Plumbing questions from a rookie

[wgipe]

Happy Saturday!

Our new pool gets underway on Monday, and I'll be responsible for plumbing the pad and setting up the equipment (my request, because I'm a perfectionist, and want it set up in an ideal way). Note that I've listed all my equipment in my signature. A few questions:

1.) I am planning to use Pentair 263029 valves everywhere based on the reading I've done here. I will have two skimmers, which I'll run 2" to, but were unfortunately ordered with 1.5" outlets. I plan to just reduce the suction line to 1.5 right at the skimmer. My question is this: Should I do a 3-way valve on those and then go into the suction side of the pump, or am I better off to have individual valves and tie them together after the valves? I'm not sure how those 3-ways are configured, and if they would allow mixing between the skimmers, or if it would only be on/off so that only one skimmer would be selected at a time.

2.) I also plan to have a valve on each return. Are there other places I should consider installing valves?

2.) I plan to run 2" to each return, then reduce to 1.5 at the eyeball. Is this overkill?

3.) Pool equipment will be located inside a 12x16 pool house with a concrete floor. I see cautions on not pouring concrete around the PVC where it goes into the ground when a simple pad is used so as to avoid breaking the pipes if the pad moves from freezing./thawing (an issue for sure here in Ohio). Should I consider forming out a section of the floor to keep in gravel to avoid that, or is that not a concern given that this will be a full pad that the pool house will sit on? It would be easy enough to do.

4.) I plan to install things in the following order: skimmers - pump - filter - anode - heater - salt cell (vertical mount, at least 3' of pipe between heater and cell) - flow meter - returns. Does that sound right? Where in that sequence should check valve(s) be?

Anything else you'd advise me to consider or keep in mind?

Thanks so much - I can't imagine going through this process for the first time without this forum.

Wes

 

[wgipe]

Wondering if @ajw22 or @duraleigh might have advice here as well? I did read up on the links you posted on my other question, and found them super helpful.

 

[ajw22]

1.) I am planning to use Pentair 263029 valves everywhere based on the reading I've done here. I will have two skimmers, which I'll run 2" to, but were unfortunately ordered with 1.5" outlets. I plan to just reduce the suction line to 1.5 right at the skimmer. My question is this: Should I do a 3-way valve on those and then go into the suction side of the pump, or am I better off to have individual valves and tie them together after the valves? I'm not sure how those 3-ways are configured, and if they would allow mixing between the skimmers, or if it would only be on/off so that only one skimmer would be selected at a time.

Either way accomplishes the same. You are going to T the two skimmers into the pump suction. The 3 way valve can form the T. Or you can put a 2 way valve on each line and use a T fitting to join the pipes.

The 3 way valve lets you balance the flow between both skimmers or block either skimmer pipe to turn one oft hem off. The 3 way valve will also let you block the suction intake to the pump to stop water flow when youw ork on the pump.

2.) I also plan to have a valve on each return. Are there other places I should consider installing valves?

Install a heater bypass - Heater Bypass - Further Reading

2.) I plan to run 2" to each return, then reduce to 1.5 at the eyeball. Is this overkill?

That works fine.

3.) Pool equipment will be located inside a 12x16 pool house with a concrete floor. I see cautions on not pouring concrete around the PVC where it goes into the ground when a simple pad is used so as to avoid breaking the pipes if the pad moves from freezing./thawing (an issue for sure here in Ohio). Should I consider forming out a section of the floor to keep in gravel to avoid that, or is that not a concern given that this will be a full pad that the pool house will sit on? It would be easy enough to do.

The other concern is if you have a leak in a pipe where it is under the concrete floor. I would bring all the pipes up by the side of the wall and leave the pipes in gravel. The more access you leave for the plumbing the easier thinsg will be long term.

You putting a drain in the floor of the pool house? Working on pool equipment can get very wet at times. And thinsg will spring a leak ocassionally and flood the pool house. How will water on the pool house floor drain?

