Rust around pump
- Thread starter PoolMama1989
- Start date
Not normal. Looks like salt or acid has been spilled on it or leaked.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,843
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello. As John noted, certainly not normal and an indication water is settling from somewhere. Initially I would suspect the shaft seal inside the motor. You can check to see if there are water drippings under the bottom of that motor casing. However that output hose connected to the top of the pump also appears to have been leaking. Seems to be wet in the pic near the band clamp. You might make sure the water isn't coming from there and just running down and underneath to the motor base causing all that rust.
Thank you!!! It’s wet because we just had a heavy rain…so the pool was overflowing from the skimmer. I’ll have my husband check out what you mentioned. I’m the only one who adds chemicals to the pool. So I know it’s not from acid.
hwy17
Well-known member
I'm gonna go with slow leak from the inlet or outlet fitting on the pump has been dribbling pool water onto that motor mount for a long time. And even if it's not a saltwater pool, there's some salinity in it from regular chlorine breakdown.
Those mounts rust if you so much as look at them sideways.
I have the exact same pump and motor with the exact same rusted mounts. I have had it for a number of years now, and they started rusting almost immediately.
My pump does not leak, I do not spill anything on the pump. It rains, and they rust.
I take my entire filter apart each year and perform annual maintainance on it before I store it for the off season. This year, in addition to cleaning, lubricating, etc I pulled the entire motor with mounts off the base, wire wheeled / brushed them (I debated sandblasting, but decided against it this time) down to bare metal, primed them, and repainted them. We will see what happens this season.
Other people on TFP have had this problem as well
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Those mounts are garbage - plain and simple.
If (when) those mounts rust through, you can use something like this, with the correct sized spacers, and band clamps to get the pump mounted again. Just flip it upsidedown so the pump sits in the "cradle" and the flat part is down
Something like this will also work, but you will have to remove all remnants of the rusted feet. That is a 48Y frame motor. So any bracket for a 48Y motor will fit it.
hottubs.parts
I have the exact same pump and motor with the exact same rusted mounts. I have had it for a number of years now, and they started rusting almost immediately.
My pump does not leak, I do not spill anything on the pump. It rains, and they rust.
I take my entire filter apart each year and perform annual maintainance on it before I store it for the off season. This year, in addition to cleaning, lubricating, etc I pulled the entire motor with mounts off the base, wire wheeled / brushed them (I debated sandblasting, but decided against it this time) down to bare metal, primed them, and repainted them. We will see what happens this season.
Other people on TFP have had this problem as well
Hayward PowerFlo Matrix motor mount rust
I have a 4 year old Hayward PowerFlo Matrix SP15932S pump with severe rusting of the motor mount that connects it to the base. It appears that the mount is permanately connected to the motor housing and not replaceable. Has anyone else experienced this or have any solutions?
www.troublefreepool.com
Rusted Mount on Hayward Powerflo Matrix Pump Model SP15932STL
The mount at the base of my Hayward Powerflo Matrix pool pump has a severe rust problem from leaky connections over the last couple of years. The pump is less than 4 years old, so I don't want to replace it. I have seen some "mounting feet" which screw into the base and the pump rests on it...
www.troublefreepool.com
Rusting Hayward motor mount SP1500 Series Power Flo LX
The motor works well. Want to remove the old rusted mount and replace it. Will the Hayward SPX 2600G-1 adaptor mount fit and how does it attach? Does it take 6203 2RS bearings also? :unsure:
www.troublefreepool.com
Those mounts are garbage - plain and simple.
If (when) those mounts rust through, you can use something like this, with the correct sized spacers, and band clamps to get the pump mounted again. Just flip it upsidedown so the pump sits in the "cradle" and the flat part is down
Something like this will also work, but you will have to remove all remnants of the rusted feet. That is a 48Y frame motor. So any bracket for a 48Y motor will fit it.
48 Frame Mounting Bracket
Universal mounting bracket for 48 Frame Bracketless Motors 6000-532 This fits newer style, 48 frame motors without the mounting feet welded to the body. Typically found on models manufactured 2007+. Required for a first time pump replacement on 2002-2006 models. This bracket is compatible with...
hottubs.parts
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That’s exactly what the issue is! Hubby checked it out yesterday. We did add salt to the pool last season…so what you said makes sense.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,747
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Fwiw I have a carvin pump & its like that too. Started almost immediately.
Its a replacement, the original carvin did the same.
