n00bie questions...

[nonissan]

Hello TFP!

I have been lurking here for many years but just registered this morning

I have had my pool for around 9 years. It is my first pool

Up until now, I have left everything on the settings that the builder put them on 9 years ago. I relied on a Polaris 360 for cleaning, but I have a Dolphin robot en route to take its place (per this forum's recommendation). I have taken samples to my local Pinch-a-Penny, but I'd like to start tackling testing myself

Intelliflo VSP, Pentair 420, Excel cartridge filters (2 years old) and Intelliclor SWG

1. Are TF and Taylor still the go-to test kits (the TFP school article is a little old)? Is one better than the other?
2. Is there a guide for what PSI my clean filters should read at a given RPM?
3. Is there a recommended PSI to have the 360 run correctly?
4. Lastly and most importantly, I have seen what appears to be conflicting information on this... my Intelliclor is always 'on', even when the pump is not. When the pump is off, the flow light comes on the Intelliclor; does that mean it is not producing chlorine? I have read that there is an automatic shut-off when the flow is insufficient (or the water is too cold). Or does it need to be completely shut down when the pump is off?

Thanks in advance. Apologies for all the n00bie questions; I did search before posting

 

[Newdude]

Hey nonissan and belated Welcome !!!

1. Are TF and Taylor still the go-to test kits (the TFP school article is a little old)? Is one better than the other?

They ARE. They both use Taylor drops. The TF100 and TFpro have less (but still plenty) calcium and TA (?) Tests because you simply don't need an extra 50 of each to throw away each time when the reagents expire. Those two don't change much and don't need to be tested all the time. By the time you add up all the components, a TF-pro-salt is the clear winner on value.

2. Is there a guide for what PSI my clean filters should read at a given RPM?

No 2 pools are the same. You clean the filters and record your baseline after. Then you clean at 25% increase or when it's convenient if sooner than that.

3. Is there a recommended PSI to have the 360 run correctly?

Again, trial and error specific to your rig.

my Intelliclor is always 'on', even when the pump is not. When the pump is off

Then it needs it's own timer to only run once the pump is on. Or switch to 24/7 pump runtime at low RPM so the pump is always on / always filtering / SWG always producing FC. Many of us choose to run 24/7 for an extra $10 a month in energy costs. Mere peanuts for what it does for you because you'd be running half the time anyway.

I have read that there is an automatic shut-off when the flow is insufficient (or the water is too cold). Or does it need to be completely shut down when the pump is off?

It will shut itself off for no flow, cold water or low salt. But you need to correct the no flow problem so that the flow switch is a fail safe and not the primary safety method. If the unit runs without flow, gas builds up with no water pushing it out the returns and then boom.

 

[Mdragger88]

Welcome to TFP officially!
Here’s the deets on the differences in the kits if you wanna go through it to compare
Test Kits Compared
Also, if you don’t already use it you should check out
PoolMath
Most people with a swg adjust its percentage/runtime according to the season to ensure they keep the proper
FC/CYA Levels at all times.
Pool math effects of adding section can help you see what your swg approximately produces in your pool volume depending upon your runtime & % settings.
Since you’re offical now … try to fill out your signature with all your details including which intellichlor cell you have- it helps everyone give you more personalized accurate advice.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.google.com

& don’t worry, the only silly question is the one you don’t ask! We were all noobies once

 

[woodyp]

Depending on the topic.. <<<< still a noobie. Welcome.

 

[Newdude]

the only silly question is the one you don’t ask! We were all noobies once

Depending on the topic.. <<<< still a noobie. Welcome.

I advertise that fact everyday. Username checks out.

 

[Jimrahbe]

N,

If you have been using the speeds that your pool builder set up in your IntelliFlo, you have most likely been running way, way faster than necessary.

Is your IntelliChlor SWCG a standalone unit or is it connected to an automation system like an EasyTouch?

Is your salt cell the original one from 9 years ago?

I too recommend running 24/7 at a low RPM.. This allows you to make a little chlorine all the time and to skim all the time. Doing this costs me less than $20 bucks a month.. I run at 1200 most of the time. With your large cartridge filter and no heater you should be able to do the same thing. My filter pressure is about 1 or 2 lbs. I clean the cartridges twice a year, but really could go all year if I wanted. To be honest, I almost never look at my filter PSI as it is just not necessary for the way my pool operates.

I also have the new TF-Pro Salt, and love it.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[nonissan]

You guys all rock. Much appreciated!

Jim,

SWCG is not connected to automation
Salt cell was replaced last year
24/7 sounds like a great solution, as I do believe I am paying dearly to run at crazy RPMs for (I believe) 8 hrs/day

Another issue I've been having lately that I read up on is that my Intelliflo clock resets whenever the power goes out. I'm not sure if that's screwing up my program or not; I just found a video to check/reset the program...

If I hooked up the SWCG and Flo to an automation system, would that kill both birds, so to speak? Would that also control the light? What's the recommendation for automation?

My brand new, 9 year old pool, lol

 

[Newdude]

24/7 sounds like a great solution, as I do believe I am paying dearly to run at crazy RPMs for (I believe) 8 hrs/day

I forget my exact maths but 24/7 at 1200 RPMs was the same as a skootch over 2 hours at full throttle. (2.25 ?)

