Questions about converting to SWG

[Shark77]

Hi, I bought my first house with a pool about 5 years and this forum has been an incredible resource. Up till now I’ve been manually chlorinating my pool with Clorox Bleach. My pool is setup with a SWG that apparently failed before I moved in. I believe the SWG still works (albeit it is old-I would assume from the mid 2000s), and all that failed was the cell. I think the previous owner just didn’t want to purchase another cell so they converted to Chlorine. Due to the run on Clorox with COVID-19, combined with the fact that I travel fairly often and am looking for an easier way to maintain my pool, I would like to transition the pool back to salt water.

Below are pictures of my equipment. I have a ~10k gallon pool, made from old school pebbletec (I’m running chlorine tablets now because Clorox is tough to find-not optimal I know!). I have 2 pumps-one for the filter and another for the waterfall and in ground cleaning system. Do you see any glaring issues with the current SWG? There are green lights so I know it’s getting power. I have the Jandy aqualinks RS and I can control the SWG from the control pad in the house. I believe all I need to do buy another salt cell (I’m looking at the Hayward T-15 on Amazon-supposedly it’s good for up to a 40k gal pool, which I heard is good since I won’t have to run it as hard and it should last longer with my smaller pool) and turn it on?

What else do I need to do to convert to salt? I know I have to buy a salt bag from Home Depot. How much salt do I add to my pool to get things started? Do I just dump the salt in the middle of the pool and turn the pump on? As you can see I am a noob with this stuff, so just looking for a little advice before I jump in.

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you see any glaring issues with the current SWG? There are green lights so I know it’s getting power. I have the Jandy aqualinks RS and I can control the SWG from the control pad in the house. I believe all I need to do buy another salt cell (I’m looking at the Hayward T-15 on Amazon-supposedly it’s good for up to a 40k gal pool, which I heard is good since I won’t have to run it as hard and it should last longer with my smaller pool) and turn it on?

Looks like you have a rebranded Hayward Aquarite system. The T-cells come in various generating capacities. The specific T-cell being used needs to be set in the control panel for proper operation.

Assuming all is good in your control box electronics then a new cell may get it generating.

I don't think your Aqualink will control the SWG panel. You will need to make adjustments to the SWG from the outside panel.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

What else do I need to do to convert to salt? I know I have to buy a salt bag from Home Depot. How much salt do I add to my pool to get things started? Do I just dump the salt in the middle of the pool and turn the pump on?

You need to get a salt test kit. Preferably the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test or Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek

The SWG needs around 3000ppm of salt. That is about 250 lbs of salt in 10,000 gallons. 6 to 7 40lb bags of pool salt.

You should test your salt level before you begin adding salt because pool water can accumulate salt from other chemicals and you can have 500ppm to 1,000 ppm or more of salt to start with. The only way to reduce salt is by draining out water so you do not want to overshoot your target salt level. Add salt in a few doses and test in between.

When you add salt the SWG should be powered off, pump on, brush the salt around on the bottom of the pool for it to dissolve, keep pump running for 24 hours before you test salt level. If you have a good salt level then power on the SWG.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

Rebalance your water chemistry for the SWG...

Water Balance for SWGs

Saltwater pools are becoming more and more popular. We discuss How salt generators work and water balance tips for SWGs to run them.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
Allen has you well on the way with your SWCG.
For your information, Clorox bleach is not a good product to use for chlorination purposes.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Jimrahbe]

77,

If this were my pool I would start off with a new SWCG system. I say this because you do not really know if the control unit is working or not. What happens if you install a new cell and it does not work? Is it because the cell does not match ,or is it the control system, or something else..

I am not much of a fan of mix and match and try to patch.

I would "assume" that the device just before the cell is some type of mineral canister, but I really have no idea what it is..

Let's see of James has an info... Calling @JamesW

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What are the diagnostic readings from the box.

 

[Shark77]

Welcome to TFP.



Looks like you have a rebranded Hayward Aquarite system. The T-cells come in various generating capacities. The specific T-cell being used needs to be set in the control panel for proper operation.

Assuming all is good in your control box electronics then a new cell may get it generating.

I don't think your Aqualink will control the SWG panel. You will need to make adjustments to the SWG from the outside panel.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You need to get a salt test kit. Preferably the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test or Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek

The SWG needs around 3000ppm of salt. That is about 250 lbs of salt in 10,000 gallons. 6 to 7 40lb bags of pool salt.

You should test your salt level before you begin adding salt because pool water can accumulate salt from other chemicals and you can have 500ppm to 1,000 ppm or more of salt to start with. The only way to reduce salt is by draining out water so you do not want to overshoot your target salt level. Add salt in a few doses and test in between.

When you add salt the SWG should be powered off, pump on, brush the salt around on the bottom of the pool for it to dissolve, keep pump running for 24 hours before you test salt level. If you have a good salt level then power on the SWG.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

Rebalance your water chemistry for the SWG...

Water Balance for SWGs

Saltwater pools are becoming more and more popular. We discuss How salt generators work and water balance tips for SWGs to run them.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for the info-I just purchased the K-1766 salt water test kit!

 

[Shark77]

77,

If this were my pool I would start off with a new SWCG system. I say this because you do not really know if the control unit is working or not. What happens if you install a new cell and it does not work? Is it because the cell does not match ,or is it the control system, or something else..

I am not much of a fan of mix and match and try to patch.

