Pentair Mastertemp 300 not working right after cleaning

Destinius

Member
Aug 7, 2022
6
Michigan
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hey everyone! New pool owner here. Bought a house with an existing 33k gallon in-ground pool with a Pentair Mastertemp 300 which has been working flawlessly for almost two seasons that I've owned it until I decided to clean it and I messed things up royally. PHOTO-2022-06-09-09-59-06.jpg
First off, I was installing a wire mesh to prevent rodents that love to build nests inside. The picture shows one winter of nesting. It was simultaneously disgusting and impressive at the same time. Luckily, nothing seemed to be chewed up and the heater has been working normally. The previous owners told me that they spent like $6k after chipmunks wrecked it a few years back. Anyway, before I installed the meshing I hosed off the exterior and a bit of the interior plastic walls too but it appears I may have gotten water on some internal sensors or something. I just can't leave well enough alone. I should have just put in the mesh and called it a day rather than try to make this thing sparkle like it's brand new again. Mea culpa. There's my OCD in full swing. I'm a doofus. I know. I've been kicking myself for days now. It was a dumb idea to bring the hose anywhere near an exposed pool heater. What was I thinking. (Though the mesh looks professional so I am proud of my handiwork).

When I put everything back together though, the temperature readings were fluctuating wildly, like 96, 106 and 124 when I pressed the heater on button and the heater refused to kick on. It also showed some R=? I don't remember the code and I should have taken a picture but I didn't have my phone on me at the time. I didn't know what else to do so I unscrewed the circuit board from the top to make sure I didn't get any water in that. I didn't. It was bone-dry. However, I scraped one of the lines on the flimsy flexible flat data cable that connects the membrane keypad to the board. After that, the unit was unresponsive. Except...when I pressed this yellow switch on the back of the circuit board it came alive with some number like 264 and then went off. I must have pressed that 3-5 times I wonder what that does? All I knew was that all hope was not lost since it indicated it was sort of still alive.

So I went ahead and replaced the membrane keypad (bought a cheap Chinese brand on Amazon) a few days later it arrived after the heater got a chance to dry off thoroughly in the August heat. Incidentally, I took a leaf blower and hot air gun to the thermistor and other electrical components on the day I hosed it on the intake side of the heater to make sure all the connections were dried out (after reading a ton of posts here about that). Well, after I replaced the membrane keypad everything seemed like it was back to normal. Accurate readings of the pool water temp (70 degrees) which I verified and set point temp at 85. The LED is good, and the heater was kicking on! I thought I was in the clear.

Except I wasn't. The water coming out of the pool jets was barely lukewarm still warmer than the frigid cold pool but not like the spa-like hot water that used to come out before my cleaning fiasco. Oh, and the exhaust air is mad hot! Way waay waaaay hotter than it ever used to be. It almost burned me that's how hot. It seems the heater is burning gas alright but not to heat the pool water instead it's just burning it up into the air for some reason.

My question to you all is, could I have messed up some sensor or something in my hosing down episode that is preventing the heater from heating the water properly and just burning gas up because it has to go somewhere. Or is something else wrong that coincidentally is conspiring to punish me through some sort of pool heater karma?

Note: Please refrain from calling me any names in spite of me deserving it. I feel bad enough and now dealing with a partially working heater. Expensive mistake so take this as a warning to anyone looking to clean the heater prior to rodent-proofing it. Don't use a hose or water! (full disclosure I am an electrical / computer engineer so I am used to breaking/fixing things my whole life - AND YES I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN BETTER!!!) :/ Please help.
 
It sounds like the old membrane may have been getting stuck and showing sfs reading. The symptoms sounds like it’s not transferring heat to the exchanger fast enough. It’s possible the heater wasn’t running long enough to trigger sfs. @JamesW does a good job breaking what could be your problem in this thread. You may want start with holding pool and spa button down for 10 seconds upon startup to monitor sfs reading.
 
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Thank you @Poolbreh! I checked this morning and the Stack Flue Sensor reading off the LED was a steady 276° F and I double checked with a kitchen thermometer that seemed to be 15-20° less that but that's probably because of where I stuck it. The water going into the pool was only slightly heated over the 70° pool temperature (can tell by feel). My pool water level is definitely low (2" for 33k gal pool) not sure if that impacts the heater's performance?
 
My pool water level is definitely low (2" for 33k gal pool) not sure if that impacts the heater's performance?
It has no effect on heater performance.

Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment.

Do you have a VS pump ?

Is your water flow greater then before?
 
Hi Allen - I do not believe I have a Variable Speed pump It's a Sta Rite Model P6RA6F-206L that's a few years old. I have gone ahead and created my signature. Hope that helps. I don't believe the water flow has changed. The only thing I did was clean the pool heater and all these issues emerged.

Do you think I should start throwing new parts at it? Like the thermistor, stack flue sensor, or the thermal regulator, (not sure what else) in case I fried one of those or caused it to malfunction when I tried cleaning out the chipmunk habitat?
 
Check your gas pressure with a manometer and see it is within spec and you have sufficient gas flow when the heater is operating.
 
This may be beyond the scope of my abilities. I do not own a manometer nor do I know the procedure to test the gas flow. Could you kindly explain your process for this diagnosis step as that would help me greatly in understanding the issue better? I'm guessing you are trying to rule out something that is restricting the gas flow to the heater or something internal that is restricting gas flow? What are the potential causes for that?
 
Your heater is running. The heat has to go somewhere - either into the water or out the exhaust. Your stack flue temperature looks normal so you are not losing heat out the exhaust.

Only other hypothesis is that your heater is not running at rated BTUs. That could be due to getting less gas flow then required.
 
Makes sense. I’m getting a gas guy to come over next Tue for my fireplace and I’ll ask him to measure the gas flow on the Pentair at that time. What’s the procedure to measure it? I’ll post the results then.

Also curious to know what are all the possible causes for heater to get less gas flow than required?
 

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Also curious to know what are all the possible causes for heater to get less gas flow than required?

  • Pinched flex poly gas line caused by tree roots.
  • Corroded sediment trap
  • Broken gas meter
  • Broken gas regulator
  • Corroded gas valve
  • Corroded gas pipe
 
There is an inlet port on gas valve mastertemp require not less than 4”-14” wc between static and dynamic. Measure before gas valve opens(static) and after(dynamic) to make sure wc is within range. Dynamic should drop .5-2”
 
Thank you @Poolbreh and sorry for the late reply. We had to close the pool as it got really cold up north here. Before that, I checked with a gas guy who came over and told me there's no issue with the gas lines or the gas getting to the heater. Then, my pool guy (original installer of the pool) said that it's normal operation when the ambient water temp is cooler at the start the water exiting the jets will feel cooler and only after it reaches around 85+ degrees and the pool water temp is relatively hot, then the water coming out of the jets will feel hotter. There's no way to test that theory now, as Old Man Winter settled in. I suspect he (Pool Guy) is right as the temps did raise about 1 degree per hour as is expected for a couple of hours I did run it but not for long as the ambient water temp started dipping below 70 degrees. I'll report back next spring!
 
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