New build (day three pool startup) cloudy, bubbles

[Tom09]

Hello, I’ve browsed TFP for a little bit and the more I read and learned the more I do not want to have a pool. I’ve read about the pool chemistry and that’s right over my head. There’s so many moving parts in building a pool and the more I dive in the confusion sets in and stresses me out.

I’ve had the privilege to talk some members which provided great insight, but also put in perspective I’m over my head.

Well here’s the design for owner build, please let me know if I’m missing anything or questions.

Individual who did plans added one skimmer, I suggested two but he doesn’t think I need it. Reading on here, I should opt for two, correct?

Skimmers are plumbed separately from everything, correct?
34x16
Acapulco shelf : 7’ wide, 18” depth
Permitter:100
Depth 31/2-6-1/2
Area:544
Gallons:19000

Pool finish will be a pebble finish, haven’t decided which one yet. We have kids so we want something smooth that isn’t rough on them and I’ve talked to people that have pebble finishes and it’s rough on their feet etc, but they are older pools as well.

The rock, tile part.. ahhh don’t get me started.. stress 99999999999 level.

Pool equipment recommended from designer
Filter pentair cartridge
Pump pentair vsf 3 hp
Lights: pentair globrite (3)
Pool cleaner : suction end

Adding from me
Intellichlor: ic40
Recommend for inteilliph by member. I just skimmed it and looks good to have.
Intellicenter?

Bonding: #8 solid copper wire, 4 equal bond points on deck grid , #3 rebar

Pool equipment/water all bonded. (Water bond pb2008)

Electrical
#10 thhn to pool sub panel 30 amp, min 18” sealed conduit lights/pump 20 amp gfi

I asked for #8 but he has 10 on hand, would this be sufficient enough for future add on etc?

All the bonding, electrical plumbing is based on the designer so thoughts appreciated.

We do have hard water where I’m located and speaking with a TFP, he utilizes his water softener as his auto refill. At the moment I do not have a water softener and when I do get one, it’s going to be difficult to hook it up as auto fill but it would be connected to the house that I can run a hose off of, but not sure how efficient that would be.

My concern is will the hard water be bad for the swcg?

We are about to work on the structural engineering aspect and then submit for permits.

Startup will be on our own and reading one members experience of managing it was putting my anxiety through the roof.

I hope we can do this!

I apologize if I missed anything, I will add as I think of it.. it’s Starbucks and donuts time, stress relievers. Lol

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Steel Engineering will need to know the elevation grades ( +’/-‘) on all sides of your neighbors property so those will need to be noted on your pool plan. This is how they determine size of rebar (3-4-5) and frequency of crossing (12”-6”).
As the plan shows now the +12” to +18” to +12” RBB is all Shotcrete starting at the property line and finishing at the property line or will it transition to masonry block?
More specific information is needed to be noted on your plans before you file for a permit, city’s differ from one to another but most require basic common request.

 

[Tom09]

Steel Engineering will need to know the elevation grades ( +’/-‘) on all sides of your neighbors property so those will need to be noted on your pool plan. This is how they determine size of rebar (3-4-5) and frequency of crossing (12”-6”).
As the plan shows now the 18” RBB is all Shotcrete starting at the property line and finishing at the property line, correct?
More specific information is needed to be noted on your plans before you file for a permit, city’s differ from one to another but most require basic common request.

Hi, thank you for your response. I was unaware of this. When i mention owner build, the individual who drew the plans, sets us up with the structural engineer who we send these too.. he does this with all of the pools.. he also digs, electrical , plumb.

He sets us up with the shotcrete/plaster who we deal with separately and same for Masonary, concrete work. They use the same for all their builds but we are the general contractors.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

You are doing a “Owner Builder”, once you as the home owner pull the permit that is what category it falls under with the city.
So you didn’t draw the plans?

 

[Tom09]

Yes,owner build.

No, the individual who did the plans, is the one who digs, plumbs, electrical as I mentioned.

He gave us two places to send the plans to for the structural engineer.

 

[Oly]

Hi Tom.
Life is full of moving parts and the good things in life are no different, except they are so worth it. I too am in central CA and would be happy to assist you in understanding water water chemistry relative to our area and my experience with my SWCG. It would be best if you started another thread under Water Chemistry and in the Testing and Balancing Your Water sub heading and keep this dedicated to your build.

It's said that disappointment is only unrealized expectations. So you are in the right place to learn everything you need to reach your goal of a trouble free pool.

 

[Tom09]

Hi Tom.
Life is full of moving parts and the good things in life are no different, except they are so worth it. I too am in central CA and would be happy to assist you in understanding water water chemistry relative to our area and my experience with my SWCG. It would be best if you started another thread under Water Chemistry and in the Testing and Balancing Your Water sub heading and keep this dedicated to your build.

It's said that disappointment is only unrealized expectations. So you are in the right place to learn everything you need to reach your goal of a trouble free pool.

That’s amazing, thank you Oly. I need to purchase a kit, I was thinking about taking to Leslie’s but read their testing is off compared to home test. Which kit should I purchase, Taylor Is the recommended one here.

