Jandy Aqualink 8156 display & wired indoor remote unresponsive at 32°F and below.

[zac6298TFP]

All, I'm looking for some guidance on how to fix an interesting issue with my Aqualink controller.
This was put in service in 1998, so I know it's likely on its end of service life.

The controller works great most of the year, however, last winter when the temperatures dipped to freezing, I can see the controller reboot or at least the display seems to pulse backlit on (no text), and then the model name is shown, and it kind of does a cycling back & forth.
Luckily, the pump program still works in the background, and the freeze protect is still operational.
All temperature sensors work.

As the day warms to 34F, the indoor wired display becomes functional, but the key presses are a little laggy, but it works as it should.
Get it up to 38F or so, and there are no functional issues... Very strange.

I'm concerned this thing may fail, losing the freeze protect, and we know what that may do.

I'm going to start with a fresh backup battery, but maybe its something associated with the power supply voltage dipping at low temperatures?
Or maybe, the control board just doesn't like low temps.. Not sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Equipment:
Jandy Aqualink RS Touch R0551800
Aqualink model 8156

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

You have a 20+ year old outdoor panel that is sick. But you know that.

I would install a new system and move on. Either another Aqualink or a Pentair IntelliCenter. Now is the time to decide if you want to stay in the Jandy ecosystem.

I don't think it is worth it to throw money into an old system.

Jandy Troubleshooting Manual for AquaLink® RSAll Button and OneTouch™ Control Systems covers many common problems if you want to try and extend its life.

 

[zac6298TFP]

I replaced the 9v today, so we’ll see if any improvement with cold weather.

 

[zac6298TFP]

I replaced the 9v today, so we’ll see if any improvement with cold weather.

An update on this issue. My spa touch pad seems to be failing. I covered it with a metal bucket and put a 10w bulb inside and it provides enough warmth to keep the remote from freaking out in cold weather.

 

[zac6298TFP]

Zodiac 7227 spa side remote

 

[JamesW]

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[1poolman1]

I replaced the 9v today, so we’ll see if any improvement with cold weather.

That battery only keeps the current memory alive in the event of a power failure. It does nothing else. It saves the date and time. Programming is in another area of the chip and only changes if the chip goes bad or done by you. If you are concerned about freeze, put the system in "service"
mode and turn the pump on. It will run continuously until turned off or service mode is canceled.

An iQ-30-RS upgrade kit will get you working again as long as the rest of the equipment is good. Comes with a new PCB and the iQ-30 antenna for wifi control. Relatively easy conversion, just swap out the boards, install the antenna. You can even leave the wiring in the brown, green, and red RS-485 plugs and just remove them from the old board and plug into the new. Be sure to note which valve actuator plug goes into valve 1 (suction) and valve 2 (return) sockets, reprogram and you're done.

Take pictures with your phone so you know how things were if the wires get disconnected and make notes if needed. Even without experience, following the directions will only take an afternoon. Your spa-side remote may be gone (especially at that age), but you can use your phone there if you want with the conversion. Those spa-sides are no longer made.

 

[zac6298TFP]

Thanks! Yes, everything works well except the spa side remote. The warming bulb is a temp fix. I am considering a iq30 upgrade kit, but also reading up on aqualinkd.

 

[Mutley]

AqualinkD is a great option with far more features than iAqualink, but it sounds like you have more of a hardware issue, and it won’t help that. (And more than lightly neither will the iAqualink upgrade board).

Your keypad (indoor controller) get’s power and data over 4 wires from the outside control panel. These are the RS485 wires. I would first look at replacing / checking those wires, as it sounds like in low temperature situations they are not passing power to the indoor controller. (Hence the LCD going blank and rebooting).
It could also be a bad PSU on the outdoor control panel, but you might expect to see the outdoor control panel rebooting or not working if this was the case. The main board on the outside control panel, converts the AC power of the PSU to DC power for the indoor controller panel, if a component on that board is failing, then a full iAqualink replacement board would fix the problem. BUT if that was the case, you could also get a replacement main board of eBay for a few hundred dollars and then use AqualinkD, and not the ~$k for iAqualink

 

[zac6298TFP]

Thanks for the reply. I’m almost 100 % sure it’s my spa link 8 button control panel which is also on that rs485 bus. I fixed the issue by heating spalink with a 22w bulb inside a bucket. Issue went away down to 22 degrees. My long term plan is to disconnect the spalink controller and replace with either an aqualinkd or iaqualink. Just hard to spend money when it’s now working. I have grander plans of a salt chlorinator and a variable speed pump…. Thanks again for comment.