reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
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- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Pool Is Green With High Chlorine Reading
- Thread starter jonathan8610
- Start date
I added the DE to the sand filter through the skimmer following the directions from the site. However, after adding almost 2 cups of DE the PSI had barely increased. I don't believe I have an issue with the filter gauge since it goes to 0 when off and reads normal when filtering. Could I have an issue with the sand filter? I'm going to let it run to see if it works at all, but I found that odd.
Before I started the SLAM process I had to change the gasket of my multi port valve due to leaking from backwash line. I didn't mention that at first because I didn't think much of it but not sure if I am experiencing an issue from that. I felt the sand filter was functioning properly but I don't recall a start up for me that has taken this long so I'm trying to think of everyone that could be causing it.
Just to update PSI has risen by 5% since adding the DE, so not as much as I anticipated but it is at least risen so I don't believe the filter has a problem. The Metal Magic has arrived and I was planning on when to add it. I passed the OCLT and pool clarity is very good besides being light green so at this point I am operating under the assumption of metals in the water. I mentioned before that they recommend adding it when FC is at 1-3 ppm but based on my CYA, I need to keep the pool around 5-7. It doesn't seem like a huge difference but I didn't know if that would be high enough that it would interfere with the way the sequestrant works and nullify it at all. Thoughts?
reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
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Here’s an update on how pool looks, looks very clear but bright green. Waiting for chlorine to come down before testing pH and starting Metal Magic treatment
Last edited:
I spoke with someone at ProTeam who recommended I abide by the directions on the bottle and let FC drop to 1-3 ppm. He said you basically want as little chlorine in the pool as possible. I tested this morning and I was at 8 FC, but I am just above my current target range of 5-7 based on 40 CTA. I don't want to let my FC drop below the min level but I also don't want it to be high enough that the Metal Magic won't work. Thoughts on best strategy here?
I wanted to update here. I ended up letting the FC drop and then applied Metal Magic which turned the pool completely blue but cloudy. I was attempting to keep my pool around 3-5ppm FC but every time I added a bit of chlorine, a few hours later the water would turn green again. So now I’m shifting my focus back to trying to remove the metal from the water. I added some more Polyfill yesterday and this is how it looks. Does this look like iron? I will keep doing that but anything else I can do in addition to? The pool is cloudy but I think it’s from the MM. I passed an OCLT and my CC is 0.5. PH was 7.0 (completely yellow) so I’ll need to bring that up. There’s also these specks that no matter how much I filter it seems to be on the surface of the pool (not sure what it is - maybe pollen).
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reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
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I wasn't sure if it was pollen/other debris or iron. I noticed the skimmer sock was a rust color as well - is that helping catch anything or just stained from the iron? Outside of rigging a 5gal bucket into a makeshift Polyfil filter (not sure if that is preferred vs stuffing the skimmer basket), anything else I can do to help along the process?
My pH is on the low side (I assume the MM lowered the pH but I may be wrong), in order to filter out the iron as best as possible, is there an optimal spot the pH should be at?
reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
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Anything that sticks to the skimmer sock or polyfill is iron that's being removed from water.
Not sure about optimal pH for iron to precipitate. @JoyfulNoise - any ideas for this situation?
Not sure about optimal pH for iron to precipitate. @JoyfulNoise - any ideas for this situation?
I think my pH is 7.0 but very well could be lower (completely yellow in the test). I am buying some 20 Mule Team Borax today to increase it to 7.4 (unless anyone thinks its best to keep pH low during the iron removal process). Not sure if low pH is making the metal scaling problem worse by potentially corroding the pool pump or not.
reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
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- May 3, 2014
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
High pH precipitates iron. But if you are trapping it currently, I would not change anything.
Thank you. My only concern was my pH is very low (pure yellow color on the test which looks like 7.0 but could be lower). I had some concern that if it is very low that it could be damaging my pool pump and potentially releasing metals in the water from corrosion, so I wanted to bring it up to at least 7.2.
I was planning on bringing a few samples of my water (from pool and house) to my local pool store to test for metals to try and isolate where the metals may be coming from (water or pump) and if it is iron or iron + copper because the pool is now a bright green.
I took this picture of the skimmer sock from last night (is this just debris/pollen or iron?)
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- Jun 1, 2018
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Just catching back up - no notifications for some reason.
Definitely looking better
I feel I should have mentioned this before as this has taken quite a while, but the more polyfill surface area the better.
This is why the bucket method is so helpful. You could also enlist a submersible pump in the fight as well since you really just need a way to run more water through more poly fill.
See
www.troublefreepool.com
Are you backwashing & noticing iron tinged waste water?
I just ordered some cellulose fiber to try this go round since I ran out of DE. Some folks have good results with it when it comes to catching more iron. Time will tell I suppose.
Definitely looking better
I feel I should have mentioned this before as this has taken quite a while, but the more polyfill surface area the better.
This is why the bucket method is so helpful. You could also enlist a submersible pump in the fight as well since you really just need a way to run more water through more poly fill.
See
If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it
EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green...
www.troublefreepool.com
Are you backwashing & noticing iron tinged waste water?
I just ordered some cellulose fiber to try this go round since I ran out of DE. Some folks have good results with it when it comes to catching more iron. Time will tell I suppose.