seafoam green pool....stumped just about everyone!!!
- Thread starter shayy_1988
- Start date
I KNOW !!!!! You’ll come to know and love us all. But we already know you because we lived some exact version of your story.
The hardest part is getting that through to everybody new. No doubt you’ll be helping us with the next round of newbs.
‘OMG I was there too. Look what these people did in my thread !! I was you and now I’m them. Be one of *us*’.
Okay here are our test results using the new kit.
CYA:70
PH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 200
FC: 4.4 ppm
CC: 0.4
Yes I know the CYA is high. Earlier this week we drained a quarter of the pool and it was a literal mess. Plus we have been getting rain every day here in south Florida so our yard is a flood mess as it is. I definitely can’t do anymore draining for now. It rains though so that should help it lower? Prior to the partial drain this week, the pool store recorded CYA at 96 so I think we made some progress.
From my understanding the CC should be 0 or as close to 0 as possible? Is that correct and why so? What does the 0 mean exactly.
What should we do next? OCLT or go right into SLAM. Also, do environmental factors count into the OCLT? (like if it rains etc).
Pool is not green anymore. Still brushing (hopefully dead) algae off the bottom but very minimal amounts.
CYA:70
PH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 200
FC: 4.4 ppm
CC: 0.4
Yes I know the CYA is high. Earlier this week we drained a quarter of the pool and it was a literal mess. Plus we have been getting rain every day here in south Florida so our yard is a flood mess as it is. I definitely can’t do anymore draining for now. It rains though so that should help it lower? Prior to the partial drain this week, the pool store recorded CYA at 96 so I think we made some progress.
From my understanding the CC should be 0 or as close to 0 as possible? Is that correct and why so? What does the 0 mean exactly.
What should we do next? OCLT or go right into SLAM. Also, do environmental factors count into the OCLT? (like if it rains etc).
Pool is not green anymore. Still brushing (hopefully dead) algae off the bottom but very minimal amounts.
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Never mind on the CC question. I read ABC of pool chemistry. So now my question is, since it’s a 0.4, not a 0.5 do I SLAM?
Ok. We can deal. Your pool is small so increasing your liquid chlorine demand won’t hurt nearly as much.
CCs are the result from the FC doing it’s thing. Chlorine eats the baddies. The baddies cry out one last gasp of breath (gas) and that’s when you ‘smell like a pool’. It’s why public pools smell so chlorine-y.
You want .5, preferably 0 to prove the chlorine doesn’t have to kill anything.
Get to SLAM FC per the FC/CYA Levels. You want a FC of 28 and you want it to stay at 28. Anytime it dips below looses efficiency. You really want to test/add every 2 hours at first. (Do the best you can, we all have lives too).
Test, add per poolmath, wait 20 mins and test to verify you hit your target.
the first day it can chew though chlorine. Day 2 usually holds for 4+hours and by day 3 it can be 8 hours or more. The back half of SLaM is more about filtering. You’ll keep the FC up anyway, but won’t need to add but twice a day.
Brush and vac everyday. More if possible.
You got this.
shouldn't they drop their pH first? at 8 that is pretty high and at SLAM chlorine levels testing won't work.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 3,004
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also test FC with 10ml. You only need .5 resolution. It will save a lot of reagents. Each drop = .5 FC
In fact for the first day test with 5ml since you will testing a lot. Each drop = 1ppm FC
For day 1 its hand grenades, close is good enough.
In fact for the first day test with 5ml since you will testing a lot. Each drop = 1ppm FC
For day 1 its hand grenades, close is good enough.
Thank you!!!! And according to that chart with a CYA at 70, the chlorine should always be between
Thank you! According to the chart with a level 70 CYA, outside of slam, I should maintain a 8-10 FC level at all times but never at 5? Is it safe to swim in a level 8-10???
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 3,004
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 3,004
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Exactly. But never ever approach a 5. In Miami you will use more daily FC than most. We average 2-4 ppm across TFP land.
you want to end up ‘in range’ factoring that loss. Or else 8-4 = 4 and it’s a one way ticket to algae town. So really target a 12 and fall to 8 for some safety net. Especially as you get to know your pool and its demand habits.
The CYA loses about 5 ppm a month to degradation and the rains will help dilute some too. It will come down.
Swimming is safe up to and including SLaM.
Thank you both! This might be a silly question but you said I need to get to FC of 28. So do I add the entire amount of bleach recommended to get to that point right away or in intervals ? And then the whole point is try to maintain it at a 28 as long as possible until all 3 criteria is met?
Yup. Pencil sized stream (to minimize splashes) in front of a return. Brush the floor good. It’s heavier than water and some could puddle up and bleach your liner.
Exactly. M is for maintain. The more you do, the shorter the process. You get busy and step away for a day, you might be at square 1. Or mostly square 1. We get it. Life happens. Don’t fault the process though.
CTFocusST
Well-known member
- Jul 4, 2019
- 235
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Use muriatic acid to drop the PH before you add all the chlorine so you can verify you dropped the ph
Really appreciate all your help guys! I added the bleach then did a test for OCLT. Earlier today CC was 0.4 and now it was 0.5. Is it normal for CC to raise a bit after adding such a high amount of bleach?
CraigChing
Gold Supporter
- Jun 15, 2019
- 202
- Pool Size
- 22000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
While in the middle of a SLAM the only measurement you care about is FC and how close it is to your target SLAM level. Remember there are three criteria to complete a SLAM:
1. CC is 0.5 or lower
2. You pass an OCLT
3. Your water is crystal clear
1. CC is 0.5 or lower
2. You pass an OCLT
3. Your water is crystal clear
Yes, was just wondering if the CC increasing from 0.4 to 0.5 was normal within a couple hours but I guess it doesn’t really matter since 0.5 is okay. Just was curious haha!
Also I feel like a lot of these tests and criteria’s are open to interpretation. For example, two of us were looking for the black dot in CYA and could easily see the black dot disappear at slightly different times. Somebody might think the water is “crystal clear” while another doesn’t exactly think it is. Somebody might see something colorless while somebody else sees a slight tint in water. You need some good eye sight for this
Random thoughts this morning
That’s why you have a small army of us folks helping two. So we can *all* see something different and make you feel better about it.
*googley eye. I did warn you it would laugh at you the whole time. Funny little jokester. All proud of himself and stuff.
Lmao!!!! You’re right.That’s why you have a small army of us folks helping two. So we can *all* see something different and make you feel better about it.
*googley eye. I did warn you it would laugh at you the whole time. Funny little jokester. All proud of himself and stuff.
This morning:
FC: 27.5 (it was 28 last night)
CC: 0.5
Crystal clear? What do you think? Photo taken before sunrise so maybe I’ll wait until this afternoon to look (if the sun shines today). Lol
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