Freezing weather coming...and water feature pump is leaking

[pd22]

Hello there!

Despite telling my pool builder in November that my water feature pump (Jandy 1.5 HP VS Flo Pro Pump) is leaking due to a poor/malfunctioning back plate, the pump has not been repaired. We are about to have a 3-day long freeze in Texas, and I am not excited about leaking water freezing on the equipment pad and potentially causing a minor leak to turn into a larger issue.

I will cover the equipment with a frost cloth/insulated blanket. I have been advised a warming light would also be helpful but I do not know what type of warming light might be safe to use under a blanket for 72 straight hours.

Any tips on how to plan to avoid a major incident here?

Our equipment pad is slightly below pool level (maybe 3-6 inches). If a pipe breaks, will water just exit the pool until it reaches equipment level? I realize I should know the physics of this by now, but I am not too proud to admit ignorance.

Thanks TFP!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! For a warming light, a regular incandescent lamp/bulb safely placed underneath away from moisture should provide enough heat to take the "sting" off of the cold. You have the right idea to just shut everything off prior to the freeze dropping-in since you have a small leak already. Draining everything (really well) prior to the freeze should suffice, but in your case, with the pad lower than the waterline, you'll need to shut-off water flow back to the pad. You might close a 3-way valve and that should work. The insulated blanket is a good choice.

 

[GMTK]

Others smarter than me will chime in (hopefully). I'm in a similar situation this weekend (I'm in San Antonio). My waterfall pump is on it's own circuit and when freeze protection kicks on for the main pump, it does NOT kick on the waterfall pump. So my plan at this point is to just run it all night long. I hate to waste electricity but it's cheaper than a busted pipe or pump. There is a way to drain the pump, two little black wing nuts; but my preference is to run it if it's going to freeze. If you are not going to run it, drain it then cover with a bunch of towels and blankets then a tarp on top. This is what I did during URI and it worked out fine. I don't like using heat lamps under towels for a fear of fire. They also make a cord, that looks like a regular extension cord, that is headed that you could try.

Frost King 3 ft. Electric Heat Cable HC3A - The Home Depot

The Thermwell Products 3 ft. Electric Heat Cable is designed to help keep water flowing down to minus 40F through metal or plastic water pipes. This cable comes pre-assembled for a fast installation and

www.homedepot.com

 

[Texas Splash]

If you have more questions or need more feedback, consider posting some pics of your equipment pad. That might help with replies.

 

[Newdude]

Our equipment pad is slightly below pool level (maybe 3-6 inches). If a pipe breaks, will water just exit the pool until it reaches equipment level?

It depends where the break is in relation to the pool level. If the pipe above the pump breaks (etc)n also above the pool level, it won't drain at all. If it breaks near the ground then the pool will self level to that height.

If you can find old skool light bulbs, they work great under a makeshift tent. They won't make it 85 under there but it only needs to be mid 30s and they'll do just fine for that.

 

[pd22]

Thanks for the replies so far. Given that this is "just" a pump for a water feature, I am inclined to let the freeze protect run and just do what I can to ensure the leaking water does not freeze.

I have attached pictures of the equipment (which I should have done originally!). The pump in question is circled in red.

Looking at other posts on TFP, it appears that because my equipment is below the water level, I *should* have valves that can be closed to prevent water from exiting the pool during winterizing? Or are my Jandy actuator valves sufficient for that purpose?

 

[pd22]

... They also make a cord, that looks like a regular extension cord, that is headed that you could try.

Frost King 3 ft. Electric Heat Cable HC3A - The Home Depot

The Thermwell Products 3 ft. Electric Heat Cable is designed to help keep water flowing down to minus 40F through metal or plastic water pipes. This cable comes pre-assembled for a fast installation and

www.homedepot.com

This is very cool. It seems like something like this would work quite well. Thank you for the idea!

 

[Texas Splash]

Or are my Jandy actuator valves sufficient for that purpose?

Looks like you have one actuator in front of the main pump which is for spa suction I'm assuming. When in the closed position, it should prevent spa water from flowing downward towards the pad. You also have a couple manual 3-way valves that look like they control water from the skimmers, so those would need to be in the closed position as well to completely isolate the pad from water flowing towards it.

 

[pd22]

Looks like you have one actuator in front of the main pump which is for spa suction I'm assuming. When in the closed position, it should prevent spa water from flowing downward towards the pad. You also have a couple manual 3-way valves that look like they control water from the skimmers, so those would need to be in the closed position as well to completely isolate the pad from water flowing towards it.

Thank you again for the help and education today.

