Thanks everyone for all of the help. I was at work yesterday and haven't had a chance to go through James' full troubleshooting procedure. I will try putting the system into boost mode.
Jandy AquaPure No Chlorine Production, But No Error Codes
- Thread starter socalsharky
- Start date
If the amperage was not good, the system would show an error.
So, I think that the testing is probably off.
You need to make sure that the meter is set to DC amps or DC volts and autoranging.
For voltage, you need a solid connection to the wires and you need to watch before the system turns on and then watch for 5 minutes after the system turns on.
You can make a test rig to see if the amperage and voltage are good.
You can use a 24 volt 150 watt bulb.
If you get (2) 12 volt 75 watt bulbs, you can put them in series to make a 24 volt 150 watt test rig.
Note 75 watts actual and not "Equivalent.
Not LED bulbs, incandescent.
Disconnect the cell and connect the test rig and the lights should light up indicating that power is working.
Test amperage and it should be about 6.25 amps for 24 volts and 150 watts.
When testing amps, only clamp around one wire and not both wires.
www.westmarine.com
aqlightinggroup.com
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So, I think that the testing is probably off.
You need to make sure that the meter is set to DC amps or DC volts and autoranging.
For voltage, you need a solid connection to the wires and you need to watch before the system turns on and then watch for 5 minutes after the system turns on.
You can make a test rig to see if the amperage and voltage are good.
You can use a 24 volt 150 watt bulb.
If you get (2) 12 volt 75 watt bulbs, you can put them in series to make a 24 volt 150 watt test rig.
Note 75 watts actual and not "Equivalent.
Not LED bulbs, incandescent.
Disconnect the cell and connect the test rig and the lights should light up indicating that power is working.
Test amperage and it should be about 6.25 amps for 24 volts and 150 watts.
When testing amps, only clamp around one wire and not both wires.
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Model # 360990 Mfg # 531075
Amperage: 6.25 Amps
Base Type: Standard
Best Use: Standard Screw Base Lamps, Sold in Pairs
Voltage: 12 Volts
Wattage: 75 Watts
Model # 360990 Mfg # 531075
3433 Via Lido Newport Beach, CA 92663-3908
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Connect the power wires to the bulb and if the bulb lights up 100%, then the unit is working.
Measure volts and amps (DC).
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Measure volts and amps (DC).
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Note that AC voltage is measured as RMS value, which is the peak voltage/sqrt 2.
VRMS x sqrt 2 = VPeak
120 volts RMS = 169.7 Volts Peak to Peak.
240 volts RMS = 339.4 Volts Peak to Peak.
When voltage appears to increase coming out of a bridge rectifier, it's because a voltmeter typically reads the RMS (root mean square) value of an AC signal, while the output of a rectifier is closer to the peak voltage of the AC waveform, which is higher than the RMS value; this effect is further amplified when a filter capacitor is added, as it charges to the peak voltage and provides a relatively stable DC output close to the peak value.
So, the AC voltage out of the transformer x 1.4142 = DC voltage not under load.
Under load, the DC voltage drops by about 1 volt per amp.
So, a 30 volt DC with no load becomes about 24 volts at 6 amps of load.
Hayward has a single voltage for cell power at about 30 to 32 volts DC no load and about 24 volts under load.
Pentair and Jandy use a multitap transformer to adjust the voltage to the cell to try to make the cell current relatively constant for different salinity and different water temperatures.
This can make measuring the Pentair and Jandy voltages more difficult.
The Jandy circuit board has voltage test points that you can use if you have the technical manual showing the correct test spots.
VRMS x sqrt 2 = VPeak
120 volts RMS = 169.7 Volts Peak to Peak.
240 volts RMS = 339.4 Volts Peak to Peak.
When voltage appears to increase coming out of a bridge rectifier, it's because a voltmeter typically reads the RMS (root mean square) value of an AC signal, while the output of a rectifier is closer to the peak voltage of the AC waveform, which is higher than the RMS value; this effect is further amplified when a filter capacitor is added, as it charges to the peak voltage and provides a relatively stable DC output close to the peak value.
So, the AC voltage out of the transformer x 1.4142 = DC voltage not under load.
Under load, the DC voltage drops by about 1 volt per amp.
So, a 30 volt DC with no load becomes about 24 volts at 6 amps of load.
Hayward has a single voltage for cell power at about 30 to 32 volts DC no load and about 24 volts under load.
Pentair and Jandy use a multitap transformer to adjust the voltage to the cell to try to make the cell current relatively constant for different salinity and different water temperatures.
This can make measuring the Pentair and Jandy voltages more difficult.
The Jandy circuit board has voltage test points that you can use if you have the technical manual showing the correct test spots.
The 24 volt light should work.
You can also use (3) 12 volt, 75 watt lights in series to make a 36 volt, 225 watt, 6.25 amp tester.
