In SLAM process

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
32,340
Sebring, Florida
The pressure gauge didn’t tell me I needed to but from the return and circulation in the pool, I need it to do it.
Get a new gauge. It is an important tool in pool water management. They are about 15 bucks from TFTestkits and they don't freeze and are quite accurate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracey R

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
I backwashed and rinsed again yesterday. More tan ish water released and the pool water is coming more and more clear. I'm able to see 1/2 way down now. My boys and I were in the pool over the weekend.

I figured taking things 2 fold. 1 enjoying the pool and 2 stirring up the fine sediment (or whatever it is floating around and causing the cloudiness).

Do I have to keep slamming at 18 or can I lessen the SLAM #?
 

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
Woop woop! I haven’t seen the bottom of my pool in obviously waaaayyyyy too long. There’s pictures of bubbles down there. :oops::eek::)I barely see them now. Yay!!

I’ll continue SLAM til they’re visible but then I bring my FC down to normal levels and start maintaining the TA & PH?

I figure once I get those “done” I’ll order the SWCG & install that. Then onto figuring out that process.

Ik I’m not done but a HUGE THANK YOU to y’all!!

Idk how long normal SLAM usually goes for but mine started 7/6/19. It’s been a long month
 

Attachments

Lilypad

Bronze Supporter
Nov 12, 2016
175
Plano, Texas
Now THOSE are the kind of bubbles we want to see in your pool! LOL

You're making really good progress now. Levels are adjusted only when you've successfully completed the SLAM. Don't forget the SLAM rules:

You are done when:
  • CC is 0.5 or lower;
  • You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
  • And the water is clear. (no cloudiness)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracey R

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
1,004
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
You need cristal clear water or Gin type of water. Then you can do de oclt. Since you had a hard time getting it to clear i would still wait like 2 more days after Gin clear to go for the oclt. Just a little margin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracey R

frogabog

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 16, 2010
2,454
Portland, Oregon
I second that you're not quite near clear yet. Crystal clear is what you're looking for, not mostly clear or so much clearer than before... but crystal clear. Like, toss a nickel in the deep end and tell us if it's heads or tails.

You don't want to stop SLAM too soon, you'll just have to start all over. Better to wait now than begin again.
 

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
Good morning! So my fc is staying overnight. Yippee! I vacuumed this morning & got the remaining “sandy” stuff off the bottom. My water is gin clear. 1st picture is yesterday morning & #2 is this morning.

Now I can stop SLAM?
Now I begin testing for PH, TA etc?
My next move is to purchase my SWCG & install within the next couple weeks.

Now I need to review pool school again?
 

Attachments

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
It'll be early afternoon and the FC will be below 10. Last I tested my TA it was around 250 I believe. I haven't tested my PH in a while due to SLAM so I'll post those results later today.

I'm sooo stoked!!
 

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
FC 8 PH8.2 TA 320 CYA less than 10.
Pool math shows I should add 7lbs dry stabilizer -goal of 50 (bc I have that) so I plan on adding 3.5lbs to bring it up.

Should I tackle the PH before the CYA?
 

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
I added 3lbs dry acid (all I had) for the PH. I was also wrong about having stabilizer so I'll get those this evening. If I recall I can check the PH in about 30 min & it'll show where the adjusted # is?

Also, I noticed I have more of the "sandy" looking spots on the floor of my pool. They are either coming from my filter or from my well.

How do I figure those out? Will this affect my install of the SWCG?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
21,192
Laughlin, NV
I added 3lbs dry acid (all I had) for the PH.
It is best to not use dry acid if you are installing a SWCG. Dry acid is sodium bisulfate. Sulfates attack metals. The SWCG plates are metal and the coating is a rare earth material. So limiting/eliminating sulfates is a good idea with a SWCG.

Just use muriatic acid in the future for pH adjustments.

Not sure about the 'sand'. Be sure it is sand and not dead algae.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tracey R

Tracey R

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2019
132
Boerne TX
I appreciate that knowledge. I plan on getting muriatic acid this evening and the liquid stabilizer. I can find both at walmart? I've never used the liquid form