Leave SWG plugged in? Not sure

As for the electric at the timer...
Be sure the pump is wired to the LINE side of the timer and the SWG is wired to the LOAD side of the timer.
This will ensure the pump get continuous power as it is controlled by its own internal clock/schedules and the SWG is controlled by the timer.

Set the timer cogs to have the SWG turn on 30 minutes AFTER the pump starts and turn off 30 minutes BEFORE the pump stops. This will provide a bit of a buffer as the timer and pump clocks will never stay exactly in sync. Check the clocks monthly and reset as needed.
 
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Be sure the pump is wired to the LINE side of the timer and the SWG is wired to the LOAD side of the timer.
From the photo, how would I know where the line side and where the load side is? Or is that exposed only when the metal covering is exposed? Will it say “line “ and “load”
I believe the company I hired would be able to do that fine, but I’d like to know for my own reference so I can confirm.

IMG_8159.jpeg
 
Rancho posted this photo (not my system) to show me the trippers. On the bottom are the wires. Which ones are the ones you’re mentioning @proavia ? And do you suspect they are the same for me if the area was open for viewing?
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Look at the five screws with the wires attached.
The terminals are labeled

A - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4
A - no idea, I don't use it
1 - Line
2 - Load
3 - Line
4 - Load

In a 208-240 volt setup
The two hot wires from the breaker go to 1 and 3
The VS pump goes to 1 and 3
The SWG goes to 2 and 4

This allows the pump to receive continuous power and the SWG to be controlled via the timer.

No idea what your wiring is behind the panel. Any competent electrician or SWG installer should be able to easily wire it as shown though.
 
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It hit me overnight when the good thoughts come in. Anyone conscious of future work would have tossed the timer dog ears inside the bottom of the panel. Mine are in there in their original baggie not needing them at the time of install.

And a fun thought. While it's no question a hefty investment, the IC60 will produce 995 gallons worth of 10% for you. If purchased at Walmart with 9.5% Los Angeles sales tax, they'd cost $6177.20. The cell only has to live to 3900 hours to break even. As terrible as that would be, you lost no money and didn't lug 1 jug in the meantime.

Even with a full PB install the first cell will net you over 2X ROI. Chlorine could fall down to $2.50 a gallon along the way and you'd still be ahead, but I doubt we'll ever see those prices again. Future cells will clean UP without needing the $1000 install and $500 controller.
 
I appreciate that perspective. I hope it’s as easy as it seems. I suppose the only downside is I have 20 gallons of chlorine remaining. 😆

Since I don’t have a k1766 until Wednesday, I used pool math history to calculate how much salt I might have accumulated over the past two years and it seems I should be around 1600. So not too many additions left if that number holds close to true. Also how soon after adding salt would I test when I get that going?

I haven’t ever been to a pool store for testing. Should I jump the gun and get my salt tested? I know, I know. Wait. Ugh.
 
So not too many additions left if that number holds close to true
It's a reasonable # to guess. :epds:


Also how soon after adding salt would in test when I get that going?
Turn the cell off and add 75% of your dose from the baseline (once the kit comes) to target. There's no need to go crazy brushing it to dissolve, I check back every half hour but some sit there brushing the whole time. Give it 2 full days to mix once dissolved and test again. Adjust your math based on that result and add the remainder. Give that 2 days and you're probably good to turn the cell on.

Always remember that the cell takes a long time to raise the FC significantly. If you need one or two FC, and you're clear of minimum, let the cell do it. Any more than that needs LC to boost it right then.
 
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In pool math, seems I have to enter the min, target, and max for salt. What do others have entered for the IC 60?
 
For 'tracking salt' in the settings I use 3000 as the min, and 3200 for target and 3600 for max. In the salt tab thingie, you just use your baseline and whatever target you want at that time.

You'll get confirmation soon but a 40 lb bag should add about 300 for you. It's only 140 for me so when I'm low I just add a bag and see if it worked. You can do half a bag for a similar routine. It's all eyeballed. We're playing hand grenades, not horseshoes.
 
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I think somewhere I read that it has to be 3400? Is it ok if there’s more than that? And will it at least turn on if it’s maybe 3000?
 

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My 3 cells worked great at 3000. They usually worked down to 2800 so I dose to 3200 when adding. You don't get the rain I do so you'll probably stay pretty consistent.
 
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I want to do bad things!!! I want to add salt now. I will go ahead and busy myself with other things. Test first is the TFP way. Geez Louise!!!
 
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We never said it was easy to wait. :ROFLMAO: We said it was easy to get it right when done properly.
 
OCLT passed
Nice !!
Do I have to increase my CYA? Why can’t I just leave it at 60?
60 is probably fine for the tail end of the season with less demand. When it's hot out, you'll want more CYA to minimize FC loss. The SWG takes its full cycle to add today's dose so its like adding a slow drip that burns off as fast as it's added, or even faster if it's mid day. With LC you spike it and it drifts down slowly from the peak.

We'll have you dial it in on the high side for some safety net.
 
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Whelp. I tested with the expired test kit (2022) provided and my salt was 2800. Install happening now.
Ordering from Nate now so I can retest when it arrives.
 
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