Pad Plumbing Redo

[Psych]

Howdy all,

I posted not too long ago to get some recommendations on VS pumps. Since then, I've purchased the Calimar 3 HP VS pump & Circpool Universal 40 for my 15k gallon pool (based on opinions to oversize). After looking at the work I would have to do, I decided to tear everything out, including the concrete pad itself, and start from scratch. The 90's right behind the filter seem largely unnecessary and maybe from another time. I'm starting with the aforementioned parts and reusing my old Hayward C900. I'm sure I could go larger, but it still works.

I felt pretty confident when I started tearing it all down, but that feeling quickly faded when I looked at where the concrete pad used to be and the amount of pvc that now litters my driveway. Fortunately, it's "winter" here in Central FL and my pool is still filling from a recent vinyl liner replacement. All that to say, I have some time to plan out the plumbing and do it right. I'm starting with a bare concrete pad. About 29'' wide by 70'' long. I brought the new one as close as I dared to the in/out lines to the pool while still leaving a bit of space in front of them.

While I would greatly appreciate some advice in plumbing this setup (or was it fine before?), I do have some specific questions.

- How do I determine what size pipe is needed to go from diverter valve to pump? I have 1.5 inch lines coming into the diverter valve and my old pump takes 1.5 so I assumed it should be 1.5 out of the valve, but the diameter seems too large at just over 2 1/4 inches OD. This makes me think I would be ok to put 2'' in in there. Am I right?
- How much space is actually needed from the valve to the pump. Right now, if I push the pump as far back as possible. I'm looking at ~ 9 inches. I know the recommended size is double the diameter of pipe, but I don't think that will happen here. It certainly wasn't before.
- I purchased these for the pump largely based on the advice of this forum. I think it should work.
- If I keep the same layout, can I just throw a 90 in behind the filter and then another to bring it back towards the front? Seems like some tight turns in a short space. I marked up the "Old_Pad" picture to demonstrate how I envision it. I'm just not sure that's the best way.
- Currently I plan on putting the chlorine generator in the same run as my old feeder assuming my old layout. This is after the filter and pump as recommended so I should be good there.
- Is the purchase of a flow meter recommended to dial in the pump, or should I just run as long as needed to keep the pool clean/chlorine levels up?

I'll be looking into the recommended test kits here and start trying to learn how to do this myself instead of relying on the local Pinch A Penny. As a brief aside, I actually didn't mind the store but every week was a new chemical that seemed to contradict what they sold me the previous week. One week, low PH. Next week, too high so buy some acid. It felt like I was always correcting and chasing a perfect number.

Thanks again to all out there who have made this forum a wealth of information. I learned a lot just buy searching. Off to pool school soon.

 

[Texas Splash]

Working with a clean slate is great. I did that myself a couple months ago as I was tired of the tiny pre-fab pad that was originally installed. You can see my before & after pics below. I went "Texas Big" because IMO you can never have too much pad space. It just makes maintenance and cleaning much easier, not to mention plumbing space for future repairs. So if you can have a larger pad, go for it.

That said, to address some of your questions:
- The difference between 2" and 1.5" pipe at the pad will probably be insignificant. Just go with whatever works best for you to get everything to connect properly. In my case, I have 2" plumbing from the skimmer to the pad, but my pump uses a 1.5" fitting so .......
- While a 2 or 3-way valve can be positioned fairly close to a pump, I would encourage trying to leave at least a foot or so. You never know if/when you may need to separate the pump from that suction line, so space is nice. Or you may chose to install a union between the valve and pump.
- An additional 90 degree (or two) isn't a deal breaker.
We have members who have flow meters, but unless you have some crazy set-up or specific need to monitor such flow, I don't see a need to install one. It's just something else that could go wrong later.

Hope that helps.

ORIGINAL INSTALL

TODAY

 

[HermanTX]

How do I determine what size pipe is needed to go from diverter valve to pump? I have 1.5 inch lines coming into the diverter valve and my old pump takes 1.5 so I assumed it should be 1.5 out of the valve, but the diameter seems too large at just over 2 1/4 inches OD. This makes me think I would be ok to put 2'' in in there. Am I right?

Use 1.5" pipe and if needed have a 2" x 1.5" transition fitting. The Jandy type 3 way valve is usually set up for 2 sizes - for example, the 1.5" will fit inside the valve housing or can put a 2" coupling over it and use 2" pipe.

