Oh No! Pool drain!

Excellent. Sorry, I don't know anything about DE filters. I do seem to recall DE on the pool floor might indicate a leak in the filter? Hopefully someone else can advise. Maddie (@YippeeSkippy), would you know? Or know who knows?
 
Ready for your next assignment? Once you have the test kit we'll confirm the CYA level. If it's too high, you'll have to exchange some water. My instinct is that is going to happen. And you should do the exchange before we deal with the algae. So...

Some would just drain the pool some amount, and refill it. That's the easiest, most cost-effective way. But doing that is not entirely without risk. If your surrounding water table (ground water) is higher than the bottom of the pool, you can float your pool right out of the ground. This is very unlikely, I'm just giving you the facts. Also, the pressure of the water against the finish can be holding older or defective plaster to the pool. Relieving that pressure by emptying the pool can cause that defective plaster to pop off, usually in the form of blisters. Pebble is supposed to be less prone to that. New plaster too. But it did happen to me, in a pool that was only about five or six years old.

The chances of either of those things occurring is slim. But something for you to think about. So assignment #1: You could call [not sure who] to find out about the water table in your area. Maybe the local public works department, or the water company. Just to play it safe.

But an alternative to emptying the pool is to do a no-drain exchange. Which swaps water without ever lowering the water level. It uses more water, and can take longer, but eliminates either of these possibilities. So assignment #2 is to read about it: how to drain your pool. This article describes the no-drain exchange, but also describes how best to do it the other way:


And assignment #3 is to think about what you want to do, and decide ahead of time, so come kit-arrival day you'll already know how to proceed.
 
Ive cleaned my DE filter and recharged it with DE. Looks like a bit too much maybe as there’s a layer of DE at the deepest part of my pool now.
No matter how hard I try, I always end up with DE in the pool when I clean the filter. What I do is drain the spa about half way down. I set the returns to spa and suction from the skimmer while I add DE slurry the skimmer. This isolates the DE to the spa. Then I set the equipment to spa mode and let it run for about 20 minutes (suction from spa/return to spa). When the water clears up, I know all the DE ended up in the grids.

If the DE continues to return the pool, you may need to do some trouble shooting. Tears in the grids, unseated grids/manifolds, improperly seated or torn internal bleeder sock, and adding DE too fast will all cause DE to return to the pool.
 
Ready for your next assignment? Once you have the test kit we'll confirm the CYA level. If it's too high, you'll have to exchange some water. My instinct is that is going to happen. And you should do the exchange before we deal with the algae. So...

Some would just drain the pool some amount, and refill it. That's the easiest, most cost-effective way. But doing that is not entirely without risk. If your surrounding water table (ground water) is higher than the bottom of the pool, you can float your pool right out of the ground. This is very unlikely, I'm just giving you the facts. Also, the pressure of the water against the finish can be holding older or defective plaster to the pool. Relieving that pressure by emptying the pool can cause that defective plaster to pop off, usually in the form of blisters. Pebble is supposed to be less prone to that. New plaster too. But it did happen to me, in a pool that was only about five or six years old.

The chances of either of those things occurring is slim. But something for you to think about. So assignment #1: You could call [not sure who] to find out about the water table in your area. Maybe the local public works department, or the water company. Just to play it safe.

But an alternative to emptying the pool is to do a no-drain exchange. Which swaps water without ever lowering the water level. It uses more water, and can take longer, but eliminates either of these possibilities. So assignment #2 is to read about it: how to drain your pool. This article describes the no-drain exchange, but also describes how best to do it the other way:


And assignment #3 is to think about what you want to do, and decide ahead of time, so come kit-arrival day you'll already know how to proceed.
I like on top of a hill in a desert like climate. I hope to God i'm above the water table. I do pay an extra fee to have the local utility pump water up to my elevation. My house is a high grade drive up a 1000' hill. I "think" i have a plaster and pebble pool. Certainly looks like little pebbles.

Your warning is well heeded though. I'm scared of destroying my pool and the additional water is a small cost in comparison to pool repair. I think I will purchase a submerged pump and pump it to the sewer drain right next to my house as I fill the pool at the same time. The only requirement my city has is that the water be dechlorinated.

