recpmend the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006? I have heard of the Taylor K2006 from the many posts I read here in the past.

Again thank you so much for your help.

 

[IceShadow]

I got the Taylor K-2006c. In my opinion, the Taylor has the better carrying case, but the TF-100-xl (about the same price if you go with the XL option) has more of the types of reagents that you'll use more. If I were to do it again I'd probably get the TF-100-XL instead.

 

[ajw22]

Calcium level does not matter for most vinyl pools.

Test Kits Compared may help you understand differences. TF-100 has the most reagents you commonly use. It is the best value.

 

[thetekgeek]

Welcome Rod. You've come to the right place. I recommend the TF100 kit. More reagents for the tests you will perform more frequently.

It is probably a little overwhelming right now to try and digest all of this information, but it will get much easier once you have the test kit and start performing your own tests. The experts here are extremely knowledgeable and provide unbelievable guidance for everything you will need to do with your pool. The TFPC method is based upon understanding what each chemical will do BEFORE you add it to the water. Most of us here only ever use a few products to make adjustments and NONE of them have to be purchased from the pool store. Those items are liquid chlorine (bleach), muriatic acid, cyanuric acid. That is about it to get started, occasionally you might need to pick up some baking soda if your total alkalinity gets too low. You have a vinyl pool, so you won't really need to worry about Calcium level much at all.

Once you understand the method, you will easily be able to manage your pool water and always have the confidence that your little baby will always be swimming in perfectly safe water!

 

[RodRamos]

Welcome Rod. You've come to the right place. I recommend the TF100 kit. More reagents for the tests you will perform more frequently.

It is probably a little overwhelming right now to try and digest all of this information, but it will get much easier once you have the test kit and start performing your own tests. The experts here are extremely knowledgeable and provide unbelievable guidance for everything you will need to do with your pool. The TFPC method is based upon understanding what each chemical will do BEFORE you add it to the water. Most of us here only ever use a few products to make adjustments and NONE of them have to be purchased from the pool store. Those items are liquid chlorine (bleach), muriatic acid, cyanuric acid. That is about it to get started, occasionally you might need to pick up some baking soda if your total alkalinity gets too low. You have a vinyl pool, so you won't really need to worry about Calcium level much at all.

Once you understand the method, you will easily be able to manage your pool water and always have the confidence that your little baby will always be swimming in perfectly safe water!

Are you referring to the BBB method? I ask because I have read a post on it but dont quite understand the process yet. I was planning on doing some more reading on it.

 

[thetekgeek]

Yes. It is called different things, but basically the same thing.

Read this: What is TFPC? - Trouble Free Pool

 

[RodRamos]

Yes. It is called different things, but basically the same thing.

Read this: What is TFPC? - Trouble Free Pool

I'm going to read up on it. The posts I read was from people like me, without much knowledge of pool care who spent hundreds at their local pool store unsuccessfully, before they were learned the basics of BBB to balance your poolwater.

 

[ajw22]

BBB is an old name for what is now TFPC

What is TFPC?

We believe any pool owner can achieve and maintain safe, crystal clear pool water, by using the science-based, Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) methodology.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

We now use TFPC, Trouble Free Pool Care, instead of BBB since it more accurately describes the process since most pools don't need borax or baking soda. Typically chlorine and muriatic acid are the most needed chemical additions.

 

[RodRamos]

I went ahead and ordered the Taylor 2006C kit. I'm going to read up as much as I can but so far I added 21oz of chlorine (it's a small pool) and I have the float with the tabs on it and the pump circulating. The water looks crystal clear, but I think it's running a bit high on the PH. As soon as the Taylor kit arrives I'll be able to do some diagnostics and see where its at and make corrections. I will keep reading up the articles here to get a better grasp on what I am doing. I appreciate everyones help and I will definitely post the results.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Remember to order the speedstir, makes testing easier and more fun.

 

[thetekgeek]

I went ahead and ordered the Taylor 2006C kit. I'm going to read up as much as I can but so far I added 21oz of chlorine (it's a small pool) and I have the float with the tabs on it and the pump circulating. The water looks crystal clear, but I think it's running a bit high on the PH. As soon as the Taylor kit arrives I'll be able to do some diagnostics and see where its at and make corrections. I will keep reading up the articles here to get a better grasp on what I am doing. I appreciate everyones help and I will definitely post the results.

21 oz of 12.5% bleach (is the bleach 12.5%?) should have raised your FC by 5.7 (assuming 3600 gal pool based on size provided in Post 1). My advise would be to get those tabs out of the water and add 21 oz. every day between now and when the test kit arrives. Since we have no way of knowing what the other products the pool store sold you added since you filled, I would hate to see you get the test kit and have a CYA level that is already too high. The tabs raise Chlorine, but also raise CYA and lower PH and Total Alkalinity.

Can you tell us every chemical that has been added since you last filled the pool?

 

[RodRamos]

21 oz of 12.5% bleach (is the bleach 12.5%?) should have raised your FC by 5.7 (assuming 3600 gal pool based on size provided in Post 1). My advise would be to get those tabs out of the water and add 21 oz. every day between now and when the test kit arrives. Since we have no way of knowing what the other products the pool store sold you added since you filled, I would hate to see you get the test kit and have a CYA level that is already too high. The tabs raise Chlorine, but also raise CYA and lower PH and Total Alkalinity.

Can you tell us every chemical that has been added since you last filled the pool?

Sorry I was wrong on the pool size. Our pool is actually the Bestways 12x30 with a 1730 gallon capacity, small but with a 15mo old baby it's perfect for us. So far I added 21oz of chlorine from the pool store...that's it. No other chemical has been added. The reason I did that was I still have a gallon of chlorine left and in the Florida sun fresh water can turn green quick. So only 21oz of chlorine so far. I just removed the tabs from the pool so hopefully it's not too late.

 

[thetekgeek]

Since the tabs are the only thing you’ve added other than the chlorine, do you know how many tabs were added and how many fully dissolved? If only a few, I’d calculate 30 ppm of cya and add that now. Use the sock method to dissolve it. You can get it at Walmart it will be labeled as stabilizer. Just look at the ingredients, it should be 100% cyanuric acid. Assume you have 40 ppm CYA once that is dissolved. Then calculate 5 ppm chlorine using whatever strength you have. Add that amount of chlorine each day until your test kit arrives. The chlorine you added today is likely gone at this point, it was burned off by the sun.

 

[thetekgeek]

Btw. 1730 gallons, 21 oz. of 12.5% bleach should have raised to 12 ppm FC. So, your daily addition until your kit arrives should be 9 oz. (this is all assuming your bleach is 12.5% and you did add the CYA suggested)