How much space is actually needed from the valve to the pump. Right now, if I push the pump as far back as possible. I'm looking at ~ 9 inches. I know the recommended size is double the diameter of pipe, but I don't think that will happen here. It certainly wasn't before.

The recommendation for the straight before a pump is hard to achieve in many set ups. If you can have 9 inches then that is fine - better than most. Try to have more than 4 inches to allow for any future change/repair and ensure you use unions on both sides of pump. Make sure you can access the electrical connections at back of pump.

If I keep the same layout, can I just throw a 90 in behind the filter and then another to bring it back towards the front? Seems like some tight turns in a short space. I marked up the "Old_Pad" picture to demonstrate how I envision it. I'm just not sure that's the best way.

that is fine. Seems like there was a repair or some other piping that caused that tight U which is not needed.
Keep that tee and valve before the filter as your drain line. Good to have.

Currently I plan on putting the chlorine generator in the same run as my old feeder assuming my old layout. This is after the filter and pump as recommended so I should be good there.

that will be fine

Is the purchase of a flow meter recommended to dial in the pump, or should I just run as long as needed to keep the pool clean/chlorine levels up?

This is not required. I have one when I redid some plumbing but I really do not use it. I was just curious as to flowrate at different RPMs for the pump so I put one in. You will "dial in" the pump based on what RPM is required to maintain the SWCG on. Once you know the minimum rpm to keep it running that will be your default pump speed and then only increase it for improved skimming or running a suction vacuum (you do not appear to have one).

I'll be looking into the recommended test kits here and start trying to learn how to do this myself instead of relying on the local Pinch A Penny.

Consider the link for best test kits. Pinch a Penny is great for supply of liquid chlorine because of their storage tank onsite. Do not trust their testing.
Test Kits Compared

 

[ajw22]

Don’t back up your pump too close to a wall where you cannot access the electrical wiring or pull off the motor.

 

[Psych]

Thank you for the replies. It looks like I'm on the right track here.

Working with a clean slate is great. I did that myself a couple months ago as I was tired of the tiny pre-fab pad that was originally installed. You can see my before & after pics below. I went "Texas Big" because IMO you can never have too much pad space. It just makes maintenance and cleaning much easier, not to mention plumbing space for future repairs. So if you can have a larger pad, go for it.

That said, to address some of your questions:
- The difference between 2" and 1.5" pipe at the pad will probably be insignificant. Just go with whatever works best for you to get everything to connect properly. In my case, I have 2" plumbing from the skimmer to the pad, but my pump uses a 1.5" fitting so .......
- While a 2 or 3-way valve can be positioned fairly close to a pump, I would encourage trying to leave at least a foot or so. You never know if/when you may need to separate the pump from that suction line, so space is nice. Or you may chose to install a union between the valve and pump.
- An additional 90 degree (or two) isn't a deal breaker.
We have members who have flow meters, but unless you have some crazy set-up or specific need to monitor such flow, I don't see a need to install one. It's just something else that could go wrong later.

Hope that helps.

I absolutely love how large you went. I extended my pad much longer than it was, but I'm not in the mood to mess with any plumbing below ground level. At least not until I have to. I think I'm the opposite as you, I have 1.5 out of the ground and all new equipment has 2 inch fittings. Would the union I linked above do the trick here? It installs right onto the pump.

Use 1.5" pipe and if needed have a 2" x 1.5" transition fitting. The Jandy type 3 way valve is usually set up for 2 sizes - for example, the 1.5" will fit inside the valve housing or can put a 2" coupling over it and use 2" pipe.

Thank you. I think I'm a little bit confused here. I currently have 1.5 inch pipes coming in from what I assume are my skimmer and main drain. I think the side of the valve that leads to the pool should accommodate 2 inches. Is it the case that it can do both just depending on how I run it? I think I would choose to toss in a coupling because the new pump is two inch fitting.

Don’t back up your pump too close to a wall where you cannot access the electrical wiring or pull off the motor.

Honestly, I would have done exactly this and potentially screwed myself later.

Since it seems like I'm on the right track plumbing wise (but please continue to dispense wisdom!), I want to ask about installation of a surge protector. I figure while I'm here, do it right. I currently have 220 coming from the house, through a disconnect, and into a T104 series timer (T1004, I believe - but I removed the transformer since it went to a now dead light). I'm going to follow the recommended advice I've seen on here of wiring the pump to terminals 1&3 and the SWCG to 2&4. Where in this circuit should the surge protector be wired in? I'm assuming before the disconnect? Would something like this work for me? I kind of just found it during one of my many searches of this forum but it sounds like it would work.