 

[Oly]

It comes down to two kits currently on the market.
Both use Taylor products including FAS-DPD, drop titration and CYA turbidity tests.
Check out the Taylor K-2006C (need the C model) and the TF-100. Test Kits Compared
The Taylor K-1766 is the salt test for a salt pool system, I believe the TF-100pro includes this but check. Also check out the Speed Stir a lighted magnetic stirrer it's made for these type of titration tests.
Now relax a bit, you may want to wait to purchase as these reagents have a shelf life and you are still a ways out.

 

[Tom09]

Thank you, I’ll check these tests out. I appreciate it.

 

[kimkats]

Like what I see so far. The one thing I want you to think about is moving the shallow end to 4'. That helps ease the slope to the deep end.

Lets also talk about WATER depth. Some people talk about depth by saying from the floor to the coping but that is not water depth. Water depth is from the floor to the middle of skimmer opening.

 

[Tom09]

Like what I see so far. The one thing I want you to think about is moving the shallow end to 4'. That helps ease the slope to the deep end.

Lets also talk about WATER depth. Some people talk about depth by saying from the floor to the coping but that is not water depth. Water depth is from the floor to the middle of skimmer opening.

Hi, thank you for your input. I didn’t consider 4’, do you think it’s a big slope at 3.5? the Acapulco shelf is 7’ wide so length of pool will be 27’ after the shelf.

Yes, the depth will be to the skimmer, I did bring this up because I remember seeing this come up often here. Thank you for bringing it up incase I missed it because I would never would of thought of it.

 

[kimkats]

Hole a tape measure up the shortest adult in the house at 3'5" and 5" and see where it hits them standing up and kneeling down. TO anything to have a lesser slope is a good thing and the deeper the water the better so.............

What depth will your shelf be?

 

[Tom09]

Hole a tape measure up the shortest adult in the house at 3'5" and 5" and see where it hits them standing up and kneeling down. TO anything to have a lesser slope is a good thing and the deeper the water the better so.............

What depth will your shelf be?

Updated my original post as things you bring up that I forgot to add.

Shelf is 18”

Your question about height reminded me where they do swim lessons at, her pool is 4’ I assume and they can’t touch.. the shortest is 3’10ish at the moment. Lol

Oops re read your post, my kid is 3’10 lol not an adult.. are you asking for adult or everyone in the household?

Wow a long day, you are saying hold the tape measure to the adult.. ok I think it’s bed time lol

 

[kimkats]

Yeah the shortest adult as the kids are going to grow as long as you keep feeding them! LOL

 

[Tom09]

Yeah the shortest adult as the kids are going to grow as long as you keep feeding them! LOL

I don’t know, we told them would you like to grow and eat food or have a pool.. look where we are lol

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

We do have hard water where I’m located and speaking with a TFP, he utilizes his water softener as his auto refill. At the moment I do not have a water softener and when I do get one, it’s going to be difficult to hook it up as auto fill but it would be connected to the house that I can run a hose off of, but not sure how efficient that would be.

The two main reasons that lead to draining a pool are high CYA and high calcium levels. If I were to build a pool again, softened fill water would be mandatory. I got so tired of dealing with rising CH levels, I installed a portable RV softener to battle CH. It works, but the manual flushing every 3-4 weeks is becoming burdensome.

Considering the cost of a pool, the cost of fitting it for a softened water fill line should be nominal. Either find a way to plumb from the house if you plan on a whole-system or wire electrical and plumb a waterline and line to the sewer for a dedicated softener for the pool. Even smaller capacity units (less then $500) would be able to handle the evaporation rate of the pool.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[Tom09]

The two main reasons that lead to draining a pool are high CYA and high calcium levels. If I were to build a pool again, softened fill water would be mandatory. I got so tired of dealing with rising CH levels, I installed a portable RV softener to battle CH. It works, but the manual flushing every 3-4 weeks is becoming burdensome.

Considering the cost of a pool, the cost of fitting it for a softened water fill line should be nominal. Either find a way to plumb from the house if you plan on a whole-system or wire electrical and plumb a waterline and line to the sewer for a dedicated softener for the pool. Even smaller capacity units (less then $500) would be able to handle the evaporation rate of the pool.

Just my 2 cents...

Thank you for your feedback. I do have a clean out right by where the equipment would go, that would be the easiest install for a stand alone.. however i am still Trying to figure out how to get a main one for the house and utilitize that

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I do have a clean out right by where the equipment would go

That makes things easy!

 

[Oly]

Not sure where you are in Central CA, but it would be interesting to see a lab test of your source water chemistry and what you may anticipate managing pool water. Are you on a municipal water system or do you rely on well water? You can pull a water sample and take it to a local lab and have it tested. Agriculture is huge here so there are many top rated labs that can test your water specifically for calcium, alkalinity, pH and sulfates. If you are on a well then I would add a few more tests. They usually offer a standard testing array for drinking water from a well.

 

[Tom09]

Hi

Not sure where you are in Central CA, but it would be interesting to see a lab test of your source water chemistry and what you may anticipate managing pool water. Are you on a municipal water system or do you rely on well water? You can pull a water sample and take it to a local lab and have it tested. Agriculture is huge here so there are many top rated labs that can test your water specifically for calcium, alkalinity, pH and sulfates. If you are on a well then I would add a few more tests. They usually offer a standard testing array for drinking water from a well.

hi, we are on municipal water.