I just assumed it was from the combo of it vibrating against the pavers & me opening the pump basket getting salt water everywhere.
Its a replacement, the original carvin did the same.
I just assumed it was from the combo of it vibrating against the pavers & me opening the pump basket getting salt water everywhere.
hwy17
Well-known member
Not that I think this rust is the end of the world, the degraded mount will probably still do it's job good enough until the pump itself dies if the leak is fixed.
But anyway, for illustrative purposes, here is my Hayward powerflo that has been left out in the rain for 4 years, without saline pool water on it. I used it for one year and then replaced it, and never got around to moving it indoors or something.
But anyway, for illustrative purposes, here is my Hayward powerflo that has been left out in the rain for 4 years, without saline pool water on it. I used it for one year and then replaced it, and never got around to moving it indoors or something.
Everybody STOP IT !!!! 
Saline/salt water is 30k+ ppm like seawater at 35k. Whether the LC pool is 1500+ or the 'salt pool' is 3500, they're both a fraction (5%/10%) of actual salt water and behave on the freshwater side of things. Several, like NOAA, claim anything under 5000 ppm is fresh water and brackish is 5000 to 30,000. *Then* saline/salt starts.
Saline/salt water is 30k+ ppm like seawater at 35k. Whether the LC pool is 1500+ or the 'salt pool' is 3500, they're both a fraction (5%/10%) of actual salt water and behave on the freshwater side of things. Several, like NOAA, claim anything under 5000 ppm is fresh water and brackish is 5000 to 30,000. *Then* saline/salt starts.
hwy17
Well-known member
That applies to the water in the pool. When it dribbles out of the pool slowly over long term and evaporates onto things the salinity reaches 100%, aka crusty salt. I can go get a picture of my flex hose bands next to demonstrate. And yes, I realize this effect occurs in both LC and saltwater pools, to different degrees. 3400 will crust up a bit faster than 1000 or 1500.Everybody STOP IT !!!!
On a drinking or irrigation water tank I wouldn't get that from slow leaks, it would be more like a hard water stain from the dominant calcium content. So I'll stand by any pool water being more saline than regular freshwater sources.
Ignoring the salt's contribution to this rust in an effort to insist that saltwater pools are "not saline" would be depriving ourselves of a better understanding of the effect. All pools are a little salty and we don't have to be salty about that.
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Moisture takes out poor quality materials and there's little debate about the quality of the bolts.
I've had a salt pool since 2012 and never once had residuals anywhere splashout happens, from the equipment pad to the patio. On the other hand, my shower heads all have white crusties, with 200ppm or less salt and 50 or less CH in the tap water.
Having robust materials is key around tap water , LC pools, or salt pools.
I've had a salt pool since 2012 and never once had residuals anywhere splashout happens, from the equipment pad to the patio. On the other hand, my shower heads all have white crusties, with 200ppm or less salt and 50 or less CH in the tap water.
Having robust materials is key around tap water , LC pools, or salt pools.
hwy17
Well-known member
It's salt rust, I have posted the same pump base left out in the weather without salt. I'm not blaming the pool for being salty, they have to be. I think it's weird to be evasive and blame this on "moisture".
You cannot just look at it and say "salt". There are any number of reasons that those supports rust. And while your case is single case, there are numerous cases of those supports easily rusting (not just here, but across the web as well).
It could very well be an electrolytically cause rust because of two dissimilar metals.
hwy17
Well-known member
There are not dissimilar metals there, that's a plastic base. And you can see the salt crust all over the pump!
Hubby fixed the leak yesterday. The clamp around the hose wasn’t seated properly. They also used a silicone sealant which had deteriorated. Plumbers tape and fixing the clamp…problem solved
. This has been a lesson learned. Make sure to keep an eye out for leaks in the future!! I appreciate this community!Attachments
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,747
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Tip*
use 2 clamps right next to each other!
If one goes- u got back up
use 2 clamps right next to each other!
If one goes- u got back up
Great idea!!!Tip*
use 2 clamps right next to each other!
If one goes- u got back up
Not the base to the bracket, the bracket to the motor housing. The motor housing is some sort of alloy while the mounting brackets are stamped steel. On those body pumps the brackets are attached directly to the motor housing.
Just because you see white residue does not mean it is salt. It could be any number of things that are in pool water. As I said, if you do some digging, the supports on those motors rusting is a well known issue. The leak that the OP had surely exacerbated the issue but is not the only cause. That mounting bracket on that motor is very prone to rusting.