I would "assume" that the device just before the cell is some type of mineral canister, but I really have no idea what it is..

Let's see of James has an info... Calling @JamesW

Thanks,

Jim R.

I have been considering that option as well. I don’t want to spend $600 on a cell just to find out it doesn’t work. If I was to upgrade I feel like there are several pieces of equipment I should just remove from my setup because I have no idea what they do (like that mineral deposit thing and the box that says H2O by design next to the chlorination control box). It seems like lots of people are going with the RJ-30? I would also like the option of monitoring the pool from my phone, but I guess that would require upgrading my AqualinksRS which may be more work than I want to bite off.

 

[Shark77]

Welcome to the forum!
Allen has you well on the way with your SWCG.
For your information, Clorox bleach is not a good product to use for chlorination purposes.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Thanks.

 

[Shark77]

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What are the diagnostic readings from the box.

The cell is really faded. But the number I read from the cell is *5E0402-2030. Not sure if that is what you are looking for, but I’ve posted a picture below as well. I think the box serial number is 5A0404-1016989.

For the diagnostics I get a green power and AqualinksRS light. I get a red steady “test salt level” light and an orange “inspect cell” light. All those make sense so I think the control head seems like it’s working-would you agree? Maybe all I need is a new cell?

 

[setsailsoon]

I have been considering that option as well. I don’t want to spend $600 on a cell just to find out it doesn’t work. If I was to upgrade I feel like there are several pieces of equipment I should just remove from my setup because I have no idea what they do (like that mineral deposit thing and the box that says H2O by design next to the chlorination control box). It seems like lots of people are going with the RJ-30? I would also like the option of monitoring the pool from my phone, but I guess that would require upgrading my AqualinksRS which may be more work than I want to bite off.

Good points you make. See if Allen or James can walk you through the diagnostics on your system so you will know if the controller has bit the dust before you replace just the cell. If it still works consider a 3rd party replacement in your decision process. Good things to evaluate whether it's a new cell or a new system are:

• $/Lb chlorine production
• Warranty, cells do still have manufacturing defects that don't show for a year or more
• Reputation here
• Reviews

Yes, the easiest way to do remote app control is to add iAqualink 2.0 to your system. If you go with 3rd party or cell replacement you'll only have run time control but my experience is that's fine. Once you get dialed in on your settings it's rare that you have to change % power.

Good luck to you!

Chris

PS you're gonna love your salt pool, wife will like even it more than you do!

 

[JamesW]

The 04 in the serial number means 2004. So, 16 years old. Press the little black button by the display and report the readings.

 

[Shark77]

The 04 in the serial number means 2004. So, 16 years old. Press the little black button by the display and report the readings.

I’m new to this, so thanks for the help. Just googled the diagnostics decoder and here are my readings:

Temp: 77
Cell Voltage: 31.3
Cell Amperage: 0
Desired Output: SSP (no idea what this means)
Instantaneous Salt Level: 0
Prgm Code: AL-0
Circuit Board Revision: r1.32
Avg Salt Level:0

So what do you think-is this still usable? Would you recommend updating to the newer control box?

 

[wireform]

I'm no expert but not sure that r1.32 can handle the T-15 cell. That may also add to the trouble.

 

[JamesW]

I suspect that a new T-15 cell would work. The original cell was a T-15, so it should work.

The readings look good.

The only thing that might go wrong with the power supply is the thermistor, which is easy to replace if you know how to solder.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ametherm/SL32%202R025/570-1062-ND/363379

Get 3 or 4 in case you need them.

 

[wireform]

Shark, I sent you a PM.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The Ultrapure box is an ozone generator. Does the plastic tube from the top of unit go into the plumbing somewhere ? There should be a Venturi tube in the plumbing. Not super important. If the ozone system hasn’t been serviced in or used in years, then it is likely dead and not producing any ozone. You don’t need ozone in a properly clean and clear pool so it can be removed and capped off.

 

[Shark77]

I suspect that a new T-15 cell would work. The original cell was a T-15, so it should work.

The readings look good.

The only thing that might go wrong with the power supply is the thermistor, which is easy to replace if you know how to solder.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ametherm/SL32%202R025/570-1062-ND/363379

Get 3 or 4 in case you need them.

Thanks so much for the info. Given that my control box looks good I’m just going to replace the cell. I’m planning on going with a salt solutions refurbished T-15, so I’ll report back with an update once I get that in. It’s been a while since I’ve soldered, so I’ll go through a youtube refresher if I need to replace the thermistor. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Shark77]

The Ultrapure box is an ozone generator. Does the plastic tube from the top of unit go into the plumbing somewhere ? There should be a Venturi tube in the plumbing. Not super important. If the ozone system hasn’t been serviced in or used in years, then it is likely dead and not producing any ozone. You don’t need ozone in a properly clean and clear pool so it can be removed and capped off.

Thanks for the info. I read about the ozone generation system and it seems like it is a nice to have, but definitely not required. I posted another picture of the tube you referenced in your post-I assume this thing in the ground that it plugs into is the venturi? It probably plugs into the PVC as the water is going toward the filter? If I did want to get this thing working again Injust replace the cartridge in the aqua pure box?

 

[mknauss]

I read about the ozone generation system and it seems like it is a nice to have,

Ozone Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JamesW]

In my opinion, ozone is counterproductive for an outdoor residential pool. It destroys chlorine. I would remove it.