My brand new, 9 year old pool, lol

It's a testament to the SWG being that awesome. By dumb luck the levels I chose to run originally satisfied the FC/CYA relationship and the first problem I had was when the cell reached end of life. I promptly replaced it and took the next 2 years slowly learning what I *should* have 8 years earlier. But I had that time to learn because the SWG was doing its thing like it always did.

 

[Jimrahbe]

N,

I have an automation system and love it.. but, they are somewhat expensive and if you have not needed one in 9 years, I doubt you 'need' one now.

Most automation system would control your pool light, but it really depends on how things are wired now as to how practical that might be. As an example, you might have to dig up 20 feet of deck to connect the light to a new automation system depending on where the light is now vs. where you would install the automation system.

I would assume if you run 24/7 it would not make any difference what the clock in the pump did, but admit I have not researched that issue. I 'think' the clock resets, but the programs remain. The problem is of course that if the clock is wrong, the programs will not start when you think they will.

Is your current pump programmed to run at different speeds during the 8 hours it is now scheduled to run??? If so do you know the speeds??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[nonissan]

Is your current pump programmed to run at different speeds during the 8 hours it is now scheduled to run??? If so do you know the speeds??

It is same speed during its on time. 3 out of 4; will have to check the RPMs a little later, but it's spinnin...

 

[nonissan]

It is same speed during its on time. 3 out of 4; will have to check the RPMs a little later, but it's spinnin...

2350 rpm
927w...

How do you calculate GPM?

 

[Jimrahbe]

N,

Why would you care about GPM??? It does not really matter.

2350 RPM is not all that bad. Most pool builders set them up to run at almost full speed of 3450.

Still, 900 watts at 2350 vs. 180 watts at 1200 RPM.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[nonissan]

Dunno about GPM... I just seem to see it quoted a lot when people are throwing out numbers

I turned it down to 1500 RPM and am at 278W. Much better.

Thanks again everybody. I have learned a lot!

 

[mknauss]

I turned it down to 1500 RPM and am at 278W. Much better.

Do you still have the Polaris plugged into a return?

 

[Jimrahbe]

N,

I suggest that you slowly turn the speed down while watching your SWCG's flow light. When the flow light turns red, increase the speed by about 150 RPM and call that the slowest speed you ever want to run.

See how that speeds works for you. If too low, keep adding 100 RPM until you get it where you want.

1500 is not at all bad, but if say 1200 will work, why run faster?

GPM questions usually come from people that believe that you have to turnover X amount of water per day to avoid algae. We do not believe in this myth. Algae is a chemical issue and not a filter issue.

At slow speeds your skimmers will not 'look' like they are working, as there will not be a lot of skimmer action. Looking at the water in the skimmer is not a good test. Just wait 24 hours and see if the skimmer is working or not. If you use hairnets in your skimmers, like I do, you will be amazed at how much junk falls into your pool every day and is captured by the skimmers.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[nonissan]

Do you still have the Polaris plugged into a return?

Currently, yes, until the Dolphin arrives

N,

I suggest that you slowly turn the speed down while watching your SWCG's flow light. When the flow light turns red, increase the speed by about 150 RPM and call that the slowest speed you ever want to run.

See how that speeds works for you. If too low, keep adding 100 RPM until you get it where you want.

1500 is not at all bad, but if say 1200 will work, why run faster?

GPM questions usually come from people that believe that you have to turnover X amount of water per day to avoid algae. We do not believe in this myth. Algae is a chemical issue and not a filter issue.

At slow speeds your skimmers will not 'look' like they are working, as there will not be a lot of skimmer action. Looking at the water in the skimmer is not a good test. Just wait 24 hours and see if the skimmer is working or not. If you use hairnets in your skimmers, like I do, you will be amazed at how much junk falls into your pool every day and is captured by the skimmers.

Thanks,

Jim R.

All makes sense. Thanks again

 

[mknauss]

Currently, yes, until the Dolphin arrives

It likely not work very well at a lower rpm.

 

[nonissan]

It likely not work very well at a lower rpm.

Ha. It barely worked at higher RPMs. Hence the Dolphin. The 360 is as old as the pool, and the internals have been replaced more times than I can count. Even on 4/4 RPMs I was barely getting a tail-sweep

 

[nonissan]

Gents and Ladies,

Since my last post, my IntelliChlor salt and flow light come on after about two months of running. Should I up the RPMs or does that mean I need to clean the filters more frequently (I used to only have to clean them 2x/year)

The floor of my pool is very dirty, so I'm assuming my skimmers (thus RPMs) aren't doing enough?

And the Dolphin cleaner doesn't do squat... I'm in N. FL, so I have big leaves and a lot of Spanish Moss. The Moss is getting stuck in the Dolphin's wheels and motor

The pool was much cleaner with the supply-side 360 and high RPMs for 8 hours/day. I thought I was going to save on electricity and have a cleaner pool with the Dolphin and 24/7 runtime on the pump at lower RPMs...

What am I doing wrong, and/or what do I need to be doing differently?

Thanks!

Tim

 

[Alba666]

I had a robot cleaner and IMHO they just aren’t as effective as a good manual vacuum head on a pole.

I can easily have the pool bottom cleaner manually in half an hour. The robot I would have to babysit for 2 hours as it would get stuck in a narrow pool section and need relocating.

Also, one possible impact of low speed pump operation is a less effective skimmer with stuff sinking to the bottom instead of getting into the skimmer basket.