Do you think it's best to chemically dechlorinate for the exchange or just wait for the sun to burn off the chlorine? :)
 
No matter how hard I try, I always end up with DE in the pool when I clean the filter. What I do is drain the spa about half way down. I set the returns to spa and suction from the skimmer while I add DE slurry the skimmer. This isolates the DE to the spa. Then I set the equipment to spa mode and let it run for about 20 minutes (suction from spa/return to spa). When the water clears up, I know all the DE ended up in the grids.

If the DE continues to return the pool, you may need to do some trouble shooting. Tears in the grids, unseated grids/manifolds, improperly seated or torn internal bleeder sock, and adding DE too fast will all cause DE to return to the pool.
Thankfully it looks like it's stopped. I made two mistakes.

#1 I think I used too much DE.

#2 I added DE before reading pool school. It seems I'm supposed to do it slow. I just dumped it into a bucket, swished it around and dumped into the skimmer at once. I'm pretty sure there's another filter cleaning in my near future. lol Such is the life of someone that works too much and had little babies... and little sleep. :D

Thanks for the tips, very helpful!
 
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Do you think it's best to chemically dechlorinate for the exchange or just wait for the sun to burn off the chlorine? :)
Let it burn off. You've already got algae, right? So you don't have to worry about getting algae!

Sounds like you've decided to do the no-drain exchange, so that's good. We're just waitin' on the kit...
 
Dirk - do you think recommending a full drain instead of a water exchange might be in order? I'm thinking that since the OP is a new home owner he/she might benefit from knowing the exact volume of the pool. I'm just remembering your advice on an earlier post.😎
 
Well, we won't know how much to drain until RL gets his kit. Plus, he's decided to do a no-drain exchange, so the opportunity to get the volume won't be available. If I can help it, I'll never drain my pool again, and wouldn't advise someone else to do so just to get the volume number. We can calculate it, and then double-check it with testing/dosing. So the risk is not worth the reward. The "meter trick" is more appropriate for a new pool, or one that has to be drained for some other reason...

RL, Dan is suggesting you could drain your pool 100%. By doing so, you'd be starting fresh, you'd solve your water issues in one fell swoop, and by using your water meter we could calculate your water volume very accurately. All good things. But then you'd be subjected to some of the risks we discussed. I wouldn't were it my pool, but you can make the call on that. It would certainly be a lot less work and get you swimming a lot faster, if it worked out.
 
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Which brings us to your next assignment RL (thanks for reminding me Dan). Start working on your water volume. We're going to need that number. You'll need to measure your pool, length and width and depths (deep end and shallow end). Then you can use Pool Math to do the math. Because of the freeform shape, you're going to have to guesstimate some.

Use can use this version of Pool Math. The volume calculator is near the bottom of the page.


You average the depths to get the depth number. Don't over think it. You could just measure it like it's a big rectangle, and don't count the water over the ledge, and you'll be close enough for now. It'll just mean a little extra chlorine during the SLAM (the method we'll use to get rid of the algae). You'll be able to fine tune the number later.

Where did you get 16K from?
 
I'm not sure how far you've come towards figuring out that Trouble Free Pool Care, aka this website is a different, simpler, cheaper and more chemically-correct method of pool care than the "traditional" method taught at Leslie's, other pool stores, and other online sties / Youtube channels. They mostly teach vudu chemistry everywhere else. If you've not yet found it, please download the short, free e-book found at the bottom of the linked webpage Pool School - Trouble Free Pool and then quickly forget anything Leslie's or anyone else has taught you save what you've learned so far on this site. The linked e-book teaches the basics of the management system of pool care taught here, which is far different than what is taught elsewhere in some very important ways. The forum member experts will help guide you through this system and teach the more advanced concepts and help you with the "whys". It's important that everyone here following these methods knows the language and concepts taught here, because like has already been said, some of the info here versus the traditional method is contradictory, and there is little question who is right. TFP is always right, because this system of care uses valid chemistry to develop pool care techniques; the others do not!
 
That CYA being SO high would explain the large amount of chlorine needed to keep the algae at bay and to get what is there dead! Good job doing the test..........It is pool drain time if you are ready to do so.

Kim:kim:
 
Alright! All moved in! Time to tackle this pool! I stopped pouring liquid chlorine into the pool about a week ago. Waiting for the chlorine to burn off.

I’m guessing I need to order a submersible sump pump and hose to go with it? Any suggestions?

Then it’ll be pump water out as I’m filling. I’m guessing the process could take a long time.

Should I be doing anything else in the meantime?

Maybe get other chemicals ready? Or change the dead pool lights? Can those be changed wet? Thanks all!
 

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