4.) I plan to install things in the following order: skimmers - pump - filter - anode - heater - salt cell (vertical mount, at least 3' of pipe between heater and cell) - flow meter - returns. Does that sound right? Where in that sequence should check valve(s) be?

You should no spa and no tablet chlorinator and should not need any check valves unless your pool pad is a significant elevation change from the pool. The heater bypass will use a check valve though.

Anything else you'd advise me to consider or keep in mind?

You are in OH and will likely be winterizing your pool. Plan how you are going to blow out all your lines and winterize your equipment. You want unions to provide access to equipment and valves to air lock all lines.

Use pump unions to connect your pump. Your filter, heater, and SWG will come with unions.

 

[wgipe]

The 3 way valve can form the T

I'll think I will go with a 3-way then to keep things simple.

Install a heater bypass

I saw this referenced in the manual, but only for really high flow. I now see why I'd want one regardless. I'll do that, and see I will need a check valve for that as you suggest.

The other concern is if you have a leak in a pipe where it is under the concrete floor. I would bring all the pipes up by the side of the wall and leave the pipes in gravel. The more access you leave for the plumbing the easier thinsg will be long term.

I'll do just that.

You putting a drain in the floor of the pool house?

Definitely planning on a drain.

You should no spa and no tablet chlorinator

Correct, but I do have a SWG. Should I install a check valve between the heater and SWG, or is that unnecessary?

Use pump unions to connect your pump. Your filter, heater, and SWG will come with unions.

Thanks. I'm putting unions on everything - I want it to be as easy to maintain as possible.

I sure appreciate all of the advice. You are a saint.

Wes

 

[ajw22]

It is unnecessary to have a check valve between the heater and the SWG. When the pump is off there is nothing corrosive from the SWG.

And your heater bypass CV will be at the output of the heater anyway.

 

[wgipe]

It is unnecessary to have a check valve between the heater and the SWG. When the pump is off there is nothing corrosive from the SWG.

And your heater bypass CV will be at the output of the heater anyway.

Makes total sense. Thank you.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Wes,

The idea that you don't want pipes coming up through a concrete floor has little to do with breaking during a freeze and everything to do with modifications or repairs later in life.

My pool equipment is inside a pool shed.. The entire shed has a concrete floor except where the equipment sits. The equipment pad sits on an island of gravel/rocks, about 18" deep. The plumbing comes up through the gravel.. The gravel is also where any water goes when I do maintenance on the filter or the pump. There is no actual drain back to the sewer..

The pool at my house was built by a pool builder and has 3-way valves for all the intake lines... If I were to do it over I would have one 2-way valve for each line instead. It is not a major issue, but I feel that individual 2-way valves would give me better control...

Why do you think you need a flow meter??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wgipe]

Thanks, @Jimrahbe, for your detailed response. I think I will plan to do exactly what you are proposing so as to make sure I can get to things again if needed. I also thought I would go ahead and run a spare line with the skimmer lines as well as the return lines - but just cap them off shortly after they come out from under the slab. It would only cost a few dollars, and would save a ton of digging and cursing later in the event one of those lines had an issue.

As for the flow meter, that's mostly just a geek thing. I read where you can really dial in the RPMs on the pump to the optimal level if you've got an accurate flow meter, and that the pump flow meters are not very accurate, so I bought it just to find out. If there's a reason I shouldn't install it, I'd certainly be all ears.

Thanks again,

Wes

 

[Jimrahbe]

Wes,

No real reason.. I just have never found the "need" for one.. Which is different than just wanting one...

I suspect, just like a check valve it will add a little back pressure to the system, but I would assume not much.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wgipe]

Mostly, it’s just a reminder that I need to get this pool done. The longer it goes, the more toys I end up with...

Their site shows: Head Loss (Model FV-C) ................. 0.77 psi at 20 GPM, 2.37 psi at 112.6 GPM

Doesn't seem terrible.