You can use (1) 12 volt, 75 watt, 6.25 amp light in series with a 24 volt, 150 watt, 6.25 amp bulb to make a 36 volt, 225 watt, 6.25 amp tester.
For loads in series, the amperage does not add up, but the wattage and voltage does add up.
The voltage divides based on the load.
For example, a total 36 volt, 225 watt, 6.25 amp load will give (36 x 75/225) 12 volts to the 12 volt light and (36 x 150/225) 24 volts to the 24 volt light.
Last edited:
I thought I would give the system some time to see if the problems cleared up on their own, but that didn't happen. The cell is still not producing chlorine. Now it is throwing error codes 125 and 194. It looks like the cell, or perhaps the whole chlorinator system is toast.
Based on consulting with a few professionals and a bunch of online research (including TFP) I am strongly considering switching to the Pentair Intellichlor 40.
Based on consulting with a few professionals and a bunch of online research (including TFP) I am strongly considering switching to the Pentair Intellichlor 40.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you are going to keep your Aqualink then stay with the Aquapure.
The IntelliChlor cannot be controlled by the Aqualink and will only do 20% adjustment increments.
The IntelliChlor cannot be controlled by the Aqualink and will only do 20% adjustment increments.
I like the idea of being able to control the SWG thru my Aqualink, but it seems like the Jandy AquaPure SWG's are junk. It's a regular 2-year replacement cycle at $1000 each. My Hayward system at the last house lasted twice that long, and I hear that Pentair is even better.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, but Pentair IntelliChlor without Pentair automation can only be adjusted in 20% increments.
If you are set on dumping your Aquapure look at the Circupool RJ+....
Circupool SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
You can control a Hayward AquaRite SWG through the Aqualink if you use a converter board. Read Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading
BTW, I dumped all my Jandy equipment and Aqualink and installed a Pentair IntelliCenter. I am happy I did.
Replacing an Aqualink with an IntelliCenter
This thread is for me to work out what I do in upgrading my 20 year old pool equipment. Jandy RS8 automation, 1.5HP SS Pentair pump, Pentair Mastertemp 400 NG heater, IC40 SWG, typical pool/spa combo with spa spillover, Pentair JVA actuators on suctions & return Jandy valves, 1HP pump for spa...
www.troublefreepool.com
What about Jandy Tru Clear? I just came across that one, and it seems to be more reliable than the AquaPure.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
TruClear is junk. Worse than the Aquapure.
I don't know where you're reading your stuff.
The internet of course.
OK, good to know. What is the approximate cost of replacing my panel with an IntelliCenter? Would it work with Jandy VF pumps and Jandy heater?
Another option is to go with a CircuPool SWCG. Call them and ask about the new series that is coming out with remote control. It may mean having to work off of 2 apps but far cheaper then buying a IntelliCenter with a IC SWCG. Something to consider.The internet of course.
OK, good to know. What is the approximate cost of replacing my panel with an IntelliCenter? Would it work with Jandy VF pumps and Jandy heater?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What is the approximate cost of replacing my panel with an IntelliCenter?
Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
No. I had got a Pentair IntellifloPump I was using with my Aqualink.
Yes.
Sam721
Active member
If "LO" is shown on the display, you can still get the cell to turn on by setting it to "Boost" the pool. This overrides the low temperature stopping production.
If "LO" is NOT shown, it should turn on the cell. You can verify with the "Cell on" light which will always light up when the cell is being powered. Any problems with the cell do not result in error messages immediately and some reset themselves pretty quickly so they are easy to miss. Measure the voltage and amps on the DC connection to the cell, that will tell you if it's working good or not. The amps need to be 4.5 - 6.8A to work nominally. As the control board will try to maintain this current it will vary the voltage between 22-28VDC nominally. My system has been pushing close to 34VDC to maintain the current and I'm wondering if that's shortening the life of my cells (average 1.5 seasons which is ridiculous).
See my post for pics and the cell repair I've been doing.
If "LO" is NOT shown, it should turn on the cell. You can verify with the "Cell on" light which will always light up when the cell is being powered. Any problems with the cell do not result in error messages immediately and some reset themselves pretty quickly so they are easy to miss. Measure the voltage and amps on the DC connection to the cell, that will tell you if it's working good or not. The amps need to be 4.5 - 6.8A to work nominally. As the control board will try to maintain this current it will vary the voltage between 22-28VDC nominally. My system has been pushing close to 34VDC to maintain the current and I'm wondering if that's shortening the life of my cells (average 1.5 seasons which is ridiculous).
See my post for pics and the cell repair I've been doing.
Mine never displayed LO. Water temp does not seem to be the issue. Boost did not help. Based on the current error codes I think my cell is dead.
I would do the load test with the light to determine if the problem is with the cell or the power supply.
Sam721
Active member
If the "cell on" light is on, you should see voltage above 19V at the DC leads to the cell, if not, your PCB is dead. If you do see voltage but 0 amps, the cell is broken. You may be able to repair with some ingenuity, see my link in previous post.