Swamp Fever

Too early to bother doing an OCLT. You do that when the water is gin-clear.

How do you determine that it's "gin-clear" I look at it, and it looks pretty Darn clear. Especially compared to what I started with, or even what it looked like a week ago. Today I installed the new 'precise' gauge, which is giving me the same reading the Hayward gauge did, 12psi@2200RPM. My heater, however, behaves strangely by morning, constantly starting then stopping. I take that as a sign the filter is clogged, even though the pressure gauge hasn't budged to my eye. I'll see what it looks like in the morning, I just backwashed again and recharged again, and I'm out of DE. If the filter is clogging up so quickly, why isn't the pressure going up? If the filter isn't actually clogged to the point I need to backwash it, what's wrong with my heater?
 
Its certainly much better than when you started. To start to end the SLAM, you pool needs to be crystal clear. I've heard people describe it as gin clear, being able to tell heads/tails on a quarter sitting at the bottom, etc.

For you, we are going to say it is clear enough when you can count the number of spikes on an itchyball at the bottom of the pool. :laughblue:

Its hard to tell from your pictures since there is a lot of reflection in them, but you may need a few more days.

For reference, here is a pic of mine from a few weeks ago when I was having an issue (stupid clorox product gave me rust stains). This is taken from standing on the deck and is of the drain at 6' deep. If yours is that clear, I would say you are ready for an OCLT. If not, you are close but a few days away.
IMG_6620 (1).jpg
 
Last edited:
As for your heater, we have the same. Mine cycled on and off at first. The PB called in a warranty claim and the Pentair guy fixed it. I bet that is a separate issue, but I would turn it off and call your PB. Hopefully it is fixed about the same time your pool is ready for swimming.
 
Its certainly much better than when you started. To start to end the SLAM, you pool needs to be crystal clear. I've heard people describe it as gin clear, being able to tell heads/tails on a quarter sitting at the bottom, etc.

For you, we are going to say it is clear enough when you can count the number of spikes on an itchyball at the bottom of the pool. :laughblue:

Its hard to tell from your pictures since there is a lot of reflection in them, but you may need a few more days.

For reference, here is a pic of mine from a few weeks ago when I was having an issue (stupid clorox product gave me rust stains). This is taken from standing on the deck and is of the drain at 6' deep. If yours is that clear, I would say you are ready for an OCLT. If not, you are close but a few days away.
I'm 8 or 9 feet deep. Didn't have the diving board reinstalled. Going to save up for a slide, much more fun for my kid once she's capable of doing more than crawling and drooling. My older one is more interested in SCUBA than diving.
 
That looks great, much better than the pics from yesterday.

Sounds like the pool company is trying the easiest route first on the heater. My clean pressure is never 10 (at 3000 rpms). When you bypass the filter does the heater work fine?

I wish I knew what they did to my heater to fix it, but it took the guy less than 10 minutes to make the appropriate adjustments. He also recommended me getting a larger gas meter. I'm not convinced I needed it, but it was free from the gas company so I went ahead and did that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jerseyrails
That looks great, much better than the pics from yesterday.

Sounds like the pool company is trying the easiest route first on the heater. My clean pressure is never 10 (at 3000 rpms). When you bypass the filter does the heater work fine?

I wish I knew what they did to my heater to fix it, but it took the guy less than 10 minutes to make the appropriate adjustments. He also recommended me getting a larger gas meter. I'm not convinced I needed it, but it was free from the gas company so I went ahead and did that.

The heater works fine when the filter is bypassed. I thought it was something with the filter, because even when the filter pressure barely moved up from 12, you could see less turbulence in the water near the returns. So I bought the wash for the filter elements, and I'll try and take care of them Friday since I have to go into my office tomorrow.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The heater works fine when the filter is bypassed. I thought it was something with the filter, because even when the filter pressure barely moved up from 12, you could see less turbulence in the water near the returns. So I bought the wash for the filter elements, and I'll try and take care of them Friday since I have to go into my office tomorrow.
I'm not sure why you would want to bypass the filter and let the water through the heater. Usually we would bypass a heater say there's a heater problem but the other way around I've never seen.
 
I'm not sure why you would want to bypass the filter and let the water through the heater. Usually we would bypass a heater say there's a heater problem but the other way around I've never seen.
Bypassing the heater won't help to diagnose the problem with the heater.
The heater is only a problem when the water is going through the filter. So the filter is the first thing you remove from the equation.
 
Woohoo! I told you, once you start seeing that bottom it motivates you to the finish line. Great job!

Now use this as a lesson on properly closing your pool, so your openings are a breeze. Then you can spend a couple hours opening and a bunch of hours drinking poolside ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jerseyrails
Cleaned my grids again and my clean pressure is now...11. The water is nice and clear. I didn't put anything in the pool today and had no real time to test. After getting the grids cleaned I reassembled and recharged the filter, so we'll see what the flow is in the morning when the timer kicks the heater on.
 
Hopefully your heater works fine tomorrow and you pass the OCLT tomorrow night. Thats a great way to start the weekend.
 
wow.. It looks like your not sure what size SWG you have based on your signature. So yea with a 45K pool you should have a SWG rated for 90K to give the wiggle room for operating at something other than full blast. And that would make sense if you have one rated for your actual pool volume that it couldn't keep up in certain conditions.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.