- Jul 17, 2018
- 127
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
mm,
Your SWCG (1400) will produce an FC increase of 4.8 ppm, in your pool, when the cell is running at 100% output in a 24 hour period. So that is an increase of .2ppm of FC per hour.
Most pools use between 2 and 4 ppm of chlorine a day. Assuming your pool only uses 2 ppm a day, then your pump will only need to run 10 hours. Which is what your pool builder said. But to put that in perspective, that is the very minimum... If we assume that your pool uses the average amount of FC that most pools use, 3 ppm per day... then you would need to run your pump for 15 hours. Still not too bad.. Also keep in mind that your cell is operating at 100% output. There is no increasing the amps on a cell.. I assume your pool builder was talking about adjust the output percentage, but at this point your cell is already running at 100%.
If you want to see what your pool builder knows about salt cells, just ask him how much your cell will increase the FC, in your pool, per day. I doubt he has a clue ..
To give your pool builder some slack, the 1400 will work for your pool in your climate area. You will just have to keep the output set to 100%..
Thanks,
Jim R.
NO......................PLEASE do not go to their "pool school". Well you an go but don't listen!! LOL We can/will teach you how to care for your pool that will cost less and be easier than anything they tell you.
Kim
I do agree with you a gas heater works better. But correct me if I am wrong, "yes" the heat pump will take longer to heat the water but once it does the pump will maintain that temp as long as the outside ambient temp is at a certain temperature.
As Jim said, the 1400 will work. Just go with it and see how it goes. You will have to run your pump a bit longer but with a VS that is not a big deal. After that cell is used up, you will know your pool and you can determine if a different cell size would be best. And how that would work in your system.
My heat pump is independent and full inverter. It runs when it needs to run to maintain temp. As I mentioned ours is on its own pump so doesn’t require the pool pump to be on. You can plumb it either way. During winter it was never running all the time. It’s important to look at the COP rating for both winter and summer. Many systems have a cop of 4 ish during warm weather and less during cold. Our system has a cop of 16 in summer and 8 in winter. In summer for one unit of electricity it uses it produces 16. A system with a cop of 4 in summer would take one unit of electricity and only give you 4 units back. I had a good understanding of heat pumps before we put the pool in as we have had a heat pump for our hot water system for the past 9 years. It is a stiebel electron and heats the water off peak with no electric back up at all as it’s not required. It’s a German design and can heat water in well below freezing temps in Germany. We have had our quarterly electricity bill after running our pool heat pump all winter and combined with all the other pool equipment it hasn’t added a massive amount to our bill. The company we had install did stats for the system for our pool size, location etc. They broke down the costs for each month. Running costs for the year in total for our pool are estimated to be just over $800AUD to maintain a temp of 32*C with a cover and 30*C without (obviously this is dependent on your cost of electricity - we pay about .25 per kwh. So far we have run it at 30*C with cover as this is enough for my boys. I will up it to 32*C for myself when the outside temp is warm enough for me to use it.
What kind of heat pump do you have? How does water move through it without the pool pump on, does it have it's own water pump?