I will actually be out of town Saturday and Sunday when the freezing temperatures first hit, so on the off chance there is a power outage on those days, I feel as if draining the equipment would be the safest thing to do. But that raises questions as I've never done it before.

I feel as if I have a general understanding of what to do based on other posts you've helpfully given others over the years:
- turn off the breaker
- drain all pumps, filter, and heater of water
- remove the skimmer basket and place either a cut-up pool noodle in the skimmer or a bottle/jug

I suppose my main question is, with my equipment being below the pool line, the pool itself will drain down the the level of he pipes, yes? If that takes the pool down a few inches below the waterline tile for several days, is that problematic?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Texas Splash]

I suppose my main question is, with my equipment being below the pool line, the pool itself will drain down the the level of he pipes, yes? If that takes the pool down a few inches below the waterline tile for several days, is that problematic?

If you close the 3-way and spa actuator valves, no water should leave the pool via the pad. The suction line(s) should remain full up to the valves. But in the slim chance something happened and your water level did drop a bit to expose some tiles, it should be fine. Tiles get tricky in freezing climates when water seeps behind them causing expansion at which point a tile can get loose or pop off. I don't think you should have that problem.

 

[wireform]

For the feature pump I'd recommend you unscrew both unions and push the pump aside to make room for the next step. Then with a shop vac blow from both pipes until no water exits then remove the 2 drain plugs on the pump and let that gravity drain and call it done. Then do what's recommended for your main system.

 

[pd22]

If you close the 3-way and spa actuator valves, no water should leave the pool via the pad. The suction line(s) should remain full up to the valves. But in the slim chance something happened and your water level did drop a bit to expose some tiles, it should be fine. Tiles get tricky in freezing climates when water seeps behind them causing expansion at which point a tile can get loose or pop off. I don't think you should have that problem.

Roger. Thank you!

 

[GMTK]

Another trick I just learned - if you have old school christmas lights still out - run those around the pump/pipes and plug them in on a time. They won't get super hot but put out just enough heat to keep things from freezing.

 

[pd22]

For the feature pump I'd recommend you unscrew both unions and push the pump aside to make room for the next step. Then with a shop vac blow from both pipes until no water exits then remove the 2 drain plugs on the pump and let that gravity drain and call it done. Then do what's recommended for your main system.

I must be honest and say that I do not totally understand this advice. You are saying to unscrew the pvc from the pump and then blow the water sitting in the pvc pipes back through? If my water feature pump is below the pool level, is that necessary?

The pool builder said they were going to fix the leaky water pump today, but no sign of them yet. Deciding whether to (1) keep freeze protect on and put a heating cord around the pump or (2) drain the equipment and hope I do it correctly.

 

[Texas Splash]

I do not totally understand this advice.

The concept there is that if you elect to shut the system down and drain the equipment at the pad, it would be advisable to also "try" to remove as much water from the plumbing above the ground as possible to reduce the likelihood of freeze expansion. Removing unions is often times a good way to gain access to blow or vacuum water. Since your pad is lower than the pool, we expect 3-way and actuator valves to be closed to isolate the pad, but anything on the pad itself you would want to remove as much water as possible to be safe. Hope that makes sense.

Of course if the system is running continuously this wont matter.

 

[pd22]

The concept there is that if you elect to shut the system down and drain the equipment at the pad, it would be advisable to also "try" to remove as much water from the plumbing above the ground as possible to reduce the likelihood of freeze expansion. Removing unions is often times a good way to gain access to blow or vacuum water. Since your pad is lower than the pool, we expect 3-way and actuator valves to be closed to isolate the pad, but anything on the pad itself you would want to remove as much water as possible to be safe. Hope that makes sense.

Of course if the system is running continuously this wont matter.

While the main pump (at build) and the cooler (as of a month ago) have valves to stop water from emptying out of the pool, the water feature pump does not. The pool tech today said that if we allowed the water feature pump to empty, that would lower the level of the pool down to where the water features take water from the pool (far below the tile line). Still not completely understanding the physics of water tables (I must have zoned out on that topic in science class, and I suck in science anyway), I didn't question what he said. We'll just run freeze protect, and if something goes awry, at least I have a good record of a back and forth between myself and the pool builder.

Thanks again for the responses and the information in this thread. It has been a good first posting experience on TFP. Won't be the last!

 

[Texas Splash]

I keep forgetting that waterfall pump has no valves. I see what you mean about the water flowing from the pool or spa. Unless you have a way at the waterfall and suction point to plug those ports, you would have a gusher back at the pad. Hope your power stays on and all goes well. Stay warm.

 

[GMTK]

How did your system do? I ran the waterfall pump all night and the low speed on the main pump and so far everything looks fine.